I think he's busy fixing everyone else's problems!
I took it to London last weekend - about 180 miles return from home.
Economy.. I reset the trip computer before leaving and by the time I got to London, I saw 22mpg on the dash..
Coolant and oil leaks... there are still some oil drips on a couple of the sump bolts - so I might again remove the spring washers on those bolts (all the stainless bolts came with spring and flat washers. and maybe a bit of some gasket goo on them too to try and seal them up. The dipstick hasn't dropped, so it's not pissing oil out anywhere.
Coolant... mmm... the bolt on the front seems to have sealed up, I'll have to try and see when it's running, but I think that is now sealed. The run to London still had it losing coolant, though I didn't top it up for the return trip and it looked about the same level in the tank, but it's definitely leaked some as there are still signs of fresh drips on the underside. I think some of it is from the hose clamps on the RHS of the engine where the heater core and LPG plumbing join up, so I've tightened the clamps again to see if that stems the tide.
I'm thinking I need to do a count up and replace them all with constant tension clamps, like the ones that the vehicle came with, and then that might see a few more potential leaks solved
Otherwise, it seems to be running OK - I get some weird rattles and grumbles at times - but I don't know where they are coming from as they sound the same as some of the noises I was getting before the engine swap...
As far as the engine goes though... it seems to be running pretty well. I'm up to about 260 odd miles on the run in at the moment, and have another nearly 230mile round trip to do for work on Sunday night/Monday afternoon - so should be hitting 500 miles this coming week... Should I do the oil change after 500 miles, or wait until closer to 1000?
I have been busy working on things for other people too... stripping door latches, so I can get a few more rebuilt, working on HEVAC units, a heater box, stripping window switchpacks for repair, and also pulling the interior of my own one apart a bit to do a few bits and pieces - like swap the HEVAC front panel from the fake rubbery/plastic wood to a genuine wood one which came on a HEVAC that I acquired from somewhere as a faulty one! That and fixing my fan speed knob as it wasn't catching every 'click' when turned...
Also swapped out the wooden surround for the instrument cluster from the one that looks like genuine wood, for one that is definitely 100% wood, and some chrome gauge surrounds which I which I've had sitting around for awhile aswell.. so will see how it looks when I get it all back together tomorrow...
I'd change it at 500 as you're doing some longish trips and then again at 1000 (except of course I've proved I can't count!).
What did V8 Devs advise?
I'm pleased it's running OK though. If you and Nick aren't too busy today feel free to drop by and re-assemble mine for me :)
Oh (begging letter now), if you have any of the little bolts that hold coil pack bracket to block lying around you couldn't drop a couple into an envelope could you? I'm down to 1 with a rounded head now!
Martyuk wrote:
I'm thinking I need to do a count up and replace them all with constant tension clamps, like the ones that the vehicle came with, and then that might see a few more potential leaks solved
That I prefer too, my experience is a sort of set and forget compared to the manual clamps which need retigtening. Problem is the correct size, they all carry a number referred to size and sometimes they just slightly differ like the heatercore clamps and the overflowbottleclamps. Nowhere I can find a listing for them what size to use. Anyone has that info? Your mileage shouldn't be too bad if I look at it or is my math wrong converting it to litres per km?
Orangebean wrote:
I'm pleased it's running OK though. If you and Nick aren't too busy today feel free to drop by and re-assemble mine for me :)
Oh (begging letter now), if you have any of the little bolts that hold coil pack bracket to block lying around you couldn't drop a couple into an envelope could you? I'm down to 1 with a rounded head now!
Good luck :)
The coil pack bracket will sit fine with just the bolts into the plenum - M6 I believe. Makes removing it in the future for the inevitable whatever much less of a pain. Mine only has one currently! So long as its bolted to something to ground it, as the coilpacks themselves ground through their mounting bolts.
Thanks Sloth
I'll have a hunt for some M6's but my small bolt selection is rather depleted
Onwards- time to get out the borescope for a looksee down the back of the engine,,,
Sloth wrote:
Good luck :)
The coil pack bracket will sit fine with just the bolts into the plenum - M6 I believe. Makes removing it in the future for the inevitable whatever much less of a pain. Mine only has one currently! So long as its bolted to something to ground it, as the coilpacks themselves ground through their mounting bolts.
Marty, Ray at V8 Dev told me to run mine for 1,000 miles on good old mineral 20W-50 then change it for fully synthetic 10W-50 or 10W-60. I got my engine in and running at about 2:30 on a Sunday but had to set off for a week working in Leeds at 6pm that same night. So I used it for the 100 mile trip there, then took it out for a 50-60 mile run every evening to get some miles on it and hit the 1,000 mile mark in less than a couple of weeks. Since then it's 10W-60 every 10,000 miles along with a new filter and a set of NGK plugs.
I don't have any spare bolts, sorry. Mine is only held in with one bolt aswell, it would have been 2, but one decided it was going take a dive down the back of the engine somewhere about midnight as we were getting nearly finished, so we left it with one in there! from memory, they are standard M6 thread about 12mm long though so should be easy to source locally.
Looks like I'll need to order up another oil filter soon then as I'll be passing 500miles this coming week... V8 Dev didn't mention anything about it (to be fair I haven't asked yet either as I knew it was going to be a bit of a stretch in time before receiving the engine and getting it fitted.) But if I try and do the oil change this week, or next weekend before I go away again for work, then it will be fresh for when I get back..
Tony... yes, the CT clamps, I think would be far better - but as you say, sizing is the fun bit... I've found a couple on eBay which have clamp sizes and a table for their minimum/maximum diameters, and an application size range. Being as they work on the OD of the pipe to be clamped, I'll have to get a cheap set of calipers and measure the different sizes of hose I have (luckily only 2 sizes!) and then can do a count of how many of each size I need.
Mileage/economy: 22mpg (UK MPG, not US!) works out at about 12.8L/100km
Today - got to see if I can extract the drivers blend motor as I think the pot is dodgy in it, (I am sure I've previously cut that duct so should be possible without removing the dash!) and then get it all back together and tested, before I head out this afternoon and go pick up a bigger diesel intercooler which came in one that we stripped years ago, but had a split in it, so a mate of a mate fixed it for me :)
Then need to try and cut my nav unit box down a bit more so it fits nicer in the dash space, and then give the girl a bit more a a clean as the quick power wash yesterday got rid of a fair bit of surface crud under the vehicle, but still needs a proper going over!
Thanks Marty.
Perhaps you'd be better off jet washing the lane?!
What are those clip type clamps that RR use that you ping off with a screwdriver and clip back up again with a pair of pliers called? I quite like those.
Stay warm...
Have a look here Mark, is this what you are looking for?
clamps
If in Dutch click the Union Jack in right-top corner.
They also sell CT clamps!
Not those Tony. They're the crimp and forget types on the site you mention- I'll try and get a pic of one. Even Rimmers don't list them for the P38.
I wouldn't have thought they are any better than Jubilee clips surely? If the hose starts to go soft so they are no longer tight enough, at least with a Jubilee clip you can tighten it up while they are a fixed size.
It's a horses for courses thing Gilbertd. The Cobra clips are great for vacuum hoses, breather pipes, synthetic hose that doesn't go soft, that sort of thing. They're a great reusable alternative for those crimp type clamps that you use once with their dedicated pliers, then have to mess around getting them off and then fit a new one. Jubilee clips, for example, are good for clamping hoses onto plastic fittings, but in the hands of a gorilla, can damage the plastic fitting.
Personal choice I guess. I've a combination of all 3 types on mine, depending on where I'm using them.
When I did my hoses I got hoses and cobra type clips as a complete set for pretty much same price as hoses alone elsewhere. May still have supplier details. Since found out that the nearest motor factor also does hose and official clip size deals.
Problem with Jubilee type clamps is that the pressure is quite uneven around the circumference of the hose. Also routinely overtightened. Way back when I was handling very high pressure air / gas stuff in the lab for MoD research had to do some training on pipework and joints and was very surprised by how low the clamping forces needed for ordinary stuff was. Bit of a difference between radiator hoses and 5,000 - 10,000 psi tho'. Apparently one really bad thing about jubilees and similar is that the more you tighten them the less even the pressure is. Not that they are the worst by a long way. Stupid sheet metal hand tighten ones on our laser cooling systems were only good for about 4 psi and if gorilla student on vacation placement took a pair of pilers to them you could see the hose being pulled out away from the stub. Its the ring round the end or barbs that do the work really.
Clive
I bought a couple of these spring clips to replace the jubilee clips on my LPG connections which are very slightly weeping. I haven't gotten around to doing it yet though!
According to the parts diagrams there are two different types. Part numbers are: PYC101900 and AWR2724.
I put that type of clip on my lpg pipes, I had 2 that leaked, went back to the cramped type
Marty, how is the beastie running now?
It sounds great :)
Well, it's nearly got 1000 miles on it now, so it will soon be oil change time...
I will probably do the oil change in March when I am back from the next job due to head away again on Sunday for a couple of weeks) - and hoping to give it a bit of an all-over service - engine oil/filter, probably do the diff oils at the same time, and then also check/top up transfer case and the autobox.
The engine itself is running fine - fuel trims on petrol are all spot on, and it feels like it has a bit more pull to it, which is nice.
I tried giving it a bit of right foot a couple of weeks ago coming off a roundabout onto a dual carriageway/70mph stretch of the A419, and I couldn't get it to rev above 3K, even with my foot most of the way to the floor.. I don't think it's the engine though, but rather more the dumb autobox trying to hold it in a higher gear, rather than change down earlier and let the engine rev up.
I think I have most of the coolant/oil drips all sorted now (for the moment!) I ended up removing 4 of the sump bolts and putting a bit of sealant on the threads and refitting with a second flat washer, instead of the spring, as I think the threads of these go up into the bore for the cross bolts, and that was where the drips were coming from (it was the same pair of bolts on both sides of the sump)
Next step is to get the LPG all working again as it should... I have had it run on gas, and there are no sign of leaks which is good... but have a few issues to work out, but that will also be in March when I'm back.
When running on gas, bank 1 fuel trims are spot on - don't change at all, but bank 2 is all over the place. Yet I get misfires on Cyl 1,3,5,7 (bank 1). I have a feeling that the LPG injector wires might be back to front (though it's the way they have always been plugged up, so who knows!).. and I also think that there might be a couple of hoses with kinks in them on bank 1 (this side was pretty tight getting it all to fit when putting the upper plenum on). So my current thoughts are to swap the injectors from 2x banks of 4, to 2x banks of 2 - which will then nestle in a lot nicer in the gaps around the lower inlet, and this should then prevent any kinking of hoses/crushing of wiring.
I need to investigate the wiring where the petrol injector signals have been picked up, so I can work out if the LPG side is backwards (mine has the wiring all soldered/heatshrink in the vehicle loom, rather than the extra 'plug in' style).
Then it will be a case of setting it all up, getting it to auto calibrate, and see how she runs on gas...