Just started running my rockers through an ultrasonic cleaner. Is wear such as this from the rocker shaft considered acceptable?
Also the grooves in the last image are not deep but you can catch a few with your fingernail just a little bit. The zoom makes it a bit more dramatic than it is.
All the rockers I've done so far have them. Considering the engine ran well before I pulled it there probably isn't much of an issue here.
I really appreciate you guys tolerating me thinking out loud through all of this. It's best if I just stick to doing the top end of my running vehicle and next year I can do more if I need to.
Got my cylinder heads back today. Skimmed 0.002" off the deck. He also replaced the guides, valve stem seals, and did a valve regrind then pressure checked them. I went to buy some some valve honing compound from him and he said I don't need it as that's the purpose of the grind and pressure check. The springs all were to spec so none were replaced.
Let's assume I want to rebuild my parts engine and swap it over rather than just use the cylinder heads for my running vehicle.
My question at this point is really just how much harder is it to do the bottom end of the engine. How about time wise?
I've been reading through it all and it doesn't seem particularly difficult. (Total arm chair response that!)
Cost wise the parts to do it all aren't really that big a deal considering the outcome.
I have an engine pulled from my old 1999 vehicle. The heads have been removed and I'm getting them machined. Still to be done is clean the 1999 rocker shafts up. The rocker arm surfaces look really good and I plan to reuse them.
There's also a 2001 that I daily drive. The problem with the 2001 is the head gaskets are going, it's drinking coolant, and I have a low oil pressure tick. I can't give a number but it goes through oil very quickly. I've not cracked the 2001 engine yet so I don't know how it looks inside.
Since I've not done this before and I have an engine free to rebuild how much more work is it to rebuild the bottom end of the engine? The cost breakdown from LRDirect it's not that much more... so maybe I should just do it all and then swap the entire engine over. If it's harder than it looks then I'll just stick to timing chain, water pump, cam, tappets / lifters, pushrods, cylinder heads on the 2001.
Thank you for the questions and advice. I'll get back to you on them all here shortly.
Hi all -
In the past I've mentioned planning the rebuild of a spare engine of mine off my parts vehicle and swapping that into my daily driver. Unfortunately I don't have as much time as initially thought so I've settled for only rebuilding from the cam "up". The main items to be replaced are the cam, lifters, and pushrods as well as the oil pump gears, timing chain, and the water pump. My parts vehicle cylinder heads are right now at the machinist.
The daily driver engine gives off a sharp smell (I wouldn't call it sweet), drips from the exhaust pipes, and has a noticeable leak near cylinder 2.
What all should a machinist specifically do to these heads? Like, what should I tell the machinist to not miss doing.
I had the rocker assemblies with me at the the time I was dropping off the heads. He looked them over and said the wear points on the rockers (the pushrod cup and the point where the rocker touches the valve) looked great and could be reused as is. My pushrods got mixed up and since they're cheap I threw them away. As mentioned the lifters are getting replaced, so if the lifters and the pushrods aren't mated to the rocker (by common wear points) is it true the rockers can be reused? He'll also test the springs but again said it's not a common LR failure point and they could be reused. Frankly he gave the impression that short of failure every bolt, washer, and spring could be reused and not to spend money unnecessarily. His opinion was that it was a very low drama engine, but I'm not taking advice from my housekeeper on how to rebuild my house so to speak. The guy is well regarded, knew the engine well, and seemed knowledgeable in person but I have no direct experience with him.
The rockers need to be shimmed?
The plan is to tear down the rocker assemblies, clean everything with an ultrasonic cleaner, and reassemble them. Is this wise and necessary or am I just making work for myself? If I do that how do you get the rockers back in exactly the same place? I figured on lightly scoring the shaft where each rocker should go. The engine has had an intermittent tick since I bought it so figured best to get all those oil passages as clean as possible. If the tick is caused by a slipped sleeve so be it, but usually it happens when I'm low on oil.
How much extra work would it be to do the rings and rehone the cylinder walls with a drill attachment? Youtube videos make it look straightforward.
I planned to stick with OEM cylinder head bolts. They're cheap and they've done the job thus far just fine.
Last question (for now!): Please advise which camshaft brand to go with: $57.09 from 'Original Equipment' sounds like Britpart.
Cheers!
Replaced radius and trailing arm bushings all around, as well as roll bar links and bushings, all with new OEM parts. Panhards and ball joints still to go. That might include rotors too b/c they’re all rusted on!
I also pulled the heads off my parts engine. Really glad to see that all 8 piston heads were nice and filthy, no evidence of steam cleaning whatsoever. They’re off to the machine shop tomorrow.
Done with both. Panhards and ball joints come next.
Pulled and swapped in new trailing arm bushes yesterday. My extra set of radius arms were also cleaned up and re-bushed as well. Those will get swapped in today.
I made the mistake of attempting to remove both trailing arms. The first come off easy enough but removing the last few bolts on the second was proving a complete complete bear. I realized that going about it this way the axle had naturally shifted a good deal counterclockwise and to yaw out.
Reinstalling the first arm improved the situation for the second arm and eventually I got the second pulled and freshened. I’m glad that’s done.
Here’s a trick Land Rover doesn’t want you to know about. The front radius arm tool isn’t quite deep enough to press in the trailing arm bushings without damaging them. This led me to searching around my garage for something suitable to use in the press. I tried quite a number of things to no avail. (The best was a piece of wood with a Costco peanut butter lid for extra rigidity.) While staring off into space trying to think of what to do next I noticed the radius arms. Where the radius arm connects to the chassis are a set of rubber grommets held together with two metal cups. The larger of the two cups is a perfect, PERFECT, fit to adapt the LR press tool for the rear bushings. The cup part towards the bush kept the bushing moving properly. When it’s almost seated flip it over for the last little bit. Was extremely pleased with myself for that.
Will post pictures and part number link (assuming there is one) when able.
Does anyone want schematics for the LR press tool?
Right.
Now I am speaking for my local town and not the entire USofA but I don’t think any municipality in this country has anything even half what’s involved for the MOT. That doesn’t mean every other car is belching black smoke and running on failed shocks. It’s not like that at all. :)
Where I’m at annual inspection really comes down to meeting pollution requirements. The test is nothing but a computer with connector to the OBD port and it reads what the car tells it while you’re idling. If your car fails that test twice you’re only required to spend up to $250 at a licensed ‘special’ mechanic towards getting it to pass. There’s a form which they have to sign, and it doesn’t even specify what was done. Most of the mechanics will happily sell you their signature and send you on your way. In most cases that’s probably cheaper than fixing the issue but still.
dave3d wrote:
Dave3d, the material around the skylight has a small plastic “clip” of some kind to cover the seam. Both of mine were missing it, so I don’t even know what it looks like but if you do and could duplicate it that would be really awesome.
Well I've ordered oem bushings, nuts, and a few extra things. Passed on the bolts as thankfully I was able to save all mine off the parts rig.
Why they made a 12-point bolt that's a 1/2 inch thick for the panhards over a standard 6-point is something I'd like to ask LR about.
Also, I was under the impression all the bushing sleeves were metal, like the defender video I linked at the top, but they appear to be plastic. Just complaining b/c I spent 400 bucks on friggin' rubber bushings. Hehe
Pulled manifold and plenum off my parts engine. Took the injectors to a local place that does nothing but injector cleaning thinking it would be cheap. $35 USD / injector. FTFU, Sir. Cheaper to buy the upgraded injectors that clean the existing ones. Have those on order now.
Next paycheck I buy all my bushings and a press. My extra radius, panhard, etc are all ready to go. Impulse bought the front radius arm tool. Thankful I don't have to learn how to press bushings on my daily driver.
In closing, I've found a local place that will machine my heads for $200 - $250 each which includes everything. Not bad for big city prices. Knew the engine and didn't get excited about it.
I don’t know what shipping would be but for some things it might make sense to look at the US eBay. These are $50 USD and like new. We just don’t have the corrosion issues.
If you’re shipping into the US:
- LRDirect - cheapest and the fastest option, even with S&H!
- Amazon - every US supplier represented. Occasionally better.
- Atlantic British - expensive and slow. Excellent instructional videos.
- Determine Bosch, NGK, Avon, Delphi, Dunlop part numbers and use those. Circumvents unnecessary LR tax. With that Amazon usually wins.
- Local commercial suppliers. Calling around for random things like quality 6mm air line (in the US). Free advice.
Apologies all for not getting back to this sooner. I've not had much Rover time of late but really do appreciate the advice.
I'm going to start on this shortly and will update once parts have landed.
I believe this to be the full list:
4x ANR2563 - Front Radius Arm to chassis - pg. E24
2x ANR3304 - ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS
2x ANR3305 - ANTI ROLL BAR BUSH
4x ANR3332 - FRONT RADIUS ARM BUSH
4x ANR1191 - FRONT RADIUS ARM BOLT
4x ANR1000 - FRONT RADIUS ARM LOCKNUT M12
2x ANR3671 -> RBX101340 - FRONT PANHARD BUSH
2x ANR4386 - FRONT PANHARD BOLT
2x ANR3140 - FRONT PANHARD NUT
2x ANR3285 - REAR TRAILING ARM BUSH
2x ANR1187 -> ANR6920 - REAR TRAILING ARM BOLT
8x ANR3140 - REAR TRAILING ARM NUT M16 FLANGED HEAD NYLOCK
2x RYG101340 - REAR TRAILING ARM BOLT M16 X 110
2x ANR3313 - REAR TRAILING ARM BOLT M12 *NLA (REUSE)
Howdy all,
My next project will be replacement of the various bushings starting with those on the radius arms and pan hard rod. I'll eventually do them all.
In a general way, when removing these is an air hammer w/ a bushing attachment too aggressive?
When watching this youtube video I'm wondering why he's made his own tool and choosing to hammer them out by hand.
JMCLuimni wrote:
Beowulf, nice work removing that ‘bra’. My P38 has it and it’s impossible to get off.
I have given up on it such is the pain in my hole the task has become.....
Thanks! I encourage you to watch this video I found and check my parts list for what I used. Once I got the technique down it went quick. I did half Saturday and the other half on Sunday b/c I was getting annoyed.
The Rover bra was much thicker than the one in the video and it took far longer. I started by heating an area the size of an index card in a circular motion at about 1" of distance on Option 1. Say 30 seconds of heating followed by scraping as much off as possible. Repeat. The bonnet / hood was HOT to the touch but the scraper nor the heat damaged it.
At just right temp the bra would 'shave' off leaving very little residue. Too hot and the glue smeared, not hot enough and only a little material got removed before it cooled.
I came back later w/ a microfiber cloth soaked in gasoline to get the remaining glue.
This was the technique I used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNjnt6HPYrs
My tools list:
Heat gun - https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-56434.html
Flimsy plastic $0.80 spatula - https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-Plastic-Joint-Knife-DS20/202038667
Clean microfiber cloth soaked in gasoline.
Next will be a cut and buff / clay bar / waxing jobby.
Any harm in welding them in? I was thinking just a quick touch or two.
While removing the side steps off my parts vehicle the very last rivnut decided to slip. I was able to cut the bolt off and it's good in a way this happened otherwise I would have just assumed the frame was threaded. My '01 has the holes but no rivnuts. Are they special 'rawlbolts' or just your standard 10mm rivnut?
Discussed here: https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/rivnuts-for-fitting-side-step-brackets.24096/#post-213856
There's not much clearance under there. I'm looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Heavy-Riveter-Thread-250PCS/dp/B01NAGIY6X/ref=psdc_15708911_t4_B07Y698HSN