For anyone who stumbles across this, this worked. Albeit could’ve gotten it cheaper from China but time was a factor here.
Can you recommend a place that sells a fitting valve cap? Checking online, I’m reading many reviews with the same issue - 16mm not fitting. I’ve ordered a bunch off Amazon in hopes that one fits.
I adore the L322. Only other range I’d consider.
I’ve pinged the seller requesting a replacement. To confirm, I’ve ordered the 13mm and 16mm set.
Interestingly enough, I’m looking into domestic AC installations for my parents - quotes vary from 2.3k - 2.6k for the single room.
What a difference AC makes.
The car is now regassed; however, my replacement valve caps aren't ideal. The low-pressure valve cap fit without an issue; however, the high-pressure valve cap kept spinning. I am wondering if this is a quality control issue and I was sent a defective cap, or I need to order something else.
Missing a cap. AC gradually died off over the months. I wonder if this is all due to a missing cap, or maybe my Schrader valve needs replacing. It's the valve on the right (high pressure, I'm assuming)
If simple, as there is no refrigerant, how easy would it be to replace the Schrader valves? What part would I need?
My left washer jet has knackered itself.
I am seeing:
Logic says DNJ100750, but why two designs? I ordered AMR5257, but have put in a cancellation request upon realising there are two model numbers.
The heat arrived with no warning, and my spontaneous trip to France didn’t help!
As for my AC. I don’t really want to take the car to a generic local garage as I’m not convinced they’d know where to look on a P38. Perhaps the system is no different to any other car and I’m just overthinking it.
I paid around £100 for a regas last year and it worked perfectly for a few months, until it suddenly didn’t. At one point, friends travelling behind me mentioned they saw what looked like a large pool of fluid leaking from the vehicle, which at the time I assumed was the washer bottle/tank leaking.
I’ve since refilled the washer fluid and observed absolutely no leaks, so I’m now wondering whether what they actually saw could have been refrigerant oil or simply heavy A/C condensation.
Can the main chains (Kwik Fit, ATS, Halfords etc.) generally diagnose these systems properly, or is this the sort of thing better suited to a Land Rover/4x4 specialist for a proper diagnosis?
Based in West Midlands.
2001, 208k miles.
What's the easiest method of troubleshooting?
Do I start by replacing the relay? Cruise control was intermittent at times, but now it's completely dead.
I don't think any of the rubber tubes have fallen off.
Gilbertd wrote:
Going thinner will only make it worse if it is oil related. If it was exhaust manifold, chances are it would get quieter as it heated the manifold up and go away once hot.
This is the sound - https://youtu.be/7DsdQQsvo9k
The second part, which is recorded from the footwell. The microphone does not pick it up well, but there is a subtle rattle as I accelerate. I've got myself booked in a few weeks to get this investigated. I do hope it's the exhaust gaskets.
Good timing on this post. My 4.6 V8 has been ticking over the last 12k miles I've owned it. Sitting at 207k, it was rebuilt at 165k and has always had 20w50 fed. This could be either the camshaft or exhaust manifold (it ticks the second the engine starts), but I'd like to play with the oil as it's due for a change.
Will 10w40 suffice? I'm on the brink of ordering it, but would like some input.
The previous owner gutted the cigarette lighter in favour for USB ports. This isn’t ideal as I can’t use a tyre inflate for the front wheels lol.
Will a generic cigarette lighter be a snug fit?
https://ebay.us/m/5ddEL9
I’m trying to reduce the wind noise by trying things in no particular order.
This could very well be a waste of money, but I’ve seen a set on eBay from a seller I’ve never heard of, so this could be poor quality.
Has anyone successfully replaced their door seals with something of quality?
Gilbertd wrote:
it could be the receiver or it could just be where you are parked. If there is a high level of RF in the area you are parked and it doesn't want to unlock, just hold the fob next to the receiver aerial on the RH rear window. I've found with mine (with one of Marty's fob fix units in it), that in some places it will only lock if I hold the fob next to the aerial but will usually unlock fine.
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
My personal circumstances have changed, so I may very well double down on the car (within reason, lol) (£2k budget). It's either I sell the car (with difficulty), and then spend £8k buying my old Jag XJ. I'd rather just fix the small issues, as the car is solid.
Would you know the going rate for these jobs?
I've emailed a few places to get a rough idea, but it'll be nice to know who is potentially ripping me off.
v8vroom wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
Have you disconnected the battery? If you have you will get a Keycode Lockout message on the dash which will go out after 30 minutes. While that is displayed, you cannot enter the EKA.
As it stands now, every time you lock and subsequently unlock the car you will need to enter the EKA. If the EKA is entered with a Nanocom, then you can lock and unlock with the key and it won't ask for the EKA.
Send your key here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146 to get it repaired and fitted into a decent quality case.
I have not disconnected the battery. Oddly, the EKA code stopped working right after it worked once. I don't see the EKA Code Lockout error at all. Bit weird that it worked once and not anymore. I'm going to try again soon. It has to work as this is my daily lol.
After three weeks, my key was repaired by this guy. Thanks for the recommendation.
I assuemd new batteries would fix all issues, however, that is not the case. There are inconsistencies with the car accepting an action from my remote key. Some days the car will unlock from 50ft, but others, it will not react when stood right next to the door. Could it be the receiver?
Gilbertd wrote:
Bracket part number 8 https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/9.55827.56317.61034/brand/land-rover/
Unrelated, I am now selling the car and am wondering what is an ideal price to list this for.
Been my daily for ~11k miles, runs fine
Front propshaft replaced ~5 months ago
Engine rebuilt at 165k
Slight front diff whine
Gear selector linkage may need adjustment
Light top-end rattle (lifter/cam) – long-standing, no issues
Needs front and rear discs & pads
Front ball joints need doing
Slight rust on rear wheel arch (hasn’t worsened)
Cat S (corner of rear bumper was cracked)
It owes me £5000, so I have listed it for that, but I'd happily accept £4500. Am I being unrealistic?
Gilbertd wrote:
If that is the case, Nanocom is your only option.
I've messaged that guy on eBay. If he can repair it, great. If not, Les Edward it is for a new key.
Gilbertd wrote:
Close all doors, bonnet and tailgate. Turn the key to lock 4 times, on each turn the hazards should flash, then start the EKA with turns to unlock for the first number, lock for the second and so on. After the first 4 turns, the small green lights-on telltale on the dash should flash with each turn. Then immediately start the car. If you have passive immobilisation enabled in the BeCM, the immobiliser will kick in again if you don't start it within 30 seconds.
Yeah, I saw no lights flash on the dash. I suspect a dodgy door latch, as I did make a post briefly on here stating it would not unlock.
I have three genuine keys from previous P38s. I can’t imagine they’d sync with this..I tried but failed. Maybe a nanocom/dealership job.
No matter what I do, I just see PRESS REMOTE. No “or enter key code”. The indicators flash each time I turn the key.
I lock the car, then turn four times. Even tried locking first (counting as 1), and turning 3 more times. Doesn’t work. I also don’t get the chirp to confirm I’ve entered the mode (2001)