Missing a cap. AC gradually died off over the months. I wonder if this is all due to a missing cap, or maybe my Schrader valve needs replacing. It's the valve on the right (high pressure, I'm assuming)
If simple, as there is no refrigerant, how easy would it be to replace the Schrader valves? What part would I need?
My left washer jet has knackered itself.
I am seeing:
Logic says DNJ100750, but why two designs? I ordered AMR5257, but have put in a cancellation request upon realising there are two model numbers.
The heat arrived with no warning, and my spontaneous trip to France didn’t help!
As for my AC. I don’t really want to take the car to a generic local garage as I’m not convinced they’d know where to look on a P38. Perhaps the system is no different to any other car and I’m just overthinking it.
I paid around £100 for a regas last year and it worked perfectly for a few months, until it suddenly didn’t. At one point, friends travelling behind me mentioned they saw what looked like a large pool of fluid leaking from the vehicle, which at the time I assumed was the washer bottle/tank leaking.
I’ve since refilled the washer fluid and observed absolutely no leaks, so I’m now wondering whether what they actually saw could have been refrigerant oil or simply heavy A/C condensation.
Can the main chains (Kwik Fit, ATS, Halfords etc.) generally diagnose these systems properly, or is this the sort of thing better suited to a Land Rover/4x4 specialist for a proper diagnosis?
Based in West Midlands.
2001, 208k miles.
What's the easiest method of troubleshooting?
Do I start by replacing the relay? Cruise control was intermittent at times, but now it's completely dead.
I don't think any of the rubber tubes have fallen off.
The previous owner gutted the cigarette lighter in favour for USB ports. This isn’t ideal as I can’t use a tyre inflate for the front wheels lol.
Will a generic cigarette lighter be a snug fit?
https://ebay.us/m/5ddEL9
I’m trying to reduce the wind noise by trying things in no particular order.
This could very well be a waste of money, but I’ve seen a set on eBay from a seller I’ve never heard of, so this could be poor quality.
Has anyone successfully replaced their door seals with something of quality?
I damaged the PCB whilst attempting to replace the case with one from China.
This meant my ENGINE DISABLED message was awaiting my presence once I attempted to start the car.
What was new to me was seeing "or Enter Key Code" after "PRESS REMOTE".
Now, I know my EKA code. This worked. The car started. Attempting to do it again, I no longer saw "or Enter Key Code". The car is not accepting my EKA code. I don't see a lockout error, but I only see "PRESS REMOTE" Do I have to wait? I've not been locked out from entering the key..
Car is on 206k.
You’ll hear two sounds in the video:
What could this be?
Saw a guy on Facebook who got it to work.
When my front propshaft snapped, the car would no longer go into park.
I’m a visual learner so unless I physically see what needs adjusting, I won’t know. Is it the cable that needs adjusting, or the XYZ switch?
If it’s the cable, what do I do? https://ebay.us/m/SAhzw4
If it’s the XYZ switch, is this hidden/what to adjust? - https://ebay.us/m/jhB24x
TIA.
I purchased my P38 with 80W/2 Autobeam branded H4 LED bulbs installed. One bulb has now expired.
Upon checking online, there’s various LED bulbs across various power outputs. Although skeptical of the specifications sellers list for their bulbs, I’ve found one that is 100W for each bulb. Apart from potentially blinding other users, would this fry anything?
My rear left passenger brake has worn out, and the disc has also become damaged. The right side is fine, so I do suspect a seized calliper.
Having never done such a job before, do I need to bleed the system (having the other half press the brake pedal a few times, before I connect the hose back up)?
Seems a simple job but want to be certain.
Tackling another job (will check RAVE when home). My front propshaft snapped (maybe a seized VC). Now, my front differential is making noises - confirmed by a 4x4 mechanic. (I’ve done the tests for a seized VC, all good) So, I’d want to change the oil to see if that helps.
Anyway, I digress. It seems fairly simple. Is this correct?
Oil - 1.6L of 75w90
Syringe
Oil pan + magnet for any metal
Do I need new plugs?
TIA.
My 4.6 V8 was rebuilt at 165k, before my ownership. There's a constant tapping sound regardless of engine temperature when the engine is on.
I did take it to my mechanic, and he suggested it was the camshaft.
I've lived with this for 8k miles now, but I'd like to know if there's anything that I can do to suppress the sound. Upon checking online, there are only two options that I can think of:
Of course, if the camshaft is knackered, the above won't do much but I thought I'll try the cheaper options first.
I’ll upload more pictures soon but this was probably self inflicted. Front worn tyre + excessive vibration = snapped off.
Is this an easy DIY job where all I need is the propshaft alone? Reading online, they mention UJ etc.
At 202k, I’d imagine it’s become a tad loose. I’ll hear cars go past, as if a window is open.
There’s a subtle whistle noise when on the motorway. It doesn’t take much force to push the glass up to hear the outside.
There’s this for £74 - (probably BritPart - will message the seller to confirm) - https://ebay.us/m/BBpJO8 but confirmed BritPart - £100 - https://ebay.us/m/J1Hrth.
Are there any other brands to go for.
Then, I’ll be paring the two with the Terrafirmer TF834 - https://ebay.us/m/nEIu2e - why, because my old P38 drove just so much smoother and it had this damper, so I’m trying to replicate that old setup.
Context - I did my alignment on the car. It didn’t last long. I’ve finished my tire off after 5000 miles. Outer edge is worn and I just came back from a 250 mile drive today - final nail in the coffin. The interior vibrations are too much at 30mph.
Hello,
So, my bonnet was intermittent but now, does not open when pulling the lever.
This is the kicker - the car will acknowledge the bonnet is open after pulling the lever, (will say BONNET OPEN when locking), and when I push the bonnet down, I hear a click.
What could this be?
Can’t source this elsewhere, and it’s a bit boring having to open the door from the passenger seat.