Gilbertd wrote:
That'll do it, although is probably a bit overkill. One of these would do nicely https://eleshop.eu/rf-explorer-wsub1g.html.
Yeah, but I'd have to buy that, rather than recover it from a dusty corner of the workshop store ;-)
Mine's just developed an odd fault. If you turn the key to III all the accessories shut off like you'd expect, but the engine doesn't crank. It's exactly like it thinks it's not in N or P but the dashboard says it's in Park. If I jumper the starter relay, the engine will turn over but there's no spark at the plugs, presumably because it's "too smart" to fire the ignition if it's not actually being started on the key? Although that being said, I thought you could bump start manual V8s, so that kind of makes no sense. The ignition switch seems to deck the appropriate pin on its connector.
It's too dark to really check if all the supply rails are present but that's my next port of call.
Any other thoughts?
I've actually just swapped it for another one that seems to have cured the problem, round at Miahs, while we were doing the head gaskets.
Sloth wrote:
The banner picture, the intro... I mean... the whole thing has clearly been thrown together by someone that doesn't have a clue.
Oi, I resemble that remark :-D
So looking at that there's a big plate where the pedal box goes and the steering column. I wonder if you could fit an LHD steering column and box and LHD pedal box to make a fully dual-control P38, like how aircraft have two yokes...? :-D
I got stainless Allen bolts and they were much easier to cope with - especially the one that's hidden by the steering column, where you can chop the end off a "ball end" Allen key and fit it into a suitably-sized socket to get the right angle on it.
Maybe it's cos Boris Johnson's in, the CIA is sensitive about intelligence sharing with the Brits now
I can confirm that the CIA have not contacted me to divulge information about the mysterious secret lives of folk who post on rrpub and rr.net ;-)
But given that its supposed to be commercial now it could either be going tits-up or trying to pivot to a subscription service.
You're welcome to pay a subscription if you like, mine's a pint thanks.
Not-logged-in users get Google ads, which at the current ad impression rate will pay for about four months of hosting every year, which is better than a poke in the eye with a burnt stick. Most ad impressions are to the Russian spammers that seem so adept at signing up.
dave3d - I did drop you an email but I guess it's been spamfiltered or something. If you can stick it in something like Google Drive that's probably easiest for now.
There's plenty storage space ;-)
If anyone complains that I'm infringing their copyright then I will take steps to remove the offending links.
Here's a list of handy things to download, collected into one place. Add suggestions if you've got 'em!
All forums are inherently crappy but kids these days don't like Usenet :-D
Your links are working fine.
what is the most commonly owned but unused item in a P38 owners workshop?
Tin of turtlewax :-D
If you've not got grinding paste in the garage
I've got grinding paste in the shed
I guess most folks under 45 haven't,
What year is this? <checks driving licence> Awww ffs...
When the motors failed in my front door locks, I just disconnected them and wired in some cheapy aftermarket door lock actuators that I mounted a bit further down the door. You have to be careful to pick somewhere that the window won't foul them but where you can still get the actuator rod up to the sill lock rod.
The driver's side motor has packed in, so at some point I'll need to get that apart and redo whatever bad connection is causing it.
Is that filter doing what I suggested a while back, listening for P38 fob preamble and only gating the output on if it hears it?
Depending on how smart it is, I might have a very cunning solution to the "non-programmable key" issue...
The O-rings are easy, you can do them in about 45 minutes. If you've got a left-hand drive version it ought to be even easier, since the pedals aren't in the way.
Surely "Ignition Tamper" would be down to the ignition switch rather than the fusebox? The BECM reads the switch and decks a pin to pull the starter relay in, it's not wired directly.
Not really an issue for us P38 folks since it doesn't have one... :-)