If you find tps at fault, pretty sure I've got 2 of them floating about, both genuine.
Just let me know, can always pop it in the post..
If you find tps at fault, pretty sure I've got 2 of them floating about, both genuine.
Just let me know, can always pop it in the post..
Thanks Chris, I ordered one at the same time as the cps because with a week to two week delay in post I thought it best to be able to change that too if cps was not the answer. It cost about £20 - worth it if it solves the problem.
My CPS and TPS have arrived from UK. Now I am in a another fix-seem to be digging a bigger hole with everything I touch. You'll see that with all the help here I got the LPG and everything running ok, starting and idling perfectly apart from the strange occasional misfiring/lack of rpm/power when the engine was hot and only at certain rpm in range abt 1000 -2400.
So I changed the TPS only, (not the CPS) but it may be the wrong type and found car started but then stuck at a fast idle of abt 2000 and will not run slower. So I put the old TPS back in and that now sets the same - high idling. The old TPS apparently worked ok but have I caused the ECU to reset and will it reset itself with driving or does it need a testbook reset !
The new TPS I ordered looks the same but has a slightly different drive shape plastic keyway. The one I bought is here
New TPS requires an Adaptive Reset. If it's just that, as you don't have the kit to do that, then it should adapt itself over time.
There is, of course the possibility that the Freelander TPS just isn't compatible with the GEMS, but as you've put the old TPS on and rev problem hasn't gone away it's likely down to Adaptives.
Oh thanks - so quick 'cos here I am fretting what the hell to do - I've just this moment looked in my manual and it says - Warning, If the TPS is changed, it is necessary to reset the closed throttle voltage. Are you reasonably certain it will reset over time and if not - there is an English guy on the coast who works out of a shed who has a sort of handheld diagnostic kit for my Range Rover but it is not a proper RR testbook. Do you think it is capable of doing a reset if necessary. Of course, any journey with car in current situation is not easy.
By the way - if I did the Zavoli autocal again - starts on petrol -and run at the constant 2800 rpm or so as directed , would it reset the main ECU during the procedure and therefore the idling too or is it completely ruled by the main ECU setting ?
super4 wrote:
By the way - if I did the Zavoli autocal again - starts on petrol -and run at the constant 2800 rpm or so as directed , would it reset the main ECU during the procedure and therefore the idling too or is it completely ruled by the main ECU setting ?
Noooooooooooo
Don't mess with the LPG. Has no relation to Adaptives whatsoever
super4 wrote:
Are you reasonably certain it will reset over time and if not - there is an English guy on the coast who works out of a shed who has a sort of handheld diagnostic kit for my Range Rover but it is not a proper RR testbook. Do you think it is capable of doing a reset if necessary. Of course, any journey with car in current situation is not easy.
Without knowing what diagnostics kit he has, there's no way to tell. It's a bit like saying, I know a guy with a spanner, will it fit this nut?
Hawkeyes, Nano Evos and the like will, generic code readers won't
fair enough - I'm not up on the limitations of the different diagnostic stuff. He is hard to get hold of on the phone so difficult to ask. I remember it was about the shape of a loaf of bread - longer than wide - only about 3-4 inches deep and yellow I think ? - it had a set of chips you plug in at the wire lead entrance for different cars. If it can do the job its worth a journey I suppose.
Are you sure that the TPS is properly engaged with the shaft? If it's not it could be causing jamming.
I put it onto the shaft and push it against the throttle body with my fingers only It should go right home without much pressure at all. I then move the throttle arm with TPS still held in place by hand only to ensure everythings nicely mated. Only then do I put retaining screws in.
If you really want to be sure, take off TPS, pop off inlet manifold pipe, check "butterfly" fully closed, fit TPS as above, exercise it and repeat to check butterfly still fully closed
Yes - I think I was careful about refit - the original which I put back on has a slight 'start' on the travel so when throttle closed the potentiometer has started on track a little bit and this was running idle correctly at about 600-700. When I put the new one on there was no 'start' tension and that is when it ran at 2000 idle. I connected the plug on the old one again but took it out of the throttle housing and the idle was ok - presumably because the pot was at zero. When inserted the plastic key is started on track a little bit and this was obviously set at zero volts and ran fine before.
As you suggest - it needs to do the Adaptive thing or be set by testbook or other I think. Grateful for your extensive knowledge but what a nightmare these cars are when old and breaking. My friend here said dump the P38 and keep the classic going - much less trouble he said ........
super4 wrote:
Yes - I think I was careful about refit - the original which I put back on has a slight 'start' on the travel so when throttle closed the potentiometer has started on track a little bit and this was running idle correctly at about 600-700. When I put the new one on there was no 'start' tension and that is when it ran at 2000 idle. I connected the plug on the old one again but took it out of the throttle housing and the idle was ok - presumably because the pot was at zero. When inserted the plastic key is started on track a little bit and this was obviously set at zero volts and ran fine before.
As you suggest - it needs to do the Adaptive thing or be set by testbook or other I think. Grateful for your extensive knowledge but what a nightmare these cars are when old and breaking. My friend here said dump the P38 and keep the classic going - much less trouble he said ........
The spluttering you describe a few posts back (particually with the revs around 1500-2400 rpm) I've had the same, kept chasing round the fault as I'd suspected it was a petrol injector at one point. The solution was in the end a coil pack, but to find that I ended up putting a set of these on the plugs https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-2780-Ignition-Spark-Tester/dp/B003AN1VPW/
That showed which cylinders were a problem - you should get all 4 cylinders showing the same on the plug testers (a single set is enough to work with, do one bank/side at a time) If they don't (mine was visibly different at idle though ran okish at idle) then either the coil pack itself, or possibly given your earlier comments about rats the wiring going to it (the 3 pin plug side) may be at fault. At very least it should allow you to rule an ignition fault out.
Well when I first got the P38 - second hand but in good shape it very soon started problems with running and in those days I could afford to take it to the RR garage and they quickly found the coil pack was faulty which surprised me and changed it at a cost of around 4-500 pounds ! The car ran perfectly afterwards. This time with a similar problem but ten years on, I cleverly bought a second hand coil pack for £35 and changed it in case. Car started, ran smoothly but having warmed up and driving quite slowly in traffic the engine seemed to 'hunt' or run unevenly as if missing again as it had before so I judged that unless the second hand coil pack was also faulty I had not found the fault. I have renewed plugs, leads, coil pack- trued up the LPG with help from wonderful people here but still have this problem on both petrol and LPG.
Repaired what I can see of rat wires and that is a possibility but this is an intermittent fault and seems related to heat.
Haven't had spark tester for years - so now you need 4 but is it just a question of being able to see a spark/light and can you then judge if it is working ok ? Thanks for pointing me to them.
Lurking in my post yesterday is the new Crankcase sensor which I'm scared to touch after my experience with the Throttle position sensor. Assuming it is the right one I read that there are critical washers fitted for different spacing on Manual and Automatic gearbox. I was planning to take it down to Dave on the coast because it is not easy to get at under the car on my sloping dirt track here on the mountain and I'm trying to avoid my 'Army operations in the field' which I have done in the past.
Anyway- going out to try and get the throttle position thing right - hoping that by driving round it will 'self adapt' to the correct idle speed again - crossing fingers but just don't know what that ECU gets up to or how it thinks.
Some relief - it is now idling at about 1000 after a short drive around the hills. The normal idle was always about 600 -700 so I'm hoping it will 'adapt' more. At least I can drive to town and garages if necessary
super4 wrote:
Some relief - it is now idling at about 1000 after a short drive around the hills. The normal idle was always about 600 -700 so I'm hoping it will 'adapt' more. At least I can drive to town and garages if necessary
and.... breathe..... :)
All of the adaptive stuff will adapt, over time as that's what it's meant to do. Doing an Adaptive Reset just speeds up the process as it sets everything to a base value.
super4 wrote:
Well when I first got the P38 - second hand but in good shape it very soon started problems with running and in those days I could afford to take it to the RR garage and they quickly found the coil pack was faulty which surprised me and changed it at a cost of around 4-500 pounds ! The car ran perfectly afterwards. This time with a similar problem but ten years on, I cleverly bought a second hand coil pack for £35 and changed it in case. Car started, ran smoothly but having warmed up and driving quite slowly in traffic the engine seemed to 'hunt' or run unevenly as if missing again as it had before so I judged that unless the second hand coil pack was also faulty I had not found the fault. I have renewed plugs, leads, coil pack- trued up the LPG with help from wonderful people here but still have this problem on both petrol and LPG.
Repaired what I can see of rat wires and that is a possibility but this is an intermittent fault and seems related to heat.
Haven't had spark tester for years - so now you need 4 but is it just a question of being able to see a spark/light and can you then judge if it is working ok ? Thanks for pointing me to them.
Lurking in my post yesterday is the new Crankcase sensor which I'm scared to touch after my experience with the Throttle position sensor. Assuming it is the right one I read that there are critical washers fitted for different spacing on Manual and Automatic gearbox. I was planning to take it down to Dave on the coast because it is not easy to get at under the car on my sloping dirt track here on the mountain and I'm trying to avoid my 'Army operations in the field' which I have done in the past.
Anyway- going out to try and get the throttle position thing right - hoping that by driving round it will 'self adapt' to the correct idle speed again - crossing fingers but just don't know what that ECU gets up to or how it thinks.
i found it easier with 4 as you have a whole side to look at then - if you have all 4 you can easily see any difference between them, both on timing of the sparks and how bright they are. In my case 1 was entirely missing on cyl 3, and cyl 2 was very faint.
You could use a single one, but its a lot more faffing around (and with 4 you have them all on the engine so you don't have to keep it running so long, which means you don't have the exhaust so hot when trying to put them on the other bank!)
Yes that makes sense - especially if the spark is missing or poor. And as you say one of the difficulties is making changes when the engine is hot. Is there any software free or affordable for our period of Range Rovers like testbook that one can get hold of ? I have the free EAS software from USA which has allowed me to keep the suspension ok. And some garage guys I speak with say they only have the latest testbook/software or modern version so cannot do my 98 P38. Is this because they have made modern RRs able to use affordable diagnostics ?
super4 wrote:
... Is there any software free or affordable for our period of Range Rovers like testbook that one can get hold of ? I have the free EAS software from USA which has allowed me to keep the suspension ok....
EASUnlock V4.0 is said to be quite good in terms of software. Costs money though
Most of the regulars on here use the Nanocom Evolution (standalone). Whether you think it's affordable depends on how much disposable wealth you have :)
Or how much you're prepared to spend on tow trucks and garage "Diagnostics" which eventually turn out to be generic Snap-On OBDII readers.
Ah Orange I seem to be back in favour ! Able to post again. Looking at the internet am I right in thinking the Nanocom does allow you to reset the settings in the ECU ?
Also, I have been driving about (on petrol) hoping for the idle speed to be 'adapted' - it is trying hard and seems to have made up its mind to hover between 700 and a 1000 at first when one makes a stop and puts gear in parked but then rises to abt 1500 and holds there. Is there a clever little guy in the ECU who says to himself - 'Car stopped.- parked - engine running - so set correct idle ? ' Just how long does it take to learn its lesson ?
If anyone is as behind the times as I am and needs a copy of my old EAS software which seems to work ok then let me know.