Gordonjcp-adm wrote:

Aw man I work in Hamilton but I'm crazy busy right now. Will you survive a couple of weeks with it the way it is?

Sure. The dash lights haven't been working for months now. I have gone right through absolutely everything with it and this is hopefully the last bit of the puzzle to sort it out. Hopefully.

Yep, that's exactly what needs to be done. I am unable to do it.
Thanks

Hi folks,

Can someone recommend a really good sparky that could do a small bit of work for me on my P38? I just need a couple of the connectors removed/replaced and soldering. I can travel within reason but need the job done asap.

Cheers

Craig

Bolt wrote:

And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacement

Perhaps you should learn to read what is very clearly written, instead of responding the way you have. Here is my response way before your comment that addressed that very point.

"May 31, 2021, 5:03 PM #6

I jumped the starter fine yesterday but the car wouldn't start at all. All that was happening was a click. Today? The starter motor is doing nothing at all. I guess that answers my problem, or does it? I can't get under the car easily myself so, with that in mind (if that is the problem) then I'm goosed right now."
So thanks for nothing.

leolito wrote:

Well, I am alos gearing towards a tablet-type device, but I think after 5 years there could be something else newer in the market ... these old posts are misleading, not from their technicality, but for their age!
When I first got the P38 I found an AVIC FT500, praised among some as the perfect fit, and it might still be, but now is a piece of ancient machinery ... good just for the museum.
There are tons of products in the market though, and choice is a difficult matter :-/

I'd be happy with an older item because I haven't found a newer item that 100% fits in that space (satnav). Most of the newer devices have a screen larger than 7", which is all the room you get. Just because something is ancient it doesn't mean it won't work properly. All I need is Bluetooth connectivity, wifi, and 32GB+ memory that is at an affordable price for me. If that means buying an older device then I will.

Thank you gents. I've decided I'm going to replace the starter regardless. At least that way it will lessen (hopefully) the chance of it failing any time soon. No, I don't have deep pockets to just throw money at the car but I would be happier knowing the part is new, and then if there are any problems it's under warranty. Do I know if doing that will fix the issue? No not 100% but I've tested everything else that is in the chain. I know the battery in the car is at least 4 years old. It is still holding charge but again for peace of mind it is worth changing as well.
I know the starter motor in the car is from 2001(I have a huge file full of receipts going back over 15 years. Strangely though no receipt for a new battery and the previous owner was methodical in keeping receipts.) so the way I am thinking is that it wouldn't hurt to replace it. Then I can recondition the original starter and keep it in my in-car emergency toolbox for the future if it's ever needed. I'm going to need a larger toolbox...........

GilbertD it was actually a comment that you made on another post back a while ago where you said exactly that. That has led to me thinking this would be the better way to go sorting this issue and being prepared for it in the future.

I jumped the starter fine yesterday but the car wouldn't start at all. All that was happening was a click. Today? The starter motor is doing nothing at all. I guess that answers my problem, or does it? I can't get under the car easily myself so, with that in mind (if that is the problem) then I'm goosed right now.

Sloth wrote:

The thread you linked to was for an earlier P38 with a GEMS engine - those don't crank when the immobilisation sync between BECM and engine ECU is lost, unlike a Thor (which yours will be, being a 2001). A Thor will crank all day but just not start.

To not crank at all, is a bit odd, if it isn't showing any disabled messages. If the remote is locking and unlocking properly too, then it really shouldn't be an immobiliser issue. As above, if the dash display is showing P for park, it should crank.

What happens if you bridge the starter relay to make it crank yourself with the ignition in position 2? Any signs of firing?

Thanks. I always get the two confused. Nope, no sign of starting at all.

BrianH wrote:

The one thing I can't see you having said you've done, is checked the XYZ switch (which would only apply if its an Automatic)?

Does the gear display in the dash and lights on the stick indicate the right gear? The Nanocom will tell you the positions of the 3 switches and Rave will tell you what they should be in each gear. If it doesn't see either Neutral or park, it will not attempt to start.

Hi Brian & thanks for replying. Yes the car is an automatic (I always thought all non-diesel P38's were automatics) indicates the correct gear. However, to make sure I did go through every gear position to see if it would start in any of the other ones. When we parked it up at the final place it was driving perfectly and everything was working as it should do. This is why this is really strange.

Today, 31/05/2021 I have kicked my car because it won't start. Tomorrow..........................what car?

SpiggyTopes wrote:

Wow, thanks!

The bootloader unlock code arrived yesterday, but I won't need it if your link works ....

This is already a great forum I think.

Hi SpiggyTopes. I know this post is from a long time ago now but how did you get on with the install of this so it starts up the moment the external power is applied to the device? I've been searching everywhere but for the ASUS device you first mentioned.

Regards

Craig

Hi folks. I found a post from Gordonjcp-adm from a few years ago on the forum here. It is the first one I have come across where someone has said exactly what is happening with my car right now. I have the exact issue as Sloth has described here in this link https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1591-gems-no-crank-no-start#content "So the car appears to be behaving normally - no EKA or disabled message, and the BECM is firing off the mobilisation code - it's just the wrong code".
I've searched all over for a fix but I haven't found any that don't involve spending a small fortune(I really couldn't afford any of them even if I needed to.) on other devices in the links provided in that original post.

So what has happened and what led up to the issue. Yesterday 30/05/2021 my wife & I went for a drive in our 2001 4.0 HSE. We started and stopped several times without any issues. Then at what was, unfortunately, our last (unplanned) stop, we got back in the car to go off elsewhere but the car just wouldn't crank over. In the end, we called Green Flag and they sent someone out to assist. We went through everything I had tried as I have listed below. In the end, we had to get the car lifted on a flatbed from Preston Mill near Edinburgh to our home near Lanark (Scotland).
So here is where I am up to in trying to solve this issue:
Battery checked and is at +12.45v. Checked relay & fuses. Relay is clicking. Jumped relay pins for starter motor and it works as should.
Clicking from under passenger seat when trying to crank. Engine check light is on when in position 2 - as it should be.
No warning on the dash saying the engine is immobilised.
The key battery is relatively new & no messages saying the key isn't synced. No EKA notification for entering code. No code saying key needs synchronising.
What have I done to try & resolve this?
I hit up RAVE for troubleshooting and tried a few of the things it says today & without success. I put the key in the ignition, turned to position 2 & pressed the unlock button. Door latches all clicked as they should when the car is being unlocked. I turned the key to crank & still nothing. I then performed a remote lock and within 30 seconds performed a key unlock. No change. I have scanned forums for similar but all those I did find didn't have the check engine light on when the key is in position 2.
Plugged in Hawkeye to see if there are any faults but that was a negative. I don't have Facebook to ask on there either so can't ask there. I really am at a loss. I forgot to mention I also only have one working key fob. I do own a second one but no matter how many times I tried it just wouldn't sync with the car. So I haven't needed to use it in the 4 years I have had the car.
I truly am at a loss for solving this. So if someone can come to me & solve this for me or at least point me in the correct direction to take to get the car running again it would be greatly appreciated. It's our only car and we need it running asap. I hope I have covered all of the steps one would expect people to have tried. If not then please let me know.

Thanks in advance.
Craig

Gilbertd wrote:

Your local Land Rover dealer......
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fvf10002l-clip.html

Thanks Gilbert. I always forget the main dealers.

For anyone else the method I used was gaining access through removing the door trim enough to enabvle access, removing the weather strip (along the top of the door trim). Then I bought a flat head screwdriver with a blade stem that is 45cm long. Smashed the top of the lock which released the spring (which didn't go flying off anywhere). From there it's a simple cased of removing the latch from the door (no it isn't).
To removed the latch you need to remove the 3 rods that are attached to it. 1 of them comes off very easily by removing the green piece of plastic that holds it in place. Then there's the lock that goes to the key barrel. I found the best way to remove that was to remove it from the barrel itself then bring that rod and the lock button rod out with the latch. The cable to the inner door handle is really simple to remove and replace wihthout issue (unless you break the plastic that secures it in place like I did, oops).
Happy days.

I couldn't have done it without the help of you guys here, so thank you.

Well after finally getting the right gear together to get the drivers door open we are in! Happy days......................until we accidentally broke a clip for the cable from the inner door handle to the latch (found in link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113178756747?epid=1613798072&hash=item1a59fac68b:g:9lMAAOSw3gJZLWis). Does anyone happen to know where I can get one from that isn't so expensive?

Thank you so much everyone. I'll be takling this over the weekend. I think I'll be putting on my things to do list all of the other door latches just to make sure they all operate correctly for many years to come.

Regards

Craig

Thanks Dave

davew wrote:

First Craig it would have been best to post in the 'Electrickery' section, but that's the least of your problems.

Sounds like your 'Superlock' is permanently engaged, probably the servo/solenoid for this has failed or the electrical circuit to it has malfunctioned...

If so the 'butchery' necessary involves first winding the window fully down and breaking open the top of the (plastic) lock module...
A two-foot 1/4" sharpened rod works well.. Hints; You can see it all better at night, and protect the glass !

Thanks David. To be honest that's where I thought I had posted this. Apologies for that.
I just watched a video that shows the internals of the latch and all I can think of is the teeth have been worn off or broken off somehow or other.
I was thinking the last ditch effort was similar to what you have said but removing the glass first if I could get in there somehow. I just don't trust myself when it comes to the glass plus it would give a bit more room.
There was someone else saying the rear door has to be removed to allow access in to cut the striker. I don't have the facilities at hand to do that sadly.

Hi folks,

I'm a long time reader and I don't post here often, I do however read through the posts but my knowledge with these cars is still limited. However, I do require some assitance please.
As the title says I have a 2001 P38 Range Rover whose drivers door latch is stuck in the locked position. I have removed the door trim as far as I can (I think) to get very limited access to the latch. Now there are two leavers on the lock that I have tried moving, 1 is facing the interior of the car & the other is facing to the outside of the car. Moving these has not helped in being able to unlock the door. If I need to butcher the trim then so be it but I really need the door opening & closing properly. Plus I've found someone on ebay who is selling both the door trim & the latch which I am happy to buy if need be but I can't afford right now the £200+ required for a brand new door latch right now.
So my questions is this. How can I completely remove the trim whilst the door is shut and also even if I did manage to remove the door trim what am I missing with regards to the latch itself?

I really need the car sorted because I need to tow my caravan this weekend to a storage site and as it stands right now I'll need to immitate the Dukes of hazard. Which would be a horrible thing for everyone else to see, especially if I had to wear Daisy Dukes................

Help me Ranger Roverkenobi's, you're my only hope.

Thanks in advance.

Craig

Oh btw I'm in Scotland near Lanark.

P.S. how do I post a picture? I tried and it said something about a hyperlink.

What have i done to my Rangie? Well today i found a great big crack running up the exhaustfrom the centre box to the rear. So I have ordered a fall replacement for that minus the centre box. Not gonna have one.
Yesterday I replaced the front anti roll bar drop links. That was a fun job. I just need to finish that by replacing the polyurethane bushes. Can't do that as the bolts are rusted on. So I'll be spending the next few days spraying those with wd40 and attacking them with the wire brush to hopefully loosen them. I also replaced the tailgate straps which was a nice simple job.
I need to find a black rear bumper one day as well. Someone decided hitting us in the right rear quarter was a good thing to do. Right now though funds are gone due to the exhaust. Yay.

So the to do list is growing. Which would be a strange thing if it wasn't with these cars.

G'day Luke & welcome.