Hi all,
Now my fusebox is on all of the time, no connection issues, it used to drop power when I locked the car .

       When I put my RR P38 4.6 1995 into reverse, on all normal cars the mirror drops to the memory saved position. BUT on my RR the mirror goes UP when I put in reverse.

       I have saved the memory many times and saved the reverse position too many times.   But up it goes instead of down.. It makes me smile when it happens but it is definitely annoying when I am reversing.

      Ideas, gratefully received, otherwise a computer will need to be kicked, expensively .... Although, I would have to think it is the one under a seat, ?

cheers
Neil

Mirror going up when put into reverse or going down but not returning when you come out of reverse is caused by failed feedback pot in the mirror motor mechanism. Two options, spend a fortune on a replacement mirror or turn the feature off. To turn it off, ignition in position 2 but engine not running, select reverse and press and hold the memory button for two seconds. Then the mirrors won't move when you select reverse but they will stay where they are.

Not sure what you mean by the fusebox being on all the time. Both fuseboxes are going to be powered on some circuits.

Well, that's great news...... I thought it was just me! I am sorry for your trouble Neil, I really know how frustrating it can be. I have had the same issue since I fitted a replacement mirror, it was 12 wire instead of 13 and I was told it would work fine, but it does the same,... ie goes the wrong way. And I have now learnt that the memory position can be set which I didn't know, not that that will be any use until I get a fully functionung replacement. Great stuff, thanks lads.

Hi all,

Thank you - Lets start at the beginning. The fuse box used to loose power, so every week everything reset, like the windows has to be reset to go up and down automatically.

so, the memory function never worked and if it did, it just got lost all of the time. But, I then took my fuse box apart, cleaned it all and now the power is on all the time and I never loose the memory function. My windows always automatically work and hence the mirror started doing this going up business.

So, looks like I have the wrong mirror stuff inside, I am happy to take this apart, please which bit should I need for passenger (left side mirror) to purchase to get this working as I do love the mirror drop feature, especially as I have not fitted my reversing sensors yet.

Cheers all, stay safe

Neil

It's a 13 way connector with only 12 ways used. The non-memory mirrors only have a 6 way connector so won't be interchangeable. The motors are connected to pins 3 and 5 (Red and Yellow wires) for the left/right motor, pins 2 and 4 (Grey and Blue wires) for the up/down motor. There are also the two feedback potentiometers with the tracks in parallel connected to pins 10 and 13 (Black/Red and White wires) with the wipers connected to pin 11 (Orange wire) for the up/down feedback and pin 12 (Purple wire) for the left/right feedback. So if 12V is applied to pins 2 and 4 (one way round for up, the other way round for down) with an Ohm meter connected between pins 10 and 11, you should see a smoothly varying resistance as the motor drives the mirror up and down. If you do it could be that the track is disconnected at one end so try the same check between pins 11 and 13.

Chances are you won't see a smoothly varying resistance but one that jumps when it reaches the worn part of the track. It might be possible to rescue it for a while if you can get some contact cleaner into the pot but as it is designed to be exposed to the elements it is a sealed unit so it's unlikely you'll be able to get any cleaner inside it. The only thing you can buy is a complete mirror (at £200+), you can't buy individual components other than the glass.

If you do manage to get it working it'll be a first as I don't know of anyone that has ever managed to fix them. The mirrors are large enough that they can be adjusted so you can see what is behind you and still see the ground behind the car. Many people set their mirrors so the horizon is across the middle of the mirror but as you don't really need to see following aircraft, they can be tilted downwards so you still see what is behind you but see the ground too.

Gilbertd wrote:

It's a 13 way connector with only 12 ways used. The non-memory mirrors only have a 6 way connector so won't be interchangeable. The motors are connected to pins 3 and 5 (Red and Yellow wires) for the left/right motor, pins 2 and 4 (Grey and Blue wires) for the up/down motor. There are also the two feedback potentiometers with the tracks in parallel connected to pins 10 and 13 (Black/Red and White wires) with the wipers connected to pin 11 (Orange wire) for the up/down feedback and pin 12 (Purple wire) for the left/right feedback. So if 12V is applied to pins 2 and 4 (one way round for up, the other way round for down) with an Ohm meter connected between pins 10 and 11, you should see a smoothly varying resistance as the motor drives the mirror up and down. If you do it could be that the track is disconnected at one end so try the same check between pins 11 and 13.

Chances are you won't see a smoothly varying resistance but one that jumps when it reaches the worn part of the track. It might be possible to rescue it for a while if you can get some contact cleaner into the pot but as it is designed to be exposed to the elements it is a sealed unit so it's unlikely you'll be able to get any cleaner inside it. The only thing you can buy is a complete mirror (at £200+), you can't buy individual components other than the glass.

If you do manage to get it working it'll be a first as I don't know of anyone that has ever managed to fix them. The mirrors are large enough that they can be adjusted so you can see what is behind you and still see the ground behind the car. Many people set their mirrors so the horizon is across the middle of the mirror but as you don't really need to see following aircraft, they can be tilted downwards so you still see what is behind you but see the ground too.

thats how mine are set :)

Could never get my head around the feature myself..

It is annoying when reversing a trailer as it ends up pointing at the floor, which is no help..

Been disabled now!!

The Ascot has it and I also find it annoying. I keep my mirrors set so I'm not looking at the sky and can not only see the road behind me but can also see the ground at the back of the car and the trailer when I've got one on. I suppose it might be different if the mirrors have flat glass in them but both mine are convex so I can see more in them anyway.

I find it handy when looking for the kerb... but yes is must be a real pain if reversing a trailer.

Hi everyone, and thank ups all for your advice

I can say a few mirrors used on eBay with 12 pin . Please is it possible to remove the innards from a mirror unit and install in mine with my glass.

I have no idea why my mirror goes up but I'd love it to go down and all go for a replacement innards from eBay if this will solve my problem.

I love the dipping as I do not toe.

cheers
Neil

Swapping the innards over is fairly simple as long as you can get the glass off without breaking the plastic frame that holds it in place. I've managed to do it once and it popped out just as it is supposed to but every other time the plastic frame has broken. Fortunately it is available as a separate part (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mirror-glass-clip-stc4625-p-450.html)

Yes, get lots of spare plastic bits. You will probably need to depin the connector, or cut lots of wires and resolder them. May be easier to just respray the replacement

Sounds like when I did the left hand mirror on my Porsche 928 as I had to rewire in-place with the mirror wrapped up in cloth and taped to the car. I really re-learnt how to do good soldering and wire wrap sleeving then.

I will get one of these now and probably add the plastic glass holder.

Interesting as I can see 6, 10 and 13 pins, so suppose I will need the 13 pin unit

cheers Neil

cheers
Neil

Yes, 13 pin but with only 12 used.

Hi all,

I've taken all the screws out but I cannot remove the electrickery bit from the mirror to swap it over. My wiring is 10 wires from car to mirror and the mirror is 10 wire too.

I've thoughts of spraying the whole lot in electrical cleaner, but I also thought how do i remove the electrical bit but the grey plastic and green surround will not come apart and I cannot get the coils outs, all screws are out in both units, the head and the fitting to the car.

Is this a case of pinging out with a screwdriver or are there hidden screws

cheers
Neil

Just found

Slide mirror glass sideways (against a spring) from the car window towards the outside
unclip heated mirror wires on rear of glass
3 small phillips scres to remove motor mount
4 black philips that holds the mirror case to the mirror frame
Close mirror (towards window) and theres a black phillips from underneath mirror case upwards
The mirror casing/housing will now wiggle away from the mirror frame...
Lots easier to colour code and no masking at all...

But, any idea how to flip the black plastic from the bottom to enable me to get at the wiring in the central hinge please

I ended up having to remove a large star washer to dismantle it, but trust me, you don't want to have to do that - it's under load, and a pig to get back on. I'd just mask the black bit

Hi everyone,

super news and I now have a replacement passenger mirror dipping. Interesting it did not more until I did save memory 1, then it worked and dipped, so happy.

cheers everyone and stay safe, now going to figure out the next challenge as I have many lined up as loving my 4.6 v8 now we have cheaper unleaded fuel

Neil

Mine has just started going up when put into reverse, then down again in drive. Happened after an alternator change (battery disconnected).

It worked perfectly until I 'fixed' the car (familiar?).
It's passenger side, drivers side has a broken clip (link for replacement in Gilbert's post - thanks).

I plan to repaint the mirrors from my gems to approximately suit my thor. Then fix the original thor mirrors as spares. Other than possible wiring issues, should this be OK?

Doesn't seem worth paying for a pro paint job (very average example), nearly warm enough for rattle cans. Anyone know of a cheap shiny black that won't look too out of place on a black thor? If not, time for some matt black (back to the 80s 😀) or maybe satin black (dragging myself into the 90s).

The reverse position for the mirrors needs setting as it will have lost the setting when the battery was disconnected. Procedure is in the owners handbook but it is fairly simple.
Ignition switch in position 1 or 2 but engine NOT running.
Gear lever in Reverse
Adjust the mirror to the downward setting you want
Press the MEMORY STORE button along with button 1 or 2 depending on what setting you have the seat set for you for 2 seconds. Dash will say Mirror dip stored.

If it is playing up and you want to turn the feature off, it's the same process as above except you only press Memory Store without pressing one of the memory buttons for 2 seconds and the dash will say Mirror dip off.