My P38's Heating works really well..

As for the Aircon though....................

It stays Hot..

The air coming out the vents is also piss poor "to put it mildly" i've read up on another forum that the HVAC won't adjust the Blend motors while the Book symbol is illuminated, some say it is worth unplugging the HVAC waiting 10secs and replugging it, theoretically clearing the fault and allowing the car to try and adjust the motors..

Does this sound about right?

I've also looked at some who say you just have to repair the blend motors, or re-adjust them i'm assuming the dash has to come out to do them..?

She has had a New compressor pressure switches and condenser in the past few years so it would be nice to get it working!

Noit just the blend motors, the HEVAC will not try to use anything that it detects a fault on so if it detects a fault at self test when the ignition is first turned on, if a blend motor is detected as faulty it won't try to operate it. Same goes for the blowers, if it detects a fault with either blower, it doesn't try to use it. Ideally you need diagnostics to confirm what the fault is and which blend motor, only the faulty one will not be operating. You should be able to adjust the temperature on one side or the other. Unplugging the blend motors from the HEVAC, switching the ignition on for 10 seconds, then off and plug them back in sometimes resets the fault but not always.

The ducting is plastic with foam seals which rot away so most of the blower output can get out before it even gets as far as the heater box, using duct tape for what it was originally designed for can be used successfully. Blend motors can be changed by going in through the hole after you've removed the instrument cluster or by dropping the glovebox out, no need to take the whole dash out. First you need to identify which blend motor is at fault and what the fault is.

As Gilbertd said, you don't need the dash out for the blend motors but when Marty took mine out the ducts were completely disconnected so I was glad we'd gone the long route. Otherwise, I'd have had perfect blend motors but the air would only have reached the back of the instruments!

Annnnnd.....
As for "Piss Poor" air,
when was the last time you changed the pollen filters?
Oh, if a fault is logged in the HVAC control, it will stay in memory no matter how long it is powered down.
As Gilbert said, it will self test each time you turn on
the ignition. If a fault is present on any sub system, it will log it and display the book.
Generic OBD readers will not help, you need Nano or similar for HVAC.

Pollen filters are brand new items.

It is worth confirming both blowers are actually running - if one has failed or isn't running for any other issue (looking at you, fusebox and footwell connectors), a visual inspection is not always clear: the airflow from the working blower can and will cause the other one to spin backwards and will result in poor airflow.

You may feel air being blown out of the filter housing of the offending blower if that is the case - I'm not sure on that as while I know I've had one not run before, I have a nanocom - so the poor airflow and fault code made it pretty apparent in my case.

remove the instrument panel and remove the blend motors, top one is the distribution motor , operates 3 flaps inside the box , the other operate the air temp, one flap. try and move the big white wheel , it should move freely if it doesn't it's a dash out IMHO. go straight to the real issue, it takes about 30 minutes or so, the little 7.2v motors will struggle to move if the flaps in the box are tight. it's a plastic box that shrinks over time and the flaps go tight , it's a shame only the air box dose that???
don't bother with all the silly tricks they are only temporary and a waste of time
PS if you need to remove the dash don't forget the fans.

Good call on only one fan running. That will also give the book and naff all air as what is sucked by one working fan will just go straight out the other side rather than through the heater box. If you take both pollen filters out, you can see them down the hole and see if they are both running.

I know you replaced the components, but are your ac pipes in the engine bay cold? Else you have a different issue

Silence - is that "oh cr** i forgot I needed cold pipes", or because of higher priority fixes getting in the way?

I've gotta get some free time to pull it to bits..

the Driver side fan doesn't work..

Being covered with water for a good while has probably sealed its fate...

Cheers gents.

10 minutes. Drop the knee panel, snip the tie wraps holding the loom trunking, 4 screws, pull it out.

Yep, easy as pie done both sides. Glove box side takes longer but still relatively easy.