Time has come to part ways with the LINLEY.
I will be advertising it in the coming months once I figure out the best platform to do so.
“What are you selling it?” I hear you ask …. Simple reason is that I have put 21 miles on it since it was fully refurbished a number of years ago and it just sits in our garage, covered with a car bag and that’s it. I never drive it, because of its rarity, and only get to look at it once a month when I remove the car cover to start her.
I’ve no idea of its value or the market for such a vehicle but I’m sure time will tell. It was never bought as an investment opportunity but rather to rescue what was a piece of Landrover history that was falling by the wayside. Now she is completely refurbished and I’ve had the pleasure of rescuing her its time to pass her on to someone who has an interest in owning an “only one ever built” vehicle.
Changed the thermostat on my 2001 P38.
Had an absolute b%$%ard time trying to get an air lock out of it. I did every single technique written about “burping” the P38 but no luck. Vehicle kept creeping up to overheat and the thermostat would not open.
Finally I decided to drill a 3mm hole in the shutoff valve on the thermostat. I made sure that the hole was at highest point in the thermostat where it sat once installed. This allowed any trapped air that was between bottom of radiator feeding into the lower chamber of thermostat to escape. Issue I had prior was that there was air trapped her restricting the thermostat from opening….. that’s my assumption….. It may just be luck.
BUT….Success and now the thermostat opens…
I have a 2001 BOSCH 4.6.
I am suspecting that the 4 pin temperature sensor located on top of engine that I recently replaced is faulty or calibrated incorrectly. My engine has Secondary Air Injection and the only temperature sensor I can find (Part number MEK100160) is for non Secondary Air Injection vehicles. My current sensor looks the exact same with 4 pins etc.
I can’t find a part number for the sensor associated with the SAI system engines.
Does anyone know if it will make a difference if I use this sensor instead of a sensor that’s for SAI engines?
Having replaced the heater core, I put everything back together again, like Humpty Dumpty, and now the thing “appears” to have an air lock.
Symptoms are the NANOCOm is giving me a warning when its plugged in the the temp is going above 100C. I shut vehicle down and drained radiator and entire system from nut at bottom of rad. Refilled system again following steps in RAVE. Started up…. Same issue NANOCOM not happy with 100C.
After numerous various methods of bleeding system and usually getting the steady stream from top of radiator nipple I was still getting NANOCOM 100C warning.
I then replaced Thermostat and water pump but the problem is still there.
Bottom of thermostat is ambient temp, top is hot. Bottom of radiator is ambient and hose to top is hot. Running the heater gives heat so long as there is high RPM.
Is there a way to bleed this bleed in vehicle that’s tried and true? I’m at my wits end with it.
Heater core leaking
I’ve followed these steps, up to where I disconnect the pipes into the core, which has worked quite well….
Now just waiting for a recommendation for a heater core replacement that will not have me redoing this again.
Anyone got a suggestion?
Title sounds like an adult movie but…..
2001 4.6.145,650 miles.
Brief recent maintenance history:
Changed the plugs, leads, oil, filter, cabin filters, air filter about 500 miles ago.
About 200 miles ago after starting when warm she starts fine, idles fine for about 5-10 seconds then idles rough (about 600-850 RPM) for about 15-25 seconds then smooths out and no issues at idle or driving. There are no engine warnings and the NANOCOM is not showing any faults. I swapped a brand new MAF out with my other restored P38 to no avail. I’m running the highest octane fuel and did a Seafoam additive at last service (145,000 miles).
She starts without this issue when stone cold….
I’m losing about a quart of oil every 200-300 miles. The underneath is dry with no visible leaks. Nothing around the engine anywhere. No blue smoke on start up, no blue smoke driving. Nothing…..
I’m now also losing about a cup of water from reservoir about every 300 miles. Again, no visible leaks, no dampness after she sits. No white smoke, no rough idle and no issues anywhere.
Complete mystery….. half afraid that this is the signs of an impending head gasket leaking…….
Changing the rocker cover gaskets in a week or two or sometime ….. anything else that Forum members would recommend doing when I start the project whilst I’m at it?
Got to get the bloody dash fan thing sorted first though…..
There’s a small fan located at back of dash in centre console that is beginning to make noise at start of each drive then quietness. Before I was my day removing dash to access it does anyone know if this can be cleaned and lubricated to quieter down or is the sound the start of impending impeller death and a replacement should be ordered. It sits behind a small vent located in Centre console.
As an aside can the part number be shared and more importantly what in the name of Jehobahs beard does this fan do?
I have the following NANOCOM readings;
P0300 Multiple Cylinders Drive Cycle C, Occurred 4 times, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present
P1000 Cylinder 4 Drive Cycle C, Occurred 4 times, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present
P1000 Cylinder 2 Drive Cycle C, Occurred 1 time, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present.
P0306 Cylinder 6 Drive Cycle C, Occurred 2 times, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present
Nothing for other cyclinders. Nothing for cylinder 8 either.
HISTORY. 2000 P38 HSE. 143,000 mi.
About a week ago the vehicle would be a little rough on idle from start but only after the engine was warm and maybe she was sat for 15 minutes. No idle issue from cold start. Idle getting progressively worse but clears after a few minutes. Car drives fine but Ive put her in shed until this gets resolved.
Thoughts and what needs replacing?
Found the “damned leak” in HEVAC. Fortunately using the Nitrogen pressure test i sourced it with bubbles at the drier! Top nut wasn’t snugged down enough, actually was finger tight. All tight as a drum now and holds the 100PSI I put in for an hour at least.
I note that the system requires 49oz of R134a plus oil. Having never refilled a system from empty I need help with this.
Whats the technique for filling the system? Do I buy 4 x 12 oz R134a with the oil added or do I get the R134a and add the oil separately.
Any other tips, tricks, warnings or ‘lessons learned” before I pull the “trigger”?
Long story short…. Rebuilt one of the P38s from ground up. Replaced many, many parts and she works as good as new…. Except…
This was a tyre up restoration. Everything was removed. When it got the the AC system I put as new compressor, condensor, drier, expansion valve and evaporator in. Made sure all was secure. Went about the rest of the work.
Today, I decided to tackle the AC and vacuum test it. Low side will not vacuum to less than -1 and wont even hold that. High side will vacuum down a bit. I’ve obviously got a large leak on low pressure side.
Knowing where the evaporator and the expansion valve is located I’m dreading the replies I am sure to get here BUT…
If I am unable to get any vacuum at all on the vacuum test will my only solution to finding the leak be my removing and rebuilding the entire system again?
OR would it be worth my while to jury rig the pressure switch, forcing the compressor to accept R134 with dye added, so that I can try and source the leak with a black light instead of ripping the whole thing apart? My understanding of the system is that the compressor will not engage unless the system indicates pressure so byp[assing the pressure switch will allow the compressor to run and thereby pulling the R134 plus dry into the lines etc….
Ideally I should have pressure tested the system before assembling the interior around it….
Went to leave at early dawn. All dash instruments illumination lights inop. Radio works as does navigation system. The lights in the switches (front/rear fog) etc all work. The background illumination for these same switches do not work.
About two years ago I had a brake pedal that was soft and wouldn’t stop vehicle if I put it in D at start up. Giving it about 30 seconds and worked proper pedal was soft until pressure built up. Never would have issues throughout the day.
I replaced the accumulator and all was grand. Now the same issue is back again. I’m assuming it’s an accumulator fault again, BUT could it be something else? The accumulator would be the cheap and first fix I suppose?
Anyone point me in a direction to find out why my brake light seems to blow every 10 or so applications. Haven’t identified if it blows when pedal Is pressed for a long time or just from frequent uses. Volts to socket are normal.
Almost at the stage where I leave the cover off the access panel these days to save time putting one of the 10 replace r bulbs I carry around with me, especially after the local copper .left me off with a verbal when I promised to replace it…
Does anyone have a company in USA that I could get to appraise the LINLEY?
Been through a number of places and they all range between $10,000 to $23,500!!!! Obviously they base appraisal on the P38 with a small premium on it being a “special” vehicle.
Is there any way to tension/tighten up the bonnet/hood release cable(s)?
Looking at images of newer ones it appears that the end tabs are fixed so not much hope in adjusting there but wondering if there may be a fix…
Mines a little too slack for my liking when I go to release bonnet/hood.
Are the older ones prone to stretching over time?
Edited……. Just popped back out to look at cable…. Requires replacement…. Cable on pax side has frayed and is causing latch not to close.
Probably should have reviewed item prior to posting question…..
Carry on…. I’ll let myself out……
Was driving from Boston to Conneticut and all of a sudden started to hear a tappity sound from front right. Pulled into lay by and sound was coming from right side of engine but not consistently. Increased in intensity but not sound when engine was revved. Continued drive and there were times when sound was not there at all and then it would come back with no set speed or acceleration determining when the tapping sound came. Definitely coming from the rocker area of engine.
She has 115,000 miles on it and is due exhaust manifold gaskets and a complete exhaust…..
Comments suggestions or otherwise so as to help identify the culprit….
She’s a 2000 P38 4.6 …….
Ive had an ongoing issue with the H&H (2000 P38) for past three years. Not a big deal but an irritant. Like a pebble in ones shoe.... sometimes it bothers you and other times you never notice it.
If I am to start it and drive away without pause then step on brakes the vehicle will not stop immediately but come to a slow stop. Maybe roll about 5’ slowing down.... If I let it idle for about 15 seconds then she will stop normally. I changed the accumulator a year ago and issue cleared for about a month and returned again.
ANyone have a notion? Doesn’t happen in the Linley
Does anyone have the rear license plate lense cover for a P38 that is not cracked?
Mine is broken in 4 bits and being held together with glue, tape, sticky rice (good enough for the Greatr Wall of China then good enough for a P38) and a prayer......
I need the entire unit that includes the black plastic and lenses.....
Glad to pay a decent price plus the shipping to CT....