The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
191 posts

Yesterday we drove back 1000km from Port Leucate in SW France to our cottage in Brittany. The P38 didn't miss a beat mostly cruising at 130kmph on the motorway. It was the hottest day of the year so far at 28C in much of France. The non-functioning AC was a minor annoyance but with the sunroof tilted & a rear window open the flow of air through the car kept us cool enough. We enjoyed our holiday immensely & even took a day trip into Spain. We take the ferry from Saint-Malo to Portsmouth on Tuesday. Total mileage for the trip is going to be well over 2000 miles. Not so much compared to the journeys that Richard takes but it's the longest trip that I have done in the car. The engine rebuild by V8 Developments was really worth it as it pulls like a train & hardly uses any oil.

Nearly forgot. The car is absolutely filthy covered in dead insects. I have been using glass cleaner & vigorously rubbing away on the windscreen & headlights.

Yesterday I had to replace the left hand dip headlamp bulb as a bulb failure message popped up when I switched on the headlights the previous evening. It's not as fiddly as the driver's side but it's still annoyingly fiddly. I know that it was common on all cars of this vintage to have a spring clip to hold the bulb in but surely they could have designed something better? Pushing the connector on through the rubber boot which is splitting was irritatingly fiddly too. The job definitely took longer than it should but at least I am now equipped to go out at night again.

Gilbertd wrote:

nigelbb wrote:

Apart from just putting the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner over the aperture below the clock how else can I clean it? I can't find how to remove it.

Centre console side panels off, knee panel off, switch panel off and it is screwed to the inside of the switch panel with two tiny but long pozi 1 screws. Once it is out, the best way of cleaning it is with a soft paintbrush as the fins of the fan get covered in dust as well as the thermistor.

It will have to wait until after our South of France road trip is over as while I have all my tools in the boot I don't think that it would go down too well with my wife as we are on holiday & while it sounds like a five minute job (famous last words😀) it's non-urgent.

Apart from just putting the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner over the aperture below the clock how else can I clean it? I can't find how to remove it.

We have been staying at our cottage in Brittany for a few weeks & the weather has been utterly crap with driving rain almost every day. It's my wife's birthday this week so on a whim I suggested a week in the South of France. We booked a holiday with a firm that have self catering residences all over France & beyond. We have had five holidays with them previously & highly recommended them. They often have special offers. Last year we had a fortnight self catering in the South of France for €469. This time it's €301 for a week self catering on the Med hard by the Spanish border. https://en.residence-nemea.com/summer/france/languedoc-roussillon/aude/port-leucate/holiday-residence-les-carrats-216.html

What has this to do with my p38? Well it's 1000km from Brittany to near Perpignan so a bit of a road trip. We stopped overnight in Bordeaux & the P38 hardly missed a beat cruising down the motorways. The one glitch was when we were about 300km from our destination I got the EAS fault error warning with all the lights illuminated. The car drove fine so when I filled up at the next services I got out the Nanocom & reset the 'Invalid fault code' & it didn't come back. It was fun to drive due South going from very early Spring to full Spring with leaves on the trees. We are enjoying our accommodation that is within earshot of the Mediterranean waves & yesterday evening ate our supper outside on the terrace.

I'm running the car on E85 (85% bioethanol) which is widely available even at the motorway service stations. It's literally half the price of regular fuel so while consumption at 14-15mpg is a little higher as like LPG ethanol is less energy dense than petrol it's still a great saving. I'm amazed that everyone in France doesn't run their car on E85. While the P38 happily runs unmodified for other cars you may need a €300 box that frigs around with the ignition timing but I really cannot see any downside.

The one mild annoyance is that the A/C isn't working as it needs to be recharged & I want to put some STP Super Seal Air-Con Stop Leak in to seal the micro leaks in the system. Before I do that I need to sort out the air con drains as in hot weather I get water pouring into the cabin. This is what condenses on the evaporator & should be discharged underneath. I've cleaned out the two tubes either side of the console that are the usual problem but this must be where the water is collected under the evaporator before it's directed down the drains.

We plan on driving into Spain while here then I think that I will probably try & do the 1000km back to Brittany in one day without an overnight stay. Our accommodation was a bargain €301 but even running on E85 with a 1000km round trip it still costs around €300 each way for fuel.

Richard, you need to update your signature to include the new acquisition. It looks like quite a project that you have taken on but I'm assuming with all the issues that you got it at a good price.

I quite like the Lightstone interior on my Alveston red P38.

Gilbertd wrote:

ABS sensors are ABS sensors, it doesn't matter if they came off a car with Wabco D or an earlier one.

If you want to change the bearings in the hub, yes you do need a big hydraulic press irrespective of what brand you buy. Far easier to just buy the complete hub assembly complete with bearing like this, rear https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-assy-eurospare-ftc3223-p-27885.html and front https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-assy-britpart-ftc3243-p-27181.html or https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-assy-timken-ftc3226-p-27883.html.

I wonder why the front hub assembly is £100 while the rear hub assembly is £400. The rear hub assembly is available at Rimmers for £288 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FTC3223P while a genuine JLR part costs £828.

Gilbertd wrote:

That's the external temperature sensor, not the aspirator. Aspirator is JTF000030 which is available but a little more expensive https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/jtf000030-sensor-in-car-temperature.html?code=60907

I have a feeling I have a spare one, I'll have a look later and see if I can find it.

Wow! £167! I hope that cleaning all the fluff out of mine is all that is required.

Interestingly while you can buy new from JLR there aren't any listed on eBay in the UK. There is one from Latvia for £50 including postage that looks nice & clean & one from Spain that is £85 including shipping where they haven't even bothered to clean all the dust off.

romanrob wrote:

blast of compressed air for the current one, and order a replacement aspirator from ebay :)

Amazingly you can still buy a genuine STC3365 from JLR for £45.43. They either stockpiled too many or they don't fail very often.😀


Martyuk wrote:

Yeah, I would try swapping the aspirator then.

I looked at mine on nanocom today and it was reading about the same as heater core (11-12 Deg) with the engine being off for awhile and just ignition on.

If I put my finger on the sensor it would go up in temp as expected, and drop again when finger removed.

With engine on and the system in auto, I could set the desired temp on HEVAC and then again with finger on aspirator, I could see the blend motors moving a bit, so I don't think there's a delay on aspirator sensor read.

Trying another sensor is probably a good place to start on your RR.

Thanks for the troubleshooting. It does look like the sensor is at fault.

Martyuk wrote:

I don't know if the interior aspirator sensor is part of the 'doesn't update straight away' ones, or if it does update straight away.

I'm meeting Nick at the workshop today to sort some more parts out for him - so I'll borrow his Nanocom (as I forgot to bring mine with me) and have a look on my RR as it's also a 2001 with the later HEVAC controller.

Not getting as hot as it used to could be a lot of things - from sticking blend flaps that don't fully go to hot, or restricted flow through the heater core.

Is your RR just on Petrol or LPG aswell?

No LPG just petrol (although running on E85 85% bioethanol when in France).

Moving & calibrating the various blend motors with my Nanocom seems OK so I don't think that the blend flaps are sticking.

The heater core was replaced less than two years ago so I don't think that it's clogged up. The heater core is about 85C while coolant temp is 90-95C.

Gilbertd wrote:

Amongst the assorted bits I rescued from Marty's workshop yesterday before they get consigned to a skip, was a rear wiper motor. Had no use for one at the time but having stuff is always useful so it got bunged in my trailer. Looks like that will find a home soon too.


Martyuk wrote:

Is the fan behind the aspirator clean and spinning freely? is there any clogged dust in the aspirator that could be causing it to read high for some reason?

Also, is the reading with the vehicle running? or before you start it? I know on the later P38's the external air temp sensor is delayed in reading until there is some road speed and a certain time (I think maybe 30 seconds) has gone past. I have never actually looked at it with the other sensors, but maybe all of them don't update straight away... (which doesn't make a lot of sense - but thinking from a coding point of view, if the temperature read is a sub-routine, then it would be easier to put a check in over the whole routine than maybe just one sensor).

If it's reading 25, and you put the temp to 26, does it start warning the air up (you should be able to see blend motor positions aswell in the nanocom to see when they are moving). Also, if you move the temp up to 'HI' then that will override the 'climate control' part of trying to reach a target temp, so you should get full hot at that point - which at least will blow it where you have the vents already set, rather than at the windscreen as in the 'PROG' mode


It's going to make it more difficult to diagnose if the reading isn't correct until the car is rolling along. The basic issue is that years ago I can remember the heater kicking out a lot more heat than it does now. It does work when I set the temp to 'HI' but still not as hot as I remember. It would be interesting to know whether it's normal for a stationary P38 to have the aspirator temperature read 25C.

It's still a bit 'tired' as it sweeps across the rear screen & the motor is a bit noisy so I suspect that it's on its way out. It stopped mid sweep today & I needed to 'encourage' the wiper to park by lifting it up off the screen. It looks like I will need to take the motor out. I have read of people refurbishing the motor with new brushes but I haven't found where I can buy those. I would prefer if I could get away with replacing brushes for £10 rather than buy a whole new genuine motor (part number AMR3265) for £265.

I have been recommended to use low mode when manoeuvring with the caravan attached so I wanted to check that it was OK. Today for I think the first time in the nearly 13 years that I have owned the car I put the gearbox into Low mode. I fully expected the motor to be stuck or defective but it worked fine & I was able to engage low mode & progress in forward & in reverse.

I have been getting the message that screen wash is low when there is ample screen wash in the reservoir. I thought that I was going to have to replace the sensor. As these are no longer available it would have meant a used part. When I was chatting on the phone with @Gilbertd I mentioned this & he said that it's because mixing different screen washes that over the years crud builds up in the reservoir & stops the sensor working properly. The fix is to ram a hosepipe as far down the neck of the filler & switch it on. I continued flushing until there was just pure water coming out with no trace of screen wash.

Success!!! The low screen wash message no longer appears.

Gilbertd wrote:

If the aspirator thinks the inside of the car is 25 degrees and you have got the HEVAC set to a lower temperature than that, it will try to cool the car down to get it to the target temperature. A simple test is to give the aspirator (located behind the little grille below the clock) a squirt with brake cleaner which will cool it down rapidly (Nanocom should show that too), so the heater should ramp up the temperature from the vents very quickly.

I just did the test with a squirt of brake cleaner that cooled down to 7.5C as it was evaporating. The heater then started to blow hot air.

I'm not sure what my next step is. The aspirator temperature is read as 25C before I even turn on the engine. I don't know how I can get it to read the ambient temperature.

I have a problem with my heater as it rarely seems to blow hot air into the cabin. If I press the PROG button I do get hot air.

Here are the readings on my Nanocom Do these values look OK? The aspirator temperature seems high.

enter image description here

Bolt wrote:

+1 on the possibility of a Disco amp.
And yes, if it is not a DSP (Digital Signal Processing) amp, you only get the front speakers.
So, if you do find the black box up top behind the sound insulation behind the subwoofer box, post the part number.
I had the dead DSP amp issue,(twice!) and did the disco amp thing on my 02 then started collecting any
DSP amps I came across in wreckers yards. Now, I think I have 3 spares! Worth having for the great sound!

Three spares DSP amps! I would have liked Marty's DSP amp but the price here in the UK is just crazy. On eBay at present is one XQK100340 in the UK at £450 with 30 day warranty & another in Latvia at £400. That's far too much money to speculate on an amp that must be at least 23 years old & which could fail just just like all the others in just a few weeks of use.

I've gone the Disco 2 amp route (XQK100210). There are plenty of these used & working on eBay for £30-40. Happily I found a guy selling a brand new XQK100210 for £50. There is a chancer trying to sell brand new XQK100210s as a replacement for a failed XQK100340 but for £250!! As there is an annoying amount of disassembly required to replace the amp I plan on fitting this when I get round to replacing the speakers in the sub-woofer as the originals are turning to powder.

If anybody wants a brand new XQK100210 for £50 here is the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154504582646

They say that "It's good to share" & "A trouble shared is a trouble halved". Well this is issue has been bugging me for 2-3 weeks now but as soon as I post a thread about it I get a fix!

Here is a top tip to access the hinge of the wiper arm so that you can lubricate it. While the wiper arm is operating press the release button to arrest the arm as it is hanging straight down. Now press the button again to drop the lower half of the tailgate. Now jump up on the lowered tailgate & you will be able to stand up & easily reach the hinge of the wiper arm.