I could rotate the selector shaft using a pair of pliers and could get high - neutral - low selected (counted the output rotations for each input shaft rotation) when I had my transfer out a few weeks ago.
You should be able to test yours in a similar way! The selector shaft actually rotated pretty easily I thought.
Edit:
I used a jack similar to the one Davidall used to get my transfer in and out. I had to take it off the jack to get the transfer case out from under the car.
I made an adaptor bracket that bolts to the transfer and jack for the reinstall. This allowed me to angle it perfectly making the reinstall easy.
If you don't like the Anderson option then these might be worth a look:
https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/automotive-connectors/intersection/rugged-circular-din-connectors.html?tab=pgp-story
I've decided to go for these instead of the usual Anderson connectors for my dual battery installation.
Ask if you want some clarity on these, the TE website & catalogues are a bit confusing if you aren't used to working with them.
Feedback time:
So the gearbox is fitted and I can confirm that these are the bolts that are needed:
FB506115 --> 3/8UNC x 1 3/8 (34mm) --> x4 required. These are fitted from the engine side and screw into the bellhousing.
LYG101451 --> 3/8UNC x 1 7/8 (46mm) --> x8 required. These are fitted from the gearbox side and screw into the engine.
FC506267S --> 3/8UNC x 3 1/4 (82mm) --> x2 required. These are the long ones right at the lowest point from the gearbox side into the sump.
Hope this helps someone in future!
So it's all refitted and working beautifully (rebuilt gearbox and transfer box).
And going back together again:
Went back together with no issues and all seems to be working as it should. Looks quite nice too. Hope it holds oil!
Haha, ja! The magnet had me stumped for a while too when I found it under the casing after splitting the box.
Got the differential bearings removed and the new ones fitted. The old bearings felt in good condition but I had the new ones so replaced them anyway.
Casings cleaned and painted:
I should also have taken Richard's advice and gotten the chain replaced sooner, which would have saved my gearbox 1st gear sprag clutch. It failed while offroading in low range up some steep hills. I could hear the chain jumping, but by then it was a little late and I was already into the obstacles.
Lesson learnt! On the plus side I will now have a nicely refurbished gearbox to go back into Rachel. Also, I have now been able to actually get the gearbox and transfercase properly clean, they were caked in years of oily mud that I couldn't ever get clean with the whole lot still fitted to the vehicle. I'm pleased with that.
I finally got going on this, even though the Ashcroft rebuild kit has been lying on the shelf for months.
Thought I'd post some pics:
Quite a bit of slack on the old chain!
The black stuff on the oil pump pickup mesh filter is bits of silicon sealant. I'm guessing someone was a bit too liberal with the sealant in the past.
The box has been completely stripped at this stage and the aluminium casing has gone off to be cleaned and painted by the people that are rebuilding my gearbox for me.
I should have it all back by this weekend and then I can start reassembly with new bearings, seals and a new chain.
From here (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/L7.L7J.L7J02.L7J02010/brand/land-rover/) these seem to be partnumbers I need:
FB506115 --> 3/8UNC x 1 3/8 (34mm)
LYG101451 --> 3/8UNC x 1 7/8 (46mm)
FC506267S --> 3/8UNC x 3 1/4 (82mm)
Now I just need to know which ones I am short!
Hi all,
I removed the 4HP24 from my 2001 Thor this week as it has gone in for a full overhaul. This is the first time since owning Rachel that I have needed to get into that area, and to my shock/frustration I realised that not all the bellhousing bolts were fitted. Another stupid decision by the PO.
Anyway, I need to replace the missing bolts. This is what I have:
2x 82mm bolts
5x 46mm bolts
4x 34mm bolts
Anyone have an idea of what I am missing? Partnumber or thread and length would be perfect.
Thanks!
Justus
Looks great!
How big a difference did the extra insulation on the roof make?
Pleasure, glad they are useful!
I'd go ARP studs every time. They are known good quality, but the torque procedure is just much easier to execute when compared to the stretch bolts.
It doesn't sound complicated, but doing up the last 90deg sequence needed for the stretch bolts is a bit of a mission (well it was for me anyway). I marked the bolts beforehand and also marked the block, but it's still tough to turn exactly 90deg and stop at exactly the right stage when leaning over the engine, reaching over and grunting while tugging on the 1/2inch extension. ARP studs tightened to the specified torque in stages was way easier and more repeatable for me!
I did my headgaskets twice last year, first time I used stretch bolts, but had the threads fail so redid it shortly after.
The second time I decided to spend the money and go for ARP studs. Got them from Summit Racing in the US and had them shipped to South-Africa.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-157-4301
I took a bunch of photos the first time around, especially while dismantling.
It might be useful to you: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nW3Xs7hd12ndSE5k6
The one gasket that I needed that wasn't in any of the gasket sets was the Upper Manifold Gasket (ERR6621).
I also bought Elring headgaskets instead of using what was included in the gasket set.
I live in Pretoria, South Africa. We have our problems here, but it is a beautiful country with wonderful weather and I doubt I'd choose to live elsewhere.
The route we took:
And zoomed in a bit more:
We took Rachel for a nice Sunday afternoon drive over a local gravel pass. Total distance covered was around 250km with around 50km being gravel road.
Fun outing!
Your setup seems very well thought out!
I guess the idea with a dual battery setup (other than increased capacity) is to stop non-vehicle items from draining the vehicle batteries, which means the vehicle batteries should always be in good enough state to start and run the vehicle. If somehow the vehicle batteries do run down then your "reach around" method is perfectly adequate, adding in an automatic slave start feature will probably just be adding in more complexity unnecessarily.
I'm looking at potentially going for a MPPT & DC-DC charger combination unit for my installation. I'm in South-Africa so solar makes complete sense here, I just want to keep it as low as possible to the roof and haven't quite decided how to do that yet (wind resistance reasons). The dc-dc part is needed because I want to go for LiFePO4 batteries, mostly due to the weight savings and longer life even at deeper discharges.
A friend of mine has the same Waeco fridge as your newer one and he is very pleased with it. I like it too and have had many a cold beer from it in unpleasantly hot conditions.
Looks very neat, I like it! Definitely making me rethink my plan for the wheel well.
What is the unit on the right with the blue and white label/sticker? I assume it is the split charge unit?
Any plans to add solar in future?
Looks really good!
This is basically exactly what I have in mind for mine (someday in the future). I was thinking of cutting out the whole spare wheel well and welding in a new box, which will allow me to make it more rectangular as opposed to the rounded current shape. Your frame idea is making me rethink my plan.
What are your plans with the space on the left of the batteries? I'd like to add in a reserve fuel tank as well as a water tank somewhere under the floor too, with the batteries. I suspect that in my mind there is more space down there than there actually is.
Nice work. Really cool fuse/relay box too!
Managed to steal some time yesterday and finished off the chassis mount.
Not much progress but some at least!
Started the day off with this:
The bracket that the bumper locates into and bolts onto (inside the end of the chassis leg) has been modified and now uses two longer bolts that go right through (instead of two from the left and two from the right) and screw into two captive nuts welded onto the chassis mount bracket. This will allow me to cover the big diagonal cutout in the rectangular tube (in the photo above) with some plate, stiffening it up considerably.
Three of the four new mounting bolts that screw through the chassis into a captive plate with weld nuts that fits inside the chassis leg:
View with the bumper in place:
Chassis mount with wet paint:
More wet brackets:
Hopefully I'll make more progress in the week!
I got the lasercut parts just before the weekend and got going with the build.
My first feeling when receiving the bits was that they are quite small, it really is a bit tough to judge size on CAD.
I also struggled to get the correct size pipe for the bearing mount. I was looking for 57mm OD with 2mm wall and finally found a supplier. Got the pipe home, measured it and turns out they gave me 60mm-OD 2mm-wall. Dammit, should have measured it when I picked it up!
The major disadvantage with the bigger pipe is that it's harder to center the bearings, but the larger OD does mean that the load will be spread better through the rectangular tube of the swingam. Gave it a go and it turned out good:
Next I got the bumper off and started with the bolt on support for the bearing mount. It had to be shortened quite a bit and trimmed along the curve of the bumper too. I knew this might be required as it's a bit tough to accurately replicate the bumper shape etc on CAD (for my experience level anyway).
This:
bolted on here:
had to be shortened and trimmed:
and ended up like this:
The bumper fits tight over this bracket, but it does fit. Next step was to locate the bearing carrier and make the necessary holes for the M20 bolt to run through. You can see the location of the hole in the previous photo, circled in green on the bumper lying on the ground and a dimple on the forward piece of rectangular tube.
The M20 bolt will enter through the top smaller hole and bolt through into the M20 nut which is sunk into the rectangular tubes and welded to them.
Some spacers to space the bearing through the bumper and you end up with this:
Here you can see the bottom of the bolt screwed into the M20 nut which has to still be welded to the bolt on bracket:
And the back corner from outside:
I have deviated quite a bit from the original CAD model in terms of location of the bearing mount on the bumper (it's moved left and forward) but I expected needing to make some changes and I'm happy with the outcome. It's been fun spending the weekend welding and fettling and measuring, a nice break from the PC.
Happy Monday all!