Went to leave at early dawn. All dash instruments illumination lights inop. Radio works as does navigation system. The lights in the switches (front/rear fog) etc all work. The background illumination for these same switches do not work.
About two years ago I had a brake pedal that was soft and wouldn’t stop vehicle if I put it in D at start up. Giving it about 30 seconds and worked proper pedal was soft until pressure built up. Never would have issues throughout the day.
I replaced the accumulator and all was grand. Now the same issue is back again. I’m assuming it’s an accumulator fault again, BUT could it be something else? The accumulator would be the cheap and first fix I suppose?
Anyone point me in a direction to find out why my brake light seems to blow every 10 or so applications. Haven’t identified if it blows when pedal Is pressed for a long time or just from frequent uses. Volts to socket are normal.
Almost at the stage where I leave the cover off the access panel these days to save time putting one of the 10 replace r bulbs I carry around with me, especially after the local copper .left me off with a verbal when I promised to replace it…
Does anyone have a company in USA that I could get to appraise the LINLEY?
Been through a number of places and they all range between $10,000 to $23,500!!!! Obviously they base appraisal on the P38 with a small premium on it being a “special” vehicle.
Is there any way to tension/tighten up the bonnet/hood release cable(s)?
Looking at images of newer ones it appears that the end tabs are fixed so not much hope in adjusting there but wondering if there may be a fix…
Mines a little too slack for my liking when I go to release bonnet/hood.
Are the older ones prone to stretching over time?
Edited……. Just popped back out to look at cable…. Requires replacement…. Cable on pax side has frayed and is causing latch not to close.
Probably should have reviewed item prior to posting question…..
Carry on…. I’ll let myself out……
Was driving from Boston to Conneticut and all of a sudden started to hear a tappity sound from front right. Pulled into lay by and sound was coming from right side of engine but not consistently. Increased in intensity but not sound when engine was revved. Continued drive and there were times when sound was not there at all and then it would come back with no set speed or acceleration determining when the tapping sound came. Definitely coming from the rocker area of engine.
She has 115,000 miles on it and is due exhaust manifold gaskets and a complete exhaust…..
Comments suggestions or otherwise so as to help identify the culprit….
She’s a 2000 P38 4.6 …….
Ive had an ongoing issue with the H&H (2000 P38) for past three years. Not a big deal but an irritant. Like a pebble in ones shoe.... sometimes it bothers you and other times you never notice it.
If I am to start it and drive away without pause then step on brakes the vehicle will not stop immediately but come to a slow stop. Maybe roll about 5’ slowing down.... If I let it idle for about 15 seconds then she will stop normally. I changed the accumulator a year ago and issue cleared for about a month and returned again.
ANyone have a notion? Doesn’t happen in the Linley
Does anyone have the rear license plate lense cover for a P38 that is not cracked?
Mine is broken in 4 bits and being held together with glue, tape, sticky rice (good enough for the Greatr Wall of China then good enough for a P38) and a prayer......
I need the entire unit that includes the black plastic and lenses.....
Glad to pay a decent price plus the shipping to CT....
Wanted to start a thread asking what made LandRover engineers design something in some way so as to be so annoying that it makes you want to ___!!!! Answers are not required to postings...... This is just a venting post...
I need a rear diff for my 2000 P38.
Anyone have a relatively low mileage one they would be willing to sell.
I’m not referring to the misses! This is something more relevant....
My 2000 P38 makes an every increasing mid tone whine from left side of vehicle but only when I’m not accelerating. The tone is higher at faster speeds and conversely, as I slow down, the tone decreases until it disappears at about 5MPH. It’s not the exhaust.
Both rear hubs, rotors and brake pads were changed in June of this year and I don’t believe that these are the cause of the sound. Tyres are newer since November.
Not much else I can type to describe the condition so....... any ideas?
But like telling doctor w]you have a pain but only when you walk.... what’s wrong?
Does anyone know how I can input the correct time and date into the JANES nav system on P38?
System works fine but time and date incorrect.
Does any one have a set, source or part number for the plastic covers that clip on over the exposed bolts that hold the seat belts to the B and C posts?
They are black in color and the only part number I van get from inside them is EWR10004XXX.
Broke 3 of the sh1ts taking them off.....
Procrastinated long enough and now pulling the trigger on “Operation Comfort”.
Bought the bags and am putting plans together to put H&H back on bags.
Compressor rebuilt and hoses all in place.
Anyone got suggestions on next steps to take on this project prior to me jacking car and removing springs. I’d like to have all the ancillary items sorted before taking wheels and springs off and putting her away fro the winter work....
Do I need any special equipment, 2 x jacks, etc
Now that cold weather has started here in Norther East USA I had noticed a strange set of occurances in AM. This vibration is not from engine and doesn’t happen when car is stationary.
Vehicle starts fine but when I drive the first 5 minutes or so it vibrates bad enough to seem like a wheel is loose. There is no banging or noises from it. This starts at 15MPH and will stay there up to 75 or 80. Eventually (7 minutes or so) it will stop and vehicle drives normally. It’s still on coils (a task I was supposed to handle this summer but now on burners to 2021).
Air pressure in tyres is fine etc......
Only happens on morning with temps below 5C.......
Anyone have this issue?
Got the P1412 code this am. Reset it and its come back.
Anyone have a good step by step fault guide to this?
What are best items to eliminate first?
Time to put new tyres on the P38.
Anyone have a recommendation for tyre size and brand. Vehicle is not used off roads and drives about 50% highway and 50% twisty backroads. Weather is typical NE USA....
She currently has a low profile tyres on her from previous owner and I left them on her as they were in good condition and looked well but I suffered with the ride quality.
BEST BRAND AND SIZE
Answers on a postcard......
Does anyone have a handy to for getting the glovebox you shut on both sides?
I’ve a LHD P38 and the glovebox kid on side closest to the door will not latch properly no matter how hard I slam it.
I know I am going to have to remove trim etc to get to the mechanics of it, but does anyone have a trick or such that they use to help get the bloody thing to latch properly?
After removing and replacing the rear rotors, calipers and pads on the H&H I was rotating the hub and bearing on the right rear side and found that in one particular spot the hub was catching. Certainly there was slight resistance. This same resistance was there prior to changing the discs and and pads. There is no play or rocking from either of the wheels that may indicate bad bearings with the wheel on and raised for testing.
I’m thinking that the right rear bearing is about to, or already has, failed.
Vehicle has 124,000 miles and had previous life on ranch in Colorado. It was a working ranch vehicle. A full documented history does not show the bearings serviced. What’s the lifespan of a bearing?
Question is, can those bearings be removed from hub and greased or is doing so just prolonging the inevitable? A set of hub and bearings runs $200. If repacking rear are the front soon to follow?