First time attempting this yesterday on a friends 2001. We've got the blocks and a guide I've read throughly.
Using nanocom we sent it to high but couldn't get the nsr block in so jacked it up on the towbar to enable us to do so.
We messed about for ages and were getting constant variables with the nsr sensor so replaced it with a new one.
In a nutshell, the engine had to run a lot to power the eas compressor, turning off the engine caused the nano to shut down and need rebooting so we left it running. Hot sweaty day, irritable but we got there in the end.

It's easy for me to jack up the front and rear of the car over my pit and insert the blocks, no scrabbling underneath needed, I have pit Jack's.
My query..
If I disable the compressor, let all the air out of the springs then it would be easy for us to lift the car up and down as necessary to fit the blocks, read the heights and store them without the engine running and us having to shout over the engine noise(diesel). What I'm not sure of is would the nano still see the heights and store them etc with just the ign on position 2 ?
Just thinking aloud!

Oh dear.

The intermittent Cheque Book light is starting to annoy me, now that the Duchess will start, drive and stay up on her bags. The light comes on for every cold start. If I drive for fifteen minutes or so and restart, the light goes out.
I've just been doing some fiddly poking with the Nanocom and saw a ton of faults, all of which cleared apart from this one
right hand blower motor stop mode fault (current)
The left hand blower works fine, the right hand one seems weak rather than stopped - but the fault is definitely there.
So, where do I start?
Fuse box?
Resistors?

Can anyone please link me to the right Valeo parts please? I have a feeling that something in a Peugot box would be better value than one with a Green Oval :D

Hi engine on P38 starts then instantly cuts off. I have tried the reset sequence with the key but that did not help. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Right, it's time to get into the EAS issues on my Range Rover.
Feel free to ignore this thread if it's too tedious but I thought I'd be better off writing stuff down methodically and if anyone has any advice (apart from Mr Molotov) just shout/laugh at me....

Symptoms:

1. Compressor runs too much. Has been like that for (ahem!) time.
2. Sits down overnight, parked on a slight slope.
3. Sits down over a couple of days sitting on the flat.
4. Just realised that the green dust seen between the solenoids in the block is probably dessicant!
5. Driving back from Salisbury, EAS boop boop and the Nanocom revealed "Valve permanently closed RHF"

She managed to drive back for 2.5 hours on emergency valves at 65 PSI all round (maybe 55 at the back?) and sat down again over three days. She self levelled on the way down, which was strange but I guess it's logical that the bags on the high side get squished more.

Resources!

2x Valve Blocks with Driver pack and plastic box.
The fitted one was last rebuilt 6-7 years ago
The spare on was rebuilt a couple of months ago but I couldn't get any pressure into the system when I hooked it up. Hmmm.
1x Dunlop compressor (fitted) which wasn't able to get us home, and I forgot to unplug it when we started driving again so it was probably running all that time, probably toast.
1x "Good, used" OEM compressor from ebay (the CNS4x4 Guy in Wales) which hopefully will run OK but needs testing.
1x compressor rebuild kit including sleeve from X8R

Nanocom
Calibration Rods

small brain.

First things I'm going to check:

1. Has the Dunlop Compressor died?
2. Is the dessicant in the dryer now done? (It's ancient, last changed just before a summer camp!) and is it now green?
3. Does the new pump run and produce pressure?

Then we'll see....

Hi, does anyone know, if I can put an original Alpine head (Harman Kardon with all the gadgets like DSP and SUB) unit sinmply plug & play into a 98 midline equipped Gems?

I have a 2001 breaker with a working unit and thinking of swapping my after market unit to a genuine one ...
Thanks in advance!

Does anyone know the location / owner of the P38 sporting "RRP38A" plate? I spotted the car for sale a few years ago but see it's not been MOTd since 2021.

Hi folks - occasional lurker here but first post.

My 95 P38 4.0 developed a problem yesterday. The problem is that the bits of the engine that live in the block exploded out of the oil pan.

There weren't really any warning signs - I thought it sounded a bit rough at idle a couple of minutes before it failed, but that's it. After about a minute on the highway at 50mph there was a bang, I lost power and a load of smoke came out of both ends. After pulling over and seeing oil spewed out the side of the engine I knew it was done for.

I'm not sure what the underlying cause was. It was driving well but had started leaking quite a bit of oil recently and I had been topping it up. I don't think that the oil was low when it broke down as there's still a fair amount left in the sump (see photo - that's after a lot of oil came out the side of the block...).

The car drives ok but is pretty beaten up (broken plastic, permanent SRS fault, etc) and it doesn't make sense to throw money at it. Still... P38s are getting rarer and I'm attached to it. Is it realistic to try an engine swap at home?

Otherwise I guess I can scrap it and find another one in nice condition. That's the rational thing to do, right?

While I was switching between EAS boxes yesterday, I remembered that the cruise control vacuum has been disconnected at the usual T for err.. quite some time. So I took the opportunity to reroute the long line from the accelerator in front of the bracketry and that made it long enough to connect up again.
Once I had air in the bags again I went for a test drive, wondering if the CC would come back to life. It didn't :(
Have I knackered it by leaving the vacuum circuit open to atmosphere?

I set the CC button on the dash, got to about 50mph and then pressed the SET+ button on the wheel. Nothing happened. I kinda remember a light on the dash as well, but if that was ever a real thing, it isn't now. Is there anything else I can try?

Hi folks :)
I tried rebuilding a Dunlop branded EAS compressor a while back and it was so totally grenaded inside I gave up as the bearings were shot.
I've got two more in the garage of uncertain provenance. What do you reckon to my chances with these ones?

https://eatlard.net/index.php/s/3bKWRbLXC395oJT

Just wondering if there is a better place to stick the aerial rather than on the heated windscreen, just in case the heated element interferes with the signal??

Good evening.
I am finally back in the P38 game after taking nearly a year to replace my shattered flex-plate. I also had some "ticking" sound from a hole in the exhaust manifold, got that welded too.
Since this car is constantly testing my faith, now I have a new sound ^^.
When engine is cold it sounds fine, when it warms up there is a ticking sound, coming from the middle of the engine. I have used a mechanics' stethosope to find the sound but it sounds the same everywhere. Up, down, left right. Sound very central like where the camshaft is. It is also about 6 times a second, so quite exactly half the RPM, so camshaft speed.
Any ideas please what that could be ? I was already fearing the liners.....
I have attached a sound file, first couple seconds engine cold, then engine warm.....
greetings,
Max.
https://c.web.de/@337510546125364120/wG6ArPRS8KkJ1kI5dHarGA
(you have to mark the whole link and then paste into browser...don´t know how to do it better...)

So I've had an issue for a long time where the barrel sticks in, and you get the "ignition key in" error. I usually just tap the barrel with the key and the warning goes away.

However it seems to have gotten worse. Now I get the message even when the barrel has popped out, and no amount of poking or jiggling will fix the message.

Any ideas how to sort it? Is it likely to be the switch itself?

Is it possible to extend the interior lights fade out? Using nanocom?

I have been getting the low screen wash error message for quite a while now & I have been investigating how to fix it. The screen wash reservoir is of course full. At the recommendation of @Gilbertd I left a hose running in the reservoir as apparently they can get sludge up. This did work the first time that I did it but the error message returned. I have subsequently left a hose running for a couple of hours to no effect.

The sensor AMR3270 is NLA & the only way to get a used one is to buy a complete reservoir with pumps etc & then you take the chance that the 20+ year old sensor won't work anyway.

The only issue with having the low screenwash message is that to conserve screenwash the headlamp wash/wipe is disabled. I have read that just disconnecting the sensor should get rid of the message but that doesn't seem to work for me. Access from underneath isn't great but I thought that I had found the blue plug that connects to the sensor & disconnected it but perhaps I got the wrong plug?

I need to look in RAVE to see how easy it is to replace the sensor. Even assuming that I could get a replacement it looks like it would be quite a chore to get at it.

Dear All, My car only has one original key. I would like it to have two for obvious reasons and want to keep the originality. (I do not want new style L322 keys). I do have a good matching pair of working p38 keys from a car I scrapped. Am I correct in thinking that you can't re-program keys to fit my car but I could have my BECM reprogrammed to fit my 'new' matching pair? I hope this makes sense.

Been looking into mutiliating a dashboard centre panel and fitting a modern large screen "radio" (or whatever the proper modern name is ) to my HSE. Primarily for hands free phone, reversing camera and nice big GPS map display.

Naturally done neatly without wires trailing all over the place.

Downloading and reading the instruction manuals suggests that the Panasonic SPH Evo950DAB will do the deed. £££ but I've not got teh patience to deal with integrating a more affordable import. Seems to have an appropriate feature list and run Waze natively. I assume running Waze via the phone means I loos navigation if I have to deal with a call. But it needs a wired connection for the media player. Looks like either a USB stick or my old iPhone SE can act as a media player but I'd like a baby binnacle / plug panel with the necessary sockets, including one to charge the phone I'm using, to sit neatly on the top of the dashboard. Nearst I can find is the USB & iPhone connection panel out of an L322 which is still short one connector and needs neat box.

Does anyone know of anything more appropriate?

The instructions say to sit the GPS antenna on either dashboard or parcel shelf on top of the supplied metal plate that, presumably, acts as a ground plane. Which is likely to be best or won't it matter? I guess the DAB aerial sticks to the screen and the wire tucks inside the A-post trim. Head lining has to be done so routing the reversing camera connections over that shouldn't be a problem.

Attenuate the audio outputs or bypass the door amplifiers? I suppose whilst I'm in the doors giving the locks et al their 10 year service & clean tip I could change the speakers but is it really worth it given my 70 year old, never wonderful, hearing.

Clive

Aloha,
My PC that runs RAVE in the shed is on loan......
Does anyone have a handy list of the (7, I believe) wires on the RH 2 plugs on the controller that need to have B+ and earth connected
to enable testing of the unit on the bench?
I have a couple of plugs to use for the test rig.
Going to overhaul 5 HVAC controllers and it would be very nice to be able to check out bulbs and display on the bench.

Hi Guys, on very hot days here in Australia 32-38C I've noticed my front wings and steel paneling around the radiator get very hot from the radiator and engine bay temps. The radiator top is almost too hot to touch and also the top hose is quite firm but not bulging. The car runs at 93C max stationary from NanoCom, and 87degC driving in ambients of 32degC plus which seems pretty good. I've replaced the viscous fan and the thermostat (I added a 6mm hole), the water pump is fairly new and not weeping. The car doesn't use or lose coolant either and the degas lines flow properly and the heater matrix get hot. So I'm trying to find out if this is normal for a P38 or if I have an issue? I'll have to do a combustion gas test but wondering if I could have a blocked rad - my rad has been replaced but is aluminium OE style. Is there a high flow type that might fix this?

Got the following codes on my 2001 P38 4.6.
P0154, P1300, P0308, P0306, P0161, P0159 AND P0158.
I’ve read the codes etc but looking for guidance as to what could possibly cause these to come on at same time. All were able to be cleared.
Plugs and leads were changed 14,000 miles ago and she has had no issues since except for the occasional P0440.
Thanks in advance

While looking something else up on the MoT testers manual, I came across this section

5.3.5. Gas, air and fluid suspension

Defect Category

(a) A gas, air or fluid suspension system inoperative - Dangerous

(b) A gas, air or fluid suspension system component damaged, modified or deteriorated in a way that:
(i) it would adversely affect the functioning of the system - Major
(ii) its function is seriously affected - Dangerous

(c) An obvious leak from any part of the system - Major

That suggests to me that a P38 on coil springs should be an automatic fail under 5.3.5 (b)(i)