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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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that's good, i have a front cover with a bad oil pump, i can see cracks in the retainer for the pump, the motor also seized. not sure whether the case is ok but i kept it just in case i or someone needs it.

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thats good news Richard

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Got a front cover on the way from East Coast Range Rovers, an uprated oil pump from Turners and the rest of the bits from Island 4x4. Big ends are at +10 thou and all are slightly worn but no damage to the crank. So it'll be new bearing shells, new front cover and oil pump and a cam chain as the one on it is a bit floppy (can't find a spec anywhere of how much slack there should be in it, but it just looks like too much to me), I've got a brand new water pump I bought ages ago just in case so I'll fit that too. Front cover and oil pump will be here tomorrow, just got to hope Island are on the ball so I can get on with putting it all back together.

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What I've found with island is if the order qualifies for free postage it takes longer to come. 3 days if I pay and 5 if I don't.

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Recent stuff I've ordered from them has come in a couple of days. Unlike most of the other suppliers they don't send an email saying it has been dispatched, all I get is an email from the courier saying it will be delivered today. The oil pump from Turners and front cover from east coast range rovers will both be here today so I can fit the new oil pump and then just wait for the rest to arrive. As long as the bits are here by Saturday I'll have a weekend of joy putting it all back together and then it will be back to installing the LPG system.

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https://www.nk4x4.com/
@Gilbertd I also use this chap he based near you don't know if you've used him before

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As for timing chain slop, I think anytime you have the front cover off you should change the chain, unless you were just in there recently. I read somewhere that if it’s apart and the chain has over 30,000 miles on it, it should be replaced. My P38 had about 95,000 miles when I replaced mine and the power difference was noticeable.

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The air-conditioning service guy rolled up after lunch to find out why my system had stopped working so soon after the condenser was replaced in December. Turned out there was a small leak at the compressor drive shaft seal and a leak in the dryer to evaporator pipe AWR3277.

The compressor is merely going to be expensive but the pipe is officially discontinued and no longer available. Air conditioning guy suggested E-Bay was the only hope and showed me the only one currently listed. Google found several listings of the pipe from the usual sources but only Craddock implied they might have stock. Phone call revealed one left. I grabbed it!

I was surprised when the air-conditioner guy said that there is no one offering a service making air-conditioner pipes to pattern. When manufacturer stocks are exhausted thats it. Whatever the make. Seems odd to me. How difficult can it be to bend and flare alloy pipes.

Worrying.

At least I'll be sorted in early June.

Clive

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Or replace them with copper. Copper is used on domestic and industrial AC systems and it is easier to flare and braze than aluminium.

Is your car GEMS or Thor? I've got a spare GEMS compressor if it would help you.

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I did wonder if copper would have been OK on a car air-conditioning system. So if I got totally stuck rolling up my sleeves and making one from copper or, preferably, one of the more vibration resistant alloys like kunifer would be quite acceptable. Seems strange that nobody does such things. I imagine that brass would be fine for the threaded joiners. Surely to god they are standard. If brass won't do one of the bronzes ought to be fine.

Something to think about if Land Rover are not going to restock such things.

Actually Mrs Google finds a few firms who can make pipes to pattern so my air-con guy was wrong.

Thanks for the compressor offer but mine is a Thor. I'd be buying a new one anyway to be sure of seal life. The experiences of folk I meet round here with used compressors has been ahem mixed. Anyway with the big 70 due in July (they've finally forced me to get a photocard driving licence) I have to come to terms with it being OK to spend some of the money I've been saving for my old age!

Clive

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I install domestic AC systems and they run with 0.8mm wall thickness copper tube (in 1/4 and 3/8 inch for liquid and vapour) and run at 27 bar. The regulations say I have to leak test with Nitrogen at 42 bar and that is just using 45 degree flare joints with no sealing compound just a smear of silicone oil. Any joins in pipework are supposed to be brazed but I avoid that, it's one thing brazing two bits of pipe together on a bench when doing the training course but a completely different thing on an install. Compare that with an R134a car system that only runs at a feeble 10 bar. The pipes are fixed rigidly, it is only the connections to and from the compressor that flex which is why they are hose rather than tube. You'll probably know better than me but I would have thought copper would be better at withstanding a fatigue fracture than aluminium if the pipes did flex. I can't see anything wrong with using brass, all the fittings on a domestic system are brass anyway.

When I picked up the new to me red P38 recently, the AC compressor bearing was howling like a good 'un. There was a spare in the boot so I fitted that (even though I had a spare on the shelf anyway), bunged some Nitrogen in at 10 bar and it was leaking at one of the O rings into the compressor. Domestic systems don't use O rings so it isn't something I have but my mate who does mobile AC does so he dropped around and we put new O rings on it and did another pressure test. At 10 bar it showed zero pressure drop over 30 minutes so we declared it good. So not all used compressors are worn out.

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had my L320 sport mot'd Friday and passed after having few bits done took her for a long drive to Birmingham and back drove like a dream and didn't miss a beat