I'm amazed you managed to do them in situ, my shovels won't fit behind there, especially with the lpg cooling and loom in the way,,

Mark, I've got a loom I use for connections and a complete loom if you need any bits, let me now

Thanks Chris- will do. What I DO need are a couple of the 8mm head bolts that hold the bottom of the coil pack bracket to the block, Had to use the Irwin on one which was rounded (amazingly it came out without snapping) and the other dropped somewhere into the bowels of the car. The bracket had been modded so there were no top bolts to hold it on.
Did you want that bulb and the NRVs? PM me your address if you do.
At the moment the loom looks repairable. It's chafed where it was bent around the rocker cover. The sheath is torn but apart from 1 cable which has the insulation abraded the rest look intact. Some adhesive shrink wrap will hopefully do the sheath.
More news today, I guess, once it gets light and I get back to workshop.

Aren't they 6mm thread bolts ? If so I have new ones in 10 mm spanner size. Sure I used them on mine. I'm good for bits, thanks anyway

Thanks Chris- found some stainless cap heads that I could cut down to fit so all good

Time to put plug leads onto Bank 2 now.
Now, if i remember correctly they're numbered (front to back) 2,6,4,8.

BTW- if you're reading this without knowing the sorry history the information above is factually incorrect
The order, as you would expect, is (front to back) 2,4,6,8

Summary of today:
Fitted coil packs to bracket. found bracket mutilated so could only use bottom bolts to fix. Located cap head 6mm stainless bolts that were too long. Had to cut down. Had to work out how to keep cap bolts on long 1/4 bar with suitable hex size end so I could get them into the bowels of darkness that bottom bolts fit into. Superglue proved best choice but had to experiment to get timing right otherwise they fell off or became too stuck to the hex adaptor. Coil packs and bracket fitted. Leads treble checked, then found couldn't get RH coil connector back on with bracket bolted down due to a stupid dome head nut in the way. Loosened off again, fitted connector then tightened again.
Fitted plug leads, paying a bit of attention to numbering!
Much time spent tracing LPG injector wiring. Found ignition powered supply from #1 injector then traced cable to a part of LPG loom that had a large bite out of the sheath. Agonised for a while about what I was likely to do to the car by cutting into the cable then turning ignition on to test for 12v without any of the engine electrics (MAF etc) connected, then went for it and found 12 volts switched. Repaired loom.
Knowing any more fault finding on LPG could be carried out past that point which was outside upper plenum, refitted upper plenum.
Earth trip popped again plunging me into darkness.
Restored power
Came home
Not much in a day considering Marty and Sloth can change an entire engine in that time...

It did take us 2 days to do the engine swap... Granted it would be quicker if we did it again, given a few of the tips like removing engine mounts and lowering everything to get to the annoying bell housing bolts.

Bolts/sockets - I use electrical insulation tape. Usually a bit stuck across the top of the bolt head, which when pressed up inside the socket, it gives enough extra stick/resistance to stop the bolt from dropping out. Not 100% effective, but a bit less permanent than superglue.

Locktite should come up with something to fix that problem. Or maybe they already have?
Gotta say Mr Orange, you're really getting stuck into that truck - I admire your determination!

You're right Marty- a bit of tape works wonders holding nuts/ bolts in a socket. Won't work with socket head (Allen type) cap screws though. The hole's too small :)
Determination Morat? You could call it that, but this is just the preliminaries. You're a personal inspiration to me to clean and polish the cr@p out of it. I've got the steam cleaner ready to do the seats and will swap the right/ left bottom squab covers while I'm at it. Have to take drivers seat out to do BECM swap anyway, so may as well pop out the rest and give them a going over, and, while they're out of the way, do the carpets too.
Front door panels have to come off to do latches so ditto!
My Gen III rf receiver arrived today. so rear panel will have to come out to fit that- more cleaning. May as well take other rear panel out for a going over at the same time, and rear carpet.
Much still to do- I'm saving headlining for Winter Camp as originally I seem to remember 3 or 4 people saying they wanted to do theirs.
Of course, first it has to run. At the moment I'd be happy to rag it around on petrol and deal with the LPG once I know nothing mechanically horrible is going to happen!

It's probably a good idea to run it on petrol for while so the Motronic adapts properly before you try and map the LPG.
I'm glad you can't see The Duchess at the moment, winter roads are not kind! Roll on Spring and I'll be able to do more than Karcher the underside...

I gave mine a power wash on the underside, but there is definite evidence of surface rust on bits of the chassis and rear axle - so i think I'll have to get under there at some point with a wire brush and some hammerite or waxoyl or something along those lines...

Well, it runs. on petrol
Sort of. Won't idle properly and hyper sensitive to throttle.
Faults reported:
P1000- Air flow to throttle angle cross check fault (cycle B)
P0505- Blocked IACV (cycle A) signal too low
Oddly, I get the occasional flash from the LPG (petrol) switch light as well.
I'll clean and lube IACV and see what happens...

The IACV is different to the GEMS style, as it uses an elctromagnetic force a (couple of coils effectively with a spindle in the middle) which it varies to hold the valve part in the right place.

It does get crudded up, and you should be able to feel the sprung splingle move freely when twisting the IACV by the body. If it's not moving, or not moving freely, then definitely needs a clean. I spray carb cleaner into them and then watch as it runs black out the other side as it dissolves the carbon and oil buildup.

Once it's all clean and the internal valve part moves freely, it should behave again. It could be the reason it won't idle happily.

Throttle... obvious one would be to make sure throttle cable isn't binding - but the fact it's coming up with a fault to me says it's worth pulling the TPS and checking on a multimeter to see if there's a place in the track it drops out.

Thanks Marty
Took IACV off. Spindle was moving freely but gave it another clean, just for the hell of it. Put it back on (having cleared faults). restarted car. Fault re-appeared! Still hyper sensitive to throttle (you couldn't drive it as just a little (and I mean a little) hand pressure on pedal sends revs jumping up.
Failed again on the air flow to throttle angle cross check fault as well.
Runs OK ish- obviously not at idle where it's all over the shop rev wise but likes to settle around 1200-1400. No missfires reported on Nano. 1 Cat fault but that was after it popped a bit when trying to settle its idle.
Petrol/ LPG switch comes to life occasionally, but not for long enough for me to be able to switch to gas. Just for fun, plugged in laptop to LPG when light was on and, very briefly, got a message asking if I wanted to save configuration, which I did as magically the 8 cylinder option had appeared.
Dissappointingly once laptop was disconnected from car, that config file had gone and I was left with a "no config files found" message :(
Getting somewhere slowly, I suppose...

Weirdly, while flicking through Nano I had a brief report of rpm at 900 (which it might have been by the sound) and demanded rpm 4800!
I'm still getting used to the Motronic Nano, which reports and behaves very differently to the GEMS.

What are the live values for the TPS, MAF, IACV etc?

IF the LPG software saved a config file to the laptop, then you can re-load it offline by going into 'load configuration' and then selecting the 5-6-8-10 cyl option, and then it should show the saved config file.

I'd test the TPS with a multimeter. Is the MAF a genuine Bosch one, or has it been replaced with aftermarket?
Have the adapative values been reset?

What are the fuel trims saying?

If the LPG is coming to life some of the time, then I wonder if there is another break in the crispy loom...

I'll report back the live values tomorrow
Tried the load config offline but didn't get as far as the drop down for cylinder numbers.
MAF is genuine Bosch- reporting very high grammes/sec (somewhere around 90 at idle)
Fuel trims are all over the place
Have reset adaptives
Crispy loom is top of my suspects list for LPG. More testing on that once I've got the idle to the point where I can step away from the key for any length of time with engine running without risking engine going into rev self destruct mode which it tried a couple of times. Caught it before it got past indicated 3000 as I was hovering by key expecting something strange to happen!
Taken a short day today, so away from car and workshop until tomorrow
Cheers
M

The MAF reading is well off then.

The Nanocom reports back in Kg/Hr, and on mine it will sit about 20-25 at normal idle. If you're seeing 90 at idle, then that will be where your ratio to TPS fault is coming from.

90g/sec if being read on another scanner (the ELM ones read 6/sec from memory) works out to be 324 kg/hr which is off the scale.

I would start by checking the MAF wiring back the ECU (for high resistance) as it's cheaper than a new MAF straight away - and if that checks out, then I'd be looking at swapping the MAF.

Rave shows the values for MAF as being:
At Idle...................... 20 kg/hr (5.5 g/s) +/- 3 kg\hr (8.3 g/s)
At 2500 rpm............... 61 kg/hr (16/9 g/s) +/- 3 kg\hr (8.3 g/s)
At 3000 rpm............... 90-100 kg/hr (25-27.8 g/s)

The at 3000rpm was from an AULRO post - so are you sure your 90 reading on Nanocom wasn't when it was hitting 3K rpm?

If it was hitting 3000 I wouldn't have been reading the Nano, I'd be jumping for the ignition switch! :)
I'm going to "pop in" the new original ECU and BECM so will check wiring back to ECU while I'm at it.
As I'm being hugely positive today I'm telling myself that a high MAF flow means no air leaks downstream of the MAF :)