Perfect, mail sent.
I checked out your site, some interesting content there. I'll browse more at a later stage.
I don't do social media, so sadly no way for me to check out your page.
Cheers,
Justus
stefan63 wrote:
Would you mid sharing your CAD files (I'm using fusion360 but .stp .step files could also work).
Kind regards/Stefan @stockholmviews.com
I tried sending you the CAD files, but it seems your email address is blocking it?
This is the response I got:
Message blocked
Your message to Stefan@stockholmviews.com has been blocked. See technical details below for more information.
The response from the remote server was:
550 5.1.1 Unknown recipient
Cheers,
Justus
Hi Stefan,
Nope, not mounted yet, the compressor is still in it's box in the corner of my office, but the project isn't dead yet either.
So the current direction is to retain the stock compressor in it's stock location, and rather mount the VIAIR nearby. This allows me to use the stock compressor (quiet) to operate from say 8-10bar and only have the VIAIR (loud) come on if the pressure drops below 8bar (values will be finalised when I start testing). I'm thinking this will give me a best of both world's scenario where in traffic, around town etc the stock compressor will handle low volume air duties like cycling between standard and highway height, and it will do so quietly. Large volume air duties like pumping tyres, lifting from access to standard will be handled by the VIAIR.
The idea above necessitates some changes to the driver pack, which I am busy redesigning anyway. I'll add control for the 2nd compressor, a pressure sensor (not just a switch, so that I can use software to adjust the limits) as well as a way to manually control the valves.
The manual valve control is something I want to add so that I can manually adjust the suspension height and lock it in that height for camping (rooftop tent).
The new VIAIR location is still being discussed, but currently it looks like it will live on the left chassis rail, forward of the left from airspring mount. Basically under the steering fluid reservoir. It'll have some heat and mud shielding around it and should be easily removable if I am any good at bracket design.
I'll email you the CAD models shortly.
PS: I have a bit of a deadline for this project now, so hopefully it'll actually get done. We are doing a desert river exploration trip early in next year, and the pneumatic system needs to be done by then so that the air lockers and vehicle levelling works as I want it.
Have you checked that the silencer on the valve body is flowing air?
Mine would also lift itself to extended height occasionally and not lower, it turned out to be a clogged silencer. This does not explain all your symptoms but might be a good starting point?
My first instinct says driver pack or ECU but you've replaced both. Did you replace both at the same time or one and then the other?
I'm wondering if a faulty ECU might damage the driver pack or vice-versa.
Can you use the Nanocom to actuate the individual valves in the valvebody? When attempting to find why mine would lift itself to extended height I used my Faultmate to actuate individual valves, and I could hear them switching, but the exhaust valve seemed to have no effect which lead me to the clogged silencer. Perhaps a similar test on yours might show where your issue lies, or give more clues.
I've recently replaced the standard dual cone subwoofer with a more "modern" compact subwoofer.
Reasoning was twofold. Firstly I wanted the packing space being taken up by the standard sub and secondly the standard units speakers were torn anyway, so it was just taking up space and not contributing anyway.
I decided to go for a Phillips unit. It is nice and compact and seemed to get some good reviews. It's power requirements also fell within the cars limits, so no need to change out fuses or uprate wiring to supply the sub.
https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/ts-wx130ea
The new subwoofer fits nicely inside the space between the outer skin of the vehicle above and just behind the left rear wheel arch. This means that the full space previously occupied by the standard sub is now available for packing more beer. Perfect.
I first set about fabricating a mounting bracket for the sub that wraps around the back of the sub tying into the standard mounting holes of the sub:
The idea was to support weight of the sub from the top and bottom with a tight fitting bracket. The sub is supplied with some self tapping fasteners that screw into the sub itself, but I needed the fasteners to be flatter so I used some countersunk M6 fasteners. I tapped the holes in the back of the sub to M6 which worked nicely.
To mount the sub to the car I enlarged two of the standard cable handling clip holes above the proposed mounting location and fitted two rivnuts. Now I had nice threaded holes for the top of the sub mounting bracket to attach to:
For the bottom mounting I welded a nut to the sub mounting bracket (which can be seen in the 2nd image above) and drilled a hole in the body for another fastener to screw into the sub mounting bracket:
The wiring was very simple with the sub only needing a Battery Supply, an Ignition Signal (from the radio to make the unit power up), a Ground Return and an Audio Signal (so 4 wires). These happen to be exactly what the standard subwoofer uses, so I just cut off the standard connector, fitted a DT connector that I had lying around to the vehicle wiring and the sub wiring and tested the unit. Worked well.
The electrical connector I cabletied to the top of the sub mounting bracket like so:
As can be seen from the images above I also stuck some sound insulating/damping material to all the body panels in the area. Without this insulation all the vibrating body panels absorbed the energy making the sub not sound great and diminishing its power quite a bit.
The standard rear wing inner "cover", or whatever it is called, is filled with gaping holes for the mounting hardware and wiring of the standard sub to move through and attach. These holes now needed to be covered up.
I decided to 3d print covers for these holes, in thin semi flexible material so that it could bend and conform to the shape of the wheelarch lines cover thingy. I heated these up, shaped them as required and then fitted them. I didn't take any pictures of this part, but I'll post some picture later. It worked quite well, and I even printed a mount for the subwoofer remote, with a clip in cover, that fits inside one of the gaping holes. Some of the clips holding the covers in place broke off during fitment (layer line breaks) but all in all the covers worked well and look decently good for what they are. Pics of this to follow.
Yes, no problem, I'll start a thread for it and post some more pictures and info there.
I'm quite happy with it!
Replaced the subwoofer with a more compact and less broken replacement. Audio sounds superb again.
I didn't do a good job of updating this thread at all!
The wheel carrier has been on the car for 2 and a half years now. It's done many trips and is holding up well!
I'll post a detailed update soon.
We're in the bush for a getaway weekend:
Lubricating the balls with some light penetrating oil makes levering them out much much easier.
Thanks Gilbert!
Your searching skills are definitely greater than mine! Any thoughts on the quality Eurospares units?
Does anyone have a source with stock for these, specifically LR or Dunlop I suppose are the descent ones?
Front Height Sensor: ANR4686
Rear Height Sensor: ANR4687
Mine are still ok, but getting on, and I suspect there might be a bit on a dead spot on my left rear (haven't confirmed). Anyway, I'd like to keep using the vehicle for many years to come so I'm looking to replace them all preemptively and keep the currently fitted ones as spares.
I can't find any stock locally (South-Africa) and most of the UK online retailers show out-of-stock.
Thanks!
Justus
Did some towing the other day, heaviest I've done at least.
Around 2,1 ton I guess, the trailer is damn heavy. Pushed it on some of the hills around here that are known to overheat, and the highest coolant temp we got on the Faultmate was 93degC. The altitude here is high, and it is hot so the air is quite thin (helps with visiting rugby teams, hinders good cooling). I'm happy with that 😄
While testing the wiring, did you check that one of the sensor wires isn't maybe shorting to the body somewhere?
If it's chafed through its insulation somewhere and touching the body then the resistance test would be fine but I suspect the ABS controller does an inductance test too, which a short to the body would fail. Obviously as you start driving a short to the body would also pull the wheel speed signal low and that sensor will show no wheel rotation.
My fan failed the same way about a year ago. Also suspect it was probably the original.
Inspecting it afterwards, I think if I'd removed the fan and inspected the join between the blades and cup that fits over the viscous coupling I might have spotted tiny cracks starting to form.
Mine let go as I accelerated from a standstill and let go with quite a bang at probably around 4k rpm.
Spent some more time modelling up the valveblock.
At last!
And next to the Viair compressor:
Would be great if I can get the compressor mounted sometime this year!
Sani Pass, between South Africa and Lesotho.
Nope, EAS works beautifully for normal use.
I had the compressor struggle to keep up on one 4x4 trail where I was cycling between standard and offroad height multiple times. Not a usual use case and I wasn't surprised.
The upgrade is so that I can use the onboard air reservoir for tyres, pressurizing a water tank etc.
Yes, I was pushing my luck hoping someone had a CAD model or drawing. I don't need the interior ports, basically just a "space claim" model around which to model the box.
I'm busy with the process of drawing sucah a model using my spare valveblock as Pete suggested. Progress so far:
I'm hoping that adding some decent sound deadening material designed into the new enclosure will help mute the noise of the compressor. We'll see!
The blue motor mounted on the left front strut tower is an ARB air compressor. Currently being used for tire inflation etc. but it is also plumbed in parallel with the EAS compressor with a one way valve. I can switch on to run when the EAS compressor runs as a backup if the EAS compressor might fail.