Hello

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/how-to-safely-have-a-p38-locked-with-battery-disconnected.179857/
From above site.
marty_nz 2015

“The way I disconnect the battery and secure the vehicle - and what I advise others to do on their P38s is to disconnect the battery with the vehicle UNLOCKED,

And then manually close the doors/lock them with the sill locking buttons, and then manually lock the drivers door with the key.”

YES I DID THAT it worked the vehicle was all locked.
A few days later came back used key in door to unlock and went on with the mechanical job. I had to lock and unlock several times with the key in door during the job.

Work finished ….. opened the door, and window, and kept them open while I opened the bonnet and reconnected the battery.

When I have done this in the past there was the sound of the doors locking.
Drivers door still open but no sound this time, car not locked.

Put key in ignition all okay, turned key and motor started so no problems there.

Tried to sync key fob as I have done in the past ….no flashing red light this time …. no sync.
Tried the spare key same no sync.
Their batteries were new 8 months ago and both have been operating perfectly.

I have been using the car for a week now using key in door to lock/unlock.
All doors lock/unlock using the key except the passenger door…. it hasn’t worked electrically since I purchased the car 12 months ago.
The starting and running of the motor is not a problem.
Reset the windows, mirrors can be moved and self dipping function disabled okay.
Suspension all working.

Has anybody got any ideas on how I can get the key fobs to sync so the lock/unlock buttons are operational?

Thanks in advance
Andrew

I have a leak in the exhaust pipe just forward of the centre silencer flange so the pipe will have to be dropped to weld it up.

Only potential problem I can see is getting the flange nuts off without snapping the studs. Pretty certain mine have never been off since the car was made. Obviously new nuts needed but should the studs be changed too.

Whats the approved method for removal without potentially creating major league problems. Drilling out snapped studs in-situ, especially upside down, is not on the list of Clives 6 million favourite things to do! Drilling out clean and in line isn't silly hard. Especially if proper drill guide is made first. But it's the principle of the thing. Last exhaust I dropped out it situ had brass nuts on the flange side! Not gonna admit how many years ago, or what vehicle, that was.

If heat is desirable I'm wondering whether one of the affordable induction current heaters is up for such jobs. I know the pro ones work very well indeed but are the £150 (ish) things off amazon et al up for it. £150 to avoid ages struggling and swearing under the car is worth it. £700 to £2,000 for low end of proper jobbies is not.

Really not a fan of waving a gas axe or similar open flame around near the engine bay.

Clive

I had the car out last week on a green laning day, did 160miles in total, drove 60miles there on normal a roads, no issues, and another 25ish miles of lanes. towards the end of the day the ABS fault appeared. It appeared on startup, not while driving.

This issue plagued me last winter, and something i noticed back then was it only ever appeared upon starting the engine. NEVER when driving. If you started the car without the fault, you'd be fine for hours. Usually if it appeared, a quick reset with nanocom and power cycle and you'd be fine. Occasionally it would stick around but would clear later. I should mention this is a Wabco D system with the black ECU.

I had a hunch there was something battery/power related, my battery was very weak/old/knackered. I was having starting issues at the same time. A short drive to get some juice in the battery then it would reset was my thinking... In the spring i swapped the battery and added a solar charger. After that, i've never seen the issue again until now.

The fault code itself is Front Right Sensor - Short to Another Sensor. It ALWAYS says it has occured 012 times.

If you check sensor voltages in the live data, all sensors are reading about 2.2v, including the front right.

So this time it seems worse. It appeared on that green lane, i reset it and it reappeared immediately on restarting the engine. Tried another few times on the way home, didnt get anywhere. Left it until today as i had a dump run to do with the trailer. Popped out earlier, reset the code and sure enough it came right back. I left it running for 10minutes while i pumped up the tyre, and while i was waiting on the compressor i pulled the three connectors out of the ECU and checked them for corrosion, all looked fine. With everything plugged in, there was now a zillion fault codes as to be expected.

Cleared codes, drove it down the street, lights all went out. Great stuff. Quick loop of the block, parked back in the drive to hook up the trailer and when i restarted it the fault came back.

Has anyone seen anything like this before? I'm tempted to swap the battery again, with a brand new one this time, on the vague idea that maybe the poorer weather means the solar panel isnt doing much and this battery is also a bit tired... But i also dont want to waste money replacing a battery which seems to crank up the engine just fine, if its actually a faulty ABS ECU or something!

hi folks not p38 related but today I was sorting out the throttle body on MY10 discovery4 and while it was off looked in side and saw both manifolds have splits in them
looks like a change of them on the cards
would anyone know if it a pig of a job or they easy like the p38?

Hello,

So, my bonnet was intermittent but now, does not open when pulling the lever.

This is the kicker - the car will acknowledge the bonnet is open after pulling the lever, (will say BONNET OPEN when locking), and when I push the bonnet down, I hear a click.

What could this be?

Hey everyone,
I come from the armpit of the dark side, in other words a moderator over at the other place. Gilbertd recommended I join over here so after a bit of finagling here I am. I have a temperamental 2011 Range Rover Sport L320 3.0 TDV6, as such it’s what I mostly know since I tinker with it. A while back I had a 2000 P38 for around 8 years which was very up and down. Until recently I was working full time at an independent LR shop the last few years working on various LR’s, so I do have dirty hands. Now I’m kind of freelancing with another LR shop mostly doing electrical work and other projects. I am originally from So Cal, moved to Bristol, UK in 2018 and then Poznan, Poland in 2020 during the Covid nonsense. Hoping to get out of here in the near future, but have to see how it goes. Anyway, hope I can bring something to the forum.

I’m also the one who asked Frankie the filter part numbers for my car, it got them wrong, twice. It’s gotten just about everything asked of it wrong. Except when I asked it for a sweet tea recipe, it was actually pretty good.

Neighbour just bought P38 Diesel, compared to mine it is very sluggish,push the throttle and revs climb to 2500 then it starts to pull.
It has a Rimers tunning box fitted, Nanocom tell me fuel metering out of range. Could this box be causing the problem, how does it connect into the system all the wires are black and I have no paperwork for it.
Thanks Richard

Hey Gilbert,
When are gonna get us a Frankenstein ai for the Pub?
I have not laughed at a forum post from the dark side for a long time!
Thanks!!
On the other hand, be afraid, be VERY afraid..........
For those who don't lurk on the dark side, I am referring to this:

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/test-thread.371343/

Hi,
I have read some things about the failing plastic washer in the brake modulator and I think Richard also wrote about a clicking in the pedal being an early symtom.
I have a regular little click about in the middle of the brake travel and also when I sometimes brake (usually at slow speeds) the pedal feels like when the ABS is kicking in (fast series of feelable clicks in the pedal) even though there is no reason for the ABS to engage (tarmac road, slow braking)
Is that an early symtom of this issue ? Mine ist a 98 GEMS.
And what would be the remedy, I have read about a quite complicated repair, exchanginf the washer for a stainless steel one. Or complete modulator exchange with a used one from a later Model ? Is that possible or is that incompatible due to the different Traction control (2/4 Wheels) ?
greetings,
Max.

Hi folks,
Driving home this evening. All going fine, nothing in the display, when I heard 3 beeps. If there was anything in the dash display it was only there for a split second.

Stopped, left car for an hour or so and then was driven home in the car by my wife (I’d had eye relaxant drops put in and couldn’t). Got home, and as we arrived got the three beeps again, twice I think. This time I looked at the display and, just maybe, it was going through all the start-up series of warnings (low screen wash; window not set; etc).

Because I wasn’t driving I can’t say if the beep sequence did happen twice, or whether my wife had momentarily turned the key back on again - she can’t really say.

So could it be that there’s an intermittent fault at the back of the ignition switch (or somewhere else) that makes the car react as if it’s just been switched on? Meanwhile the engine keeps running and the car keeps on travelling down the road.

I think this is a new thing. It may have happened this morning on the way in, but I didn’t pay it much heed because everything kept on working. Now that it’s happened another 2 or 3 times on the same day I’m thinking something’s going on.

I had a previous incident with the central locking/immobiliser in a hospital car park drenched in radio signals, and there was a suggestion the ignition switch might have been a bit sticky. I have a little tin of graphite lock lube and I’ll drop a squirt into the switch. Is this likely to be all that’s wrong, or do those ‘symptoms’ suggest something uglier is rearing its head?

Ta.

The Duchess has decided to start making a banging noise. Not a mechanical one, but when she's parked the speakers thump loudly, even with the key out. This is has got so bad I can hear it in the house and it has flattened the battery!

What is the remedy? In the meantime, knowing which fuse(s) to pull would be really helpful!!

Hi folks,
A while ago, when I had my rear bumper off I remember seeing that the metal frame looked really terrible and crispy. The bits where the bumper actually hangs onto the chassis at the back were definitely wafer-thin and “touch and go”. I’ve been paranoid ever since that any slight tap and the whole thing will crash to the ground. Living on borrowed time is how I see it, so I’ve been keeping my eyes open.

A week or so ago I saw a replacement listed on eBay, by a seller I’ve used before, with the plastic described as ‘wavy’ but the steel in very good condition so I ordered that. He wasn’t lying - apart from a bit of light surface rust, the metal is very solid indeed.

This afternoon I persuaded the metal and plastic to part company. I wasn’t too brutal, as I was trying to learn/figure out how I would do the same with my own one so as to combine the good metal from the eBay one, with the good plastic from mine, so I was trying to get the plastic cover off ‘gently’. Predictably the 4 brass nutserts bonded into the plastic at the sides of the bumper (under the body colour trim) just spun around, so I had to get a hacksaw blade in there and saw through the bolts.

Then I had to prise the plastic and steel apart so that I could get the same hacksaw blade in between metal and plastic to cut through the adhesive/bonding agent used. Finally a pry bar and some wooden wedges to ease plastic and metal apart and the job was done - plastic in useable condition had I wanted to; metal in good enough nick that with a bit of care and treatment it would probably see me out. Galvanising would maybe be over the top, but possibly worth thinking about if I could add other stuff to make up the minimum weight. I just don’t know enough about how the galv would cope in that sort of location.

Anyway it’ll be a couple of months before I have the RR into the garage to tackle the long-ish list of jobs I’d like to tackle, so I thought I’d ask if anyone else had dealt with this, and whether there were any specific things to do/avoid or workarounds that I might need.

(For example, for the 4 brass nutserts where the metal side panels are bolted to the plastic - under the body coloured trim -I can’t see any reason why I wouldn’t just drill straight through these and then use a stainless countersunk head machine screw and a nyloc nut in this location. Or a socket head cap screw with a low profile head. I know what I mean, even if I have it described it too well!)

But any advice / hints very gratefully received. Thanks.

I've had no book symbol up for a month or two now after changing the pot on the rhs blend. Last two mornings have flagged the book up after the self test and it defaults to screen only which makes sense from a safety point I guess, I cannot change air direction.
However, after the brief journey to work and starting her up again a few hours later when coming home....no book symbol and everything is well again.
Why would a fault exist first start every morning but not on the 2nd ,3rd,4th etc of that day? Ambient temp is fairly constant so heater box 'tightness' being my first thought, seems unlikely.

Sorry this isn't Rangerover related.

I saw Miles (Morat) yesterday and mentioned I might be posting another video of my boat on LPGforum, he suggested I post the link on this forum too.

My daughter driving the boat last weekend https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGK1YDzSpVQ

Never used to do this but now it does, engine not running, checking blend motors with the nano and that fan runs continuously while I'm plugged in.
Weird. It's not the ac fan. No faults logged, in fact, for the first time in 3 yrs ownership EVERYTHING works as it should lol! Just curious as it's never done it before.

I've had a recurring problem for years where I get icy water dribbling into the passenger footwell (RHD). Condensation accumulates on the A/C evaporator & is collected by a drip tray. This drip tray has a spigot at each end to which a rubber drain is attached thence disappearing through the floor to drip out on the road. At leasts that's the theory. These drains have a tendency to get blocked with leaves & crud from the roads. Normally you wriggle under the car & poke a screwdriver or piece of stiff wire into the bottom of the drain & get rewarded with a wet sleeve as the drain is cleared. I previously cleared the drains but with the humid & very hot weather we have been having recently it's started dripping icy water again.

I removed the bits of trim on either side so I could see to disconnect the rubber drain tubes that attach to the spigots at the bottom of the drip tray. I didn't have any suitable wire so was very grateful to my wife who suggested using some of that wire that is normally used to hang net curtains. She even found some in the French DIY store that we visited. The spring wire is perfect as it's flexible but stiff enough to easily push down through the drain tube until it was visible under the car. I hardly needed to scrabble under the car to confirm the drain was patent.

The rubber tube that connects to the spigot is corrugated & I it looks like both tubes have a hole in them but on the upper surface so probably not responsible for the icy water in the footwell. It only happens on the hottest most humid days when the A/C is working hard & presumably lots of condensation is collecting on the evaporator. It's possible that the rubber tubes had been kinked so impeding water flow which in turn means the water backs up in the drip tray & then spills over into the heater box. I have reattached them & as far as I can see they are not kinked so any water from the drip tray should run freely out down through the drains.

I will see how I get on now that I know for sure that the drains are clear & that the rubber tubes reattached to the spigots so there should be clear flow. The problem is that as it's only on the hottest most humid days when the A/C is working hard that the problem occurs the rest of the time I have no idea whether I have fixed the problem or whether it's just not hot &/or humid enough that sufficient condensation collects on the evaporator to start dripping into the cabin.

I would be grateful for any suggestions.

At least I think that's what the nano said. Right hand blend motor on a friends 38 btw, forced it with nano and the percentages don't alter but fine testing the left hand blend at all percentages. We can hear the motor working though on both. Removing it and testing the motor with a 9v battery and all is good, no gears stripped either.
The board looks good too and as the nano doesn't give a potometer fault I'm assuming that is good. The cable going to the multiplug on the back of the hvac looks perfect too. He does have a spare set of unknown motors complete off a scrapper which we will fit later today(just the one, cut, solder, shrink wrap). Hopefully that will fix it and get the book off unless there is something we have overlooked! We are both a bit green on 38s but learning slowly lol!

Just had a Disco with Thor engine here, modified for off road use and the owner says he's won a few competitions with it. LPG converted (Prins) and was running slightly better on LPG than on petrol but on either fuel it was idling rough (as though it had a big cam in it), though the owner said he'd rebuilt the engine and it only has a standard cam. The two OBD error codes pointed to both front lambda sensors failed and lambda readings for both banks were full lean but I found when I blipped the throttle the lambda readings momentarily went rich as they should, which pointed to maybe the the lambda sensors (at least signal) showing actual mixture so the mixture actually lean. It was looking as though 2 failed lambda sensor heaters were causing the rough idle but when I unplugged the MAF and restarted the engine it ran perfectly, correct mixture on both banks and lambda readings flicking like they should.. It runs a lot better with the MAF unplugged but I warned the owner it might refuse to start, or start then refuse to run, or if it runs OK at light engine loads it might still not run OK under heavier loads. I asked him if the ECU had been modified, he said not. He's going to fit a new MAF, see how it runs with that fitted and maybe new lambda probes if it runs better with the new MAF but codes pointing to lambda's still reoccur.

Any other thoughts on it running better with the Maf unplugged?

As usual when I see a Disco / Rangerover I pointed the owner to this forum

The other day my RR failed its MOT due to one of the rear pads (left outer) being worn down to 1.5mm...all the others were 7/8mm. I completely re-did the rear brakes, changed the discs, replaced the pads, and cleaned the whole lot up. The only other thing i found is that one of the right hand carrier guide pins was fairly well seized... So what do we think happened? does all the pressure go to the LH rear because the circuit senses that the RH is seized. Why would only one pad - the LH outer be worn so badly, while the LH inner ie piston side was hardly worn at all ?

Quick question - are any of the aftermarket suspension height sensors 'any good'? Recommendations?