I didn't even think of using ebay, thanks Richard!
Yes, I have a Faultmate MSV2, with which I believe I can change the ECM security code on the BECM to match the ECM (as I understand it).
At the moment I'm willing to take the risk for the cost of the ECM, but if someone has done this and can confirm that it does/doesn't work as I described here that would be great and I can then adjust my plan as required.
Hi all,
Hoping someone might be willing to help me out.
I would like to send my ECM to the UK to have it Tornado-ed by Mark Adams, but I would like the car to remain mobile so I need another ECM to keep the car running here in SA while my original ECM is travelling. Additionally I also want an ECM with the Lambda/Oxygen sensor control activated for the two upstream sensors, hence my need for a UK ECM.
All this for a 2001 4.6 Thor (Bosch) car.
Would anyone be willing to purchase an ECM for me there in the UK from an appropriate vehicle and then send it on to my freight forwarder in London who will then get it to me here in SA.
Obviously I'm happy to pay for all related expenses, I'm assuming Paypal would be easiest?
Cheers,
Justus
Thanks for the correction Richard! Post above edited so as not to confuse anyone.
I am by no means an expert, so please take my thoughts with a pinch of salt!
All I can imagine is that the reduction hub isn't moving through it's full range of motion for some reason. Either the selector fork assy and interlock spool are not moving as they should or perhaps the selector and reduction hub are not mated correctly?
Another thought:
EDIT: removed because I was talking rubbish. Thanks for the correction Richard.
I had my transfercase in low when reassembling it, tested the high/neutral/low was all working on the bench, selected high range, counted the rotations to confirm and then refitted the ratio control motor that had been left in high range when removing it from the car. This seems to have worked for me.
I could rotate the selector shaft using a pair of pliers and could get high - neutral - low selected (counted the output rotations for each input shaft rotation) when I had my transfer out a few weeks ago.
You should be able to test yours in a similar way! The selector shaft actually rotated pretty easily I thought.
Edit:
I used a jack similar to the one Davidall used to get my transfer in and out. I had to take it off the jack to get the transfer case out from under the car.
I made an adaptor bracket that bolts to the transfer and jack for the reinstall. This allowed me to angle it perfectly making the reinstall easy.
If you don't like the Anderson option then these might be worth a look:
https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/automotive-connectors/intersection/rugged-circular-din-connectors.html?tab=pgp-story
I've decided to go for these instead of the usual Anderson connectors for my dual battery installation.
Ask if you want some clarity on these, the TE website & catalogues are a bit confusing if you aren't used to working with them.
Feedback time:
So the gearbox is fitted and I can confirm that these are the bolts that are needed:
FB506115 --> 3/8UNC x 1 3/8 (34mm) --> x4 required. These are fitted from the engine side and screw into the bellhousing.
LYG101451 --> 3/8UNC x 1 7/8 (46mm) --> x8 required. These are fitted from the gearbox side and screw into the engine.
FC506267S --> 3/8UNC x 3 1/4 (82mm) --> x2 required. These are the long ones right at the lowest point from the gearbox side into the sump.
Hope this helps someone in future!
So it's all refitted and working beautifully (rebuilt gearbox and transfer box).
And going back together again:
Went back together with no issues and all seems to be working as it should. Looks quite nice too. Hope it holds oil!
Haha, ja! The magnet had me stumped for a while too when I found it under the casing after splitting the box.
Got the differential bearings removed and the new ones fitted. The old bearings felt in good condition but I had the new ones so replaced them anyway.
Casings cleaned and painted:
I should also have taken Richard's advice and gotten the chain replaced sooner, which would have saved my gearbox 1st gear sprag clutch. It failed while offroading in low range up some steep hills. I could hear the chain jumping, but by then it was a little late and I was already into the obstacles.
Lesson learnt! On the plus side I will now have a nicely refurbished gearbox to go back into Rachel. Also, I have now been able to actually get the gearbox and transfercase properly clean, they were caked in years of oily mud that I couldn't ever get clean with the whole lot still fitted to the vehicle. I'm pleased with that.
I finally got going on this, even though the Ashcroft rebuild kit has been lying on the shelf for months.
Thought I'd post some pics:
Quite a bit of slack on the old chain!
The black stuff on the oil pump pickup mesh filter is bits of silicon sealant. I'm guessing someone was a bit too liberal with the sealant in the past.
The box has been completely stripped at this stage and the aluminium casing has gone off to be cleaned and painted by the people that are rebuilding my gearbox for me.
I should have it all back by this weekend and then I can start reassembly with new bearings, seals and a new chain.
From here (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/L7.L7J.L7J02.L7J02010/brand/land-rover/) these seem to be partnumbers I need:
FB506115 --> 3/8UNC x 1 3/8 (34mm)
LYG101451 --> 3/8UNC x 1 7/8 (46mm)
FC506267S --> 3/8UNC x 3 1/4 (82mm)
Now I just need to know which ones I am short!
Hi all,
I removed the 4HP24 from my 2001 Thor this week as it has gone in for a full overhaul. This is the first time since owning Rachel that I have needed to get into that area, and to my shock/frustration I realised that not all the bellhousing bolts were fitted. Another stupid decision by the PO.
Anyway, I need to replace the missing bolts. This is what I have:
2x 82mm bolts
5x 46mm bolts
4x 34mm bolts
Anyone have an idea of what I am missing? Partnumber or thread and length would be perfect.
Thanks!
Justus
Looks great!
How big a difference did the extra insulation on the roof make?
Pleasure, glad they are useful!
I'd go ARP studs every time. They are known good quality, but the torque procedure is just much easier to execute when compared to the stretch bolts.
It doesn't sound complicated, but doing up the last 90deg sequence needed for the stretch bolts is a bit of a mission (well it was for me anyway). I marked the bolts beforehand and also marked the block, but it's still tough to turn exactly 90deg and stop at exactly the right stage when leaning over the engine, reaching over and grunting while tugging on the 1/2inch extension. ARP studs tightened to the specified torque in stages was way easier and more repeatable for me!
I did my headgaskets twice last year, first time I used stretch bolts, but had the threads fail so redid it shortly after.
The second time I decided to spend the money and go for ARP studs. Got them from Summit Racing in the US and had them shipped to South-Africa.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-157-4301
I took a bunch of photos the first time around, especially while dismantling.
It might be useful to you: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nW3Xs7hd12ndSE5k6
The one gasket that I needed that wasn't in any of the gasket sets was the Upper Manifold Gasket (ERR6621).
I also bought Elring headgaskets instead of using what was included in the gasket set.
I live in Pretoria, South Africa. We have our problems here, but it is a beautiful country with wonderful weather and I doubt I'd choose to live elsewhere.
The route we took:
And zoomed in a bit more:
We took Rachel for a nice Sunday afternoon drive over a local gravel pass. Total distance covered was around 250km with around 50km being gravel road.
Fun outing!
