Epic! Congratulations! Is that the white P38?
Cleaned the 3M bra junk off the front of my P38 on Sunday. I used a plastic joint knife, a heat gun, and gasoline.
And I changed the oil.
You guys think I should stay with the basalt 'RANGE ROVER' emblem or go silver? I bought the silver ones already but my friend has almost convinced me to leave it. The Safari's and nerf bar are also waiting to go on too, if you think that matters.
I'm wondering what the next few steps should be in the rebuild. Should I bother pressure testing the block if it's going to be re-sleeved anyway? My next planned task was to degrease it and then start tearing it down in preparation for pulling the sleeves. If none of the piston heads are steam cleaned that would be a good sign that the sleeves are still intact?
The engine did pass a combustion leak test, and also it never ticked. The issue was that it was drinking a ton of coolant, and coolant was starting to drip off the oil pan bolt. I don't remember how much exactly but it overheated once b/c I wasn't watching it. Maybe even 4 liters a month but I really don't remember now.
Thanks, as always.
You guys were right except it was the obvious bolt opposite side of the starter.
Trans and transfer case tomorrow. Pulling axles, diffs and radius arms too. Coulda had it all today but, ya know, summertime / beer / friends.
Gilbertd wrote:
This https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hycote-Bumper-Vinyl-Paint-Black/dp/B005NGZYJI/ is what I use but as I say, you may not be able to get it in your location
For sure and I know I've asked about this before. The Hycote Bumper Vinyl on your white P38 certainly looks right as does GeorgeB's. I've got the product most people use here, as well as the prep products. I just don't want it to look stupid and I can't fix it later. I should probably just do it and get it over with. haha
GeorgeB wrote:
Today, we've gone from this...
via this...
To this...
There, that's better.
Went on a treat as well. Lifted up, pushed and everything lined up lovely.
So that's front and rear bumpers done, new rear light lenses on, so she's looking tidy outside. At least until the next sidecar hits it.
Time to start on the inside now.
What product and paint type did you use? Is it satin black or flat black, etc. I need to do both of mine and that color looks great.
A quick update... Not questions per se. Got to the point of actually pulling the engine today and we couldn’t get the transmission and engine to separate. It was getting late so we had to stop. I’ll review everything and start again next weekend.
We initially thought the issue was not removing the lower engine mount bolts , since I had done the top ones but that wasn’t it. Got the four 13mm bolts connecting the flex plate to the torque converter, all 8+ bolts on the bell housing, all trans cooling lines (I think).
I realized the transmission was left in Park and not Neutral. Does that matter? The transmission, transfer case, and diffs will also be pulled.
Gilbertd wrote:
Not on the list but I always take the radiator out too. With that out and the fan and viscous off, you've got acres of room at the front (and less chance of damaging the radiator). In case you may want to use the gearbox, jam a bit of wood into the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to stop the torque converter falling out of the gearbox.
Will do.
Looks like it should be straight forward then. I'll update with pictures!
Thanks all.
This is US but I've had a $50 Tekton 1/2" torque wrench now for a few years and it's stayed accurate enough for my home use needs.
Hi all,
I've got a 1999 NAS Thor P38 as a part's vehicle and this coming weekend I plan to pull the engine. I'll rebuild it in my spare time and later install it in my 2001 P38. The parts vehicle is on standard height wheels and rims, and springs not bags. I'm wondering if a standard 2 Ton (Imperial) engine hoist will have a long enough boom for the engine to clear the front end. This being my first engine removal ever I'd like to get to the job and not loose the weekend running around spending time and money if that makes sense. If the first step is to pull the springs, pull the wheels, and cinder bock the axles to get it low enough I'd like to know that before the engine is dangling there!
So far I've reviewed RAVE as well as leftlanetruckin's check list - Engine removal/reinstall procedure w/ check list. All seems straight forward enough.
On a side note, initially I'd planned to also pull the tranny and the transfer case; Rebuild all three, and later install them in my 2001. But they're big and heavy and I'll be doing this all on my back. Is it worth it?
Always appreciated!
I reached out to the shop owner. He replied that I’d have to talk to his vender about it and to email again on Monday.
To further clarify I'm interested in rebuilding the pump body and replacing with new the accumulator, pressure switch, and motor. What do you guys think?
Greetings and a Happy Friday from the US...
The ABS booster on my daily driver 2001 P38 has started running almost continuously. For example, at a stoplight with my foot on the brake it won't stop running until I take my foot off the brake. Otherwise I hear it about every 2nd brake push. Looking at the PO's receipt box the accumulator has about 90k (miles) on it so that's likely the cause but it could also be the switch.
I also have a 99 P38 that I need to dispose of finally so I'm thinking I could rebuild that one's ABS booster and swap it in to my 2001. On eBay I see a guy selling 'rebuilt' ABS boosters for $800 USD. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STC2783-RANGE-ROVER-P38-ABS-BOOSTER-PUMP-REBUILT-COMPLETE-UNIT-95-02/
This caught my eye and the reason why I'm asking: "PUMP IS REBUILT WITH NEW SEALS, RACES, PISTONS, SPRINGS ETC." I notice the accumulator he's using has a flat finish so it's definitely aftermarket.
Is that something I can do myself? Replacing with an OEM accumulator, pressure switch and the motor would run me about $400 USD.
Thanks everyone!
Hello fellow P38 owners. Just saying a quick hello for now as I also sorta / kinda move over from the other forum.
I own a 1999 Thor which is now a parts vehicle and a 2001which has been my daily driver since I bought it about 3 years back.
When I got the 2nd RR I went through and took all that I had learned from the first truck and off the forum and and replaced all the usual issues, including the entire coolant system and all the hoses before they could bite me. Since then I really just drive the thing and enjoy it. Just swapped it back to EAS as well!
Many of you, on the other forum, have really been a big help when it was needed. A big thank you for that.