Greyhound5. Hello, I'll keep the intro short though as many of you will know I tend to ramble.
I've been invited here by a friend that I think many of us share a mutual admiration for from THE OTHER FORUM. The user name change isn't so much a ruse, though from the sound of it it might not be a bad idea I just got tired of using a handle that I chose at the drop of a hat rather than one that reflects something about me.
So yes I rescue retired racing Greyhounds (only one at a time now) I also have a large Mini longhair Dachshund that was my mother's until she passed a couple of years ago. Other interests include analog stereo from the 60's to 80's. I never got out of vinyl so there was no revival for me. I am stepping back into open reel tape after having gotten swept up in the digital age starting back in the mid 80's for all practical purposes. I have added a TEAC and an AKAI both full auto reverse 10.5 inch decks to my system to fill that part of my quest.
I live in the US and have had to work everyday for my money so mostly I've driven Fords with the occasional Buick thrown in, a few Volkswagens and a couple of MGs because that's what you do when you have to buy car parts quickly and inexpensively, you drive whats common.
I've always been in love with many of the old British badges. Not so much now that they have either disappeared or been sold off. I worked for British Leyland as a light mechanic back in 78-79 and got to drive many great cars. But Land Rover was one that has always been a favorite of mine.
I own three Rovers now (time for the giveaway) a 99my Range Rover S in Rioja Red. This ones been sitting in the garage for 8 years now with a destroyed motor caused by a slipped liner. A 2003 Discovery HSE7 (which I won't be mentioning in my posts) runs great unfortunately I broke a rather important piece of plastic that holds the center dash in place and haven't worked out how to fix it yet and a 99my Range Rover Callaway #123 in Niagara Grey.
Well I'll stop there. I did say I wouldn't ramble didn't I?
It's been a while since I've posted anything. I have been trying to fix a few things on the Callaway and did manage to get the engine compartment fuse box swap completed. Everything else has been, like that was, another rabbit hole. The problems become huge mazes of more problems that have been badly patched or disabled like removing the brake, traction control and anti-lock warning lamps from the instrument display which we all know points to the three amigos. Anyway getting to the reason I'm posting today. The release for the tilt mechanism in the steering wheel is very dodgy. It is usually somewhat difficult to release and if it gets into the lowest position it takes a great deal of time, patience and effort to release it. I sometimes think it may be stuck there forever. There are two parts to this control lever. 1) A cable which I believe loosens the locking clamp for the telescope function and 2) A bar and pin which I believe is the release for the tilt spline. I don't see any obvious worn or bent parts so my question is does anyone else have this problem and does anyone know of any lubrication or adjustment that can be done to make this work better?
I need to troubleshoot my cruise control. I've never had to go beyond vacuum problems before so I'm following the procedure in RAVE.
I know I'm just being lazy here but I really don't want to go tearing up the inside panels if someone can just say "no dumb a$$ it's over there".
I'm looking for the cruise control ECU. RAVE electrical component location says it's to the right of the steering column on right hand drive vehicles.
Does anybody know if they moved it to the left of the vehicle for NAS models along with the steering column or did they leave it on the right hand side above what would now be the glove box?
Hello all, haven't posted in a while. I've been driving the Rangie all winter and so far this summer. I've parked it for various minor catch up repairs and driving the Disco instead.
I have the front and rear screen washer pumps and such sorted as well as the cruse control. Working on Hella driving lamps and EAS components now.
This brings me to the question. In checking components to prepare for the swap back to air springs and running through things with Nanocom the compressor didn't run. The error is "Thermal Switch Over Temp". I pulled the compressor and took the motor apart. Found a fair amount of carbon but the brushes still look good. I've cleaned everything up with electronics cleaner, cleaned the commutator slots and gave it a gentle polish. The thermal switch is reading closed with an ohm meter. I don't much like the readings on the pole plates, but I was going to put it back together and give it a try when I noticed a ring in between the PC board and end bell of the motor. It's just loose and moving all over the place.
The O.D. of this ring is stepped. The inner step fits into the hole in the PC board perfectly and the outer step won't let it pass through. It seems that is where it belongs but I don't see what is supposed to hold it there.
While on the subject of EAS parts does anyone have any experience with a company out of Germany called "AEROSUS"? Prices look good to me.
Thanks for looking
I haven't found a post on this here but have read a few on other sites. They're sketchy at best.
I have a Recirculate door Servo motor that has gone bad on my LHD right-hand blower which of course puts it firmly up against the wall of the right-hand inner body structure.
RAVE says to pull the entire fascia. I've read the shop time for this is 12 hours labor. I can believe this. I have read tales of others being able to change this servo by loosening and moving the blower housing over enough to get at the two screws, but no detail or even if they were working on a RHD or LHD vehicle.
Does anyone here have any experience with doing this? Any advice or ideas?
Thanks for any help that you can offer.