Gilbertd wrote:
The tool covers both the nuts and bolts, they are both 9/16th AF and will undo the fixings at the diff and transfer case ends. Either 1/2" or 3/8" drive depending on what size ratchet you have in your socket set.
You do need a complete propshaft. Your pictures show the UJ has broken off but none of them show the section that goes between the UJ and the sliding joint in the propshaft itself.
Thanks. I’ll order the 1/2 for better leverage / use my impact gun.
In the meantime, I’ll test if the VC has seized (jacking up one side and turning the wheel).
Pete12345 wrote:
Definitely buy the 9/16" tool. Makes the job many times easier than fiddling with sockets. 14mm does not fit properly. I tried two different 9/16" sockets, neither of which were narrow enough, so bought the tool.
Gilbertd wrote:
14mm doesn't fit well as they aren't metric, they are 9/16th AF.
You don't use a socket to change a UJ, unless you want one to press the end cap in with it in your bench vice. In that case you just need one that fits.
The bolts on the flange can't turn as a flat on the head bears against the side of the output flange. Same at the other end, you only need access to the visible bolt head or nut, not both ends.
Thanks both - so to confirm, I just need the tool to remove the bolt and do not need to hold the rear nut. There are two sizes 1/2 drive and 3/8. I'll be working on the floor - which size is ideal?
Pardon the ignorance. So the above tool covers the bolts that are in the front (https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e5OZvqSe3J-HAdLhufu0B0gw), but what about the other side - where the UJ joint has snapped? (https://share.icloud.com/photos/02al9n_nHUtKb0Yl-Q5hEezmw).
Examining a complete unit on eBay, it appears that a significant portion is missing. - https://ibb.co/kV2v6tPZ
If this is the case, I will simply purchase a new prop shaft and be done with it. What size bolt/tool would work on this?
14mm seems to fit, but is awkward. I may have to buy this tool.
https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/prop-shaft-bolt-tool/, which is ideal as my 14mm socket won’t stay put.
seems like the UJ decided to go, rest is intact. Would I have to take it apart to attach the UJ and if so, what socket but more importantly, how would I torque the bolts if I can’t access behind it?
https://share.icloud.com/photos/02al9n_nHUtKb0Yl-Q5hEezmw
Gilbertd wrote:
Yes, propshaft is simple enough, 4 bolts at each end. VC is fairly easily doable too. A bit tight with the crossmember in place and the hardest part is breaking the seal from the RTV. Easiest way, rather than trying to prise it off, is to knock it round so you twist it free.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e5OZvqSe3J-HAdLhufu0B0gw
I haven’t checked the VC yet, but the plan is to first get these bolts off. Awkward when there’s no ramp. Just figuring out what size spanner and socket I need.
Gilbertd wrote:
If you get a propshaft it will come complete with the universal joints and flanges at each end. To put that amount of stress on it, I would suspect the viscous coupling in the transfer case is seized. That lives under the round cover on the front of the transfer case, where the front propshaft bolts on. Did the front tyres seems to skip across the road if you pulled away with the steering in full lock? That is a sure sign the VC is seized. In fact, if the VC is seized that is probably what caused the wear on the front tyres.
It's hard to say. When driving up the spiral car park entrance, I would hear chirping sounds as I drove at some speed. I assume this was the tyres rubbing on the floor.
When parked on an incline, facing down, I will hear a loud bang if I release the handbrake to shift into gear. It's tough to say.
I'm going to test if the VC has seized; however, upon reading online, the chirping when I go on a spiral road is a dead giveaway. Watching this video, it seems like an easy fix. I can remove what is left of the propshaft and make my way towards a rent-a-ramp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUvwHoe2fMY
If all is well, is the propshaft a matter of bolts on either side? Straight fit and swap?
I’ll upload more pictures soon but this was probably self inflicted. Front worn tyre + excessive vibration = snapped off.
Is this an easy DIY job where all I need is the propshaft alone? Reading online, they mention UJ etc.
At 202k, I’d imagine it’s become a tad loose. I’ll hear cars go past, as if a window is open.
There’s a subtle whistle noise when on the motorway. It doesn’t take much force to push the glass up to hear the outside.
Gilbertd wrote:
If you can get the old ones off to fit the new ones. The adjuster on the drag link and, to a slightly lesser degree, the track rod, usually requires lots of heat, a pair of Stilsons and a very long bar to put on the end.
Hm, I'm starting small. I've ordered the damper + anti-roll bar bushes & drop link. I thought since I'm there, I might as well get it replaced.
Then, I'll collect the drop link + track rod, hopefully for £50 as the sellers are local.
So the £74 unit is not BritPart, but British Spare Parts directly. I've never heard of them before, and I can't find anything online about them.
Gilbertd wrote:
After Nigel showed me his unit last week, I immediately ordered one to go in my step-daughter's Toyota Aygo. I'd promised her something like that when she passed her driving test, which she did on Wednesday, so I installed it. It was £59 with the money off voucher when I got it earlier this week. As well as being able to connect by Bluetooth and FM transmitter, it also has a line out to go into an Aux in socket of your existing stereo has one (which the Aygo does) so I used that. Unfortunately there was a continuous crackle on the audio sounding like the old mobile phone interference you sometimes used to get if a phone was too close to an audio device. I tried a better quality cable than the one supplied but that made no difference so resorted to using the inbuilt FM transmitter. Running Waze on her iPhone and it works perfectly as well as streaming music. Dashcam works well too and it even came with a 56Gb microSD card. Haven't yet tried it for hands free calls or installed the (included) reversing camera but everything else simply does what it says it does.
Hands-free may be a hit or miss in quality. There's on option in CarPlay so you can speak to the unit, instead of touching it i.e "swipe left, swipe right". Enable that.
nigelbb wrote:
As may be gathered I'm pretty chuffed with my purchase. Even just having the dash cam & reversing camera for £55 looks like a good deal never mind the lovely satnav tablet.
Tech has come a long way. You may experience the occasional disconnect, which isn't a significant issue, as the phone automatically reconnects.
This is my unit - paid £44 on AliExpress. Works a lovely treat.
There’s this for £74 - (probably BritPart - will message the seller to confirm) - https://ebay.us/m/BBpJO8 but confirmed BritPart - £100 - https://ebay.us/m/J1Hrth.
Are there any other brands to go for.
Then, I’ll be paring the two with the Terrafirmer TF834 - https://ebay.us/m/nEIu2e - why, because my old P38 drove just so much smoother and it had this damper, so I’m trying to replicate that old setup.
Context - I did my alignment on the car. It didn’t last long. I’ve finished my tire off after 5000 miles. Outer edge is worn and I just came back from a 250 mile drive today - final nail in the coffin. The interior vibrations are too much at 30mph.
Gilbertd wrote:
The switch is under the RH latch, so if that one is releasing, it will show as open even if the LH latch is still closed and the bonnet won't open. Sounds like your LH latch isn't releasing.
iirc, this is an annoying fix? I drive this car a lot. 4.5k miles in 4 months. My coolant needs topping ever so slightly. How can I open the bonnet?
Hello,
So, my bonnet was intermittent but now, does not open when pulling the lever.
This is the kicker - the car will acknowledge the bonnet is open after pulling the lever, (will say BONNET OPEN when locking), and when I push the bonnet down, I hear a click.
What could this be?
v8vroom wrote:
So, after delaying the job, I thought I’d try another method.
I zip tied the lock so it was out of the way, and to avoid hurting my fingers, I just used a long nose plier to get the short end behind the little plastic part.
The only issue I have is I’m finding that the pin hole is not aligning at all. I can, however, manually align this myself if I adjust the plastic hook. I wonder if this is normal or that I’ve done something wrong.
Ha,
Fixed this issue not long after replying. I sold the P38 and bought another. It seems the problem persists with the passenger door. No idea how I did it before, but I'll check my own notes soon!
Ha,
Someone smashed my rear window, and the high-level brake light stopped working. I'm going to inspect the bulbs soon, so as of now, I've no idea what they look like. If they are gone, is the T5 the replacement?
KCR wrote:
Joined long time ago ... very happy to be here.
My "retro" Classic ...
How interesting. I will purchase the '3 Spoke' wheel to colour-match my Java Black P38. I'm contemplating what tyres to buy; either 255/70/16 vs 245/75/16. I want thick side walls.
So, after delaying the job, I thought I’d try another method.
I zip tied the lock so it was out of the way, and to avoid hurting my fingers, I just used a long nose plier to get the short end behind the little plastic part.
The only issue I have is I’m finding that the pin hole is not aligning at all. I can, however, manually align this myself if I adjust the plastic hook. I wonder if this is normal or that I’ve done something wrong.