i had , what i thought was a parasitic drain on the battery to find out it was a stuffed battery. the issue started with the flat battery the day after using the car, so i charged the battery and then went back after it sat for three days to find another flat battery. as i hadn't connected the battery, it was obvious what was happening, off to the shop , new battery and all good, no that's not how it works. we all know that nothing is that simple, after connecting up the new battery i decided to just check that the alternator was working and yes it was working, it was working to much actually, charging at 16.9volts," i think this is the reason for the battery dying " even i know that's not right. now the real issue, i have 3 spare alternators or should i say had. the issue with the alternators is the brushes, and the bearings, but that's another day,
where the brushes rub on the rotor in the alternator on the brass piece on the shaft had very large grooves on the outside brush, this was on 2 of the alternators and that brush had all but worn away, whilst the other was fine. is this piece replaceable or is it the hole rotor that has to be replaced, also is the regulator still available as i don't seem to be able to find them in Australia. so as a warning if you have alternators as spares remove the back cover and visually look at the brushes and the area that they contact.
Hello all
The fuel lines in my P38 have decided to develop into sprinklers, so it seems I have to something about it, since I am eccentric enough to want the petrol to actually reach the engine.
There is petrol leaking both from the line between tank and filter, and somewhere over the tank.
So the plan is to drop the tank, replace pump (don't intend to make a habit out of dropping the tank) and lines.
The shopping list seems to be:
STC4344 Fuel pump
NTC5859 Fuel Pump Seal
NTC5858 Fuel Pump Locking Ring
WJP106150 Fuel Feed Pipe - Pump To Filter
WJP106160 Fuel Pipe - To Pump
ESR4065 Fuel Filter
Just wanted to check with the knowledge base here if I am missing something?
Or any good advice?
I've dropped a tank once before, on one of by Buicks, so I think I have some idea of what I am about to do, but never on a Rangie.
th.
Does anyone have some original P38 Overfinch parts they are wanting to sell? Looking for wheels, front splitter and kick plates + anything else original considered Tks Phil
I have occasionally had the problem that the seatbelt buckles open by themselves. The lock just releases the buckle without any intervention.
Not funny while driving, especially if it happens to the kids. Only at the front seats though.
Has anyone ever had this ?
I have opened one, cleaned and oiled it but that didn't last long.
Is there a spring inside that weakens?
I guess replacing for a used one will not last long, any idea if they are still available new ?
It is a safety issue so should work reliably...
Hi,
having recieved my new nanocom I saw that the IAT Sensor shows a temperature that is about 15-20 Degrees C below the actual temperature.
Wiring ist OK, 5V coming from the ECU and the Ohm reading is about what is to be expected accordin to a table that circulating the internet.
Since the Sensor does not seem to be available anywhere I would like to find out why the treading is off.
I could:
Some time ago, well over a year, I needed a new alternator so checked with the usual suspects (Island4x4 and LRDirect) for a 120A AMR2938 for a GEMS and found one of them gave me the option of a Britpart or a Hella . Working on the principle that a dead alternator can stop the car, I ordered the Hella. Fitted it and checked that it was working by putting my meter across the battery and was pleased to see 14.4V. Many months later (recently), I had the ignition switched on but engine not running and after about 30 seconds the dash beeped at me and came up with Alternator Fault. I also noticed no picture of a battery on the dash (but with all the other warning lights that come on with the ignition, it's easy to not notice one that isn't there). But the alternator was still doing what it should and charging the battery at 14.4V. Checked with the Nanocom that the bulb hadn't blown and found that I could make it come on from within the BeCM Outputs menu.
Recently decided to do something about it in case it stopped working and didn't tell me about it. I'd got 3 alternators in the garage but had no idea if any were any good. One was a weird make I've never heard of, one was a 100A version and one was the desired 120A AMR2938. Tried connecting the thin Brown/Yellow wire to the D+ terminal with the alternator body grounded through the rocker cover, turned on the ignition and no picture of a battery on the dash, but there was if I grounded the wire. Concluded the regulator was dead so ordered one of these https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/hc-cargo-25072361.html. It arrived within a couple of days and although the box said HC Cargo, the label on the box said it was made by Robert Bosch.....
Fitted it to the dead alternator, bolted it onto the car and with just the D+ wire connected the battery light on the dash came on with the ignition. Went to connect the main power cable to the alternator and got a spark. That shouldn't happen unless one of the diodes in the alternator is short circuit and a quick check with the meter showed it was drawing 6A. Bugger. So took it off again, removed the new regulator and was about to put it back in the box to keep as a spare. Then had a thought. The Hella was sitting there looking at me and a closer look showed that although the label on it said Hella, it was actually a Magneti Marelli, identical to the one that I had just taken apart. So I pulled the cover off the back and found it had the same regulator in it. So fitted the new regulator to the 'Hella', fitted it to the car, turned the ignition on and was happy to see a battery warning light on the dash. Started the car and the battery was charging at 14.4V. At least now if I do have a problem with charging, I feel confident that I'll have a warning light on the dash to tell me about it.
But this isn't the end of it. Nigelbb has been here today as we needed to change one of his front wheel bearings. While he was here, we were playing with his new toy, the Carplay/Android display. While playing he had the ignition on and the dash beeped and came up with Alternator Fault and we noticed that he doesn't have a battery warning light either. He thinks the car has done it in all the 10 years he has owned it but had never noticed no battery warning light. What makes this more interesting is his car is a Thor so has a different alternator but it seems they also suffer the same problem. Interestingly, the only regulator I can find listed under the part numbers for both Thor alternators, are a Hitachi one. I always thought the Thor had a Bosch?
At 202k, I’d imagine it’s become a tad loose. I’ll hear cars go past, as if a window is open.
There’s a subtle whistle noise when on the motorway. It doesn’t take much force to push the glass up to hear the outside.
There’s this for £74 - (probably BritPart - will message the seller to confirm) - https://ebay.us/m/BBpJO8 but confirmed BritPart - £100 - https://ebay.us/m/J1Hrth.
Are there any other brands to go for.
Then, I’ll be paring the two with the Terrafirmer TF834 - https://ebay.us/m/nEIu2e - why, because my old P38 drove just so much smoother and it had this damper, so I’m trying to replicate that old setup.
Context - I did my alignment on the car. It didn’t last long. I’ve finished my tire off after 5000 miles. Outer edge is worn and I just came back from a 250 mile drive today - final nail in the coffin. The interior vibrations are too much at 30mph.
I have been using TomTom on my iPhone as my satnav but just bought this brilliant CarPlay tablet. It's priced at £70 but there is a 20% voucher that gets applied at checkout to make it £56 which is less than half the price that these devices usually are. It allows me to run TomTom on my iPhone but have display on the large 1600x600 pixel. Other apps can be run too like BBC Sounds or Podcasts. I believe Android Auto offers similar facilities.
It runs off the cigar lighter & can connect to the car audio via Bluetooth (when I get round to fitting a GROM dongle) or FM transmitter. It is permanently connected & starts up every time the car starts. I'm so impressed with the value for money that I thought I would share the news😀.
10.26" display
4K Front Dash Cam including 64GB SD Card
1080P Reversing Camera (wired)
Car Play & Android Auto
Bluetooth
FM transmitter
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FKMRCKPJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Hello
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/how-to-safely-have-a-p38-locked-with-battery-disconnected.179857/
From above site.
marty_nz 2015
“The way I disconnect the battery and secure the vehicle - and what I advise others to do on their P38s is to disconnect the battery with the vehicle UNLOCKED,
And then manually close the doors/lock them with the sill locking buttons, and then manually lock the drivers door with the key.”
YES I DID THAT it worked the vehicle was all locked.
A few days later came back used key in door to unlock and went on with the mechanical job. I had to lock and unlock several times with the key in door during the job.
Work finished ….. opened the door, and window, and kept them open while I opened the bonnet and reconnected the battery.
When I have done this in the past there was the sound of the doors locking.
Drivers door still open but no sound this time, car not locked.
Put key in ignition all okay, turned key and motor started so no problems there.
Tried to sync key fob as I have done in the past ….no flashing red light this time …. no sync.
Tried the spare key same no sync.
Their batteries were new 8 months ago and both have been operating perfectly.
I have been using the car for a week now using key in door to lock/unlock.
All doors lock/unlock using the key except the passenger door…. it hasn’t worked electrically since I purchased the car 12 months ago.
The starting and running of the motor is not a problem.
Reset the windows, mirrors can be moved and self dipping function disabled okay.
Suspension all working.
Has anybody got any ideas on how I can get the key fobs to sync so the lock/unlock buttons are operational?
Thanks in advance
Andrew
I have a leak in the exhaust pipe just forward of the centre silencer flange so the pipe will have to be dropped to weld it up.
Only potential problem I can see is getting the flange nuts off without snapping the studs. Pretty certain mine have never been off since the car was made. Obviously new nuts needed but should the studs be changed too.
Whats the approved method for removal without potentially creating major league problems. Drilling out snapped studs in-situ, especially upside down, is not on the list of Clives 6 million favourite things to do! Drilling out clean and in line isn't silly hard. Especially if proper drill guide is made first. But it's the principle of the thing. Last exhaust I dropped out it situ had brass nuts on the flange side! Not gonna admit how many years ago, or what vehicle, that was.
If heat is desirable I'm wondering whether one of the affordable induction current heaters is up for such jobs. I know the pro ones work very well indeed but are the £150 (ish) things off amazon et al up for it. £150 to avoid ages struggling and swearing under the car is worth it. £700 to £2,000 for low end of proper jobbies is not.
Really not a fan of waving a gas axe or similar open flame around near the engine bay.
Clive
I had the car out last week on a green laning day, did 160miles in total, drove 60miles there on normal a roads, no issues, and another 25ish miles of lanes. towards the end of the day the ABS fault appeared. It appeared on startup, not while driving.
This issue plagued me last winter, and something i noticed back then was it only ever appeared upon starting the engine. NEVER when driving. If you started the car without the fault, you'd be fine for hours. Usually if it appeared, a quick reset with nanocom and power cycle and you'd be fine. Occasionally it would stick around but would clear later. I should mention this is a Wabco D system with the black ECU.
I had a hunch there was something battery/power related, my battery was very weak/old/knackered. I was having starting issues at the same time. A short drive to get some juice in the battery then it would reset was my thinking... In the spring i swapped the battery and added a solar charger. After that, i've never seen the issue again until now.
The fault code itself is Front Right Sensor - Short to Another Sensor. It ALWAYS says it has occured 012 times.
If you check sensor voltages in the live data, all sensors are reading about 2.2v, including the front right.
So this time it seems worse. It appeared on that green lane, i reset it and it reappeared immediately on restarting the engine. Tried another few times on the way home, didnt get anywhere. Left it until today as i had a dump run to do with the trailer. Popped out earlier, reset the code and sure enough it came right back. I left it running for 10minutes while i pumped up the tyre, and while i was waiting on the compressor i pulled the three connectors out of the ECU and checked them for corrosion, all looked fine. With everything plugged in, there was now a zillion fault codes as to be expected.
Cleared codes, drove it down the street, lights all went out. Great stuff. Quick loop of the block, parked back in the drive to hook up the trailer and when i restarted it the fault came back.
Has anyone seen anything like this before? I'm tempted to swap the battery again, with a brand new one this time, on the vague idea that maybe the poorer weather means the solar panel isnt doing much and this battery is also a bit tired... But i also dont want to waste money replacing a battery which seems to crank up the engine just fine, if its actually a faulty ABS ECU or something!
hi folks not p38 related but today I was sorting out the throttle body on MY10 discovery4 and while it was off looked in side and saw both manifolds have splits in them
looks like a change of them on the cards
would anyone know if it a pig of a job or they easy like the p38?
Hello,
So, my bonnet was intermittent but now, does not open when pulling the lever.
This is the kicker - the car will acknowledge the bonnet is open after pulling the lever, (will say BONNET OPEN when locking), and when I push the bonnet down, I hear a click.
What could this be?
Hey everyone,
I come from the armpit of the dark side, in other words a moderator over at the other place. Gilbertd recommended I join over here so after a bit of finagling here I am. I have a temperamental 2011 Range Rover Sport L320 3.0 TDV6, as such it’s what I mostly know since I tinker with it. A while back I had a 2000 P38 for around 8 years which was very up and down. Until recently I was working full time at an independent LR shop the last few years working on various LR’s, so I do have dirty hands. Now I’m kind of freelancing with another LR shop mostly doing electrical work and other projects. I am originally from So Cal, moved to Bristol, UK in 2018 and then Poznan, Poland in 2020 during the Covid nonsense. Hoping to get out of here in the near future, but have to see how it goes. Anyway, hope I can bring something to the forum.
I’m also the one who asked Frankie the filter part numbers for my car, it got them wrong, twice. It’s gotten just about everything asked of it wrong. Except when I asked it for a sweet tea recipe, it was actually pretty good.
Neighbour just bought P38 Diesel, compared to mine it is very sluggish,push the throttle and revs climb to 2500 then it starts to pull.
It has a Rimers tunning box fitted, Nanocom tell me fuel metering out of range. Could this box be causing the problem, how does it connect into the system all the wires are black and I have no paperwork for it.
Thanks Richard
Hey Gilbert,
When are gonna get us a Frankenstein ai for the Pub?
I have not laughed at a forum post from the dark side for a long time!
Thanks!!
On the other hand, be afraid, be VERY afraid..........
For those who don't lurk on the dark side, I am referring to this:
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/test-thread.371343/
Hi,
I have read some things about the failing plastic washer in the brake modulator and I think Richard also wrote about a clicking in the pedal being an early symtom.
I have a regular little click about in the middle of the brake travel and also when I sometimes brake (usually at slow speeds) the pedal feels like when the ABS is kicking in (fast series of feelable clicks in the pedal) even though there is no reason for the ABS to engage (tarmac road, slow braking)
Is that an early symtom of this issue ? Mine ist a 98 GEMS.
And what would be the remedy, I have read about a quite complicated repair, exchanginf the washer for a stainless steel one. Or complete modulator exchange with a used one from a later Model ? Is that possible or is that incompatible due to the different Traction control (2/4 Wheels) ?
greetings,
Max.
Hi folks,
Driving home this evening. All going fine, nothing in the display, when I heard 3 beeps. If there was anything in the dash display it was only there for a split second.
Stopped, left car for an hour or so and then was driven home in the car by my wife (I’d had eye relaxant drops put in and couldn’t). Got home, and as we arrived got the three beeps again, twice I think. This time I looked at the display and, just maybe, it was going through all the start-up series of warnings (low screen wash; window not set; etc).
Because I wasn’t driving I can’t say if the beep sequence did happen twice, or whether my wife had momentarily turned the key back on again - she can’t really say.
So could it be that there’s an intermittent fault at the back of the ignition switch (or somewhere else) that makes the car react as if it’s just been switched on? Meanwhile the engine keeps running and the car keeps on travelling down the road.
I think this is a new thing. It may have happened this morning on the way in, but I didn’t pay it much heed because everything kept on working. Now that it’s happened another 2 or 3 times on the same day I’m thinking something’s going on.
I had a previous incident with the central locking/immobiliser in a hospital car park drenched in radio signals, and there was a suggestion the ignition switch might have been a bit sticky. I have a little tin of graphite lock lube and I’ll drop a squirt into the switch. Is this likely to be all that’s wrong, or do those ‘symptoms’ suggest something uglier is rearing its head?
Ta.
The Duchess has decided to start making a banging noise. Not a mechanical one, but when she's parked the speakers thump loudly, even with the key out. This is has got so bad I can hear it in the house and it has flattened the battery!
What is the remedy? In the meantime, knowing which fuse(s) to pull would be really helpful!!