Hi folks,
Can someone recommend a really good sparky that could do a small bit of work for me on my P38? I just need a couple of the connectors removed/replaced and soldering. I can travel within reason but need the job done asap.
Cheers
Craig
Hi folks. I found a post from Gordonjcp-adm from a few years ago on the forum here. It is the first one I have come across where someone has said exactly what is happening with my car right now. I have the exact issue as Sloth has described here in this link https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1591-gems-no-crank-no-start#content "So the car appears to be behaving normally - no EKA or disabled message, and the BECM is firing off the mobilisation code - it's just the wrong code".
I've searched all over for a fix but I haven't found any that don't involve spending a small fortune(I really couldn't afford any of them even if I needed to.) on other devices in the links provided in that original post.
So what has happened and what led up to the issue. Yesterday 30/05/2021 my wife & I went for a drive in our 2001 4.0 HSE. We started and stopped several times without any issues. Then at what was, unfortunately, our last (unplanned) stop, we got back in the car to go off elsewhere but the car just wouldn't crank over. In the end, we called Green Flag and they sent someone out to assist. We went through everything I had tried as I have listed below. In the end, we had to get the car lifted on a flatbed from Preston Mill near Edinburgh to our home near Lanark (Scotland).
So here is where I am up to in trying to solve this issue:
Battery checked and is at +12.45v. Checked relay & fuses. Relay is clicking. Jumped relay pins for starter motor and it works as should.
Clicking from under passenger seat when trying to crank. Engine check light is on when in position 2 - as it should be.
No warning on the dash saying the engine is immobilised.
The key battery is relatively new & no messages saying the key isn't synced. No EKA notification for entering code. No code saying key needs synchronising.
What have I done to try & resolve this?
I hit up RAVE for troubleshooting and tried a few of the things it says today & without success. I put the key in the ignition, turned to position 2 & pressed the unlock button. Door latches all clicked as they should when the car is being unlocked. I turned the key to crank & still nothing. I then performed a remote lock and within 30 seconds performed a key unlock. No change. I have scanned forums for similar but all those I did find didn't have the check engine light on when the key is in position 2.
Plugged in Hawkeye to see if there are any faults but that was a negative. I don't have Facebook to ask on there either so can't ask there. I really am at a loss. I forgot to mention I also only have one working key fob. I do own a second one but no matter how many times I tried it just wouldn't sync with the car. So I haven't needed to use it in the 4 years I have had the car.
I truly am at a loss for solving this. So if someone can come to me & solve this for me or at least point me in the correct direction to take to get the car running again it would be greatly appreciated. It's our only car and we need it running asap. I hope I have covered all of the steps one would expect people to have tried. If not then please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Craig
Hi folks,
I'm a long time reader and I don't post here often, I do however read through the posts but my knowledge with these cars is still limited. However, I do require some assitance please.
As the title says I have a 2001 P38 Range Rover whose drivers door latch is stuck in the locked position. I have removed the door trim as far as I can (I think) to get very limited access to the latch. Now there are two leavers on the lock that I have tried moving, 1 is facing the interior of the car & the other is facing to the outside of the car. Moving these has not helped in being able to unlock the door. If I need to butcher the trim then so be it but I really need the door opening & closing properly. Plus I've found someone on ebay who is selling both the door trim & the latch which I am happy to buy if need be but I can't afford right now the £200+ required for a brand new door latch right now.
So my questions is this. How can I completely remove the trim whilst the door is shut and also even if I did manage to remove the door trim what am I missing with regards to the latch itself?
I really need the car sorted because I need to tow my caravan this weekend to a storage site and as it stands right now I'll need to immitate the Dukes of hazard. Which would be a horrible thing for everyone else to see, especially if I had to wear Daisy Dukes................
Help me Ranger Roverkenobi's, you're my only hope.
Thanks in advance.
Craig
Oh btw I'm in Scotland near Lanark.
P.S. how do I post a picture? I tried and it said something about a hyperlink.
I was just told by my wife to join this group. So hi. She was talking to a bloke called Gordon at the servo up in Hamilton. He also has a P38 blacky likes ours.
Anyway it's good to see groups that aren't FB.
Cheers
Craig