Apart from making sure you've no leaks on manifold etc, I'd run on petrol until you've bedded it in. Baby steps and all that. You can use the Nano to get it just right on petrol fuelling and monitor it. Once it's bedded in, had an oil change and is good on petrol, then start playing with the LPG

Martyuk wrote:

My next question.... I have a bit of the LPG plumbing left to do (got all the under manifold bits done, but have a few vacuum lines to run and plumb the gas rail temp/pressure sensor and filter in still)... but how long should I leave it before getting it running on gas? should I do the first 500-1000 run in miles on petrol and then look at it once the first oil change is done, or should I just go for it and get it up and running whenever I can?

Always so nice working with shiny new things... glad I could be of help and we got it all done nicely. Marty had thought of pretty much everything in terms of having spares or replacement items, and that was definitely the way to go. Looking at you, exhaust downpipe studs...

I may have mentioned once or twice of my dislike for the FOURTEEN bell housing bolts during the endeavour. Other than those though, which I'd expected, it was pain free. Torque converter was a bit of a mare having not slid back slightly, but we managed to convince that to line up and bolt back up to the new flex plate with some creativity.

First start and cam break-in was as Marty said somewhat unnerving, mostly for me because I'm paranoid as hell about the lack of airflow across pretty much all of the exhaust, and also the P38's talent for trapping air in the cooling system. Had a couple of bottles of water ready in case anything did get a bit lively, but all was well, and the cooling system could hardly have behaved itself better! Quite reassuring to feel the air from the fan suddenly go hot as the new thermostat opened too.. which was nice to stand next to... it was bloody cold in the workshop!

Tool cabinet drawers, tailgate glass, and all flesh present and accounted for! Great success all round.

Martyuk wrote:
but how long should I leave it before getting it running on gas? should I do the first 500-1000 run in miles on petrol and then look at it once the first oil change is done, or should I just go for it and get it up and running whenever I can?

Mine was out of gas when I put the engine back in and and built it up (I did it the Chris method and fitted the naked block then built the engine up in the car). I ran it for the first time (with only the downpipes to see what it sounded like) to check that everything was working and nothing was leaking, then took it on it's first drive (after connecting the exhaust) of 3 miles down the road to fill it up and I ran on gas from there on in. Fuel is fuel and as long as the trims stay in spec, then it won't make any difference which you run on.

I'm the same as Richard, I've always gone straight back on the lpg, remember your engine will run so much cleaner on gas, the most important side of the engine is the cooling, which you've bled, so shouldn't be any problems. As for starting with just the manifolds and downpipes ,, SOUNDS goooood 😁

When I made preliminary enquires about LPG conversion, aborted as the local Autogas supplier shut down, the folk I talked to said they wanted the engine recently serviced and to have done a "reasonable" mileage on petrol after significant engine work before they would touch the vehicle. My impression was that this was more to ensure the customers took things seriously and to pretty much avoid having to deal with any non-LPG related issues during installation. I suppose its logical that any adjustment and tweaking due to settling down issues after significant engine work are best dealt with on petrol before putting LPG on top but how much that actually applies, if at all, in practice if the job is competently would be a whole n'other matter.

That said I do recall one serial optimist with another species of vehicle who reckoned that doing an LPG conversion would magically reduce fuel costs and eliminate the need to actually fix the sadly worn engine!

Clive

At 51.9p per litre, which is what I'm currently paying, it does magically reduce fuel costs but won't make a jot of difference to a worn engine. Oil stays much cleaner but still needs to be changed, just because it's clean doesn't mean it's still lubricating as it should. I suspect you are right though. If an engine has been rebuilt and not really run much, then you don't know if it is running properly until you've done a few miles. Does it feel down on power because it's still tight or because the timing/mixture or whatever isn't right? As a modern system slaves off the petrol system, that does need to be right for LPG to be right too.

Well, I need to finish plumbing in the LPG system first - still got the gas pressure/temp unit, and the vacuum takeoffs from the plenum to do. Along with the filter inline from the vapouriser

That being said, I have bigger problems at the moment... had a look underneath today to find oil drips on some of the sump bolts, and a large trail of dried coolant. I've nipped up the sump bolts, and traced the coolant trail back to one of the front cover bolts (long one that goes through water pump and timing cover) with coolant drips/stains off that.

I'd managed to leave my fan nut spanners at the workshop - but could just get to it from the bottom with a socket to give it a nip up. Fingers crossed that is all it needed, though if it's been weeping down the bolt shaft, then maybe I need to pull that bolt and put some RTV or something on it. Worst case, I guess I'll be dumping the coolant and replacing the water pump gasket. I'm sure it was all sat and sealed properly when I put it together, and all the bolts were torqued up properly.. I wonder if it's because all the stainless bolts come with spring washers and that under the head of the bolt is causing it to be able to seep out the bolt shaft.

I've just been to the workshop to grab the spanners, so at least I have the tools at home now to be able to get back in there if needed...

The downside.. the shiny new engine is already starting to look filthy (well apart from the leaks!) as it's had another couple of trips up the farm track, and it's pretty muddy up there at the moment!

Sigh... it would have been nice to make it a week without it leaking.. the coolant tank was nearly 2" below the cold line - so it can't be a small leak... considering I've only done about 50miles on it so far :(

I's swap the spring washer under the offending bolt for a decent flat washer and give the bolt a wipe with Loctitte 5776 or similar. (Definitely not RTV which isn't designed to resist shear) which would seal the thread and prevent the bolt working loose (not that I imagine it would).
My memory's a bit hazy at the moment so maybe someone can correct me, but doesn't the long bolt actually go into the waterway? If it does, that's how the coolant is getting up the shaft. Seal that and your problems are over!

I can't remember if that one was going into the waterway or not... I know it goes through the water pump, front cover, and then into the block, but will have to see if it is one that goes into the water jacket.

I'll have to see if I have Loctite 5776, pretty sure I don't - but I do have permatex thread sealant which I've used on some bits on the EAS system, and also to seal the new stub on the inlet manifold and the temp sensor - so that would probably do it if it's coming down the thread.

There is a flat washer already on the bolt, but I have some left over/spare flat washers that came in the bolt set (as they are for bolts not used on the Thor front cover) which I could swap the spring washer out for no problem.

Think I'll look at that tomorrow - I've still got the old block here so I can have a look at that to see about where the bolt goes.

Just a bit demoralizing after all the work put in so far!

LPG - I think I'm going to run it on petrol for the first while - it's not like my annual mileage is astronomical, so think that doing 500-1000 miles on petrol isn't going to break the bank! Will probably take it for a run down to London at some point once I've got the leak sorted. I'll hook the Nanocom up in a couple of days and see what the fuel trims etc are looking like - and if there are any faults showing (hopefully not!)

Thanks for the advice OB - I'll look into the bolt tomorrow now I've got the fan spanners to get the fan undone (tried with my other 36mm nut spanner and it's already bloody tight!)

Demoralising? No, just the normal glitches you'd expect after what was some pretty radical surgery.
Wanna swap places?! I'm now the world's demoralised expert :)

Marty as for the drip on the sumpbolt(s) just a question I hasitate to ask because V8 Dev did the crank for you and I assume they are beyond doubt, but did they use new crossbolts when installing the crank? These are special bolts that have a sort of gasket-washer to prevent oilleaks. Plus they go into the block where often a sumpbolt is located too.
It just crossed my mind.
Tricky to give them a call...
Tony.

Hi Tony,

I think that they would have use new bolts, or at the very least new sealing washers. It didn't look like the drop was coming from above onto the sump bolts - so I think it was probably just seepage from the bolts themselves. I'll be going around again to check them all when I'm next under it (probably tomorrow!)

I still haven't had the chance (or enthusiasm) to look at the front cover bolt - but that is what I'm going to attempt to do tomorrow. I'm tempted to just pull the pump and change the gasket anyway, just to be sure.... or do I try the bolt, seal it, use another flat washer instead of the spring and see what happens on a short test drive?

I'm still going through my pictures of the old engine, so will put them up soon, but for anyone interested (and who has a spare 15 minutes... then here is the link to the timelapse video of the engine install...

Engine swap timelapse

Marty

Brilliant video chaps, very inspiring (and also quite motivating) - and I am looking forward to the 'stills' from the movie too !

( I would have liked to see a small bottle of champagne cracked over the Bullbars for the re-start/launch though...)

Great viewing!!! Would have been a tad better with sound for two reasons. 1) to hear any screams of pain as fingers were rapped teehee 2) to hear it start up for the first time. Could see the exhaust smoke when it went for the first time but I do love the sound of a V8

I think there was only one possibly loudish yelp and that was a compression clamp twatting my finger! No elastoplast required OB! :)

Other than that, just the usual quiet grumblings, wishing to inflict pain on various LR designers, etc, and a weekend of general natter! Followed by glorious V8ness.

I don't think too much of it was smoke either... well, apart from the burnoff from the manifolds... I think (hope) most of it was steam, because it was freezing cold at 1am when we started running it in!

From what Nick was saying, it sounded pretty good at break in speed and the lifters didn't rattle for very long!

There was more cursing from me when underneath it undoing various bolts - and having sh*t dropping in my eyes... was thinking I should have washed it off underneath before starting - but figured it would be just as dirty by the time I got to the workshop anyway!

A great video Marty, some parts I will replay slow motion!
And who said you can't swap an engine in 12 minutes...

Great stuff. Thanks for the video, I enjoyed that!

Fantastic news Marty - I bet that's a great weight off your mind :)
And what a mate Sloth is!

What was the verdict on the old engine? Will it run again or is it off to the great dyno in the sky?

Has Marty slit his wrists after getting a water leak?? What's happening?