The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
77 posts

Are you talking this for the cheap LHD door latch?


I owned two P38s for a time and maintaining them both did get a bit expensive. But I also didn’t know nearly as much about them as I do now. Eventually I parked the second and used it for parts and as a reference, and that worked out great.

So if this vehicle is priced right I’d take it regardless of your plans.

Hi Morat, I’ve got this one and can confirm that with one of the included adapters it threads on to the test port without any problem. The extra hose length is nice for watching the gauge while you’re in the cab cycling the engine. Came in a terrible plastic pouch thing but it doesn’t get used much.

I’m sure they sell this or a clone just like it which ever continent you’re on!

Actron CP7838 Professional Fuel Pressure Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009XQUKC

Post cylinder head job I had a coolant leak at the T that sits near cylinder 2. Well I finally looked at it and found the 3 hose clamps there were just tight enough to keep from moving around but otherwise doing nothing. It's been two days with no leaks and a steady coolant level in the reservoir.

Completed my replacement of the water pump and the head gaskets. While I was there I also did an SAI delete.
The vehicle started up w/o issue and after a week the engine has smoothed out nicely. I have a small but steady coolant leak from one of the small return lines just left of pistons 2 and 4. I'm going to wait and do it when I replace the heater core o-rings.

Thank you both! I plan to try again late tomorrow my time.

I’ve tried using a sledge on the wheel at the end but as I’m not familiar with how delicate this all is I’ve been holding back. The wheel does not appear to come off the crank even with the 6 hex head screws taken out.

Tearing a 4.6L engine down to get cleaned up for a rebuild. Everything is out except for the crank and all the mains have been unbolted and removed. The last remaining main, right at the rear of the engine is unbolted but I can’t get it out. The main will flex though if I pick the other end of the crank up.

The pictures only show the two upper bolts as removed but I did get the one on each side as well.

enter image description here
enter image description here
enter image description here

Almost done with my head gaskets and water pump replacement. Gaskets had failed on the outer edges of cylinders1,2,7, and 8. I wasn’t able to locate the exact source of the coolant leak but it was definitely the water pump itself that was leaking. The water pump may have been original based on the receipt records. Basically all that’s left now is the crank pulley, belt, fan, and reinstall the radiator.

Took the time to do an emissions delete on the SAI heads. Hoping a 5 ohm resister on the hurricane fan will confuse the ECU enough not to throw an error code.

Here’s some pictures from earlier in the job.
enter image description here
enter image description here

Completely behind on my head gasket job but at least I got my spare engine almost fully torn down.

Replaced the muffler the other evening along with the accompanying hangers. Unfortunately that cocked the RHR silencer such that it now catches on the tire and makes a bit of a grinding sound.

GeorgeB wrote:

Rented a house today, with bloody huge garage.

That is all.

What you meant was you rented a bloody huge garage, with a house attached.

Glad for you!

Gilbertd wrote:

Beowulf wrote:

  • The pistons can just be tapped out the top of the engine block? How do you remove the carbon ridge? Using my finger nail I don't really feel any ridge.

If you don't feel a ridge then do as the book says, and just tap them out. Make sure you've got a ring compressor for when the time comes to put them back. That's one of those tools that gets used so rarely you can never find it when you need it but find it a couple of days after you've gone out and bought another.

Because the existence of a ridge could damage the rings? And if the old rings are being replaced anyway it wouldn't matter? I'm assuming there's no risk of the bore being scored such that wouldn't be resolved by the later ball hone?

These questions must seem so elementary!

Sorry Gilbert, I saw the broken images too after posting and went back and fixed them. In the meantime I see you also have been by.

Thank you, Mad-as! 20 thousands metric or imperial? Me thinks 20 thousands of an inch would be way too much.

Hi all,

My parts engine is almost torn down with only the connecting rods and crank still to be removed. Before I remove them I wanted to check w/ you all first on a few points.

After the engine is torn down it will be tanked and the oil and coolant passages cleaned out. The machinist will also check the cylinder liner bore and ball hone the cylinders if appropriate. All in all the block looks to be in excellent condition, the crosshatching in the cylinders is still very clear, the tappets showed literally no wear and the cam lobes only some.

My questions:

1/ The pistons can just be tapped out the top of the engine block? How does one remove the carbon ridge? Running a finger nail across the top of the bore I don't really feel any ridge.

2/ The piston connecting rods use 12 point bolts where they connect to the crank. A 9mm is too small while a 10mm was a bit loose. Are these imperial? Tomorrow I'll scout for a 3/8" 12 point socket. Is there an order they need to be removed in? No order is mentioned in the manual.

enter image description here

3/ Regarding removing the crank, the six hub aligner screws are really on there. Removing them is made more difficult by the crank not being locked. On page 36 of the engine rebuild manual, where it covers removing the crank, step 4 says to "Remove 6 socket head cap screws securing hub aligner to crankshaft, remove hub aligner." I was thinking it wise to have the machinist check the crank for wear and balance but should I bother removing this hub aligner? It isn't necessary to remove the crank from the block. One could stick a piece of wood in the crank galley to lock the crank against assuming that won't somehow damage the crank. That's doubtful as the crank looks extremely robust.
The image of the crank was from earlier in theday, it was flat on the ground when I was wrenching on it. :-)

enter image description heret
enter image description here

4/ The rebuild manual doesn't mention a specific order that the main bearing bolts need to be released by. Ditto for the big end bolts I mentioned previously.

It's my first tear down and so I've never seen any of this first hand before. Here's a few more images I took while documenting the process. Thank you all for your assistance!

enter image description here
enter image description here
enter image description here

I've known for awhile that my vehicle's engine was in need of a head gasket replacement. I took the long route and have been slowly (that is to say mostly ignoring) rebuilding a spare engine properly while also ignoring the steadily worsening head gasket on my daily driver. Unfortunately it's gotten so bad that tomorrow I'll be replacing the water pump and doing all the o-rings and gaskets that come in a P38 head gasket kit. Well, the spark plugs and air filter too - but no more than that! I'm hoping I can get away with this quick and dirty method long enough to get my project engine finished.

The other day my girlfriend gave me a long look while commenting on how nice and presentable a 4 Runner looked ... I say F*** that.

Cheers! Saves me some trouble then.

Hylomar is available in a spray can now. It’s very handy stuff. :)


My head gasket kit arrived today. Unfortunately the valley gasket is bent in a few places. The bent edges aren’t creased just bent. Would it still be usable? I ask mainly because I had planned to start Tuesday and I don’t know that I can get a new one before then.

enter image description here
enter image description here
enter image description here

My next step will be writing something in javascript that does the url change over automatically but this works for now. It just occurred to me that maybe an extra button added
under "new post" would be more appropriate and an easy intermediate step until image hosting is up.

The original idea was taken from this blog post .

Hi all, here is my way for hosting images for free using my existing Google Drive.

To utilize this method you must first have a GMail account.

You start by uploading an image to Google Drive . If you have a GMail account you get this for free.

Once the file is uploaded left double click on the file listing, which in turn will open the image, then click on the three dots, and then "Share".

enter image description here

Click on "Copy Link"
enter image description here

You'll see you have a link that looks like this:


Change it so you have this instead:

In your forum post click on Image and paste that URL in. There you go.
enter image description here

Separated my extra transfer case and transmission so they'd fit in the back of my rover. These had also been in storage along with my extra engine (see my last post). A local transmission shop took them off my hands for free.

Using an engine hoist I lifted the transfer case up while hitting the mating point with a sledge and the spindle slowly slid out.

With the impeller removed the transmission is very light but I wouldn't be surprised if the transfer case weighs more than the engine.

enter image description here