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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Does anyone have the rear license plate lense cover for a P38 that is not cracked?
Mine is broken in 4 bits and being held together with glue, tape, sticky rice (good enough for the Greatr Wall of China then good enough for a P38) and a prayer......
I need the entire unit that includes the black plastic and lenses.....
Glad to pay a decent price plus the shipping to CT....

Wanted to start a thread asking what made LandRover engineers design something in some way so as to be so annoying that it makes you want to ___!!!! Answers are not required to postings...... This is just a venting post...

  1. Why place the bolts on the P38 prop shaft in such a way that a speciality tool is needed that will only be ever used once in a lifetime? Why not make it accessible with an standard socket?

I need a rear diff for my 2000 P38.
Anyone have a relatively low mileage one they would be willing to sell.
URGENT
Thanks

I’m not referring to the misses! This is something more relevant....
My 2000 P38 makes an every increasing mid tone whine from left side of vehicle but only when I’m not accelerating. The tone is higher at faster speeds and conversely, as I slow down, the tone decreases until it disappears at about 5MPH. It’s not the exhaust.
Both rear hubs, rotors and brake pads were changed in June of this year and I don’t believe that these are the cause of the sound. Tyres are newer since November.
Not much else I can type to describe the condition so....... any ideas?
But like telling doctor w]you have a pain but only when you walk.... what’s wrong?

Does anyone know how I can input the correct time and date into the JANES nav system on P38?
System works fine but time and date incorrect.

Does any one have a set, source or part number for the plastic covers that clip on over the exposed bolts that hold the seat belts to the B and C posts?
They are black in color and the only part number I van get from inside them is EWR10004XXX.
Broke 3 of the sh1ts taking them off.....

Procrastinated long enough and now pulling the trigger on “Operation Comfort”.
Bought the bags and am putting plans together to put H&H back on bags.
Compressor rebuilt and hoses all in place.
Anyone got suggestions on next steps to take on this project prior to me jacking car and removing springs. I’d like to have all the ancillary items sorted before taking wheels and springs off and putting her away fro the winter work....
Do I need any special equipment, 2 x jacks, etc

Now that cold weather has started here in Norther East USA I had noticed a strange set of occurances in AM. This vibration is not from engine and doesn’t happen when car is stationary.
Vehicle starts fine but when I drive the first 5 minutes or so it vibrates bad enough to seem like a wheel is loose. There is no banging or noises from it. This starts at 15MPH and will stay there up to 75 or 80. Eventually (7 minutes or so) it will stop and vehicle drives normally. It’s still on coils (a task I was supposed to handle this summer but now on burners to 2021).
Air pressure in tyres is fine etc......
Only happens on morning with temps below 5C.......
Anyone have this issue?

Got the P1412 code this am. Reset it and its come back.
Anyone have a good step by step fault guide to this?
What are best items to eliminate first?

Time to put new tyres on the P38.
Anyone have a recommendation for tyre size and brand. Vehicle is not used off roads and drives about 50% highway and 50% twisty backroads. Weather is typical NE USA....
She currently has a low profile tyres on her from previous owner and I left them on her as they were in good condition and looked well but I suffered with the ride quality.
BEST BRAND AND SIZE
Answers on a postcard......

Glove box in forum Oily bits

Does anyone have a handy to for getting the glovebox you shut on both sides?
I’ve a LHD P38 and the glovebox kid on side closest to the door will not latch properly no matter how hard I slam it.
I know I am going to have to remove trim etc to get to the mechanics of it, but does anyone have a trick or such that they use to help get the bloody thing to latch properly?

After removing and replacing the rear rotors, calipers and pads on the H&H I was rotating the hub and bearing on the right rear side and found that in one particular spot the hub was catching. Certainly there was slight resistance. This same resistance was there prior to changing the discs and and pads. There is no play or rocking from either of the wheels that may indicate bad bearings with the wheel on and raised for testing.
I’m thinking that the right rear bearing is about to, or already has, failed.
Vehicle has 124,000 miles and had previous life on ranch in Colorado. It was a working ranch vehicle. A full documented history does not show the bearings serviced. What’s the lifespan of a bearing?
Question is, can those bearings be removed from hub and greased or is doing so just prolonging the inevitable? A set of hub and bearings runs $200. If repacking rear are the front soon to follow?

When I’m driving I am getting a sound from where I believe is underneath and to the rear of the vehicle. It almost sounds like a caliper is dragging but after driving 200 miles there is no discernible heat from the wheel. If I step on brake the sound is there and if I put it in neutral it’s the same. Sound is constant in gear driving, in neutral freewheeling and when I step on brakes. It’s not a high pitch screech sound but more like a constant slight constant grating but definite sound of metal on metal. A heavy type metal. It’s not loud enough to turn people’s heads and my wife in vehicle doesn’t notice it but I do.
There’s no way of recording the sound and it’s impossible to figure out where exactly it’s from so I’m hoping someone here may be able to interpret my issue, vague and all as it may seem.
Hoping it’s not a rear diff issue....

Ive been treating the H&Hs seats with saddle soap conditioner since the day I bought it 6 years ago.
Saddle soap has different properties than regular leather conditioners and is used, as the name suggests, in the equestrian field mainly for saddles and riding boots. It has Excellent waterproofing qualities and it seems to make the leather a lot firmer yet subtle, if that makes sense. After applying it generously I normally let it sit overnight then polish it next am. Have been doing this every 6 months and am really impressed with the results. It doesn’t give that gash bright sheen or sticky residue either.
We use it on the daily driver Landcruiser seats and that gets a hammering what with dogs and kids hopping in and out etc...
Just thought I would pass it on now that spring cleaning thoughts may be entering your heads.

I need the following part. Seems a bit paedantic to be in search of what would be considered an irrelevant bit but here goes.
On the lower rear bumper there are two circular cap ends just above the row hitch receiver. I need one of them if anyone has one.
My restored vehicle looks a bit off without one and I’m hoping that someone here isn’t too bothered about the appearance of their P38 that they could sell me the part....
Color not an issue

Since the Linley has been restored I’ve had her parked in the garage under wraps.
What I do, when I don’t drive it on the occasional non wet weekends, is put a jack stand under each corner, disconnect the earth/ground off the battery and leave her be.
Usually she will sit down on the stands after 6 or 7 days. The height of the stands are about 1” lower than the normal driving height when I put them in place. When I’m ready to take her out I start it up, close the doors and select normal ride height, wait for her to rise and off I go.
My question would be, is this a “good practice” method of storing her on jack stands? I’m trying to avoid the bags deflating and inflating as much as possible and I also understand that the EAS can wake and sleep if it’s not disconnected from power source.
Stay healthy....

I purchased a brand new OEM pax door handle, ignition battle and glovebox barrel (along with a valet key and 2 x FOBS) Kit last year from LandRover.
I installed them all without too much fuss.
Vehicle starts no issues but I am unable to get the key FOBs to work the remote central locking system. Doors central locking work fine when I use the key in door or push the knobs down inside but the FOB remotes do not open and close doors. Did the syncing method with flashing light key in door etc but no good.
Would be nice to get this system working.
Does this need to be synced at the dealership or is there a tried and true method?
Hair being pulled......

Came across this which you guys may find helpful..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-1089/EAS20-20Beginers2028Rev29.pdf

I have 2 very rare Holland & Holland P38 brochures in absolute mint condition for sale.
I was fortunate enough to come across a number of these items in a box that was sitting in a dealers showroom when I was in UK looking for a part for the P38.
While chatting with the parts guy he mentioned that they had a wiring harness for the P38 spots “in the back somewhere” that he would let go for a “reasonable offer” as it was only gathering dust and he couldn’t imagine anyone would ever want one these days. This item had the relays and everything needed to wire up the spots correctly and all in the original box, dust included.
The wiring harness I’m keeping but I wanted to pass on the brochures to anyone interested. They are absolutely flawless with no wear, dog ears, stains anywhere.
eBay item number is 283705911178