1999 HSK, Petrol
I had been having issues with a "FAULTY FUEL SENDER" indication on the message center display accompanied by fuel needle plunging
to zero and low fuel indicator light being illuminated.
This only happened after a fill up, so full tank. It got good when fuel was below 3/4 tank and was correct to empty.
I assumed that it was a sender with a worn track at the top end, so I swapped in a fully tested, known good fuel pump and sender assembly.
This seemed to fix the issue straight away! The old sender indeed had bad sections on the track at the top end, and about the 3/4 mark.
Bench testing with ohm meter confirmed this.
Now, however, I am getting a "FUEL GAUGE FAULT" indication on the message center, along with the needle plunge and low fuel light indication.
When ignition is switched on, the gauge reads correctly. after starting, and idling a few seconds it faults out. I noticed that a few times when it stayed accurate
for a bit, that pressing the brake would fault it out (Bad earth somewhere?)
Plugged in Nano, and looked at fuel sender values. Got a 36 and this dropped to a 26 when brake was pressed.........And went as low as 8.
I cannot seem to find my guide to the Nano that indicates what these readings should be?
Comparing to my 2002, the fuel sender readings on it stay solid at 69 when I press brake....(It has less fuel, so I would expect different number)
Any hot tips as to where to start looking? I have confirmed earths under the bonnet are good, so I suppose it's under the dash next.

A Quick question..

How much coolant can I expect to leak into the car when I change the o-rings?

Ta

Anyone in the USA have a front bumper from a 99-01 P38 in good condition that they would be willing to sell?

Hi All,

I need to change this motor, having already done the right hand side one, I am hoping this will be easier.
I am assuming the removing the glovebox and side panel will be enough to access? Will I need to cut any ducting this time??

Cheers

Hello folks,

Been a while, life has been busy but the trusty old girl is still soldiering on in daily use.

I have an electrical question. Where are the earth points? I would look on RAVE but my old computer is refusing to open it.

I am specifically after the earth point for the front windows. I have discovered that the earth point on the A posts behind the kick panel do not appear to be it as I can still hear the door outstation module clicking away with all the wires disconnected from this point.

The issue is the drivers window often refuses to move. It works fine if you hot wire it from a battery and I made up a set of jumper leads to try operating it from the passenger door and vice-versa, the result being that the drivers window worked fine from the passenger side and the passenger window stopped working. As the door outstations sound to be doing their job I am suspicious that the earth/ground may be poor.

Regards,

Smiler.

hi folks sorry not been on much as I've disposed of my L320 sport i had

sad to say I've gotten my self a Discovery 4 3liter TDV6
hopefully you chaps and chapesses can still help me with advise if needed

Hi,
Now that my EAS is working fine again (eternal thanks to Richard) on to the next problem.
There is no air coming from the vents at the windscreen (just very little in the middle).
Flap motor seems to work (replaced 2 years ago), because when I select up/down/facia the air flow does change. When I select up I can feel a little coming from the mioddle vents, but not much. When I select down it stops coming out the top vents, so flaps should be working. I believe that if the flap would be stuck the motor would go to fault and stop wiorking for a while.
I do have the book symbol on the HEVAC, but not always, but since my Nanocom broke I can´t read the faults. Could also be because the AC is not filled and/or the compressor is not engaging.
Could it be that the vent ducts to the top have somehow dislodged ? Is there a way to access them without dismantling the glove box, etc.? Would removing the instrument panel give me access ?
Thanks for any ideas or hints....

First time attempting this yesterday on a friends 2001. We've got the blocks and a guide I've read throughly.
Using nanocom we sent it to high but couldn't get the nsr block in so jacked it up on the towbar to enable us to do so.
We messed about for ages and were getting constant variables with the nsr sensor so replaced it with a new one.
In a nutshell, the engine had to run a lot to power the eas compressor, turning off the engine caused the nano to shut down and need rebooting so we left it running. Hot sweaty day, irritable but we got there in the end.

It's easy for me to jack up the front and rear of the car over my pit and insert the blocks, no scrabbling underneath needed, I have pit Jack's.
My query..
If I disable the compressor, let all the air out of the springs then it would be easy for us to lift the car up and down as necessary to fit the blocks, read the heights and store them without the engine running and us having to shout over the engine noise(diesel). What I'm not sure of is would the nano still see the heights and store them etc with just the ign on position 2 ?
Just thinking aloud!

Oh dear.

The intermittent Cheque Book light is starting to annoy me, now that the Duchess will start, drive and stay up on her bags. The light comes on for every cold start. If I drive for fifteen minutes or so and restart, the light goes out.
I've just been doing some fiddly poking with the Nanocom and saw a ton of faults, all of which cleared apart from this one
right hand blower motor stop mode fault (current)
The left hand blower works fine, the right hand one seems weak rather than stopped - but the fault is definitely there.
So, where do I start?
Fuse box?
Resistors?

Can anyone please link me to the right Valeo parts please? I have a feeling that something in a Peugot box would be better value than one with a Green Oval :D

Hi engine on P38 starts then instantly cuts off. I have tried the reset sequence with the key but that did not help. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Right, it's time to get into the EAS issues on my Range Rover.
Feel free to ignore this thread if it's too tedious but I thought I'd be better off writing stuff down methodically and if anyone has any advice (apart from Mr Molotov) just shout/laugh at me....

Symptoms:

1. Compressor runs too much. Has been like that for (ahem!) time.
2. Sits down overnight, parked on a slight slope.
3. Sits down over a couple of days sitting on the flat.
4. Just realised that the green dust seen between the solenoids in the block is probably dessicant!
5. Driving back from Salisbury, EAS boop boop and the Nanocom revealed "Valve permanently closed RHF"

She managed to drive back for 2.5 hours on emergency valves at 65 PSI all round (maybe 55 at the back?) and sat down again over three days. She self levelled on the way down, which was strange but I guess it's logical that the bags on the high side get squished more.

Resources!

2x Valve Blocks with Driver pack and plastic box.
The fitted one was last rebuilt 6-7 years ago
The spare on was rebuilt a couple of months ago but I couldn't get any pressure into the system when I hooked it up. Hmmm.
1x Dunlop compressor (fitted) which wasn't able to get us home, and I forgot to unplug it when we started driving again so it was probably running all that time, probably toast.
1x "Good, used" OEM compressor from ebay (the CNS4x4 Guy in Wales) which hopefully will run OK but needs testing.
1x compressor rebuild kit including sleeve from X8R

Nanocom
Calibration Rods

small brain.

First things I'm going to check:

1. Has the Dunlop Compressor died?
2. Is the dessicant in the dryer now done? (It's ancient, last changed just before a summer camp!) and is it now green?
3. Does the new pump run and produce pressure?

Then we'll see....

Hi, does anyone know, if I can put an original Alpine head (Harman Kardon with all the gadgets like DSP and SUB) unit sinmply plug & play into a 98 midline equipped Gems?

I have a 2001 breaker with a working unit and thinking of swapping my after market unit to a genuine one ...
Thanks in advance!

Does anyone know the location / owner of the P38 sporting "RRP38A" plate? I spotted the car for sale a few years ago but see it's not been MOTd since 2021.

Hi folks - occasional lurker here but first post.

My 95 P38 4.0 developed a problem yesterday. The problem is that the bits of the engine that live in the block exploded out of the oil pan.

There weren't really any warning signs - I thought it sounded a bit rough at idle a couple of minutes before it failed, but that's it. After about a minute on the highway at 50mph there was a bang, I lost power and a load of smoke came out of both ends. After pulling over and seeing oil spewed out the side of the engine I knew it was done for.

I'm not sure what the underlying cause was. It was driving well but had started leaking quite a bit of oil recently and I had been topping it up. I don't think that the oil was low when it broke down as there's still a fair amount left in the sump (see photo - that's after a lot of oil came out the side of the block...).

The car drives ok but is pretty beaten up (broken plastic, permanent SRS fault, etc) and it doesn't make sense to throw money at it. Still... P38s are getting rarer and I'm attached to it. Is it realistic to try an engine swap at home?

Otherwise I guess I can scrap it and find another one in nice condition. That's the rational thing to do, right?

While I was switching between EAS boxes yesterday, I remembered that the cruise control vacuum has been disconnected at the usual T for err.. quite some time. So I took the opportunity to reroute the long line from the accelerator in front of the bracketry and that made it long enough to connect up again.
Once I had air in the bags again I went for a test drive, wondering if the CC would come back to life. It didn't :(
Have I knackered it by leaving the vacuum circuit open to atmosphere?

I set the CC button on the dash, got to about 50mph and then pressed the SET+ button on the wheel. Nothing happened. I kinda remember a light on the dash as well, but if that was ever a real thing, it isn't now. Is there anything else I can try?

Hi folks :)
I tried rebuilding a Dunlop branded EAS compressor a while back and it was so totally grenaded inside I gave up as the bearings were shot.
I've got two more in the garage of uncertain provenance. What do you reckon to my chances with these ones?

https://eatlard.net/index.php/s/3bKWRbLXC395oJT

Just wondering if there is a better place to stick the aerial rather than on the heated windscreen, just in case the heated element interferes with the signal??

Good evening.
I am finally back in the P38 game after taking nearly a year to replace my shattered flex-plate. I also had some "ticking" sound from a hole in the exhaust manifold, got that welded too.
Since this car is constantly testing my faith, now I have a new sound ^^.
When engine is cold it sounds fine, when it warms up there is a ticking sound, coming from the middle of the engine. I have used a mechanics' stethosope to find the sound but it sounds the same everywhere. Up, down, left right. Sound very central like where the camshaft is. It is also about 6 times a second, so quite exactly half the RPM, so camshaft speed.
Any ideas please what that could be ? I was already fearing the liners.....
I have attached a sound file, first couple seconds engine cold, then engine warm.....
greetings,
Max.
https://c.web.de/@337510546125364120/wG6ArPRS8KkJ1kI5dHarGA
(you have to mark the whole link and then paste into browser...don´t know how to do it better...)

So I've had an issue for a long time where the barrel sticks in, and you get the "ignition key in" error. I usually just tap the barrel with the key and the warning goes away.

However it seems to have gotten worse. Now I get the message even when the barrel has popped out, and no amount of poking or jiggling will fix the message.

Any ideas how to sort it? Is it likely to be the switch itself?

Is it possible to extend the interior lights fade out? Using nanocom?