StrangeRover wrote:
leolito wrote:
What brand was the compressor that failed, if names can be made?
Dunlop
There's your problem then... I seem to remember Morat's one destroying itself in short order after he fitted.
Contrary to what you'd expect given most of the EAS system was Dunlop, the compressor isn't. The originals were a modified version of a Thomas 315 compressor from the US from memory. The Dunlop compressors really don't seem to be good as the originals unfortunately
I've know the crank bearing break up on a Dunlop pump too.
But what does 'Dunlop' really mean on these things ? Made In China in a factory that happens to have the letters D U N L O P handy perhaps ?
Using respected names like this solely to boost their margins etc etc Yes, maybe I am a little jaded from buying so-called OEM stuff at a premium and then realising their "Quality Control" is dubious too ? Not just for RR items either - a seemingly-universal problem with car parts now of course /rant off
I've still got that Dunlop on the shelf, sitting next to a rebuild kit. I'll dig into it and see what went pop.
I thought that Dunlop came back with me so I could look at rebuilding it? Or do you have another one?
I know I took a Dunlop one apart and it had brass dust all through it because I think the motor shaft had been spinning in the piston crank (I presume grub screw was loose or never done up tight enough) and it had basically ground out the inside of the crank.
Oh, btw.. I believe I have your 17 and 18mm socket here... Found them last time I was at the workshop and put them in my tool case to remember to bring them home
They're now sitting on the window sill and if you let me know where you want them sent, I'll get them in the post this week...
Oddly, the Dunlop components are interchangeable with the OE compressors and the only visible difference is the outer casting being plain alloy and not painted black. I know of one that failed, although not sure what type it was, where someone had put a new seal in it but hadn't lined the grub screw up with the flat on the shaft so it started to spin. When I put them together I always screw the grub screw in partly so it will only go on if it lines up with the flat.
Martyuk wrote:
I thought that Dunlop came back with me so I could look at rebuilding it? Or do you have another one?
I know I took a Dunlop one apart and it had brass dust all through it because I think the motor shaft had been spinning in the piston crank (I presume grub screw was loose or never done up tight enough) and it had basically ground out the inside of the crank.
Oh, btw.. I believe I have your 17 and 18mm socket here... Found them last time I was at the workshop and put them in my tool case to remember to bring them home
They're now sitting on the window sill and if you let me know where you want them sent, I'll get them in the post this week...
hmm, so I must have another one. ISTR a rapid failure at some point but hey. I'll investigate tomorrow.
Thanks for the sockets! Sorry I left them.
If you could send them to my home address that would be ideal - the post at work hasn't recovered from lockdown yet. I'll send you the postage ofc.
Thanks!
Bought myself a recon pump off a chap on ebay.
He seems to have good reviews, it's a genuine pump not the dunlop crap and he lists pictures of the rebuild which is reassuring.
In the process of getting a refund for the Dunlop one!
Getting to be a regular occurence!
Bumpstops again!
This time with a different fault.
Any ideas.
Means that it's not seeing a change from the FR height sensor when it's commanded the valve to open.
It could either be a sticky valve, bad solenoid coil, or even a bad connection between the driver pack and the solenoids, or the EAS ECU and the driver pack.
I've seen a number of times where people have found loose pins in the connectors to/from the driver pack which gives a weird response, so I'd have a look at that first.
Worst case the driver pack is failing on that corner.
Any time I've seen "valve stuck closed" and "cannot lower" it's been a knackered driver pack. Every single driver pack I've taken off a breaker has had at least one intermittent channel.
I really need to get my arse in gear and finish my replacement driver PCB...
Cheers Marty and Gordon..
I'll look into the driver pack!
Wonder if this has anything to do with it.
Tempted to just lop the wires off that are green and splice them together..
Weird it is only 1 wire per block.
One wire is white with a black tracer, god knows what that ones does!!!
Where was that one? Behind the LH kick panel? If it is, the White/Black has nowt to do with EAS wiring, but quite a few of the others do. Although they carry data between the ECU and the switch, so highly unlikely to cause the fault you have. You need to pull the valve block out and check the connector between the valve block and the driver pack.
Left hand kick panel..
Both plugs behind there have some green bits!
There's two behind there, the one you've pictured and a second 8 way one. The 8 way carries audio from the head unit to the speakers.
Oh,..
Radio doesn't work anyway due to the DSP MIA..
Well.....
My Valve pack driver has a crack in the resin, quite a bad looking one too...
I wonder............
Test it then.....
How do ya go about doing that?