I was thinking of drilling a hole in the airbox and EAS lid and feeding a length of PVC pipe between the two to give a cold air feed to the compressor to help keep it cool, atleast when moving..
Might extend its life.
Anyhow i've got a new Dunlop pump coming tomorrow..
Should have spent the money on desiccant for the dryer, either that or take it out and stick it in the microwave at least. I bet it's set like solid porridge. The thermal switch cuts out at 105 degrees C and the compressor is designed and built to be able to withstand the heat so shouldn't need any additional cooling.
I haven't had an issue with mine over heating, but it feels hot, especially in summer. I've been leaving the lid off for that reason, but maybe that's not a good idea?
In my opinion, yes and no. Certainly no lid means better air flow, but the air that comes, comes from that large ... oven in the middle of the engine bay ... which might be worse.
I know those things can withstand some heat, I am not so sure about things in the engine bay being "... designed and built to be able to ... there are so many idiotic features on the P38 you have to put some doubt on what really went through their minds when placing certain components ...
Oh well I was more thinking in a physical barrier made with alu sheets shaped to fit around the engine, and coated with fire/heat insulation
When they're working properly, they don't get hot. Mine is running more than it should (I think it's due to a pitted NRV in the valve block) but it doesn't bounce off the thermal limit.
Forcing it to try and pump with solid desiccant isn't going to help though as pointed out above, and will cause it to get hot very quickly. Worth checking as pointed out further up the thread. A new pump isn't going to help if thats the problem.
The collet looks like the one of the Airbag, is it a question of removing the dryer and throwing it in the microwave for a few seconds to dry it out?
No, pull it out, split in in half, sieve the desiccant to get rid of the dust, put the remaining granules in the microwave to dry them out and then put it back together.
Or buy a new load of dessicant for pennies....
I went nuts and bought the whole assembly for £30.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-dryer-dunlop-ntc9812-p-591.html
Yep i've ordered some of that fangled stuff..
EAS is level too..
New stuff added to the dryer..
done some work around the farm with it, and the compressor is cooler, i can wrap my hand around it, and keep it there..
Which is nice, no longer scalding!!
old stuff was like porridge..
An oddity of this P38 is things keep changing...........
The Heights are all over the shop..
This is "standard" which to me looks like Motorway
And Motorway looks like Access.
Wade mode looks ok..
The odd thing also is the default setting for when i start her is Wade mode, and i have to drop her down to standard manually..
Oh and she isn't self levelling when there is someone in the passenger seat so she's on the piss when parked..
Especially noticeable when at a petrol station..
You can get 3 fingers between the arch and tyre on one side, and an entire leg the other side!!!!!
My EAS cable won't connect..
And i've replaced the EAS timer relay with a a standard 4 pin relay to help stop it self levelling when you turn her off.
otherwise it looks almost comical..
bastard thing.
And now the truth is out. Replacing the timer relay has a number of effects, some good, or at least useful, some not good.
The Good.
The normal operation is for the timer relay to power up the EAS every few hours and drop 3 corners down to the same height as the lowest one. Normally that is fine except if you have a slight leak on one corner which results in the car sitting on the bumpstops after it's been left overnight. The corner with a leak drops and the others are then lowered to the same height. If you temporarily fit a 4 pin relay (or just remove the timer relay), it doesn't power up periodically so only the corner with a leak drops and you know exactly which one has the problem.
The not so good.
When someone gets out of the car or you take a heavy weight out of the boot, the suspension will obviously rise but when you switch off and close the door normally you hear the tick, tick tick from the solenoids and it self levels. Without the timer relay, the power is removed as soon as you turn off the car so it doesn't self level and will sit on the piss.
Some people have also found that with a 4 pin relay in there it will default to high rather than the height it was left in when parked. It may be something to do with the height it was at when the relay was changed or it might just be showing its displeasure.
Diagnostics won't connect. The diagnostic line is connected to the timer relay so if it isn't there you never will get EASUnlock, Nanocom, Faultmate, Testbook and any other diagnostics to connect.
It was designed the way it was for a reason so quite why people seem to think they know better than the man who designed it is beyond me.....
StrangeRover wrote:
It runs for 10 seconds and can cut out for several minutes only to cut in again for 20 seconds and then cut out for 10 then back off for a few minutes LOL
The motor did turn very easily..
I had (have?) the same issue with the EAS I just fitted to the Borrego.
Compressor will run for a short period, shut off, then re start.
Temperature is not a factor, and Nano reports temp switch normal, compressor ON and pressure switch OPEN.
None of the states change until the system pumps up fully, then switch closes and compressor says it is OFF
This seems to have gone mostly away after a few days. ("It will ride in with wear sir"?)
This EAS was removed from the knackers yard, and I have not done anything to it other than to pull the idiot springs and install it.
I have ordered an Pump kit and have a rebuilt valve block ready to go in.
Also noticed that the compressor is really noisy, so will no go out and check the washers....
Also got my new accumulator in the post today for Bolt! (Only took a month to get here! UKAR)
I would be interested to hear if you have any luck figuring out the intermittent running issue.
The EAS diagnostics wouldn't idle when the original relay was fitted..
My issue is it sits like this with the timer relay in.....
Bloody air suspension, could swear the coils on my D2 were softer comfier and never sagged to one side even with shit shocks.
As far as being a tad more clever than the designer i'd disagree, just trying to make it look a little less comical, replacing the relay only results it sagging on one side when loaded up..
Ahhh!!
Park it on the flat and leave it overnight. The lowest corner has a leak. Simples :)
(I'd bet on the rear left!)
No leaks Morat she can sit for weeks at a time without sinking, It "levels" to that!!
Looks like it needs calibrating then. I thought you'd already done that but it may have not saved the new settings (you have to do one height at a time) or it never happened as you can't achieve a stable good idle.
yes - calibration blocks will most likely sort you out. - at least for Std and Motorway - which is where it will spend most of its life.
Right...
I have the Cable that allows a good idle.
I now have a new question..
It stays green however occasionally it flashes for 1/2 a second "no idle" but it is for a split second.
Using the "height sensor" section of the software I can move each corner individually, of course it doesn't sit there but it is communicating.
My issue is I can't write any new heights in, as the "write" section is still red..
A slither of good news is there are no faults recorded..
yay..
Is there a song and dance i have to do to allow the car to get new heights?
Do i have to have it in access mode?
etc etc
Cheers gents.