This is a problem that has been bugging me intermittently for a couple of years. Condensation from evaporator doesn't flow properly down the A/C drain so water can drip or pour into the cabin. I have been under the car I cleared the drain from below & also removed the panel under glove compartment & left side panel to clear the drain from above.
I think that the rubber drain itself is perished & has a small split that allows water out when it's very humid & there is lots of condensation from the evaporator. I haven't been able to find the correct part number or even a good diagram or photo showing the drain itself. There is a drip tray under the evaporator that has a spigot either side that the drain plugs into. Unfortunately it looks to me as though it's a dash out job to replace the drain & I suspect that these are NLA new.
I think that the alternative solution might be to replace the drain with a piece of plastic tube. It might even be possible to run the tube within the drain without removing it. I welcome any other suggestions
I have a problem with my heater as it rarely seems to blow hot air into the cabin. If I press the PROG button I do get hot air.
Here are the readings on my Nanocom Do these values look OK? The aspirator temperature seems high.
The rear wiper on my P38 is on the blink. It's very sluggish when it wipes. That's if it wipes as often it won't move or it does move then dies stuck halfway across the screen. I have had it operating both with the wiper stalk & with the Nanocom so think that all is good regarding BECM & controls. I think that it points to an issue with the wiper motor. I found a couple of posts on other forums where guys have cleaned up the motor & applied plenty of WD40 to get them going again. At the moment I just try & resist using the rear wiper as I know it will stop mid stroke & hang down until sometime later when it will decide to park hidden away.
What is involved in taking out the wiper motor as I cannot find a guide online?
My rear wiper has been a bit reluctant to park & then sluggish while working. It has now stopped in the middle of the rear window & does not park or wipe. The symptoms point to the wiper motor (still available new from JLR for £255 or from Island 4x4 for £180 or as little as £12.99 used from a breaker) but is there anything else I need to consider. I have read that it's controlled direct from the BECM without a relay.
I was just pricing up oil & air filters prior to doing a service & happened upon this one at Rimmers. It's claimed to be not only better breathing but also is cleanable by air or water. At £27.90 it's even more expensive than a genuine JLR filter (£23.49) & much more expensive than an OEM (£6.95) or a cheap aftermarket (£3.15) so would take quite a few years before you saved money with it. Has anyone experience or an opinion?
I have had the odd leak locked by a the A/C drain in the past but in the current hot weather here in the UK I have now got icy water pouring into the passenger footwell. A drive of a few hours in 28C heat totally soaked a large bath towel & left a lot of water on to be soaked up by the carpet. I cleared the A/C drains from underneath but it's not helped at all so suspect that there is something at the other end that is blocked or dislodged. Where do I start dismantling to get at wherever it is that this condensate from the A/C is forming?
I'm getting the headlining repaired & need to confirm the colour. On the label under the bonnet I find paint code 696 which is Alveston Red but trim code is C which I cannot find anywhere. The list below of trim codes is quoted in many posts when I Google but does not contain C. I had always assumed it was Lightstone but I could be wrong
Trim Code Colour
D = Dark Granite Cloth
E = Tan Cloth
F = Dark Granite Leather
G = Tan Leather
P = Lightstone Leather
U = Ash Grey Leather
V = Ash Grey Cloth
J = Walnut Leather
X = Lightstone Blue
I had the A/C recharged & it's working perfectly now. We have hot weather in Brittany at present but it's nice & icy in the car. The problem is that icy water is dripping down in the passenger footwell (RHD). I have been under the car to clear the A/C drains & managed to poke a screwdriver into both but I wasn't rewarded with an of armful of muck & dirty water. There is water dripping from both drains although there is more from the right hand (driver's side) drain.
Am I missing something? Do I need a longer screwdriver or do I need to start taking the dashboard out to make sure the A/C drains are connected properly at the top end?
I could have put this in the 'What Have You Done To Your Range Rover Today" thread but thought that this deserves a dedicated post.
I changed the oil on my P38 yesterday & was confused regarding the torque setting for the sump plug. It's listed in RAVE as 45 Nm for up to 99MY & 32 Nm for 99MY onwards. The sump is the same & so is the sump plug so why the difference? I think that it must be due to the different crush washer. Originally the crush washer was copper then was replaced with an aluminium washer. My engine has just been rebuilt by V8 Developments & had a copper washer on the sump plug. I replaced it with a new copper washer & tightened up to 45 Nm so I hope that I have done the right thing.
As my head gasket blew I had my engine completely reconditioned by V8 Developments. Unfortunately despite delivering the car to them in August last year they only just completed the work so the car was sitting in their yard for eight months. The air conditioning isn't working & I expect (hope) that as per usual it will just require its annual recharge. I usually use the Groupon ATS offer (currently £41.99) but didn't have time to get that done in between collecting the car from V8 Developments & travelling to our cottage in France.
All the above is a prelude to explain why we have been opening both the passenger & driver windows to help cool the car in the pleasantly sunny weather that we have been enjoying recently. My P38 is a RHD & yesterday the passenger window stopped working. Happily the window is closed & won't open rather than being open & impossible to close. The driver's window still operates OK. According to the handbook both passenger & driver windows share the same 30A fuse so that's not the issue.
Any suggestions as where I should start looking to fix the passenger window?
My 2001 Vogue just failed its Contrôle Technique (CT = French MOT) on emissions amongst other things. It's only done about 1K miles after fitting a fully reconditioned engine by V8 Developments. The failure was
Lambda 1.128 when the acceptable level is 0.97 - 1.03
It also failed on holes in the exhaust system. The tester told me that there were lots of holes over the whole system after the cats. I haven't been underneath to look but it definitely does sound a bit throatier than it should.
I'm not sure of the relevance but the only error picked up by my Nanocom is P1035 OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER UPSTREAM
Any ideas?
Black Box Solutions are selling all Nanocom Evolution kits for 15% off with code XMAS22. UK purchasers can also take advantage of a VAT free purchase that reduces the price even further (provided it doesn't get noticed by customs). https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com
I see parts listed by VIN eg this service kit is for V8 EFi Petrol models to VIN TA346794 and WA376580 to 385948 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RA1479
While this is for VIN VA346795 to 376579 & WA385949 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RA1480
My VIN is SALLPAMJ31A458723 which doesn't seem to map on to the VINs listed. How do I decode it? Is it just the six numerals at the end that matter?
Am I dreaming or thinking of another car? I'm sure the indicators on my Vogue used to flash when I locked or unlocked with the fob but they don't now. Everything else is working well. It has a new latch in the driver's door. Am I imagining flashing indicators?
My long term project is to have the engine in my 2001 Vogue reconditioned/remanufactured. Given all the labour involved & the ease of access to components what other ancillaries should I consider replacing with new or reconditioned items? A few obvious candidates include starter motor, alternator, coils, spark plug leads etc What about oil pump, oil cooler? Anything to do with gearbox or differentials?
I have owned my P38A for eleven years & it's now done 172,500 miles. It had 80K miles when I bought it. It's basically sound if a bit scruffy but has been regularly serviced & is rust free. It cost me £5K & it looks like clean examples are worth at least that now so it's worth it to me to invest some money to keep it running for another twenty years.
I opened up the bonet today to check oil, coolant, etc & notice that the windscreen washer tubing on the drivers side (RHD) was dangling from the bonnet. Examination revealed that a right angle connection in the tubing should clip onto a plastic stud that secures the insulating blanket under the bonnet. I foolishly tried to lever out the plastic stud with a screwdriver causing top out & disappear somewhere in the engine compartment. I secured the tubing to the insulation with gaffer tape but the insulating blanket is hanging down when the bonnet is open because of the missing stud. This is all a longwinded way of saying does anyone know where I can get a replacement. I looked on Rimmer's website www.lrparts.net but can't find it.
https://ibb.co/LdTVrJm
I wasn't sure which forum to post this but RAVE puts it under Electrical so who am I to argue?
I have a 2001 4.6L Vogue. Last Saturday my serpentine belt snapped. There was initially some noise under the bonnet like a branch being dragged along. Then a sort of 'Bang!' & the steering suddenly went really heavy. I guessed immediately that it was the serpentine belt so drove on for a short distance until I found somewhere safe to stop by which time the temperature warning light was on & steam escaping from the header tank cap. The belt was all shredded & it had taken chunks out of half of the fan blades plus another chunk out of the lower fan shroud so the upper fan shroud has nowhere to clip to on the right.
I've had the car brought back to the house & I should have a new belt delivered tomorrow but I just wanted to check a few things. RAVE describes removing the fan but I cannot see any reason for this. The fan isn't in the way at all & removing the fan isn't going to make putting the belt on any easier as far as I can see. I've identified the tensioner & putting a 15mm spanner on it can move it across plenty so it all looks straightforward to put the belt back on. Oddly RAVE doesn't show how the belt runs round the various pulleys. @Gilbertd sent me this image that matches my engine.
I've also found this photo which also shows quite well how it is fitted (the shroud over the two pulleys at top right has been removed)
Are there any hints or tips anyone has? According to an Atlantic British service schedule that I downloaded the serpentine belt should be replaced every 60,000 miles. My P38 has done 166,660 which is about 86,000 more than it had done when I bought it 10 years ago & even though I've had it regularly serviced I don't ever recall mention of a new serpentine belt so I'm not sure when if ever it's been changed.
Will the damaged fan be a problem? I can repair the fan shroud with gaffer tape. It should be all right for cooling as it's just had a new radiator & the fan blades are mostly there but looking moth eaten. Will it be a problem if it's unbalanced? I cannot get a new fan for several days & it looks like a bit of a bugger to get it off unless you buy a special expensive pair of tools so if I don't need to replace the fan as a matter of urgency I would be pleased.
I have owned my 2001 P38 4.6L Vogue for ten years. I have suffered many of the usual P38 problems with EAS, remote receiver, crankshaft position sensor etc but nothing major until it started overheating last year. It's either the head gasket or the cylinder liners but was fixed with some liberal application of Steel Seal. This fixed the overheating problem with combustion gases entering the cooling system but put a load of sludge into the radiator & heater matrix which led to more overheating problems & a non-functioning heater.
I was very happy to meet @Gilbertd in person as he lives only 10 miles from where I work. He introduced me to this forum & has been doing some work on my car. The Nanocom fixed some minor irritating problems with the headlight warning & interior light not working. The new radiator has fixed the overheating but the leaking sludged up heater matrix proved more challenging so has been removed & bypassed for the moment so I don't have a heater at present but in summer this isn't a problem. Replacing the heater matrix requires complete removal of the dashboard & is a 2-3 day job that will have to wait until next month. The AC has been recharged so I can be icey cool when it's hot outside.
I acquired the car as part of a divorce settlement ten years ago. My initial plan had been to sell it it but after I drove it for a week or two I fell in love with it. It's still the nicest car I have ever driven. I love the driving position, the visibility, the manoeuvrability, the performance etc The fuel consumption of 18mpg is the price I have to pay for driving around in a £50,000 car. It's not my daily driver but I do use it regularly. We have had countless journeys to & from our cottage in Brittany heavily loaded in both directions. We are now resident in France & spend over half our time there so the P38 has been re-registered on French plates. There was a one off cost of registration of €500 but there is now no equivalent of road tax in France so I save over £300 each year. The equivalent of the MOT (Côntrole Technique) is every two years. I considered an LPG conversion but first I am going to experiment with E85 (85% ethanol 15% petrol) which is available in France at half the price of petrol.