Having fixed the issues on the RT side with distribution motor, I have turned my attention to the LH side distribution flap motor.
Nano shows error as "Motor short circuit to 12 volt positive"
The motor moves the flap just fine from recirc to fresh.
I have unplugged the motor and substituted in a blend motor with a good drive. Works fine. Same error.
I found the 2 wires at the HVAC head unit plug and snipped them and attached motor directly to the plug.
Same error.
I have swapped in 2 different known good, tested working head units and same error.
What am I missing? Nothing in that circuit is shorted to positive anywhere???!

Well, it's not so much an "Issue" as a real boneheaded maneuver.
I was replacing the diversion blend motor on the RH side of my LH drive '99. went well, and no more checkbook.
Having done the heater core on my 02, I was just breezing away putting everything back together, because I knew what I was about!
Replaced glove box fascia, having smoothly clipped in the cable release cassette........Without checking to be sure it was engaged....OOPs
Put in hinge fasteners and attempted to open the glovebox. Yea, Right! Latched, and the cable is not engaged.
So, what is the approved procedure for extricating myself from this??? Non destructively preferred.
I suppose it is the same as if the cable broke at the latch??
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Cheers!!

Edit...An hour later......
Had something to eat (And Drink!) and had another look.
I am guessing that if I use my super shallow ratcheting screwdriver, I will be able to remove at least the screws along the top of the
piece that holds the top in. Then attempt to either re seat the cassette or jigger the release with picks?
Fortunately, the aforementioned ratchet driver is in the tool kit on boat, so my only option tonight is another G&T.....
Any refinements cheerfully welcome!

Whilst diagnosing another issue with our 2001 P38 I noticed that the water hose than runs up and over the top of the alternator belt and into top of radiator had an unusual bugle to it. It was adding about 15% to the diameter of the rest of hose. I turned engine off and slowly opened the expansion tank cap and the affected area of hose decreased to its normal size. Engine cluster temp gauge rads 12 o’clock position and an infrared temp reader shows constant temp along hose from engine to top of radiator. This section of hose appears to be full of air, however, the small hose from top of radiator shows a constant flow of water when engine is hot.
I’m assuming that this is not a normal condition but am reluctant to change a hose just for the sake of changing a hose. I followed the manual for bleeding the air when I installed this hose two years ago.
Thoughts?

Starting (pardon the pun) to get intermittent start faults with 2001 P38. After driving a few times and a quick stop of say 5 minutes, when I turn key to start I get a “click, click, click” sound and no turnover. This will happen about another 4 or 5 times during start attempts and then the vehicle will start. Has happened 3 times over past 10 start attempts.
I’m leaning on replacing the starter. Vehicle has 151,000 miles and the original starter. Ground and positive cables all look good and power is getting to starter. Difficult to replicate the issue when underneath ……

Anyone have this problem in past?

Thanks in advance

I'm aware that one of the symptoms of the broken plastic washers in a GEMS ABS modulator is a 'clicky' brake pedal. Now for years my brake pedal squeaked whenever I applied the brakes but a few years ago that stopped and was replaced with a 'clicky' feel. As the braking performance hadn't changed, I put that down to a bit of wear on the pivot between the pedal and the pushrod rather than anything more serious.

Last weekend I drove to Amsterdam and back and experienced strange behaviour. I filled up with LPG in Belgium, then drove to Calais and the first time I applied the brakes the pedal went down much further than normal but coming off the pedal and re-applying the brakes, all was back to normal. Considering I'd just driven 120 miles at a steady 70-75mph without touching the brakes at all, this suggests to me that maybe the O rings inside the modulator are starting to weep slightly. I'm never going to be able to replicate the problem in this country (driving 20 miles without touching the brakes is considered a good run), so could just leave it but I think a modulator replacement is on the cards in the near future.

would anyone know or where I could download a workshop manual for a 2010 Discovery 4 tdv6 ?
like the rave one for the p38 as always handy to have one

Removed dash, and all associated, in order to replace both blower and blend motors.
Putting it all back together and I’ll be damned but I can’t find the 2 “plates” that are used at the bottom of glovebox to secure it to the vehicle. Can’t find the screws either. Got the upper three but lower set is missing. 2 days later I thought I’d ask here if anyone has a spare set hanging around in a jam jar somewhere that they would sell?
Thanks

Hi all, just joined up as looks like I am getting my old P38 back after 7 years in another owner hands. Going to be good to be back in a P38.

What is does, and where does it need to go?!?
I didn’t unplug it intensionally😆
https://imgur.com/gallery/j9zvZ2L
I hope this pic loads..

Cheers

Is the P38 truly a luxury SUV, or does its notorious reputation for electrical issues and reliability woes overshadow its appeal? What has your experience been with this vehicle, and do you believe the charm of owning a Range Rover outweighs the potential headaches?

Big red beast passed its MoT today with an advisory about replacing a distorted CV joint gaiter on offside.

Internet search says Britpart, Allmakes, GKN and Land Rover themselves all supply gaiters. Ruling out OEM as silly expensive what breed of replacement is of decent quality and likely to last? Word on the street is that many modern gaiters are sadly short lived due to material deficiencies. I suspect mine are original so they have had a decent innings.

The buggeration factor is such that it makes sense to do both side this year. If one has gone the other is unlikely to be far behind.

Also got an advisory calling for replacement of rear brake mudshield plate. Britpart are around £80 a pop and OEM twice that, which seems expensive for a simple plate. Is this something a breaker could supply economically, bearing in mind that a used part will almost certainly need sand blasting and painting or is breaking out the welder and sheet metal stocks the only feasible method of doing an inexpensive repair.

Clive

Considering the P38's reputation for both luxury and mechanical issues, can it truly be considered the best of both worlds for off-road enthusiasts? What are the most common pitfalls owners face, and do the benefits outweigh the costs in the long run?

Is the P38 becoming the next classic to invest in, or are we simply romanticizing a vehicle known for its quirks? As prices fluctuate and enthusiasts debate its reliability, what is the real future of the P38 in the collector's market?

Is the obsession with customizing and upgrading the Range Rover P38 diverting attention from its inherent mechanical flaws? What if the solution to enhancing its performance lies in addressing the existing weaknesses rather than adding more gadgets? Let's discuss the balance between modification and maintenance.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/236134692782

Always fancied one, never owned one but have worked on plenty on them. I might enjoy doing one up and picking the brains of those more clued up about them if the result is something worth more than I invested in terms of parts costs in it.

But I don't mind if this is news to others on forum who end up buying it.

Sometimes I need to crank for a while until it fires up and sometimes not. Read somewhere that if it starts instantly when pushing the throttle pedal a little then it could be the iacv. That works. Sine they are amazingly cheap I thought of ordering one for testing that theory.
Do they need some kind of process where they have to be calibrated with diagnostic software or is it a simple plug and play procedure ?

1999 HSK, Petrol
I had been having issues with a "FAULTY FUEL SENDER" indication on the message center display accompanied by fuel needle plunging
to zero and low fuel indicator light being illuminated.
This only happened after a fill up, so full tank. It got good when fuel was below 3/4 tank and was correct to empty.
I assumed that it was a sender with a worn track at the top end, so I swapped in a fully tested, known good fuel pump and sender assembly.
This seemed to fix the issue straight away! The old sender indeed had bad sections on the track at the top end, and about the 3/4 mark.
Bench testing with ohm meter confirmed this.
Now, however, I am getting a "FUEL GAUGE FAULT" indication on the message center, along with the needle plunge and low fuel light indication.
When ignition is switched on, the gauge reads correctly. after starting, and idling a few seconds it faults out. I noticed that a few times when it stayed accurate
for a bit, that pressing the brake would fault it out (Bad earth somewhere?)
Plugged in Nano, and looked at fuel sender values. Got a 36 and this dropped to a 26 when brake was pressed.........And went as low as 8.
I cannot seem to find my guide to the Nano that indicates what these readings should be?
Comparing to my 2002, the fuel sender readings on it stay solid at 69 when I press brake....(It has less fuel, so I would expect different number)
Any hot tips as to where to start looking? I have confirmed earths under the bonnet are good, so I suppose it's under the dash next.

A Quick question..

How much coolant can I expect to leak into the car when I change the o-rings?

Ta

Anyone in the USA have a front bumper from a 99-01 P38 in good condition that they would be willing to sell?

Hi All,

I need to change this motor, having already done the right hand side one, I am hoping this will be easier.
I am assuming the removing the glovebox and side panel will be enough to access? Will I need to cut any ducting this time??

Cheers