There are several Autogas LPG bulk tanks for sale on eBay but £7.5K for this 1,410 litre one is a bit too pricey.
On page six of this PDF brochure from Flo-gas there is a diagram of an LPG bulk tank which shows a gas fill valve & a separate liquid offtake valve next to it so these might be easy to adapt.
https://assets.flogas.co.uk/uploads/Your-Technical-Guide-Bulk-Consumer.pdf
I was prompted to ask the question as in a previous house with no mains gas I had LPG central heating installed. They buried the tank so it wasn't an eye sore & the bit above ground was minimal. I assume that if the tank were buried it could still have a bottom take-off but presumably would need a pump to move the liquid LPG into the car's fuel tank. It would only be the (hopefully sensible) safety regulations that dictate where the tank could be buried.
As you know at our UK house we have no garden at all so there is nowhere to put an LPG tank & in our French cottage there is room we have no need when LPG is widely available although E85 (85% bioethanol) is much cheaper & just as widely available. If we were to move & the new property had an existing LPG tank I wonder if we would be able to utilise it?
BTW I assume that using 47KG bottles or an LPG bulk tank we should really be paying 28.88p per kilogram fuel duty.
Is it possible to have a bulk LPG tank installed (like for LPG central heating) & fill up from that? What would be the cost per litre if LPG is bought in bulk?
A photo of His & His P38s when Richard & Dina called in to visit us in Brittany while on their honeymoon journey through France
Congratulations to you both!
Gilbertd wrote:
Wait for Nigelbb to reply. He got some and we fitted them into his. The sub amp was bolted to the back of the speaker and the new ones didn't have anywhere to bolt it to so I drilled a couple of holes in the side of the housing and used long M6 bolts with some nuts to act as spacers and bolted it there. So I know how to do it but not what speakers you need.....
I'm afraid I can't remember where I got the recommendation for these particular speakers from but they work well. You will need two. They were only £25.12 each when I bought them last April not the current £35.99.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000FMPENQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gilbertd wrote:
I'd go for number 3, the starter is failing. It needs more current to turn the engine over, hence the dimming lights, so the increased current demand coupled with a battery that isn't at its best, is most likely to cause the problem. A few months ago I went to rescue one owner from a car park where his starter had failed completely. Fitted a new starter and he reckoned it spun the engine over far faster than the old one had done suggesting the old one had been getting slower over a long period.
That was me😀. I had always found it a bit reluctant to start when I filled up with E85 in France but it always started after cranking for a few seconds. I have a relatively new Hankook MF31-1000 so the battery is good. I had the engine completely rebuilt by V8 Developments & when I got it back it then seemed a bit reluctant to start when I filled up with E10 in the UK. I thought that it might free up a bit after I had run it in but eventually it just died. The new starter definitely spins the engine over much quicker. On reflection the starter had been on the way out for some months before it finally failed. As far as I am aware it was the original starter so hopefully the new Bosch one will last another twenty years or so.
That silly little plastic clip on the petrol filler flap broke. TBH I hadn't noticed that there was a silly little plastic clip there in the first place which shows how observant I am considering how many times I must have filled her up in the last 13 years & 100K miles. 95% of the clip was still present but the whole was loose & would not engage with the little retractable pin that secures it.
If only all P38 parts were so widely available. Googling on part number BPX700010 finds it available from all the usual part suppliers plus many others that I had never heard of before. On Amazon alone there must have been thirty different suppliers with prices varying from under £5 to over £30! Mostly priced at around a fiver it's a very pricey little bit of plastic but as the original lasted at least 13 years & probably the 23 years since it left the factory I hopefully won't need another any time soon.
It took longer to remove the gaffer tape that had been temporarily securing the flap than it did to fit the clip.
This is a problem that has been bugging me intermittently for a couple of years. Condensation from evaporator doesn't flow properly down the A/C drain so water can drip or pour into the cabin. I have been under the car I cleared the drain from below & also removed the panel under glove compartment & left side panel to clear the drain from above.
I think that the rubber drain itself is perished & has a small split that allows water out when it's very humid & there is lots of condensation from the evaporator. I haven't been able to find the correct part number or even a good diagram or photo showing the drain itself. There is a drip tray under the evaporator that has a spigot either side that the drain plugs into. Unfortunately it looks to me as though it's a dash out job to replace the drain & I suspect that these are NLA new.
I think that the alternative solution might be to replace the drain with a piece of plastic tube. It might even be possible to run the tube within the drain without removing it. I welcome any other suggestions
Gilbertd wrote:
Quite how anyone can drive a P38 without working AC I have no idea. There's so much glass they are like a greenhouse in the sun and, having done a 160 mile round trip on Monday when the HEVAC told me it was 29 degrees outside, was not pleasant.
I 100% agree re A/C as when I have had problems with the left hand A/C drain causing condensation from the evaporator to flood into the passenger compartment I had to switch off the A/C & rely on opening the sunroof & windows to keep the temperature down. I will start another thread to discuss this problem as it's still giving me trouble. I might have to pop over while you have the dash out to take a look at how the drains run because I'm still having difficulties visualising the 3D layout of the evaporator & the drains.
Gilbertd wrote:
If the DSP amp has been removed, then the wiring should have been linked where the DSP amp originally lived (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814) unless someone has run new cabling in from the head unit to the speakers. What you have now will dictate what you need to do and what is the least work. Most, if not all, modern head units have built in DSP anyway so an external DSP amp (if you can even find one) isn't worth it.
Your original speakers are now 24 years old and speaker technology has improved a lot since then, they are also likely on their last legs anyway. I've replaced all of mine with JBL units (JBL Stage 600CE), far better and a straight swap. If you want to add a sub, then up to you, I've got a small underseat one sitting just behind the BeCM under the drivers seat and that works well too.
Are these the speakers?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/stage-600CE-170mm-Component-Speakers/dp/B06XHL5R74/
I guess that I need two pairs so I can do the rear doors as well ,
I've just come back after my first trip towing our new caravan. It was a 300 mile round trip. The P38 is a great tow car. As per recommendations I locked the suspension at motorway height & engaged sport mode. Being able to drop the suspension to access mode really helps when hitching & unhitching. The only downside was fuel consumption of just under 12mpg rather than the usual 16mpg.
We should currently be on a caravan site in Wales for the next two weeks but curtailed our trip & returned home as after our first four night trip away in the caravan my wife has decided that she hates caravanning. It wasn't such a negative experience for me although I appreciate her concerns re communal showers & walking to a toilet block in the rain etc. There is also more physical effort & hassle involved in hitching/unhitching, loading/unloading & moving the van than I expected.
We have been talking about getting a caravan for years so I'm pleased that we have tried it then decided that it's not for us. We deliberately bought a relatively cheap twenty year old van with the full knowledge that if it didn't work out that we could probably recoup all or most of our money by selling on the van.
Lez wrote:
Thanks Dick...just checked, mine has a green dot !..Just Spoke with the previous owner, who tells me it was never changed during his tenure. The service and repair history from new looks pretty comprehensive, It's was registered Jan 2002.
I had always thought that the Gen 3 RF receiver wasn't released until several years after production of the P38 had ceased so was never fitted to any P38 from the factory.
Another year passes & it's time to renew the insurance. I have the P38 plus a Smart FourTwo. Last year the cost was about £350 for each car with LV. The price on the Smart is higher than normal as my wife only passed her test just over a year ago & LV wouldn't even insure her on the P38. The renewal price was £380 for the Smart & £535 for the Ranger Rover so I started to look at comparison sites & ring around. I was happy to stick with LV for the Smart. I got a remarkably wide variety of quotes for the P38 including my wife driving. On one comparison site it was about £400 with Aviva & on another £350 with RAC Online (minimal customer service via web chat). Footman James was £866 Lancaster £755
Finally I entered my details for a quote from NFU Mutual & got a call back the following day. I had a forty minute call with a nice Scottish gentleman called Graham. The upshot is that the P38 is now insured fully comprehensive for £338.34 & the Smart for £272.55. I thoroughly recommend NFU Mutual who are not on any comparison site so you do need to speak to them on the phone to get a quote. It's nice that like LV they are a mutual so aren't going to rip off customers to pay out shareholder dividends.
I have owned my P38 for 13 years & every year or two the A/C needs to be regassed but then works well for a year or two. This year I was going to add some of the A/C leak sealant while having Richard's mobile A/C chum regass it but as he was on holiday I got the regass done at Kwik-Fit so will need to wait until next year to use the sealant now.
For getting a system regassed taking the car to Kwik-Fit or ATS (regass currently only £45 with Groupon offer) is the cheapest option but if there is anything beyond that then you are much better off taking the car to an independent auto A/C engineer. You should be able to use Google to find a local ndependent auto A/C engineer.
What I did yesterday was a job that I have been promising myself to do for about a year. At least that's how long ago I bought the zebra strip to fix the HEVAC display. Doing the job is straightforward following directions on YouTube.
I hadn't appreciated how the zebra strip worked to replace the wonky ribbon cable & the first time I put the HEVAC back the display was completely dead as I hadn't got the zebra strip properly compressed between the LCD screen & the circuit board. I re-did the installation & the second time it worked fine so I now have a fully functioning HEVAC display so that's one more job ticked off on the list.
Not what I have done today but what I did the week before last when I visited @Gilbertd to collect the working DSP amplifier that I had bought from @MartyUK.
Richard did most of the work but while there was access I fitted new speakers in the subwoofer as the old cones had disintegrated. Fitting the new amp was straightforward if a bit fiddly with all the trim, CD charger & subwoofer that need to be removed to get at the amp. Sound was restored to the car although I found there was an irritating intermittent crackle from the passenger door speaker. I was contemplating swapping speakers from the driver's door to see if it was the speaker or the wiring causing the crackly noise. Today I was trying to tune the radio & discovered that it's only when I am using my FM-Bluetooth dongle tuned to 108MHz that I get the noise. Regular radio stations are clear as a bell. It's annoying as otherwise the dongle lets me play content from my iPhone with decent sound quality (apart from the intermittent crackle). Now that I am reassured that it's the FM-Bluetooth dongle at fault I can confidently get one of those GROM Bluetooth modules that plugs in to the back of the radio instead of the CD changer.
The A/C hasn't been working for a few months. I have owned the car for 13 years & every year or two the A/C needs to be re-gassed. I had the A/C recharged at Kwik-Fit but it still wasn't working. Richard checked the system with his A/C gauges & confirmed that it was full of gas but then noticed that the A/C compressor had been unplugged. I hadn't done it so it can only have been the guys at Kwik-Fit but plugging it back in the A/C sprung to life.
I have been plagued for some years by water in the passenger footwell that comes from condensation on the A/C evaporator. I have many times cleared the drains but it always seems to return. Richard had the panel off under the. glove box & confirmed that the top end of the rubber drain was connected to the pipe that projects down from the gutter under the evaporator that catches the condensation. There was a bit of a twist or kink in the drain which he attempted untwist.
I drove home with the A/C on full blast as I set the cabin temperature to 16C. The passenger footwell was bone dry when I arrived home after my 90 mile drive back from Richard's place. Unfortunately when it was particularly warm & humid a few days later I once more found icy water dripping down over & through the OBD socket. I squeezed the air duct joint & icy water poured out. I again cleared the drains with a piece of wire & confirmed that the drains are connected to the gutter. I can only conclude that perhaps there is still something obstructing the drain & when it's particularly hot & humid producing maximum condensation that the water can't drain out fast enough. If I could figure out how to do it I would replace both drains.
I had all sorts of problems with overheating & in desperation I used steel seal which fixed the problem & it lasted for a couple of years & 20K miles before the head gasket started blowing so I then got the engine completely rebuilt by V8 Developments.
Aragorn wrote:
mad-as wrote:
those pressures are a bit worrying as the thermostat is suppose to control the temp, at 1.4 bar that's max pressure for the system, the system should be around .8ish bar or so around 9psi is a good pressure to have. do you have temp readings or just pressure as the temps for that pressure would be around 118+ degrees. there is something wrong with the system, you are running around 20psi which is way over the top for the system
Temperatures are totally normal, it'll sit around 90c when driving on the motorway for instance.
I do generally agree though i think the pressure is too high and i imagine its a cracked block.
A sniff test for exhaust gases in the coolant should confirm (or rule out) a cracked block.