The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
77 posts

Tearing a 4.6L engine down to get cleaned up for a rebuild. Everything is out except for the crank and all the mains have been unbolted and removed. The last remaining main, right at the rear of the engine is unbolted but I can’t get it out. The main will flex though if I pick the other end of the crank up.

The pictures only show the two upper bolts as removed but I did get the one on each side as well.

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Hi all,

My parts engine is almost torn down with only the connecting rods and crank still to be removed. Before I remove them I wanted to check w/ you all first on a few points.

After the engine is torn down it will be tanked and the oil and coolant passages cleaned out. The machinist will also check the cylinder liner bore and ball hone the cylinders if appropriate. All in all the block looks to be in excellent condition, the crosshatching in the cylinders is still very clear, the tappets showed literally no wear and the cam lobes only some.

My questions:

1/ The pistons can just be tapped out the top of the engine block? How does one remove the carbon ridge? Running a finger nail across the top of the bore I don't really feel any ridge.

2/ The piston connecting rods use 12 point bolts where they connect to the crank. A 9mm is too small while a 10mm was a bit loose. Are these imperial? Tomorrow I'll scout for a 3/8" 12 point socket. Is there an order they need to be removed in? No order is mentioned in the manual.

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3/ Regarding removing the crank, the six hub aligner screws are really on there. Removing them is made more difficult by the crank not being locked. On page 36 of the engine rebuild manual, where it covers removing the crank, step 4 says to "Remove 6 socket head cap screws securing hub aligner to crankshaft, remove hub aligner." I was thinking it wise to have the machinist check the crank for wear and balance but should I bother removing this hub aligner? It isn't necessary to remove the crank from the block. One could stick a piece of wood in the crank galley to lock the crank against assuming that won't somehow damage the crank. That's doubtful as the crank looks extremely robust.
The image of the crank was from earlier in theday, it was flat on the ground when I was wrenching on it. :-)

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4/ The rebuild manual doesn't mention a specific order that the main bearing bolts need to be released by. Ditto for the big end bolts I mentioned previously.

It's my first tear down and so I've never seen any of this first hand before. Here's a few more images I took while documenting the process. Thank you all for your assistance!

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My head gasket kit arrived today. Unfortunately the valley gasket is bent in a few places. The bent edges aren’t creased just bent. Would it still be usable? I ask mainly because I had planned to start Tuesday and I don’t know that I can get a new one before then.

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Hi all, here is my way for hosting images for free using my existing Google Drive.

To utilize this method you must first have a GMail account.

You start by uploading an image to Google Drive . If you have a GMail account you get this for free.

Once the file is uploaded left double click on the file listing, which in turn will open the image, then click on the three dots, and then "Share".

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Click on "Copy Link"
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You'll see you have a link that looks like this:


Change it so you have this instead:

In your forum post click on Image and paste that URL in. There you go.
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As the title says should new exhaust manifold studs (TE110051L) be coated in anti-seize or a high temp locking compound like Loctite? The internet seams to contradict itself on this subject. I'm asking b/c I'm in the process of replacing my catalytic converts as they were stolen (cut out).

I've not located in RAVE the correct stud bolt torque value if anybody has that though I'm sure I'll find it here soon enough.

Off topic, but could threaded rod cut to length and bolts on each end work just as well?

Hello, I know there was a post on here late last year on this subject but I can't find it now ...

I'm looking for a friendly soul willing to receive some small parts for me and then forward it all to the US.
Specifically I'm looking at new EAS NRVs and a set of blower motor resistors. The parts are small and I'm not in a hurry.
The issue I'm having is the seller of the NRVs won't ship out of the UK. I'd also like a few sets of Valeo blower motor resistors which are very cheap in the UK but very expensive to ship or unobtainable on the US side.


Hi all -

In the past I've mentioned planning the rebuild of a spare engine of mine off my parts vehicle and swapping that into my daily driver. Unfortunately I don't have as much time as initially thought so I've settled for only rebuilding from the cam "up". The main items to be replaced are the cam, lifters, and pushrods as well as the oil pump gears, timing chain, and the water pump. My parts vehicle cylinder heads are right now at the machinist.

The daily driver engine gives off a sharp smell (I wouldn't call it sweet), drips from the exhaust pipes, and has a noticeable leak near cylinder 2.

What all should a machinist specifically do to these heads? Like, what should I tell the machinist to not miss doing.

I had the rocker assemblies with me at the the time I was dropping off the heads. He looked them over and said the wear points on the rockers (the pushrod cup and the point where the rocker touches the valve) looked great and could be reused as is. My pushrods got mixed up and since they're cheap I threw them away. As mentioned the lifters are getting replaced, so if the lifters and the pushrods aren't mated to the rocker (by common wear points) is it true the rockers can be reused? He'll also test the springs but again said it's not a common LR failure point and they could be reused. Frankly he gave the impression that short of failure every bolt, washer, and spring could be reused and not to spend money unnecessarily. His opinion was that it was a very low drama engine, but I'm not taking advice from my housekeeper on how to rebuild my house so to speak. The guy is well regarded, knew the engine well, and seemed knowledgeable in person but I have no direct experience with him.

The rockers need to be shimmed?

The plan is to tear down the rocker assemblies, clean everything with an ultrasonic cleaner, and reassemble them. Is this wise and necessary or am I just making work for myself? If I do that how do you get the rockers back in exactly the same place? I figured on lightly scoring the shaft where each rocker should go. The engine has had an intermittent tick since I bought it so figured best to get all those oil passages as clean as possible. If the tick is caused by a slipped sleeve so be it, but usually it happens when I'm low on oil.

How much extra work would it be to do the rings and rehone the cylinder walls with a drill attachment? Youtube videos make it look straightforward.

I planned to stick with OEM cylinder head bolts. They're cheap and they've done the job thus far just fine.

Last question (for now!): Please advise which camshaft brand to go with: $57.09 from 'Original Equipment' sounds like Britpart.


Howdy all,

My next project will be replacement of the various bushings starting with those on the radius arms and pan hard rod. I'll eventually do them all.
In a general way, when removing these is an air hammer w/ a bushing attachment too aggressive?

When watching this youtube video I'm wondering why he's made his own tool and choosing to hammer them out by hand.

While removing the side steps off my parts vehicle the very last rivnut decided to slip. I was able to cut the bolt off and it's good in a way this happened otherwise I would have just assumed the frame was threaded. My '01 has the holes but no rivnuts. Are they special 'rawlbolts' or just your standard 10mm rivnut?
Discussed here: https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/rivnuts-for-fitting-side-step-brackets.24096/#post-213856

There's not much clearance under there. I'm looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Heavy-Riveter-Thread-250PCS/dp/B01NAGIY6X/ref=psdc_15708911_t4_B07Y698HSN

Hi all,

I've got a 1999 NAS Thor P38 as a part's vehicle and this coming weekend I plan to pull the engine. I'll rebuild it in my spare time and later install it in my 2001 P38. The parts vehicle is on standard height wheels and rims, and springs not bags. I'm wondering if a standard 2 Ton (Imperial) engine hoist will have a long enough boom for the engine to clear the front end. This being my first engine removal ever I'd like to get to the job and not loose the weekend running around spending time and money if that makes sense. If the first step is to pull the springs, pull the wheels, and cinder bock the axles to get it low enough I'd like to know that before the engine is dangling there!

So far I've reviewed RAVE as well as leftlanetruckin's check list - Engine removal/reinstall procedure w/ check list. All seems straight forward enough.

On a side note, initially I'd planned to also pull the tranny and the transfer case; Rebuild all three, and later install them in my 2001. But they're big and heavy and I'll be doing this all on my back. Is it worth it?

Always appreciated!

Greetings and a Happy Friday from the US...

The ABS booster on my daily driver 2001 P38 has started running almost continuously. For example, at a stoplight with my foot on the brake it won't stop running until I take my foot off the brake. Otherwise I hear it about every 2nd brake push. Looking at the PO's receipt box the accumulator has about 90k (miles) on it so that's likely the cause but it could also be the switch.

I also have a 99 P38 that I need to dispose of finally so I'm thinking I could rebuild that one's ABS booster and swap it in to my 2001. On eBay I see a guy selling 'rebuilt' ABS boosters for $800 USD. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STC2783-RANGE-ROVER-P38-ABS-BOOSTER-PUMP-REBUILT-COMPLETE-UNIT-95-02/
This caught my eye and the reason why I'm asking: "PUMP IS REBUILT WITH NEW SEALS, RACES, PISTONS, SPRINGS ETC." I notice the accumulator he's using has a flat finish so it's definitely aftermarket.

Is that something I can do myself? Replacing with an OEM accumulator, pressure switch and the motor would run me about $400 USD.

Hello fellow P38 owners. Just saying a quick hello for now as I also sorta / kinda move over from the other forum.

I own a 1999 Thor which is now a parts vehicle and a 2001which has been my daily driver since I bought it about 3 years back.

When I got the 2nd RR I went through and took all that I had learned from the first truck and off the forum and and replaced all the usual issues, including the entire coolant system and all the hoses before they could bite me. Since then I really just drive the thing and enjoy it. Just swapped it back to EAS as well!

Many of you, on the other forum, have really been a big help when it was needed. A big thank you for that.