Hey Brian, Thanks for the response. I know this isn't really the place to be talking about Discos.
Yes this was an eBay "tested, working" latch. Wanted to be sure, so I tested it mechanically and the switch contacts on the bench. The latch felt a little funny somehow but not bad. I cleaned it up and lubed it, it felt better and worked smoother.

Installed it and it didn't close or latch, so I adjusted the strike out and put a shim behind it. Well it closed, latched and door alignment was fine. Hasn't opened since.
It locks and almost unlocks with the key. It will unlock fully with the inside release. It will not unlock fully pulling up on the lock sill button. It will lock with the remote but not fully unlock with the remote, only almost unlock. The same with the Nanocom and the dash pushbutton.

I still have the door card off and have the exterior rod and interior cable disconnected so I can operate the release levers by hand. None of this has helped.
At this point it feels like the release levers are no longer doing anything. I have tried putting pressure on the door from both the outside and inside, tried operating the super lock and lock motors with the Nanocm. It is stuck and will nor release.
I have given up and tried cutting through the strike but I can only cut the front rod. The rear one is too close to the B pillar and I have nothing that will get to it.

I'm completely out of ideas and tools to break into this thing except to cut a hole in the door so I can hack away at the latch until I can get to the cam that engages the strike.
Then buy another door, have it painted and get a new OEM latch.

Just thought I'd post to let all those who have been sitting on the edge of their sofa waiting for the next installment of this saga.
The situation is resolved. I buckled and gave up on trying to keep it as original as possible and took KCR And Aragorn's advice. I picked up a later model AMR5700 and threw the two AMR1173s in a box.
I soldered up an adaptor harness with the correct connectors and it works now.
Just got back from a short 14-mile test drive and it seems to be holding speed and reacting well.

Thanks for the help guys. Now if anyone can tell me how to get my D2 drivers door jammed latch un-jammed, so I can get into it that would be great. Me thinks that's a question for a different web site though.

I take drives to Abilene KS. every 6 or 8 weeks to pick up Greyhounds to foster. Thats about 3 hours round trip. That will be a much better test.

Yes KCR, I've seen that mod/upgrade and the dongle for sale to do plug and play. It's a fine idea and I will have no problem doing it, it's just that sometimes I can't quite something until I feel I have all the facts and answers I can get.

Richard thanks for the updates and confirmations. What you suggested is essentially the path I am going to take. I'm waiting for an inexpensive AC adaptor for the Scopemeter to arrive, so I can cut the cord with the correct, rather interesting pin connector on it and solder it onto a cigar lighter plug for 12 volt operation. I don't have enough extension cord to reach much more than about a 1/4 mile of so. :-)

Long story short this P38 has been a pit of despair ever since I bought it and had it shipped 860 miles from out of state. I refuse to give up on it because it's a rather rare Callaway edition. Only 220 made at the end of the GEMS production run.
It was taken very good care of during the first 12 to 15 years of its life by Land Rover dealers but the remaining years receipts are from a shop that I wouldn't let work on a lawn mower.

Among other things the cruise control has never worked since I've owned it. Checked all the common things first, vacuum lines, brake switches and valves, diaphragm, steering wheel switches etc. etc.
Started running through the rave troubleshooting flowchart and the only thing I don't seem to have is the road speed signal. Everything checks out fine. I even replaced the converter/inverter and ecu with used ones just to see if it made any différance.

So I would really like to do my best to isolate the problem to the BeCU or not before I pull it out and send it back to the UK. Turner or Call Rova maybe and probably have the Rangie down all winter. It will be too cold to reinstall it and I don't have room in my garage for another Rover.

Hows that for a short story. Chapter II next week.

Thanks for all the info guys. I know about the AC signal from the wheel sensors feeding into the ABS. Wasn't too sure where the conversion to the pulse waveform was being done, ABS ECU or BeCM but I figured it had to be a DC PWM from what I have been able to gather.

I haven't been able to figure out if the road speed signals to the cruise and the ATC are on a separate buss or just different pins on the same buss. If the same buss I'd almost think the transmission would be having issues of some sort as well. But there could be other components in the circuit to consider. The signal to the GEMS ECU I believe is carried across the data buss.

I dusted off the old Fluke 93 scopemeter and plan to do some measuring when I can make a 12 volt power adaptor for it. I've also bought an old function generator that can output a pulsed waveform and I will try to set a spare cruise ecu up on the bench for testing.

I may also be trying my hand at casting Delrin or Acetal gears to replace the third compound spur gear that fails in the Valeo servo motors. Wish me luck.

Okay......So I know this is a pretty old post but I thought it better to continue it rather that start a new one or steal someone else's.

Among other things I have started working more deeply with the cruise control. Following the troubleshooting flowchart in rave I have tested and retested the circuits to and from the cruise control converter/inverter and ecu.
Everything works well and consistently. The issue I'm having is reading the road speed input on the cruise ECU C243 pin 11 or at the BeCM C255 pin 20.

C255 pin 20 is the road speed output to the Cruise Control ECU, C255 pin 10 is the road speed output to the ATC ECU. The test says 5 VDC at standstill and approx. 2.5 VDC when turning one road wheel by hand. I get 0.042 mV at rest and a very unstable 0.046 to 0.049 at speed. Now not assuming anything about the BeCM I also checked the road speed to the ATC ECU and got 0.48 VDC

Has anyone else ever measured these outputs with a multimeter and if so what readings did you get?
I have an old scope I think I will drag out in the next couple of days and see what I can discover. The only info I can find about it is that it is a "pulsed waveform". Not much to go on in the grand scheme of things.

Well I figured out what was wrong. Pretty easy to discover.
Both replacement servos had stripped gears. They're both headed back for a refund.
In the meantime I'm leaving the two recirculation servos disconnected which will show open circuit errors in the controller. I don't usually use recirculation since I smoke cigars and prefer the fresh air setting.
Right now the right-hand side is stuck in fresh air and the left is stuck in the recirculation position.
I read somewhere that if a fault is detected with one the servos then it will prevent all of them from moving. I'm hoping that the blend and distribution servos keep working independently of the recirculation servos.

Hey Gilbert, thanks for the reply. Either you're up early or late. lol,

Flash update. The spare (used) servos I bought showed up, so I've been out trying things and problems are moving.
I have had the glove box out and there is nothing I can see to do with it. What I've read is that you are supposed to be able to get at the blower housing bolts through the pollen filter after removing that box, which you have to do anyway to pull the seal through and back into the intake box. What's not been made clear is if the bolts are inside the vehicle or outside in the fresh air box. I need to remove a pollen filter to check.

In the mean time I hooked up the motors to the harness and using the NanoCom tried clearing errors and calibrating the recirculate doors. The error cleared and test book went away but came back again. This time saying that the left servo was open circuit, I plugged both spare motors in and neither one of them move when calibrating the recirculate or blend door servos.

I have some figuring out to do..........

Hey all.
I haven't found a post on this here but have read a few on other sites. They're sketchy at best.
I have a Recirculate door Servo motor that has gone bad on my LHD right-hand blower which of course puts it firmly up against the wall of the right-hand inner body structure.
RAVE says to pull the entire fascia. I've read the shop time for this is 12 hours labor. I can believe this. I have read tales of others being able to change this servo by loosening and moving the blower housing over enough to get at the two screws, but no detail or even if they were working on a RHD or LHD vehicle.

Does anyone here have any experience with doing this? Any advice or ideas?

Thanks for any help that you can offer.

No offense taken really Richard. We have history. Just felt I needed to explain my point in detail for some reason.
What I should have probably said was "Hey, it runs, and it is even pushing air out the hole. I don't know if it's enough yet or not but I'll find that out when I need to."

The Direnza radiator is doing great by the way. And I haven't forgotten your help in getting it to me. It does look a little odd and even somehow disappointing maybe that it doesn't look more like an OEM but the performance is well worth it. We've already seen from 14° F to 104° F and the temp gauge has been steady as a rock.
Good to know my thermostat is working too.

Just to clear things up. I do have experience repairing and maintaining manufacturing and industrial equipment in many plants in Texas, Washington State and Kansas. I was a primarily and controls and instruments electrician but very often was deeply involved in the mechanical aspect as well.
Most recently I retired from Spirit Aerosystems as an electrician in the fuselage department where they build up and assemble all variants of the 737 fuselage into complete airframes and I worked daily with 9 and 12 axes automated riveting gantries and C-Frame machines that drilled and filled +/- .003 across the length of a 25-foot window panel.
Some of these machines were Brotje from Germany some were GEMCOR from the US. I've worked on Swedish, Italian and probably a few places I don't even know about over the past 37 years.

So just, so we understand, "blowing air" is just a turn of phrase. I know it takes pressure and volume to make pneumatic devices work properly and when I get the connectors, tubing and gauges together and installed I will have that info.
I'm also not dead set on "Made In The USA". I do like to support the US when it makes sense but other countries often times make superior products. I like German engineering and detail. I but Russian or British vacuum tubes for my vintage stereo gear. I feel they are better products.

Just needed to say that this morning for some reason. I'm feeling much better now thank you.
And by the way....I think my foster Greyhound may be going to a happy home this evening.

Huh, and all this time I thought Arnotts were the coolest thing since sliced bread. Just goes to show ya'.
I'll probably end up with Dunlops but the ones from Germany kind of intrigued me.

The ring for holding the motor brushes worked a charm. Thanks, Richard. I didn't realize it was plastic. It has the color of metal but there's no room to fiddle with it enough to really know unless you take the PC board out or break one. Any way pump runs fine with two wires direct to the battery, fused of course just in case. Blows air but don't know if it's enough or not. Also, I haven't plugged it back into the harness yet to see how the thermal works.

I'll have to pick up more fittings and rig up a pressure gauge and quick fill for the tank as well as end caps for the lines then check the valve block. In the meantime still working with driving light wiring and going to get started on blend motors next.

Thanks for the replies guys.
I have a full set of Arnott Gen. II's if I recall on the other P38 that has been sitting on the bump stops for almost 12 years now. I was thinking of just doing a swap over between the coils and air springs between the two vehicles but I remember not being all that overwhelmed with the ride after installing them. But I also replaced the shocks and tires (yes I'm across the pond) at the same time and those were probably the more likely suspects for the ride quality.

You know it never occurred to me that the ring may work to hold the brushes back. I'll give that a shot. I was more concerned about having a piece of metal flopping around in the back of the motor possibly shorting out the commutator.
I did check the thermal both across its pins and at the plug end of the wires and it is definitely a closed circuit as it should be. The compressor turns freely but I'm still a little suspicious of the pole to pole readings I'm getting on the bench so It may not be turning electrically and acting as a toaster instead.

Hello all, haven't posted in a while. I've been driving the Rangie all winter and so far this summer. I've parked it for various minor catch up repairs and driving the Disco instead.
I have the front and rear screen washer pumps and such sorted as well as the cruse control. Working on Hella driving lamps and EAS components now.

This brings me to the question. In checking components to prepare for the swap back to air springs and running through things with Nanocom the compressor didn't run. The error is "Thermal Switch Over Temp". I pulled the compressor and took the motor apart. Found a fair amount of carbon but the brushes still look good. I've cleaned everything up with electronics cleaner, cleaned the commutator slots and gave it a gentle polish. The thermal switch is reading closed with an ohm meter. I don't much like the readings on the pole plates, but I was going to put it back together and give it a try when I noticed a ring in between the PC board and end bell of the motor. It's just loose and moving all over the place.

The O.D. of this ring is stepped. The inner step fits into the hole in the PC board perfectly and the outer step won't let it pass through. It seems that is where it belongs but I don't see what is supposed to hold it there.
Any ideas?

While on the subject of EAS parts does anyone have any experience with a company out of Germany called "AEROSUS"? Prices look good to me.

Thanks for looking

I've just about stopped replacing surrounds in drivers. It's really far too tedious to do.
You have to be certain the voice coil that is mounted to the driver cone stays absolutely centered within the tiny air gap between it and the magnet that drives it.
If your very careful and you check it frequently the spider will generally keep it centered. I have always done the inside surround to cone gluing first then
after that is dried you can glue the outer surround to the frame and evenly and gently weigh down the very center of the driver without deforming the dust cap until dry.
If this air gap is not maintained the voice coil will rub against the magnet wearing off the varnish insulation and shorting it out.
Could be that's what happened to your amp.

I installed a set of these in my Callaway. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs165-4-6-1-2-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-198 Sound great.
I used a pair of Tangband drivers from the same outfit in my super end of year clearance "S type" 4.0 and they sounded surprisingly good for being a slightly smaller driver.

The Dayton's were a direct drop in fit. Holes lined up, size was perfect. Sorry but the Tangbands were so long ago that I can't retrieve the info for them but I did have to
make small adaptor rings to mount and properly seal them.

A word of note. I pulled my passenger door card the other day to replace my latch assembly and discovered that the surrounds were disintegrated on the midrange
driver. From experience, I don't need to look to know the other three are bad as well so in my search to find a reasonably priced mid I purchased two pairs of these
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R3032CM/Infinity-Reference-REF-3032cfx.html?cc=07 Can't tell you how they sound yet as I'm still waiting delivery on both the speakers and the door latch from LRD.

All functions work on both of my P38's. It's just that this one is just on the cusp of not releasing the locking rod and is most difficult at it's lowest position.
I have my lamps changed out in the instrument pod and troubleshooting done in the steering nacelle. Just have to glue one more broken bit of plastic on and then apply spray lube liberally to the affected linkage and see if that does the trick.

 Thanks for the reply my friend. You're right, normally it doesn't need to be adjusted, much. In my case if my back is acting up more than normal I sometimes adjust the seat and lumbar for less pain and that sometimes requires an adjustment of one notch up or down of the wheel to keep the instruments in good view.

The problem with it getting stuck in the lowest position ls that I've found it helps to have it as low as possible when removing the instrument binnacle and pack. I try to release the lock at the second notch from the last one but now and then I slip.

I don't see any obvious holes or other points for lube, so I'll just try working it back and forth while spraying a good quality lube on it.

 It's been a while since I've posted anything. I have been trying to fix a few things on the Callaway and did manage to get the engine compartment fuse box swap completed. Everything else has been, like that was, another rabbit hole. The problems become huge mazes of more problems that have been badly patched or disabled like removing the brake, traction control and anti-lock warning lamps from the instrument display which we all know points to the three amigos.

 Anyway getting to the reason I'm posting today. The release for the tilt mechanism in the steering wheel is very dodgy. It is usually somewhat difficult to release and if it gets into the lowest position it takes a great deal of time, patience and effort to release it. I sometimes think it may be stuck there forever.

 There are two parts to this control lever. 1) A cable which I believe loosens the locking clamp for the telescope function and 2) A bar and pin which I believe is the release for the tilt spline. I don't see any obvious worn or bent parts so my question is does anyone else have this problem and does anyone know of any lubrication or adjustment that can be done to make this work better?

Well that was kind of my point. Sometimes, in my experience anyway, RAVE fails to mention things because they assume you know and sometimes it's because that isn't the case. So you just have to spend an afternoon looking or ask someone.

Thanks, with your help. It's been located.