Feeds the switch illumination on the hvac buttons? Asking for a friend.
Ta.

I'm just completing a minor restoration on my 30th Anniversary before putting her up for sale. She is great condition, sensible / low owners and mileage but sadly missing her rear "30th Anniversary Edition" boot badge. If anyone has one lying around please let me know.

Hello all,

I finally have time on my hands again. I have sad and good news. Sad news (if anyone didn't know) is that Dave3d passed away, and I bought his P38 from his lovely wife. EAS block now refurbished, pump to follow once the parts arrive. It has the Arnott bags and is definitely stiffer then the OEM Dunlops. Strange thing is that the EKA lockout can't be cleared via the Nanocom, only by the key in the door. Even though the Nanocom says it's cleared the lockout.

Good news is my eldest son now has been passed my old P38 and it now lives in Yeovil, he's very pleased with it so far.

Both of these cars have the HP24 V8 gearbox and uprated/matching torque converters from Dave Ashcroft's, and chipped engines.

Until recently, as long as the battery back up did not bother me I left well alone... Now the bbus ( on my Defender) is disturbing my alarm system, so I either need to disconnect permanently, or replace. But the part is completely out of stock... Any bright ideas? Not sure if the p38 one is exactly the same, but probably the p38 one needs replacing too

hi folks my L320 4.2 V8 2006 has got a ACE leak on the rear has anyone done a removal of the pipes if so what is the best way about doing the job

Aloha,
I have been doing battle with EAS gremlins.
Rt front would randomly go down sometimes in 15 min, sometimes not at all. For days.
Figured it as time to rebuild the valve block, so I got the kit and pulled one from my shelf, and did a clean rebuild.
Same issue. Exactly.
I had already done the soapy water test on the bag, but as I had a good spare, I replaced it.
Found that the old one, when inflated and soaped on the bench was a sieve!
Well, good. Job done. Not!
This one went down as well.
Grabbed my other spare front bag and Tested at 50 PSI for 4 days and no leaks on the bench.
Put it in. Same issue.
Had to go see the folks so did a 2500 mile round trip down south.
Problem persisted, but made the trip just fine.
As these were 14 year old Arnotts Gen II I contacted them and they sent me a pair of gen III bags under warranty as they no
longer make Gen II. They honored the fact that when I bought them in 2010, the warranty was unconditional.
Nice new bags for the front. Billet aluminum instead of plastic for the base. FREE!
Put them on, and guess what? Same issue.
SO, I changed the solenoid valve for the RT front bag for another good spare. Problem solved!
New issue, and the real reason for the post is that when the compressor shuts off, and I stop the engine, I hear a LOT of air hissing from the exhaust silencer. Not from the bags, from the tank. Let it sit overnight and it stayed up, but tank was empty.
Swapped the diaphragm valve and same issue.
Gotta be coming from the diaphragm I guess, but cannot see how it is getting there with the system off. Disc looked fine when I did
the rebuild, and it was not leaking like this prior to my trip
I have been staring at Paul P-38's diagrams for a while and am now cross eyed.
Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Going to pull out the block again and replace the diaphragm, I guess.

I have not done this for decades and not on a P38, but what do i need to be able to do some brake lines? a flaring tool (which flare type do we need to use?), some cunifer (size?) some ends (thread/size?) a pipe bending spring one of those proper pipe bender things maybe ? All links/ recommendations welcome... thanks in advance

Rob

A quick question on how much members are being charged 'per hour' if/when they require garage services (and from independents)....

Whilst I realise many/most of us are (serious) do-it-yourselfers when it comes to our 'classic' vehicle maintainence I wonder what you have been quoted in garages....

I ask because -of late- whenever I ask one (typically about a 'ramp job' for something fairly basic that may take 20-30 minutes) I am now routinely quoted £150-£200... and even when I supply the parts.

Yes. I also know that my question is one of those of the 'how-long-is-a-piece-of-string' type but I would be interested in any/all observations on this issue !

hi folks,
does anyone have a source for these irritating little gadgets please? Ideally in beige/lightstone.
The ones holding the subwoofer panel in place in the Duchess have given up the ghost and no longer grip. I ordered some at about 3.50 for 5 and then ended up with 10 quid postage! I hope they fit :D

Cheers,
Morat

I'll start with an apology. Two spam posts were on here for almost 24 hours before I saw them and deleted them, but I've been a bit busy.

Some of you will have met Dina, my partner, when we had the grand headlining replacement session at Marty's workshop. Well, she isn't my partner any longer as she finally made an honest man of me yesterday. We are well known in the village, Stilton where the cheese originated, as the couple with the Range Rovers and 3 small hairy dogs (miniature long hair dachshunds). So, the dogs were bought to the venue for photographs and we displayed the his and hers cars outside.

It's almost certainly the first time in my life I've polished 2 cars in one day (in fact, I worked it out, it's only the 4th time mine has been polished in the near 15 years I've owned it).

Both front hubs recently changed due to bearing wear.
ABS sensors didn't make it out alive.
However, Front Right threw a wobbly a few miles later.
Replaced under warranty at no charge.
However, the problem has come back again, again not present for garage test drive.

Nanocom says:
12-05 FRONT RIGHT SENSOR SHORT TO ANOTHER 012 TIMES

We have glove box out and WABCO available for testing of the unit, or multimeter and oscilloscope readings from the plug pins. Though the latter would presumably require some messing about to supply power?

All pins in the unit are shiny and free of green or blue deposits.

Anyone actually tried this yet ? (Happy to continue to use RAVE with Windows 7 but I am sure some on here may have already done this) ?

PS: Just googling it led me to " RAVE: Reproducible Analysis and Visualization of intracranial Electroencephalography ".. Hmmmm....

PPS: BTW I just reached a seminal point with Windows 10 when I had enough of all their forced 'Updates'
and unrequested changes, (including to various other non-M/S Apps that they did not 'lke' either...)

While I'm feeling RangeRovery....
Does anyone have any suggestions for drop in (or as close as possible) replacements for the twin rear subs? Mine now have the full "free floating cone" mod, so they're pretty useless. If there is anything that can be made to fit and will sound OK, I'm all ears (omg no)

Looking for some pointers.

The battery in the car isn't the healthiest, so sometimes can crank a bit slowly. However I've noticed a bit of a pattern forming where it really struggles to start when hot.

For instance today it fired up perfectly happily from cold, drove for an hour and stopped at a park and ride in town. Offloaded the kid, got back in to start it and got one crank and everything dimmed out... Tried again and it started.

On the way home, fired right up from cold, 30mins of traffic to the same park and ride, and again same thing. One or two very slow cranks with every thing dimmed out. This time I tried 3 times and still it wouldn't start. Grabbed my jump box from the boot and attached that and got one slow crank then a few much faster cranks and it fired up.

What I'm not sure is if the engines simply harder to turn when hot, and my battery is just not upto it, or if maybe the starter itself gets unhappy when it's hot?!

I have a Range Rover P38 and I am having trouble with my windscreen constantly fogging up, even when I use the defroster. Any tips or tricks on how to prevent this from happening?",

Hi fellas, this is a strange one, but I hope since we are in a P38RR forum we are not entirely normal and someone can chime in and give me some ideas or support.
I will try to be succint ...
I have an old-timer project, a 280ZX which I sadly came to the conclusion it will never materialized as a restauration during my lifetime.
I've given up and found a brother in arms willing to take it up, but he balked at the cracked windscreen and asked me to deal with it and then get to discuss business.
After long searches, I've sourced in Cardiff (CF32TX) a windscreen (aftermarket, but is new!), a practically unicorn part as you can imagine.

Problem is the windscreen is not packed, and seller is not taking the responsibility to pack it for transport, nor willing to organize shipping. I could pay it online no problem, though.

Now my forwarder (warehouse is in Kent) is willing to solve both issues, and pack the screen to come to me in Bulgaria, but wants an inordinate amount of money for the in-UK transport, like 2GBP per mile (each way). They were honest enough to suggest I look for an alternative locally, and they can deal with the international part.
I have no idea how much a courier pickup would cost, even less if we talk about something bulky and fragile as an automotive windscreen.

I know it might be a shot in the dark, but is there anyone that travels that route and would be willing to take this on, dealing with the seller as well?
Obviously I will compensate adequatelly .... if this is somewhat possible, my forwarder can take care of the rest from Kent onwards.
Is not an urgent or big rush, but if it can happen, the sooner the better, to liberate myself and move on ....

Thanks!!!

I took the Duchess to have nice bath before her MOT and one of the guys cleaning her broke the passenger sidestep. The front outrigger was rusted. What are the options here? I don't really use the sidesteps - but I don't want to leave lots of nasty holes. Are replacement brackets available? Do I need to find someone to fab one up - or can I just rip them all off?
Recommendations please!

Occasionally the old girl seems to "cough" or splutter when under light load in any gear but it's very prevalent in 4th as the entire car shunts back and forth as it misfires.

idles buttery smooth.

Under hard acceleration its fine..

Nanocom has found these faults.

cheers.

Whenever the tie rod or any ball joints are replaced, the alignment will need to be set and that is where you may need to throw yourself at the mercy of a professional.

The steering on the recently bought red car didn't feel right and I decided it felt like it had too much toe out. The self centring was vague and it wouldn't stay in a straight line with hands off the steering, it would pull to one side of the other. Took it into a place I've used before and told them they didn't need to worry about the steering wheel alignment as I could do that myself, it was purely the adjustment of the tie rod that needed doing. Unfortunately they have a newer alignment system than they previously had and a technician who wasn't familiar with the steering box type system on the P38. Firstly he wanted to adjust the alignment on on the rear which, as I pointed out, will be correct unless I have a bent axle. Both wheels are going to be pointing the same way obviously. Once he had got his head around how it worked, he realised what he needed to do. Only to find the adjuster was rusted solid. After struggling with it for almost an hour, he gave up and told me that if I could get it freed off, I could bring it back and he could adjust it.

But, as I was about to leave, an older member of staff suggested an alternative method. If I was to use a laser tape measure and measure the distance between the rear and fronts rims of the front wheels that would tell me how much toe in or out I had. As it happens, I've got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Measurement-131ft-40M-Rechargeable-Pythagorean/dp/B0D7PYSRQT/ref=sr_1_22_sspa, so tried it. The front wheels should toe out by 0.6 - 1.8mm. Checked it and found they were toeing out by 4mm! Checked my car, which tracks perfectly, and found it appeared that the wheels had neither toe in or out, but the laser tape measure only goes down to a millimetre so I wasn't able to see if they really were parallel or slightly toeing out as they should but it gave me a target to aim for.

Freed off the adjuster (Plus Gas, heat and a 24" pair of Stilsons), took it right out, cleaned up and greased everything then started. By measuring the difference between the rear and front of the front wheels, I got it so the distance was the same, then gave the adjuster a 1/8th turn in to give it a bit of toe out. That gave me a difference of 1mm, smack in the middle of the setting.

A quick road test showed that the steering wheel wasn't central when going straight ahead. Checked the centre marks on the steering box and that wasn't centralised when steering straight ahead so adjusted the drag link. With the steering lock off and the wheel in the position where it was when going straight, as you adjust the drag link, the steering wheel will move so once it is straight, the job should be done. If the steering box is centralised but the wheel isn't, then it needs the steering wheel moving on the column so they are both central.

A proper road test showed that now the wheel is central when going straight ahead, it self centres properly when straightening up and drives in a straight line with hands off the wheel so that's another job ticked off the list.

My PAS lines have sprung a leak, thankfully only the return line, but the supply line doesnt look far behind, its extremely rusty. I've ordered a good used set off ebay as it appears getting new ones is near impossible now (especially for the supply line).

Is there any useful tips or tricks for fitting these? Am i going to have to pull out the fan and rad shroud? Or is it possible to get them out without?