My P38 is currently SORN’d, so I’ve been thinking about a few little projects while it’s off the road.
One idea is to recolour the leather seats to something closer to the Holland & Holland interior, ideally a dark saddle/bridle brown.
Has anyone done something similar, or know of a good leather colour/shade that would suit the P38 and look fairly OEM?
Hi all, looking for some advice on a starting/fuel issue with my P38 4.6 V8.
Today it suddenly developed a very consistent starting problem:
I’m wondering if this could be fuel pressure bleeding down after shutdown, possibly fuel pump/check valve, pressure regulator or a leaking injector. The petrol smell obviously makes me concerned there could be an actual leak somewhere as well.
Has anyone experienced this exact first crank = no start, second crank = immediate start behaviour on a 4.6 P38? Anything specific you’d recommend checking first?
Thanks!
First electrical issue after 16k miles. Started the car and EAS fault arrived.
Right side is low, but the left is fine. Seems a hard fault. I remember using the EAS Unlock Suite. Is this cable fine?
https://ebay.io/m/ylaAXK
Let’s hope.
As I was about to type the above, I started the car and voila - error gone and the right side adjusted itself.
Now, when I first bought the car, it would end up on bump stops each time. To mitigate this, I park the vehicle at off-roading height, which has worked well for the last 16 months.
What’s the first step? Cable and software?
I've bulk emailed a few places asking if they can repaint the generic Hurricanes to the Holland & Holland two-tone blue colour. All refused!
Am I missing something?
Missing a cap. AC gradually died off over the months. I wonder if this is all due to a missing cap, or maybe my Schrader valve needs replacing. It's the valve on the right (high pressure, I'm assuming)
If simple, as there is no refrigerant, how easy would it be to replace the Schrader valves? What part would I need?
My left washer jet has knackered itself.
I am seeing:
Logic says DNJ100750, but why two designs? I ordered AMR5257, but have put in a cancellation request upon realising there are two model numbers.
The heat arrived with no warning, and my spontaneous trip to France didn’t help!
As for my AC. I don’t really want to take the car to a generic local garage as I’m not convinced they’d know where to look on a P38. Perhaps the system is no different to any other car and I’m just overthinking it.
I paid around £100 for a regas last year and it worked perfectly for a few months, until it suddenly didn’t. At one point, friends travelling behind me mentioned they saw what looked like a large pool of fluid leaking from the vehicle, which at the time I assumed was the washer bottle/tank leaking.
I’ve since refilled the washer fluid and observed absolutely no leaks, so I’m now wondering whether what they actually saw could have been refrigerant oil or simply heavy A/C condensation.
Can the main chains (Kwik Fit, ATS, Halfords etc.) generally diagnose these systems properly, or is this the sort of thing better suited to a Land Rover/4x4 specialist for a proper diagnosis?
Based in West Midlands.
2001, 208k miles.
What's the easiest method of troubleshooting?
Do I start by replacing the relay? Cruise control was intermittent at times, but now it's completely dead.
I don't think any of the rubber tubes have fallen off.
The previous owner gutted the cigarette lighter in favour for USB ports. This isn’t ideal as I can’t use a tyre inflate for the front wheels lol.
Will a generic cigarette lighter be a snug fit?
https://ebay.us/m/5ddEL9
I’m trying to reduce the wind noise by trying things in no particular order.
This could very well be a waste of money, but I’ve seen a set on eBay from a seller I’ve never heard of, so this could be poor quality.
Has anyone successfully replaced their door seals with something of quality?
I damaged the PCB whilst attempting to replace the case with one from China.
This meant my ENGINE DISABLED message was awaiting my presence once I attempted to start the car.
What was new to me was seeing "or Enter Key Code" after "PRESS REMOTE".
Now, I know my EKA code. This worked. The car started. Attempting to do it again, I no longer saw "or Enter Key Code". The car is not accepting my EKA code. I don't see a lockout error, but I only see "PRESS REMOTE" Do I have to wait? I've not been locked out from entering the key..
Car is on 206k.
You’ll hear two sounds in the video:
What could this be?
Saw a guy on Facebook who got it to work.
When my front propshaft snapped, the car would no longer go into park.
I’m a visual learner so unless I physically see what needs adjusting, I won’t know. Is it the cable that needs adjusting, or the XYZ switch?
If it’s the cable, what do I do? https://ebay.us/m/SAhzw4
If it’s the XYZ switch, is this hidden/what to adjust? - https://ebay.us/m/jhB24x
TIA.
I purchased my P38 with 80W/2 Autobeam branded H4 LED bulbs installed. One bulb has now expired.
Upon checking online, there’s various LED bulbs across various power outputs. Although skeptical of the specifications sellers list for their bulbs, I’ve found one that is 100W for each bulb. Apart from potentially blinding other users, would this fry anything?
My rear left passenger brake has worn out, and the disc has also become damaged. The right side is fine, so I do suspect a seized calliper.
Having never done such a job before, do I need to bleed the system (having the other half press the brake pedal a few times, before I connect the hose back up)?
Seems a simple job but want to be certain.
Tackling another job (will check RAVE when home). My front propshaft snapped (maybe a seized VC). Now, my front differential is making noises - confirmed by a 4x4 mechanic. (I’ve done the tests for a seized VC, all good) So, I’d want to change the oil to see if that helps.
Anyway, I digress. It seems fairly simple. Is this correct?
Oil - 1.6L of 75w90
Syringe
Oil pan + magnet for any metal
Do I need new plugs?
TIA.
My 4.6 V8 was rebuilt at 165k, before my ownership. There's a constant tapping sound regardless of engine temperature when the engine is on.
I did take it to my mechanic, and he suggested it was the camshaft.
I've lived with this for 8k miles now, but I'd like to know if there's anything that I can do to suppress the sound. Upon checking online, there are only two options that I can think of:
Of course, if the camshaft is knackered, the above won't do much but I thought I'll try the cheaper options first.
I’ll upload more pictures soon but this was probably self inflicted. Front worn tyre + excessive vibration = snapped off.
Is this an easy DIY job where all I need is the propshaft alone? Reading online, they mention UJ etc.
At 202k, I’d imagine it’s become a tad loose. I’ll hear cars go past, as if a window is open.
There’s a subtle whistle noise when on the motorway. It doesn’t take much force to push the glass up to hear the outside.