As this is the “official” selling section I’ll mention that I will be selling my LINLEY P38 soon….
Would rather it go to an enthusiast so I’ve only advertised it here and on RangeRovers.net.
I’ll probably put it on Bring A Trailer in 2nd quarter….
Time has come to part ways with the LINLEY.
I will be advertising it in the coming months once I figure out the best platform to do so.
“What are you selling it?” I hear you ask …. Simple reason is that I have put 21 miles on it since it was fully refurbished a number of years ago and it just sits in our garage, covered with a car bag and that’s it. I never drive it, because of its rarity, and only get to look at it once a month when I remove the car cover to start her.
I’ve no idea of its value or the market for such a vehicle but I’m sure time will tell. It was never bought as an investment opportunity but rather to rescue what was a piece of Landrover history that was falling by the wayside. Now she is completely refurbished and I’ve had the pleasure of rescuing her its time to pass her on to someone who has an interest in owning an “only one ever built” vehicle.
Stay tuned…
@Gilbertd, it didn’t add up for me either…..
But it was original radiator so 22 years out of the thing is a result.
As an aside, a laser temperature sensor is a tool everyone should have in their locker…
R&R the radiator. Turns out the radiator was fcuked…..
After running vehicle 24 miles the pipe at top of radiator reads 76C and the pipe at bottom 45C.
Alls well until the next series of problems……
Thanks Harv
Whilst your post and comment makes sense, I somehow thought that water exiting the radiator would be hotter than the 35C reading at hose leading from radiator to thermostat considering than the temp of water in rubber hose going into radiator was 89C. That would be a very efficient radiator to cool water 50C in such a short space
HARV, I don’t know enough about radiators or the coloring system to comment on that
Well this is a great post and some fantastic feedback and opinions.
Riddle me this…… After fitting the new thermostat, water pump, temperature sensor, drilling small hole in same said thermostat and changing a number of hoses I now find the vehicle runs about at 88C +/- 2C all day long regardless of traffic or slope. NANOCOM tells me I’m putting 64% load on engine at times but engine temp is 88 +/-2……
Here’s the bit that’s strange. I just drove 45 miles at about 70MPH on highway and after reaching destination I decided to feel the bottom of thermostat and radiator. The top section of thermostat is as hot as you would expect it to be and the bottom half I would label a lukewarm. I attribute this to heat transfer from the thermostats water in upper section transferring its heat to the lower section. The bottom of radiator is the same. I’m not able to feel the middle section.
How is it possible for this situation to exist? Engine and temps showing normal. I’m thinking there is a blockage in radiator but I am able to flush water through it freely (water runs through it with no apparent restrictions).
I’m ordering a new radiator as I cannot think of anything else that would impede the flow of water through the radiator then thermostat….
Correction re engine type Gilbertd…… however, you are correct re the design feature lacking in the non OEM thermostats and owners drilling a hole in non units should be an absolute requirement. Had I done this from the start I could have saved myself about 6 hours labor.
Changed the thermostat on my 2001 P38.
Had an absolute b%$%ard time trying to get an air lock out of it. I did every single technique written about “burping” the P38 but no luck. Vehicle kept creeping up to overheat and the thermostat would not open.
Finally I decided to drill a 3mm hole in the shutoff valve on the thermostat. I made sure that the hole was at highest point in the thermostat where it sat once installed. This allowed any trapped air that was between bottom of radiator feeding into the lower chamber of thermostat to escape. Issue I had prior was that there was air trapped her restricting the thermostat from opening….. that’s my assumption….. It may just be luck.
BUT….Success and now the thermostat opens…
Sensor turned out to be faulty. False readings for everything had me chasing down rabbit holes. I swapped it out for a sensor from my “donor” P38 and all is right in the world.
Sensor that I was sent turned out to be faulty. Replaced with a used one from my donor P38 and all is right in the world…
SUCCESS!!!!
I couldn’t for the life of me understand why the temperature was so high so quickly on the NANOCOM yet temp gauge in vehicle wasn’t matching. I bled it correctly and had changed the water pump, viscous fan, heater matrix and the thermostat (all part of my refurbishment of cooling system).
The only thing that it could be was a bad temperature sensor. So I plugged the NANOCOM into the other P38 I had and watched it read correctly up to 90C and stay steady, matching the gauge in the Holland & Holland.
I removed the “new” temperature sensor off the H&H and swapped it with the one that was now obviously reading correctly. BOOM…. Worked. Gauge in H&H reads correctly and the NANOCOM reads correctly.
Who would have thought that the temperature sensor could be faulty? Although, I should have guessed this because when I initially installed it the gauge in car never went above the 1/4 mark (as mentioned in another post here).
I’ve ordered another sensor (MEK10060) for the other RR and I will be interested to see how it works when I install it.
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions……
Lesson learned, not all new parts work….
I have a 2001 BOSCH 4.6.
I am suspecting that the 4 pin temperature sensor located on top of engine that I recently replaced is faulty or calibrated incorrectly. My engine has Secondary Air Injection and the only temperature sensor I can find (Part number MEK100160) is for non Secondary Air Injection vehicles. My current sensor looks the exact same with 4 pins etc.
I can’t find a part number for the sensor associated with the SAI system engines.
Does anyone know if it will make a difference if I use this sensor instead of a sensor that’s for SAI engines?
Well here are this mornings results
I disconnected both hoses to the heater matrix and using gravity (had a 3 gallon jug raised about 3’ attached to a hose then connected to the input line to matrix) I forced water through the matrix. There was some air in system but nothing dramatic. I then topped off the steel hoses feeding/receiving fluid from/to the matrix at engine side.
Results, I now have heat through the vents but only when I rev the engine RPMs. Not so much a result but a step.
Question, am I being led down a rabbit hole by the NANOCOM giving me the 100C warning?
After starting the engine with NANOCOM plugged in the temp reading from this unit gradually goes up evenly to 100C and then gives me the “100C eng temp” warning. (Side note I have installed a new thermostat, new water pump and viscous coupling). When I go below car and touch the thermostat (which reminds me of a heart with all the tubes feeding into it) all the upper pipes are hot but the lower pipe leading from the thermostat to the bottom of radiator is ambient.
There is return coolant flowing from the upper nipple on radiator and system is pressurizing.
I’m assuming that the thermostat “opens” at a set temperature but mine is not. I can’t tell if the temperature of the hoses feeding into the thermostat is high enough to trigger it to open, but there is always the coolant at other side of thermostat counteracting the temp of coolant. My understanding of thermostats is that they wont open if they don’t need to and can stay close on a drive if conditions are not met to open it.
If someone could go plug in their NANOCOM during engine start and let me know if their temp goes above 100C during start (mine takes about 3 minutes to get to 100C) I’d appreciate it. I’d also be interested in knowing at what stage their respective thermostat opens. I’m half thinking that taking it on a drive could run those air pockets out but am reluctant to do so with this NANOCOM warning. The temp gauge in cabin is staying put at 1/4 mark.
I’m at a loss with this as it only happened after replacing the matrix…..
The flows are correct. I put everything back how I removed.
I’m going to remove the rubber hoses attached to pipes into the heater core and manually fill one hose until fluid comes from the other one. I’m suspecting that the air lock is associated with the core.
What’s also throwing me is that the temperature sensor has been replaced recently and, as per a previous write up, is calibrate differently from the original one. My NANOCOM is telling me the temperature is exceeding 100C yet my instrument gauge is showing 1/4…. Not even half!!!!
I’ll report back tomorrow….
Having replaced the heater core, I put everything back together again, like Humpty Dumpty, and now the thing “appears” to have an air lock.
Symptoms are the NANOCOm is giving me a warning when its plugged in the the temp is going above 100C. I shut vehicle down and drained radiator and entire system from nut at bottom of rad. Refilled system again following steps in RAVE. Started up…. Same issue NANOCOM not happy with 100C.
After numerous various methods of bleeding system and usually getting the steady stream from top of radiator nipple I was still getting NANOCOM 100C warning.
I then replaced Thermostat and water pump but the problem is still there.
Bottom of thermostat is ambient temp, top is hot. Bottom of radiator is ambient and hose to top is hot. Running the heater gives heat so long as there is high RPM.
Is there a way to bleed this bleed in vehicle that’s tried and true? I’m at my wits end with it.
Changed heater core and O rings last week. Also changed the temp sensor on top of engine as it was part of my fault finding as I chased the cause of rough idle beginning 10 seconds after warm engine start that lasted another 15 seconds before idling normally.
Heater core replacement was painlesss enough and agree re wiggling pipes as you tighten the screw. There ended up being another 2 x 360 degree turns of the Phillips screw after wiggling the pipes, this after me originally thinking that they were tight enough. Been a week and 200 miles, no leaks.
I do, however, have another issue which I can’t tell is related to my work or a common issue.
I burped the system as best I could after replacing the core. I ended up putting approx the same amount of anti freeze in as I took out.
Remembering that I have a brand new temp sensor installed, I now find that when I drive that the temp indicator in dash is sitting at 1/4 reading and not the 12 o’clock position that it was at prior to the new sensor changing. The gauge doesn’t move up or down during a drive but stays in same position as if 1/4 reading was the norm. Engine idles fine and no roughness.
Any ideas as to why this is happening?
My first thought was air in system but I’d imagine that this would cause a high temp rather than a low one. My next thought is that the temp sensor is calibrated differently.
Beyond that I haven’t a clue…..
Heater core leaking
I’ve followed these steps, up to where I disconnect the pipes into the core, which has worked quite well….
http://www.brazeauracing.com/rangerover/heater/index.html
Now just waiting for a recommendation for a heater core replacement that will not have me redoing this again.
Anyone got a suggestion?
I have the NANOCOM and I will check engine temps tomorrow and report.
Thanks
Found this that may lead to Gilbertds’ thoughts….
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor - (from99MY)
The ECT sensor is located at the top front of the engine, adjacent to the coolant outlet pipe. The sensor screws into a thread in the inlet manifold and incorporates a sealing ring between the faces of the sensor and manifold.The ECT sensor multiplug has four wires; two are thesignal and ground connections used by the ECM, the other two are used by the body control module(BeCM) for control of the temperature warning lamp operation on the instrument pack.The sensor contains two thermistors with negative temperature co-efficients; as temperature increases,the thermistor’s resistance decreases. The ECM receives a corresponding analogue input voltagebetween 0 and 5V.NOTE: The temperature / resistance characteristics of the two thermistorsdiffer, and so it is important to maintainthe correct pin-outs.The ECM uses the information received from the ECTsensor to make adjustments to the engine operatingconditions. The ECM ensures a richer air:fuel mixtureis available at lower block temperatures for good quality starts and smooth running. The mixture is then made leaner as the engine temperature rises to maintain low emissions and good performance.For NAS vehicles with secondary air injection, thesignal from the ECT sensor is monitored at engine start, to determine whether the conditions are coldenough to warrant secondary air injection to beemployed. The ECT sensor is then monitored to switch off the secondary air injection when therequired engine coolant temperature has been attained.
If the sensor fails, the ECM uses a substitute software routine that changes default value during warm up,based on the signal from the inlet air temperature sensor. When the software model reaches a coolant temperature of 60°C (140°F) the ECM implements a fixed default value of 85°C (185°F). The ECM coolant model also forms part of the diagnostics that is performed for detecting a temperature sensor fault, as well as open and short circuit tests.
Temperature Voltage
-50°C 5V
-20°C 4.8V
10°C 4.2V
40°C 2.8V
70°C 1.4V
100°C 0.6V
130°C 0.2V
NOTE: All voltages listed are approximate.
A coolant temperature circuit failure may result in the following symptoms:
• Poor cold and warm/hot starting and driveability.
• Instrument pack temperature warning lamp willilluminate.
• MIL will be illuminated.
• Temperature gauge reads excessively hot orcold.
• Cooling fan will not run
• SAI pump will operate at engine start up even when engine is hot (NAS with secondary airinjection system only).
I will try change the temp sensor.