My P38 is currently SORN’d, so I’ve been thinking about a few little projects while it’s off the road.
One idea is to recolour the leather seats to something closer to the Holland & Holland interior, ideally a dark saddle/bridle brown.
Has anyone done something similar, or know of a good leather colour/shade that would suit the P38 and look fairly OEM?
Gilbertd wrote:
v8vroom wrote:
Will be taking this to the mechanic - my love for fixing is over, ha.
You've go the wrong car then. I've always said if you can't fix a P38 yourself and always take it to a mechanic, it;'ll bankrupt you.
Looking at that leak, I suggest you get it trailered to the mechanic. That amount of petrol spraying over the exhaust downpipes is a fire waiting for a location.
I agree but through my own delusion, I’ve manifested great income jumps to support this Range and my ‘99 XJR so I guess it keeps me motivated.
The most I ever fixed personally was the front diff. It was in that moment that I decided I don’t like the idea of crawling under the car. If I had my own ramp, then it’d be much easier.
I’ve rang my two local specialists and they aren’t free for a while, so I’m forced to use a local mechanic. I’ve got a somewhat unhealthy level of scepticism giving an old car to a garage who hardly work with it.
I’m leaning on the principle that this job is simple, and any competent mechanic can repair this.
After 17k of daily miles, I may retire this to be a workhorse and buy my old Jaguar X351 as a cruiser once more.
Thorst wrote:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3952-fuel-lines-and-pump
th.
Will be taking this to the mechanic - my love for fixing is over, ha.
Yep, she’s leaking alright.
https://photos.icloud.com/shared/album/0b95JKq906YQ8aCxY6_wq3DdA
I’ve got no other car to use. Let’s hope this doesn’t kill me.
Maybe I’m overthinking, but the wife and I do feel a bit sick. I wonder if this is due to inhaling the fumes.
Hi all, looking for some advice on a starting/fuel issue with my P38 4.6 V8.
Today it suddenly developed a very consistent starting problem:
I’m wondering if this could be fuel pressure bleeding down after shutdown, possibly fuel pump/check valve, pressure regulator or a leaking injector. The petrol smell obviously makes me concerned there could be an actual leak somewhere as well.
Has anyone experienced this exact first crank = no start, second crank = immediate start behaviour on a 4.6 P38? Anything specific you’d recommend checking first?
Thanks!
First electrical issue after 16k miles. Started the car and EAS fault arrived.
Right side is low, but the left is fine. Seems a hard fault. I remember using the EAS Unlock Suite. Is this cable fine?
https://ebay.io/m/ylaAXK
Let’s hope.
As I was about to type the above, I started the car and voila - error gone and the right side adjusted itself.
Now, when I first bought the car, it would end up on bump stops each time. To mitigate this, I park the vehicle at off-roading height, which has worked well for the last 16 months.
What’s the first step? Cable and software?
I've bulk emailed a few places asking if they can repaint the generic Hurricanes to the Holland & Holland two-tone blue colour. All refused!
Am I missing something?
For anyone who stumbles across this, this worked. Albeit could’ve gotten it cheaper from China but time was a factor here.
Can you recommend a place that sells a fitting valve cap? Checking online, I’m reading many reviews with the same issue - 16mm not fitting. I’ve ordered a bunch off Amazon in hopes that one fits.
I adore the L322. Only other range I’d consider.
I’ve pinged the seller requesting a replacement. To confirm, I’ve ordered the 13mm and 16mm set.
Interestingly enough, I’m looking into domestic AC installations for my parents - quotes vary from 2.3k - 2.6k for the single room.
What a difference AC makes.
The car is now regassed; however, my replacement valve caps aren't ideal. The low-pressure valve cap fit without an issue; however, the high-pressure valve cap kept spinning. I am wondering if this is a quality control issue and I was sent a defective cap, or I need to order something else.
Missing a cap. AC gradually died off over the months. I wonder if this is all due to a missing cap, or maybe my Schrader valve needs replacing. It's the valve on the right (high pressure, I'm assuming)
If simple, as there is no refrigerant, how easy would it be to replace the Schrader valves? What part would I need?
My left washer jet has knackered itself.
I am seeing:
Logic says DNJ100750, but why two designs? I ordered AMR5257, but have put in a cancellation request upon realising there are two model numbers.
The heat arrived with no warning, and my spontaneous trip to France didn’t help!
As for my AC. I don’t really want to take the car to a generic local garage as I’m not convinced they’d know where to look on a P38. Perhaps the system is no different to any other car and I’m just overthinking it.
I paid around £100 for a regas last year and it worked perfectly for a few months, until it suddenly didn’t. At one point, friends travelling behind me mentioned they saw what looked like a large pool of fluid leaking from the vehicle, which at the time I assumed was the washer bottle/tank leaking.
I’ve since refilled the washer fluid and observed absolutely no leaks, so I’m now wondering whether what they actually saw could have been refrigerant oil or simply heavy A/C condensation.
Can the main chains (Kwik Fit, ATS, Halfords etc.) generally diagnose these systems properly, or is this the sort of thing better suited to a Land Rover/4x4 specialist for a proper diagnosis?
Based in West Midlands.
2001, 208k miles.
What's the easiest method of troubleshooting?
Do I start by replacing the relay? Cruise control was intermittent at times, but now it's completely dead.
I don't think any of the rubber tubes have fallen off.
Gilbertd wrote:
Going thinner will only make it worse if it is oil related. If it was exhaust manifold, chances are it would get quieter as it heated the manifold up and go away once hot.
This is the sound - https://youtu.be/7DsdQQsvo9k
The second part, which is recorded from the footwell. The microphone does not pick it up well, but there is a subtle rattle as I accelerate. I've got myself booked in a few weeks to get this investigated. I do hope it's the exhaust gaskets.
Good timing on this post. My 4.6 V8 has been ticking over the last 12k miles I've owned it. Sitting at 207k, it was rebuilt at 165k and has always had 20w50 fed. This could be either the camshaft or exhaust manifold (it ticks the second the engine starts), but I'd like to play with the oil as it's due for a change.
Will 10w40 suffice? I'm on the brink of ordering it, but would like some input.
The previous owner gutted the cigarette lighter in favour for USB ports. This isn’t ideal as I can’t use a tyre inflate for the front wheels lol.
Will a generic cigarette lighter be a snug fit?
https://ebay.us/m/5ddEL9