Well, there may be a deal to be done if you have some late lightstone rear door cards with unsplit vinyl :)
Don't care much about "wood" insert colour 'cos I'd be fitting my black trims and chrome doohickeys anyway :)
Good advice on the DSP. I've got to dig behind the boot panels anyway, and a bit of preventative maintenance is what I love, especially as the DSP amp was new from LR around 2010 ish. If every connector I've opened so far is an indication, the rear ones are bound to be green as well!
I will have to check on the door cards, next time I'm at workshop... I have a bad feeling that I only have one rear one in the later style for some reason (came as extra parts when I bought the 2 rrs)
If I don't have door cards, then I'd still be interested in the stereo either way..
I'm sure we can work something out!
Like I said- no rush as I won't be hitting the rear door cards for a while yet.
From my experience with this gear selector cable so far, it's well worth checking it out if you've ever got the centre console out. The one I've just removed was gummed almost solid. It's going to make for a lovely light gearchange when I've got the new one in. It also explains why the gearchange knob was virtually twisted off due to the amount of force needed to change gear.
My gearshift cable is almost solid when getting below 'D'... I doubt I can even get it into '1' now..
I did try some lubricating oil down it, but doesn't seem to have made a difference... Did you buy a new cable, or have you just freed up the one that is in there with something?
If you got a new one - then any links on a reasonable priced one?
In theory you can inject oil or something similar using a hydraulic cable oiler, but they're nylon lined and when the lining wears all the lube in the world will make little difference.
Bought mine used from Furness for £23.00 inc N/D delivery.
Compared to £133 for a new part it seemed like a sensible choice as you can easily test it as soon as you open the box!
They're my supplier of choice for most things used. Parts are always clean, 90 days no quibble warranty (never had to use it though) and good quality.
Orangebean wrote:
Bought mine used from Furness for £23.00 inc N/D delivery.
Compared to £133 for a new part it seemed like a sensible choice as you can easily test it as soon as you open the box!
They're my supplier of choice for most things used. Parts are always clean, 90 days no quibble warranty (never had to use it though) and good quality.
May I nominate this for Link of the Year? Just had a nose through their site and they appear to have 95% of all the interior plastics I'd previously ordered from a certain medical person, and have since been looking for again.
Utterly brilliant. Thank you!
I've also found East Coast 4x4 Interiors http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/east-coast-4x4-interiors/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= good for plastics and trim.
The guy there is really helpful.
Bears out what I said about Sub speakers sounding good. No water damage and intact foam. Result!
Now to continue my dialogue with Grom, who are being very helpful about exactly how I can connect the BT-3. Unfortunately it looks like it might involve another £63 for a special DSP interface.
Ouch! Let me know how you go, it's something I've got on my Maybe if I Get a Payrise list....
It's all down to the spec of your system. If you have DSP and no nav you can connect into blue plug on back of head unit.
If you have nav and DSP you need to identify the connectors from CD changer to amp. If it's coax, you need the £63 BMW box of tricks. It might be 6 and 3 pin connectors or, if you're REALLY special and very rare (like mine) you'll have a 10 pin connector and need the BMW cable and have to change the pin assignments in the P38 connector.
They have said that the'll give me my money back if it doesn't work, so that's good.
_Morat wrote:
Ouch! Let me know how you go, it's something I've got on my Maybe if I Get a Payrise list...._
Huh? DSP interface? for what?
As far as I was aware, the Grom plugs in instead of the CD changer - which in both DSP and non-DSP systems feeds into the head unit...
I don't see why would would need any additional interfaces on the P38... It sounds like they might be talking about an L322, as even on DSP versions of the P38, the CD changer appears at the head unit on the blue mini-ISO connector....
As I've posted before (and the reason my DSP replacement project works) - the Alpine head unit on the later P38's is EXACTLY the same between DSP and non-DSP systems. The head unit must detect on power up (probably on the communication line) the presence of the DSP amp. If it's found, it drives that - if it isn't, then it drives all 4 outputs to each door/sub itself, and all the audio control is done in the head unit... Either way, CD changer on a P38 goes into the head unit - NOT the DSP amp...
That's what I thought Marty! But if you've got Nav the Grom cable replaces the blue plug at the head unit which, apparently the nav uses as well.
Solution is to fit Grom at rear into CD input to wherever.
Comms with Grom as follows:
_ If you have a sat nav head unit then a connection into the back of the radio is not possible (this is what we mean by "no navigation"), therefore connecting to the CD changer location is the only option. If you have a CD changer can you check to see what connectors it has. We would usually expect to see two separate connectors, one with 3 pins and another with 6 pins, however on some very rare vehicles you may find a 10 pin rectangular connector.
If you don’t have a CD changer or a sat nav head unit then the ROVER harness should connect into the back of the radio.
The BT3 kit is simply acting as a BMW CD changer so it's just a question of making sure you have the correct harness/connectors but as you have the DSP option this suggest you have a CD changer near the DSP module of which you would need our DSP conversion kit:
http://carputer-shop.co.uk/products/grom-accessories/bmw-dsp-conversion-kit.html
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Doesn't surprise me as the P38 Vogue SE was a production run of only 300 and shares the HK 17 speaker system (extra speakers in rear doors, boot and centre dash compared to the normal "High End" system) with the equally rare Westminster model
Looks like I have the 10 pin connector
Pic here:
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b407/waxdolphin/RR%20P38/Vogue%20SE%20A/20170321_110126_zpslo7nutqm.jpg
another here:
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b407/waxdolphin/RR%20P38/Vogue%20SE%20A/20170321_110040_zpscjy480hs.jpg
and lastly here- shows that only 8 out of 10 pins are actually used
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b407/waxdolphin/RR%20P38/Vogue%20SE%20A/20170321_105953_zpsplrfb4vp.jpg
So what will I need to make the BT-3 talk to my system?
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It is definitely an unusual one, in theory if that’s a BMW CD changer which it must be then the attached harness modification should allow any of our kits with the BMWT harness to fit (including the BT3 CDC kit).
Typically the BMW DSP system uses a co-ax cable that requires our DSP conversion kit, yet that 10 pin connector also carries sound suggesting that it’s not the kind of DSP module I was expecting._
I'm still a bit lost... I personally don't think the people at Grom (though can't fault them for their service and trying to help) have seen a late model P38 Range Rover or the connectors it has.
Factory Navigation in a P38 feeds straight into the DSP amp - mute line and audio lines. It has no connection to the head unit whatsoever.
If you look at the front of the vehicle at the blue connector, you should see the same 8 coloured wires coming out of the wiring to the connector as are at the CD changer - there's no addition Nav cables etc.
I could be wrong as I've never seen the Grom units in person, but you should just be able to use the standard blue Rover connection cable at the head unit to plug it in.
I have a DSP amp and Nav. But I'm not going to argue with either Marty or Grom :D
I've been studying your Alpine wiring spreadsheet for a while now and that's how it appears to me as well!
Well, as I've been told I'd have a 30 day no quibble money back guarantee there'd be an opportunity to try plugging it into the head unit first!
If that didn't work I'd just have to swap the blue Rover cable for the BMW one.
I'd certainly prefer the dash end location for the unit. It'd be a PITA to run the aux/ usb input and mic cables the entire length of the car.
I think they're talking about the L322 or BMW E39 with DSP setup, which is all done in the boot.
That 10 pin connector is the standard method of connecting the Alpine CD changer in a P38, so far as I am aware. Mine has it. It does look similar to the connector used at the head unit end of Alpine systems in E39s and I presume therefore the (at least early, before going coax and then fibre) L322s.
At the head unit end though, you'll find the usual blue square connector with three rows of pins that the GROM can be plugged into.
This is the CD changer connector on my P38. I have removed said changer and changed the trim panel for a non changer/sub one hence connector now flapping around.
There should be more to that connector, but it broke away when I removed it.
Thanks for taking the time to take the pics Sloth.
I've got a huge amount of respect for the work that Marty's done, producing pin-out tables for the whole Alpine system and his understanding of the system generally, so I'm going with the blue plug.
One important question though. Why are you wearing a condom on your finger? I think we need to have a man-to-man chat about what can, and can't, get women pregnant :)
I'm guessing the finger condom has something to do with brake lines... if I were a guessing man... haha
I did all the pinout sheets for the DSP system when I first got my RR (Was it REALLY 5 years ago?!?) because I had bits of the system missing, or not working - and it was more actually to aid me in fitting an aftermarket head unit...
Believe it or not... I have never ACUTALLY heard a P38 DSP system working.... my one was missing the DSP amp, and my '00 Vogue had the DSP amp, but it's toast, and hence has got one of my DSP replacement amp boards... (which the wiring charts were helpful for aswell!)
The way I see it... if it's meant to be able to work as an CD Changer input, then I don't see why it shouldn't work plugged directly into the head unit, vs at the other end of a long bit of cable!
I had a look on the Grom website with the DSP adapter you linked to, and I can't even think about where you would hook it up to on a P38... as Sloth says, maybe more geared towards L322/(Maybe X5?) and saloon models - maybe they changed the audio systems so the DSP amp handled ALL the inputs and switching.. The P38 DSP does Nav, and phone (if fitted) but luckily for us, the front end of it is still fairly standard..
I wonder if some of the changes on the 322 were because they went to an all-in-one unit for radio/navigation in the dash, rather than separate like we have?
Wait, is that not how you do 'it'? Crap! explains a lot...
It's to try and let heal what I end up doing to the side of my thumb that you can see - bad habit. They don't fit my thumbs though, need large ones... fnar.
Grom with blue plug ordered.
Marty- if the DSP amp is still working by Winter (now Summer?) Camp you'll be able to hear the full splendour of those 17 speakers rattling away :)