Dear All, I've just collected a late rare 2001 Vogue SE from a deceased estate(yes Vogue SE). It is my plan to break it but if anyone wants to try and save it I'll offer it 'complete'. PLEASE read entire add before messaging. It has NO KEYS , been sitting for 5 years and I've never heard it run. It's black with cream leather and black wood. Please only make contact if you have a trailer, cash & asked your wife FIRST. The car is complete and original, circa 140k. To make life easier here are some answers to your questions. 1; It's broken, 2; No idea 3, Poor condition. £1500 NO OFFERS. Collection only from Lincolnshire. (,4.6 engine, factory cats, original radio, good black wood)
Hi guys,
Grovelling apologies are due. I've not been on here for ages, and contributed nothing, yet here I am asking for help.... On the plus side, the reason why I've not been on is that the car has been amazingly, consistently reliable for many months, and as I've been really busy at work I was happy just to keep on truckin'.
Today though... early morning appointment at local hospital. Jump in car at 6.45am, turn key, engine starts, drive to hospital car park. All good. I was a little early, so I sat in the car (turned off, but ignition key in switch) to look at my phone. After about 10 minutes or so, I got out, hit the lock button on the fob and... nothing. "Ignition key in" message was displaying even with the key in my hand. I didn't have time to muck about so I locked it with the key and got the big 'beeep'. My fault was clearly leaving the key in the ignition for that extra 10 minutes.... another lesson learned.
Came back to the car, and nothing had changed. "Ignition key in" message displaying, and if I tried to turn the engine on "engine disabled". I called the cavalry and got my wife to bring down some lock lubricant and the 2nd key. Gave the ignition barrel a squirt of lube, and jiggled the key a bit, and I 'think' that part of the problem is gone. However, the central locking still won't respond to either fob, and the engine won't start.
Fortunately our hospital car park no longer has a 'pay and display' so I'm not racking up parking charges, but I can't leave it there, so I'm looking for a solution.
There was a guy on here a while ago selling modified Engine ECUs to bypass the immobiliser. I bought one, and fitted it, but never got to the point of disconnecting the starter relay wires from the BECM. So at the moment, my plan A is to wait for it to get a little brighter and to stop raining and return to the car with a length of wire and some crimp terminals in the hope that once I take the BECM out of the circuit, the engine will start. That would - hopefully, fingers crossed - allow me to get the car home.
I do have a Nanocom, but I'm a very inexperience user. Would this help me at all - and would it even fire up with the engine disabled?
Then 'worst case scenario' - how do I get the vehicle transported home in this condition? I do have 'AA membership' - not sure if that will help, but failing that I can get a local recovery firm to come down once the car park empties. The gearbox is in 'park'. Would I need to get underneath and disconnect both prop shafts from the diffs?
Any advice is always gratefully received - but particularly grateful in this instance!
(year2000 4.0L Thor)
Ta
Donald
Did anyone successfully replace the cat section (gems) on the driveway? Local garage wants 200 quid...I assume the tricky bit is going to be supporting the gearbox and then pulling off the x member. I trust my impact wrench to get the manifold nuts off...spare studs on standby, and new lambda sensors
I have owned my first P38 here in Australia, a late model dark green 1998 P38 HSE for the past 3 years. Had 302,000 km on the clock. He's on the rough side. One previous owner had put him on coils and did a poor job of it. Then another reinstated air bags. His first owner, in an up market area of Sydney, had looked after him very well. Then several owners in the north east of state of NSW did some probably serious 4 x 4 driving in state forests.The chap I bought him off looked after him again, but he had lost his good looks. Broken interior plastic, bits missing and under dash in need of serious work. Air suspension system had all sorts of problems. Bumpers with holes and other exterior damage.
On the 300km trip home after purchase for Au$2,500 with 6 months registration/insurance the big fella went well and even my wife took to liking him. As we neared home she leaned forward and patted the dash saying " your a good lad Bernard". "Where did that come from" I asked as we are not people that name our cars.
She told me he reminded her of the character Bernard in the 1994 UK comedy " Common as Muck ". Maybe some of you may remember the series. So he has been Bernard ever since then.
Having experienced the ups and downs and joys of P38 ownership I started looking around for a red one that was in a much better condition. I found one 2 weeks ago.
A 1997 4.6 HSE only 2 owners great condition tan leather interior never had children in the back. No book symbol on the HEVAC. Some sun damage on the bonnet clear coat but not too bad. No damage to bumpers all looking very good. It drove well and changed gears nicely. Braked well. Air suspension responded to all commands. Engine a bit on the oily side but looked like tappet cover gaskets needed. But those 20 inch Sport wheels that the elderly owner thought looked "really cool" driving round The Gold Coast would have to go !!!! Its new also elderly (75) owner prefers 16 inch, particularly on our rough bitumen rural roads where we live.
So I parted leaving Au$7,000 behind. The approximate 400 km drive home had some problems that I have asked for help on in the forum. Petrol in the oil.
Andrew
2 x P38's One will have to be de registered
1 1998 300Tdi Defender 130 with self built camper/home on its back.
1 1974 Citroen Dyane 6. We are second owners and its on its 3rd time round the clock in miles.
1 1954 Citroen Big 15. Fully restored, been in use for last 12 years
That's the fleet, no modern shares their space
Sorry about the length of the post just thought it would give the best overall view of the problem.
Just purchased lovely red 1997 4.6 HSE approximately 400 km away from home base here in Australia.
Checked oil level before leaving its previous owner, was on full mark.
200 km of cautious driving on moderately busy roads then stopped for the night.
After half an hour checked oil it was still just on the full mark.
Left early next morning very little traffic and after warming it up drove with a little bit more sprit.
Basically 100 km on I had to slow to a crawl for road works.
OIL LIGHT CAME ON. I was able to pull over safely in maybe 300 metres and switched off.
Bonnet up left it for 15 minutes then dipped the oil.
OVERFULL by about 10 mm still oil coloured not milky. Water level in the expansion tank was a little over its cold pointer.
Must be petrol in oil, thus diluting it, so pump could not maintain pressure at low revs.
Started motor, oil light on and clattering noise in top of motor.
Possibly valve / tappet area so very quickly shut motor down.
Seven hours later a tilt tray arrived from the breakdown assist organization I belong to.
I thought I had purchased a very well maintained two owner car. It looks good, but not serviced very regularly.
Put engine flush in oil. Drained it … bottom of bowl covered in balls of sludge.
New 20w 60 oil. Regular day time temps mid 30° c, 280,000 km on motor. My other P38 runs well on it.
300 ml Lifter/Tappet Fix & 300 ml MoS2 moly.di oil additive.
New filter.
Air temp sensor sprayed with MAF cleaner. New air cleaner element. Date on old one 2013.
MAF sensor and inside of its housing was black … took a lot of cleaner to get clean.
New fuel filter. You wouldn’t believe the muck that flushed back out of it.
New PCV valve … old one seized in housing took some getting out. 2 New associated hoses.
Sprayed contact cleaner on all the plug/sockets I could find in engine bay.
Fitted 2 new exhaust oxygen sensors.
Used Nanocom Evolution to reset Adaptive Values.
Started motor, on idle the top end noise not as bad. After 30 minutes on idle much quieter. Switched off.
In the morning put 200 ml oil in to bring up to full. Started it up, top end noise disappeared after a minute. Let it idle up to 68° c . Checked for fault codes. The only one that has ever showed up was
0183 ….. “Fuel temp sensor a circuit high input”. And it had now disappeared.
Took it for a drive, keeping revs down, 10 km all looking & sounding good.
Turned round, then 5 km short of home engine running rough. Only way to get home was to travel slowly & blip throttle. Possibly to use up excess petrol?? Slow speed into driveway oil light came on. In to garage motor off.
Checked oil level 15 minutes later, YES it was 5 mm over full !!
Next morning still over full but started easy. NO oil light on, idles well @ 650 rpm, warmed up to 70°c, can be reved to 2000 rpm all smooth & sounding good.
Injectors putting too much petrol into motor when driven ??
New Battery fully charged.
Any ideas where this 70 + year old should look for a solution.
Andrew
Bank 1
Pre cat O2 sensor (V) 0.02 to 2.7
Fuel trim long term % 0
Fuel trim short term % 1.25 to 5.0
Bank 2
Pre cat O2 sensor (V) 2.3 to 2.6
Fuel trim long term % 0
Fuel trim short term % - 1.25 to 2.5
Adaptive FMFR gm/s 0
Fuel Temp (C) - 255.00 ??
Fuel Level 1.46
O2 configuration 11
Pre Cat O2 Sensor Heater 1.13
Current throttle pos (V) 0.58
Stored throttle pos (V) 0.58
Adaptive air flow (kg/h) 0
Current air flow (kg/h) 21.59
Intake air temp (C) 15
Air flow sensor (V) 1.42
Secondry air status (on/of 4
Curr.run line position 31
Long term adaptive idle 43
Short term adaptive idle 43
Idle speed reference (rpm) 633
Idle air control valve (%) 74
Coolant temperature (C) 68
Battery (V) 16.00 HIGH ??
Aloha,
Over the years I have seen some nice and not so nice P-38s at wrecking yards.
The one thing the breakers don't know is the mileage of the Rangies.
If you happen to have a Nanocom and a suitable battery, you can not only determine the mileage, but also test the stereo / amps
and unlock the doors, tailgate, and lift hatch without destroying anything. And without the key.
I recently had amazing luck reading the mileage on an 99 that had the dashboard and all the electrics therin
removed by what appeared to be a dull shark! A total shambles.
As I wanted the rear diff, I wanted the mileage, so using an 18v Makita cordless tool battery and a set of leads and clips to fit,
I gave it a try. To my astonishment, it lit up and I was able to read the information.
Just clip an 12-18v battery to the battery leads and fingers crossed, it will play!
I have tracked down an noise I have been hearing lately to the rear axle.
Upon draining the oil from the rear diff, I found it to be the color and consistency of milk chocolate pudding.
Not a good look for gear oil. Obviously water got in there, which is a real mystery to me as I have not been wading at all
since the last time i serviced the rear end. Vent tube is in place and routed properly as well
Be that as it may, I believe the diff to be stuffed!
I was able to get a decent used diff from the local breakers with 174k miles on it.
Rather than just drop it in, I was planning to replace the outer bearings as well since they share the nice wet lube oil......
Question is, How are the bearings best removed? Rave does not seem to get into the actual rear axle other than R&R diff assy.
Are they as difficult to press in and out as the fronts?
Any hints and tricks for doing this greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Tom
So, what's the best lubricant for the O-rings in the EAS valve block please?
I've got the Vitron ones from X8R and they recommend Vaseline or di-electric grease.
I do have Vaseline, I also have some Silicon grease (from Carbusonic) which I think I used last time. A quick google for di-electric grease comes back with Silicon grease, am I OK to use this stuff on Vitron?
I have a Clarion Diversity radio with a GOOD SCREEN, but sadly no code.... I used to use Clarion Services UK to service, repair and replace bulbs but it looks like they no longer exist. Is there another company out there that can do work on these radios, especially finding codes? Many thanks
Found out today that 4.0 literally is ulez compliant yet 4.6 isn't So how's that then Should mean 4.0 will be worth more --- as far as p38s go anyway
Does anyone have a P38 that they are scrapping? I’m looking for the front left foglamp, including the electrical wire and plug? Ideally I only need the wiring, plug and bulb holder as my lens is perfect.
Send me a message if you have one. Located in CT.
James
Feeds the switch illumination on the hvac buttons? Asking for a friend.
Ta.
I'm just completing a minor restoration on my 30th Anniversary before putting her up for sale. She is great condition, sensible / low owners and mileage but sadly missing her rear "30th Anniversary Edition" boot badge. If anyone has one lying around please let me know.
Hello all,
I finally have time on my hands again. I have sad and good news. Sad news (if anyone didn't know) is that Dave3d passed away, and I bought his P38 from his lovely wife. EAS block now refurbished, pump to follow once the parts arrive. It has the Arnott bags and is definitely stiffer then the OEM Dunlops. Strange thing is that the EKA lockout can't be cleared via the Nanocom, only by the key in the door. Even though the Nanocom says it's cleared the lockout.
Good news is my eldest son now has been passed my old P38 and it now lives in Yeovil, he's very pleased with it so far.
Both of these cars have the HP24 V8 gearbox and uprated/matching torque converters from Dave Ashcroft's, and chipped engines.
Until recently, as long as the battery back up did not bother me I left well alone... Now the bbus ( on my Defender) is disturbing my alarm system, so I either need to disconnect permanently, or replace. But the part is completely out of stock... Any bright ideas? Not sure if the p38 one is exactly the same, but probably the p38 one needs replacing too
hi folks my L320 4.2 V8 2006 has got a ACE leak on the rear has anyone done a removal of the pipes if so what is the best way about doing the job
Aloha,
I have been doing battle with EAS gremlins.
Rt front would randomly go down sometimes in 15 min, sometimes not at all. For days.
Figured it as time to rebuild the valve block, so I got the kit and pulled one from my shelf, and did a clean rebuild.
Same issue. Exactly.
I had already done the soapy water test on the bag, but as I had a good spare, I replaced it.
Found that the old one, when inflated and soaped on the bench was a sieve!
Well, good. Job done. Not!
This one went down as well.
Grabbed my other spare front bag and Tested at 50 PSI for 4 days and no leaks on the bench.
Put it in. Same issue.
Had to go see the folks so did a 2500 mile round trip down south.
Problem persisted, but made the trip just fine.
As these were 14 year old Arnotts Gen II I contacted them and they sent me a pair of gen III bags under warranty as they no
longer make Gen II. They honored the fact that when I bought them in 2010, the warranty was unconditional.
Nice new bags for the front. Billet aluminum instead of plastic for the base. FREE!
Put them on, and guess what? Same issue.
SO, I changed the solenoid valve for the RT front bag for another good spare. Problem solved!
New issue, and the real reason for the post is that when the compressor shuts off, and I stop the engine, I hear a LOT of air hissing from the exhaust silencer. Not from the bags, from the tank. Let it sit overnight and it stayed up, but tank was empty.
Swapped the diaphragm valve and same issue.
Gotta be coming from the diaphragm I guess, but cannot see how it is getting there with the system off. Disc looked fine when I did
the rebuild, and it was not leaking like this prior to my trip
I have been staring at Paul P-38's diagrams for a while and am now cross eyed.
Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Going to pull out the block again and replace the diaphragm, I guess.
I have not done this for decades and not on a P38, but what do i need to be able to do some brake lines? a flaring tool (which flare type do we need to use?), some cunifer (size?) some ends (thread/size?) a pipe bending spring one of those proper pipe bender things maybe ? All links/ recommendations welcome... thanks in advance
Rob
A quick question on how much members are being charged 'per hour' if/when they require garage services (and from independents)....
Whilst I realise many/most of us are (serious) do-it-yourselfers when it comes to our 'classic' vehicle maintainence I wonder what you have been quoted in garages....
I ask because -of late- whenever I ask one (typically about a 'ramp job' for something fairly basic that may take 20-30 minutes) I am now routinely quoted £150-£200... and even when I supply the parts.
Yes. I also know that my question is one of those of the 'how-long-is-a-piece-of-string' type but I would be interested in any/all observations on this issue !
hi folks,
does anyone have a source for these irritating little gadgets please? Ideally in beige/lightstone.
The ones holding the subwoofer panel in place in the Duchess have given up the ghost and no longer grip. I ordered some at about 3.50 for 5 and then ended up with 10 quid postage! I hope they fit :D
Cheers,
Morat