Thanks Gilbert!

Your searching skills are definitely greater than mine! Any thoughts on the quality Eurospares units?

Does anyone have a source with stock for these, specifically LR or Dunlop I suppose are the descent ones?
Front Height Sensor: ANR4686
Rear Height Sensor: ANR4687

Mine are still ok, but getting on, and I suspect there might be a bit on a dead spot on my left rear (haven't confirmed). Anyway, I'd like to keep using the vehicle for many years to come so I'm looking to replace them all preemptively and keep the currently fitted ones as spares.

I can't find any stock locally (South-Africa) and most of the UK online retailers show out-of-stock.

Thanks!
Justus

Did some towing the other day, heaviest I've done at least.
Around 2,1 ton I guess, the trailer is damn heavy. Pushed it on some of the hills around here that are known to overheat, and the highest coolant temp we got on the Faultmate was 93degC. The altitude here is high, and it is hot so the air is quite thin (helps with visiting rugby teams, hinders good cooling). I'm happy with that 😄

Morat wrote:

That's Stunning!!!

And the view isn't bad either! 😀

While testing the wiring, did you check that one of the sensor wires isn't maybe shorting to the body somewhere?
If it's chafed through its insulation somewhere and touching the body then the resistance test would be fine but I suspect the ABS controller does an inductance test too, which a short to the body would fail. Obviously as you start driving a short to the body would also pull the wheel speed signal low and that sensor will show no wheel rotation.

My fan failed the same way about a year ago. Also suspect it was probably the original.
Inspecting it afterwards, I think if I'd removed the fan and inspected the join between the blades and cup that fits over the viscous coupling I might have spotted tiny cracks starting to form.

Mine let go as I accelerated from a standstill and let go with quite a bang at probably around 4k rpm.

Spent some more time modelling up the valveblock.
At last!

And next to the Viair compressor:

Would be great if I can get the compressor mounted sometime this year!

Sani Pass, between South Africa and Lesotho.

Looks good!

Nope, EAS works beautifully for normal use.
I had the compressor struggle to keep up on one 4x4 trail where I was cycling between standard and offroad height multiple times. Not a usual use case and I wasn't surprised.

The upgrade is so that I can use the onboard air reservoir for tyres, pressurizing a water tank etc.

Yes, I was pushing my luck hoping someone had a CAD model or drawing. I don't need the interior ports, basically just a "space claim" model around which to model the box.

I'm busy with the process of drawing sucah a model using my spare valveblock as Pete suggested. Progress so far:

I'm hoping that adding some decent sound deadening material designed into the new enclosure will help mute the noise of the compressor. We'll see!

The blue motor mounted on the left front strut tower is an ARB air compressor. Currently being used for tire inflation etc. but it is also plumbed in parallel with the EAS compressor with a one way valve. I can switch on to run when the EAS compressor runs as a backup if the EAS compressor might fail.

Has anyone come across a 3D CAD model of the valveblock? Or even a dimensioned 2D drawing?

Another project!

So I've bought this:

It is a Viair 485C and is capable of 200psi at a flow rate of 25l/min and a 100% duty cycle.
It's also supposed to be quiet according to their website (it isn't, not compared to the standard compressor anyway).

Should be good, if I can make it fit that is:

I'll need to redesign a complete new mounting and housing for the compressor and the valve block. Fun!

I received the Revision A PCBs today.

Should be able to get it assembled tomorrow and then I can start with the coding and testing 😀

Agreed, that is probably more likely!
I'm obviously just thinking of the potential electrical faults as that is where my mind is at at the moment.

Thanks for the alternative view!

Hi Greyhound,
It sounds to me like the connection to one or more of the valves in your ABS modulator might be iffy, either not connected, or shorting to a wire on one of the other valves. I'd check all the wiring between the ABS controller (C0506) and the ABS modulator connector (C0501). Check for both continuity, a short to any of the other wires or a short to ground. Also have both the connector at the ABS controller and the ABS modulator connector unplugged while checking.

I suspect what is happening is that as you accelerate and the right rear loses traction the TC activates and applies the brakes and starts actuating valves to stop the right rear from spinning. If the valves aren't actuating correctly, not releasing when they should or the wrong valves are actuating then it might cause the symptoms you are describing.

Goodluck!

Hope the rest of the drive goes as smoothly as it has started 😃

Thanks for the info mad-as, and I am glad I am not the only one with this requirement!
I know the Landcruisers and some other 4x4 SUVs disable ABS when the transfercase is locked.

I have completed the prototype design and ordered the PCB and components.

So the unit should be able to disable ABS and TC with the push of one button. A second button will disable TC only.
The most basic implementation won't be able to disable ABS but keep TC active because the ABS and TC both use the same solenoid valve to each wheel station.

I have an idea to monitor the brake pedal input and then a third "mode" can be programmed where the ABS and TC are disabled only when the brake pedal is being pressed. When the brake pedal is released both ABS and TC will then be active again. This should work in a similar fashion to only disabling the TC, but will need to be tested first.

I have also added CANbus functionality to the board. My "want" is to install a secondary CANbus in the vehicle which can then monitor and actuate different modules as I add them. A little display can then be places somewhere in the dash which could display this information. It won;t be used for anything at this stage, but adding the functionality costs nothing if the components aren't populated on the PCB.

I should have the first prototype ready for code in about a weeks time.

Not quite hill descent control, but rather ABS that prevents wheel lock even when the brakes are not being applied.
I was heading down a wet muddy hill with large, flatting rocks that made the surface very slippery. I had the initial version of my ABS disable switch installed and had the switch pressed for this descent, so the ABS ECU had no way of knowing I was pressing the brakes. Even a light application of the brakes would lock one of the front wheels, which was then immediately released again, even though I kept applying the same amount of brake pressure. The vehicle just kept increasing in speed down the hill and I just had to hold on and try to keep things under control using steering, applying the brakes or not made little to no difference down the steep sections.

This was the type of hill that I would have preferred crawling down as slow as possible, but the ABS didn't allow this. I would, for example, like to slowly step down a rock with the front right wheel locked so that it is dropped down the step and then gains traction on the bottom stopping the vehicle immediately. This isn't possible because the wheel locks as it goes down the step (no traction as it drops down the sheer face), the ABS releases the brakes as it locks, the vehicle moves forward letting the front left get to the step and also drop down. The ABS then releases the front left too which adds to the momentum of the vehicle which then forces the front right to start sliding which the ABS then releases again and so the viscous circle continues.

A similar thing happens while driving at higher speeds on a gravel road. The stopping distance is greatly increased because of the ABS. Yes, you gain more control because the vehicle can be steered, but applying brakes correctly without ABS would still allow steering control to be retained. Also, sometimes it is more important to just stop as quickly as possible without needing to steer. A sudden ditch on a gravel road cannot be steered through, it is better to come to a stop before the ditch even if vehicle steering is compromised!

Anyway, above my reasoning for wanting to disable ABS. Lots of typing and reading, but it forces me to think through the scenarios which helps me understand what I actually want. Thanks!

I had a look at the hydraulic circuit diagram yesterday and it seems I am going to be able to disable the ABS and TC together or disable the TC on it's own, but not the ABS on it's own. I was hoping that I would be able to disable only the ABS, but keep the TC active but it seems this won't be possible. I'll look through the diagrams again this morning and see if I come to the same conclusion as yesterday and then move forward with the PCB design.

dave3d wrote:

I have only just done the cover so the job is not 100% finished. So far I have just filed the edges to remove any roughness. It is still bright metal.
I was going to use Tiger Seal to bond the bottom frame bit to the metal. Maybe I should paint round with Hammerite or Rustoleum first.

Let me know when you want the files. You need a largish print bed of 230x230. My old one was only 200x200.
I printed it in ABS as I said, but ABS warps terribly. You may be better printing it in PETG or even PLA, it's easier.
I used 6mm nuts and bolts and 8mm screw inserts to screw the lid on.

Thanks!
I've bought an Ender 5 Pro that has a 220x220x300high print volume, so just too small. If you send me the CAD model I can just split it into two parts and glue them together after. Or maybe just shrink it down a bit to fit my bed. You've already done the hard part of fitting it to the contours of the bed correctly, in essence that is probably the most important part of the CAD model!

dave3d wrote:

Anybody who has other suggestions what to make, speak now. I was looking at fitting two air compressors, one outside the EAS box on a special bracket. I know Marty has fitted two compressors. Maybe a pressure gauge bracket for under the bonnet.
I am doing a windscreen ice scraper at the minute. Not needed in SA.

We did a snow trip to Lesotho this past winter, and the snow scraper would definitely have come in handy!