Replaced the subwoofer with a more compact and less broken replacement. Audio sounds superb again.

I didn't do a good job of updating this thread at all!

The wheel carrier has been on the car for 2 and a half years now. It's done many trips and is holding up well!
I'll post a detailed update soon.
We're in the bush for a getaway weekend:

Lubricating the balls with some light penetrating oil makes levering them out much much easier.

Thanks Gilbert!

Your searching skills are definitely greater than mine! Any thoughts on the quality Eurospares units?

Does anyone have a source with stock for these, specifically LR or Dunlop I suppose are the descent ones?
Front Height Sensor: ANR4686
Rear Height Sensor: ANR4687

Mine are still ok, but getting on, and I suspect there might be a bit on a dead spot on my left rear (haven't confirmed). Anyway, I'd like to keep using the vehicle for many years to come so I'm looking to replace them all preemptively and keep the currently fitted ones as spares.

I can't find any stock locally (South-Africa) and most of the UK online retailers show out-of-stock.

Thanks!
Justus

Did some towing the other day, heaviest I've done at least.
Around 2,1 ton I guess, the trailer is damn heavy. Pushed it on some of the hills around here that are known to overheat, and the highest coolant temp we got on the Faultmate was 93degC. The altitude here is high, and it is hot so the air is quite thin (helps with visiting rugby teams, hinders good cooling). I'm happy with that 😄

Morat wrote:

That's Stunning!!!

And the view isn't bad either! 😀

While testing the wiring, did you check that one of the sensor wires isn't maybe shorting to the body somewhere?
If it's chafed through its insulation somewhere and touching the body then the resistance test would be fine but I suspect the ABS controller does an inductance test too, which a short to the body would fail. Obviously as you start driving a short to the body would also pull the wheel speed signal low and that sensor will show no wheel rotation.

My fan failed the same way about a year ago. Also suspect it was probably the original.
Inspecting it afterwards, I think if I'd removed the fan and inspected the join between the blades and cup that fits over the viscous coupling I might have spotted tiny cracks starting to form.

Mine let go as I accelerated from a standstill and let go with quite a bang at probably around 4k rpm.

Spent some more time modelling up the valveblock.
At last!

And next to the Viair compressor:

Would be great if I can get the compressor mounted sometime this year!

Sani Pass, between South Africa and Lesotho.

Looks good!

Nope, EAS works beautifully for normal use.
I had the compressor struggle to keep up on one 4x4 trail where I was cycling between standard and offroad height multiple times. Not a usual use case and I wasn't surprised.

The upgrade is so that I can use the onboard air reservoir for tyres, pressurizing a water tank etc.

Yes, I was pushing my luck hoping someone had a CAD model or drawing. I don't need the interior ports, basically just a "space claim" model around which to model the box.

I'm busy with the process of drawing sucah a model using my spare valveblock as Pete suggested. Progress so far:

I'm hoping that adding some decent sound deadening material designed into the new enclosure will help mute the noise of the compressor. We'll see!

The blue motor mounted on the left front strut tower is an ARB air compressor. Currently being used for tire inflation etc. but it is also plumbed in parallel with the EAS compressor with a one way valve. I can switch on to run when the EAS compressor runs as a backup if the EAS compressor might fail.

Has anyone come across a 3D CAD model of the valveblock? Or even a dimensioned 2D drawing?

Another project!

So I've bought this:

It is a Viair 485C and is capable of 200psi at a flow rate of 25l/min and a 100% duty cycle.
It's also supposed to be quiet according to their website (it isn't, not compared to the standard compressor anyway).

Should be good, if I can make it fit that is:

I'll need to redesign a complete new mounting and housing for the compressor and the valve block. Fun!

I received the Revision A PCBs today.

Should be able to get it assembled tomorrow and then I can start with the coding and testing 😀

Agreed, that is probably more likely!
I'm obviously just thinking of the potential electrical faults as that is where my mind is at at the moment.

Thanks for the alternative view!

Hi Greyhound,
It sounds to me like the connection to one or more of the valves in your ABS modulator might be iffy, either not connected, or shorting to a wire on one of the other valves. I'd check all the wiring between the ABS controller (C0506) and the ABS modulator connector (C0501). Check for both continuity, a short to any of the other wires or a short to ground. Also have both the connector at the ABS controller and the ABS modulator connector unplugged while checking.

I suspect what is happening is that as you accelerate and the right rear loses traction the TC activates and applies the brakes and starts actuating valves to stop the right rear from spinning. If the valves aren't actuating correctly, not releasing when they should or the wrong valves are actuating then it might cause the symptoms you are describing.

Goodluck!

Hope the rest of the drive goes as smoothly as it has started 😃