I have a multitude of issues on my 2000 D2 (171k miles). The most pressing to me right now is the noise coming from the engine bay. it is a quite annoying squealing sound that is present when parked. It speeds up while driving but also gets quieter as I go faster. I have ruled out belt squeal by replacing the belt, and it just doesn't sound like a squealing belt. I was hoping it was just an idler pulley, but while listening to each component with a pvc tube, it seems to be coming from the power steering pump. The steering works flawlessly though. My other concern was that it may also be the oil pump. This coming spring I have plans on replacing the timing chain and head gaskets. along with relocating the coils. So I may just replace the oil pump while I'm in the vicinity. Could the power steering pump have an internal bearing going bad? and wouldn't that affect the function of the steering? Thanks for any help.
I have a Britpart Lynx code reader and Panasonic Toughbook computer on the shelf with half a decade of dust on top.
Purchased because her ladyship was running an L322 at the time and the Lynx could do those as standard as well as the P38.
I shall never use it again as I have a Nanocom now, juggling the computer whilst sitting in the car was too much of a PIA for Clives temper!
What's a fair price? Does anyone here want it or shall I just E-Bay / Facebook it? Toughbook batteries still charge but how long the computer will run for is anyones guess.
Clive
Would someone be kind enough to give me the approximate dimensions (ie length of the split section and length of the single section) for the black webbing spare wheel lifting strap ? ebay wants 25 pounds+, which seems silly for something so basic that i can fabricate in about 15 mins
** With its off-road capabilities and robust design, could the Range Rover P38 be the ultimate survival vehicle in a zombie apocalypse? What modifications would you make to ensure it handles hordes, rough terrain, and limited fuel supplies? Let’s debate its strengths and weaknesses in a post-apocalyptic world!
Hi fellow P38 community.
I have an unusual issue with my relatively new to me UK 2000 4.6 Vogue, which I can't find anyone else has experience on this forum or the other inferior ones!
It's my second rodeo with a P38, having previously owned a 1999 DSE, so have good experience with them.
I have just bought a green dot receiver to attempt to prevent the BECM being woken up parked outside.
I removed my existing receiver with the car unlocked but key out of the ignition and connected the green dot receiver, including the aerial (which I usually have disconnected).
Once fitted, I went to start the car and was presented with the classic 'engine disabled press key' message. It doesn't however say 'enter code'.
If I then enter the EKA code, the engine can then be started on the key. However the remote fob would not sync to the car. I tried the older method of putting the key in the door and pressing the button whilst turning etc., but no success.
I then removed the green dot receiver and refitted the existing receiver. 'Engine disabled press key' was again presented, but on entering the EKA code and starting the engine, the remote fob would then unlock and lock the car.
Repeating the process again for the green dot receiver, same problem. No remote fob.
Finally refitted the existing receiver, entered EKA code, engine runs and vehicle locks on remote fob. Leaving it that way for now.
I suppose this presents me with three questions:
1) Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the green dot receiver would not sync the remote fob and yet the existing receiver does? The seller of the 4th gen is genuine, even taking photos of the inside to prove, and is adament it worked on the car he was breaking and even tested it on his own car.
2) Does anyone know why I have to enter the EKA code when swapping between the receivers? Surely it should be plug and play? Do I need a Nanocom to reset RF memory?
3) If the RF receiver is removed entirely, should the car ask for the EKA code every time it is locked/unlocked? If I drive to the shops, lock the car on the key, unlock again 10 minutes later, it wants the EKA code. This doesn't seem right to me.
Thanks in advance!
That's up to date with the current options in 2025?
I know marty was the man but no longer able because of work I believe.
There was a guy on hear who claimed to make or made a printed adaptor to take readily available micro switches but went awol .
I've seen a guy called rezremaps based in Portugal iirc, anybody used him?
I haven't really got an issue at the moment just an occasional sticky switch for the interior light drivers side and a non functioning same switch passenger side .
I'm not sure if the long topic title will be fully readable on forum users devices so I'll repeat it here...
Which is better in snow, a random hatchback with 4x4 on summer tyres or the 2wd version of the same car on winter tyres?
This always comes up on Elgrand forum whenever there's a bit of snow. I have the 4x4 version(s) and reckon they're better in snow on random tyres than the 2wd version on winter tyres but others disagree.
wishing all a Merry Christmas and a happy new years to everyone, lets hope this one is better than the last year, too much unrest around the world, hopefully it will all stop soon.
Dear All, I've just collected a late rare 2001 Vogue SE from a deceased estate(yes Vogue SE). It is my plan to break it but if anyone wants to try and save it I'll offer it 'complete'. PLEASE read entire add before messaging. It has NO KEYS , been sitting for 5 years and I've never heard it run. It's black with cream leather and black wood. Please only make contact if you have a trailer, cash & asked your wife FIRST. The car is complete and original, circa 140k. To make life easier here are some answers to your questions. 1; It's broken, 2; No idea 3, Poor condition. £1500 NO OFFERS. Collection only from Lincolnshire. (,4.6 engine, factory cats, original radio, good black wood)
Hi guys,
Grovelling apologies are due. I've not been on here for ages, and contributed nothing, yet here I am asking for help.... On the plus side, the reason why I've not been on is that the car has been amazingly, consistently reliable for many months, and as I've been really busy at work I was happy just to keep on truckin'.
Today though... early morning appointment at local hospital. Jump in car at 6.45am, turn key, engine starts, drive to hospital car park. All good. I was a little early, so I sat in the car (turned off, but ignition key in switch) to look at my phone. After about 10 minutes or so, I got out, hit the lock button on the fob and... nothing. "Ignition key in" message was displaying even with the key in my hand. I didn't have time to muck about so I locked it with the key and got the big 'beeep'. My fault was clearly leaving the key in the ignition for that extra 10 minutes.... another lesson learned.
Came back to the car, and nothing had changed. "Ignition key in" message displaying, and if I tried to turn the engine on "engine disabled". I called the cavalry and got my wife to bring down some lock lubricant and the 2nd key. Gave the ignition barrel a squirt of lube, and jiggled the key a bit, and I 'think' that part of the problem is gone. However, the central locking still won't respond to either fob, and the engine won't start.
Fortunately our hospital car park no longer has a 'pay and display' so I'm not racking up parking charges, but I can't leave it there, so I'm looking for a solution.
There was a guy on here a while ago selling modified Engine ECUs to bypass the immobiliser. I bought one, and fitted it, but never got to the point of disconnecting the starter relay wires from the BECM. So at the moment, my plan A is to wait for it to get a little brighter and to stop raining and return to the car with a length of wire and some crimp terminals in the hope that once I take the BECM out of the circuit, the engine will start. That would - hopefully, fingers crossed - allow me to get the car home.
I do have a Nanocom, but I'm a very inexperience user. Would this help me at all - and would it even fire up with the engine disabled?
Then 'worst case scenario' - how do I get the vehicle transported home in this condition? I do have 'AA membership' - not sure if that will help, but failing that I can get a local recovery firm to come down once the car park empties. The gearbox is in 'park'. Would I need to get underneath and disconnect both prop shafts from the diffs?
Any advice is always gratefully received - but particularly grateful in this instance!
(year2000 4.0L Thor)
Ta
Donald
Did anyone successfully replace the cat section (gems) on the driveway? Local garage wants 200 quid...I assume the tricky bit is going to be supporting the gearbox and then pulling off the x member. I trust my impact wrench to get the manifold nuts off...spare studs on standby, and new lambda sensors
I have owned my first P38 here in Australia, a late model dark green 1998 P38 HSE for the past 3 years. Had 302,000 km on the clock. He's on the rough side. One previous owner had put him on coils and did a poor job of it. Then another reinstated air bags. His first owner, in an up market area of Sydney, had looked after him very well. Then several owners in the north east of state of NSW did some probably serious 4 x 4 driving in state forests.The chap I bought him off looked after him again, but he had lost his good looks. Broken interior plastic, bits missing and under dash in need of serious work. Air suspension system had all sorts of problems. Bumpers with holes and other exterior damage.
On the 300km trip home after purchase for Au$2,500 with 6 months registration/insurance the big fella went well and even my wife took to liking him. As we neared home she leaned forward and patted the dash saying " your a good lad Bernard". "Where did that come from" I asked as we are not people that name our cars.
She told me he reminded her of the character Bernard in the 1994 UK comedy " Common as Muck ". Maybe some of you may remember the series. So he has been Bernard ever since then.
Having experienced the ups and downs and joys of P38 ownership I started looking around for a red one that was in a much better condition. I found one 2 weeks ago.
A 1997 4.6 HSE only 2 owners great condition tan leather interior never had children in the back. No book symbol on the HEVAC. Some sun damage on the bonnet clear coat but not too bad. No damage to bumpers all looking very good. It drove well and changed gears nicely. Braked well. Air suspension responded to all commands. Engine a bit on the oily side but looked like tappet cover gaskets needed. But those 20 inch Sport wheels that the elderly owner thought looked "really cool" driving round The Gold Coast would have to go !!!! Its new also elderly (75) owner prefers 16 inch, particularly on our rough bitumen rural roads where we live.
So I parted leaving Au$7,000 behind. The approximate 400 km drive home had some problems that I have asked for help on in the forum. Petrol in the oil.
Andrew
2 x P38's One will have to be de registered
1 1998 300Tdi Defender 130 with self built camper/home on its back.
1 1974 Citroen Dyane 6. We are second owners and its on its 3rd time round the clock in miles.
1 1954 Citroen Big 15. Fully restored, been in use for last 12 years
That's the fleet, no modern shares their space
Sorry about the length of the post just thought it would give the best overall view of the problem.
Just purchased lovely red 1997 4.6 HSE approximately 400 km away from home base here in Australia.
Checked oil level before leaving its previous owner, was on full mark.
200 km of cautious driving on moderately busy roads then stopped for the night.
After half an hour checked oil it was still just on the full mark.
Left early next morning very little traffic and after warming it up drove with a little bit more sprit.
Basically 100 km on I had to slow to a crawl for road works.
OIL LIGHT CAME ON. I was able to pull over safely in maybe 300 metres and switched off.
Bonnet up left it for 15 minutes then dipped the oil.
OVERFULL by about 10 mm still oil coloured not milky. Water level in the expansion tank was a little over its cold pointer.
Must be petrol in oil, thus diluting it, so pump could not maintain pressure at low revs.
Started motor, oil light on and clattering noise in top of motor.
Possibly valve / tappet area so very quickly shut motor down.
Seven hours later a tilt tray arrived from the breakdown assist organization I belong to.
I thought I had purchased a very well maintained two owner car. It looks good, but not serviced very regularly.
Put engine flush in oil. Drained it … bottom of bowl covered in balls of sludge.
New 20w 60 oil. Regular day time temps mid 30° c, 280,000 km on motor. My other P38 runs well on it.
300 ml Lifter/Tappet Fix & 300 ml MoS2 moly.di oil additive.
New filter.
Air temp sensor sprayed with MAF cleaner. New air cleaner element. Date on old one 2013.
MAF sensor and inside of its housing was black … took a lot of cleaner to get clean.
New fuel filter. You wouldn’t believe the muck that flushed back out of it.
New PCV valve … old one seized in housing took some getting out. 2 New associated hoses.
Sprayed contact cleaner on all the plug/sockets I could find in engine bay.
Fitted 2 new exhaust oxygen sensors.
Used Nanocom Evolution to reset Adaptive Values.
Started motor, on idle the top end noise not as bad. After 30 minutes on idle much quieter. Switched off.
In the morning put 200 ml oil in to bring up to full. Started it up, top end noise disappeared after a minute. Let it idle up to 68° c . Checked for fault codes. The only one that has ever showed up was
0183 ….. “Fuel temp sensor a circuit high input”. And it had now disappeared.
Took it for a drive, keeping revs down, 10 km all looking & sounding good.
Turned round, then 5 km short of home engine running rough. Only way to get home was to travel slowly & blip throttle. Possibly to use up excess petrol?? Slow speed into driveway oil light came on. In to garage motor off.
Checked oil level 15 minutes later, YES it was 5 mm over full !!
Next morning still over full but started easy. NO oil light on, idles well @ 650 rpm, warmed up to 70°c, can be reved to 2000 rpm all smooth & sounding good.
Injectors putting too much petrol into motor when driven ??
New Battery fully charged.
Any ideas where this 70 + year old should look for a solution.
Andrew
Bank 1
Pre cat O2 sensor (V) 0.02 to 2.7
Fuel trim long term % 0
Fuel trim short term % 1.25 to 5.0
Bank 2
Pre cat O2 sensor (V) 2.3 to 2.6
Fuel trim long term % 0
Fuel trim short term % - 1.25 to 2.5
Adaptive FMFR gm/s 0
Fuel Temp (C) - 255.00 ??
Fuel Level 1.46
O2 configuration 11
Pre Cat O2 Sensor Heater 1.13
Current throttle pos (V) 0.58
Stored throttle pos (V) 0.58
Adaptive air flow (kg/h) 0
Current air flow (kg/h) 21.59
Intake air temp (C) 15
Air flow sensor (V) 1.42
Secondry air status (on/of 4
Curr.run line position 31
Long term adaptive idle 43
Short term adaptive idle 43
Idle speed reference (rpm) 633
Idle air control valve (%) 74
Coolant temperature (C) 68
Battery (V) 16.00 HIGH ??
Aloha,
Over the years I have seen some nice and not so nice P-38s at wrecking yards.
The one thing the breakers don't know is the mileage of the Rangies.
If you happen to have a Nanocom and a suitable battery, you can not only determine the mileage, but also test the stereo / amps
and unlock the doors, tailgate, and lift hatch without destroying anything. And without the key.
I recently had amazing luck reading the mileage on an 99 that had the dashboard and all the electrics therin
removed by what appeared to be a dull shark! A total shambles.
As I wanted the rear diff, I wanted the mileage, so using an 18v Makita cordless tool battery and a set of leads and clips to fit,
I gave it a try. To my astonishment, it lit up and I was able to read the information.
Just clip an 12-18v battery to the battery leads and fingers crossed, it will play!
I have tracked down an noise I have been hearing lately to the rear axle.
Upon draining the oil from the rear diff, I found it to be the color and consistency of milk chocolate pudding.
Not a good look for gear oil. Obviously water got in there, which is a real mystery to me as I have not been wading at all
since the last time i serviced the rear end. Vent tube is in place and routed properly as well
Be that as it may, I believe the diff to be stuffed!
I was able to get a decent used diff from the local breakers with 174k miles on it.
Rather than just drop it in, I was planning to replace the outer bearings as well since they share the nice wet lube oil......
Question is, How are the bearings best removed? Rave does not seem to get into the actual rear axle other than R&R diff assy.
Are they as difficult to press in and out as the fronts?
Any hints and tricks for doing this greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Tom
So, what's the best lubricant for the O-rings in the EAS valve block please?
I've got the Vitron ones from X8R and they recommend Vaseline or di-electric grease.
I do have Vaseline, I also have some Silicon grease (from Carbusonic) which I think I used last time. A quick google for di-electric grease comes back with Silicon grease, am I OK to use this stuff on Vitron?
I have a Clarion Diversity radio with a GOOD SCREEN, but sadly no code.... I used to use Clarion Services UK to service, repair and replace bulbs but it looks like they no longer exist. Is there another company out there that can do work on these radios, especially finding codes? Many thanks
Found out today that 4.0 literally is ulez compliant yet 4.6 isn't So how's that then Should mean 4.0 will be worth more --- as far as p38s go anyway
Does anyone have a P38 that they are scrapping? I’m looking for the front left foglamp, including the electrical wire and plug? Ideally I only need the wiring, plug and bulb holder as my lens is perfect.
Send me a message if you have one. Located in CT.
James
Feeds the switch illumination on the hvac buttons? Asking for a friend.
Ta.