Went to leave at early dawn. All dash instruments illumination lights inop. Radio works as does navigation system. The lights in the switches (front/rear fog) etc all work. The background illumination for these same switches do not work.
Thoughts?
Changed the pollen filters on the P38. Something I’ve been doing bi- annually since I’ve owned P38s.
Often overlooked when servicing these vehicles. After two years these were minging….
Worth doing me thinks.
Great link for brake bleed….
@Gilbertd, are you suggesting with the symptoms that I mentioned in post #5 that my issue could still be air in the system? Asking cos I’m genuinely not sure. As mentioned, the air compressor for accumulator kicks on every time I press the brake pedal.
Thanks StrangeRover…..
Took it out today and every time I press the pedal the accumulator pump motor kicks on for 3 seconds or so.
Ordering a new accumulator now and will advise….
TY… Just to confirm, if I start the vehicle the pedal is soft until I “pump” the brake a few times and it then feels normal. In addition if I start it in the morning and let it sit at idle for 30 seconds the brake pedal will also operate “normally” ….. are both of these symptoms of air in system?
And on the subject, what would have caused air to get in the system? She’s never been low on brake fluid….
About two years ago I had a brake pedal that was soft and wouldn’t stop vehicle if I put it in D at start up. Giving it about 30 seconds and worked proper pedal was soft until pressure built up. Never would have issues throughout the day.
I replaced the accumulator and all was grand. Now the same issue is back again. I’m assuming it’s an accumulator fault again, BUT could it be something else? The accumulator would be the cheap and first fix I suppose?
Thoughts……
Solved…. Bulbs were sh1t…..
sometimes the easy fixes are the best. 10 bulbs for $20 sometimes isn’t. GOOD DEAL….
Anyone point me in a direction to find out why my brake light seems to blow every 10 or so applications. Haven’t identified if it blows when pedal Is pressed for a long time or just from frequent uses. Volts to socket are normal.
Almost at the stage where I leave the cover off the access panel these days to save time putting one of the 10 replace r bulbs I carry around with me, especially after the local copper .left me off with a verbal when I promised to replace it…
Good idea re contacting Dunsford.
I’m sure she’s worth a lot more than what quotes I have been getting. I did have a well known car guy from a popular TV show here in USA come by to see it and he wasn’t sure where to begin to try and value it. His thoughts were that it being a Range Rover doesn’t make it a high demand collectible vehicle but on the other hand felt that the fact it was the only one of its kind ever made and was owned by a celebrity (Pitt and Anniston) made it extremely unique.
He felt that the right buyer could pay above $150,000 for it but then on another day you would be lucky to get $35,000.
“How long is a piece of string” and “something is only worth what someone is willing to pay”…..
Does anyone have a company in USA that I could get to appraise the LINLEY?
Been through a number of places and they all range between $10,000 to $23,500!!!! Obviously they base appraisal on the P38 with a small premium on it being a “special” vehicle.
Installed exhaust system, manifold back, in 4.6. Easy enough project. Hadn’t realized how loud the old thing was getting until I drove it with new pipes.
Atlantic British for $449.
Thanks for reply GILBERTD….
Seems my P38 is having fits in threes….
Exhaust system failed, mysterious oil disappearance followed by hood latch cables fraying……
Fortunately I can attend to them all and the cost of purchase is only outlay.
Is there any way to tension/tighten up the bonnet/hood release cable(s)?
Looking at images of newer ones it appears that the end tabs are fixed so not much hope in adjusting there but wondering if there may be a fix…
Mines a little too slack for my liking when I go to release bonnet/hood.
Are the older ones prone to stretching over time?
Edited……. Just popped back out to look at cable…. Requires replacement…. Cable on pax side has frayed and is causing latch not to close.
Replacement ordered.
Probably should have reviewed item prior to posting question…..
Carry on…. I’ll let myself out……
@Gordonjcp-adm…. I change the oil in my vehicles every 5000 miles religiously. Ive never once had reason to check the levels in between. When changing the oil I will check the levels prior to draining and they have never ever been below the Full line….. I suppose, moving forward, I will be checking oil levels every 1000 miles or so. Lesson learned….
Still doesn’t explain where 4 quarts went to.
Took my son to his teams Lacrosse tournament in New Jersey. While sitting in the P38 between games he asks me why the red oil light is on. I look at dash and it’s not on. Thinking he’s looking at the TC light that was on, I’d just turned vehicle on to get some AC air as it was 38C outside, I told him that it would go out when we drove off and that the light was orange. He says it’s the red light and it’s an oil can. I look again and LO and behold the oil light is flashing every few seconds. I turn vehicle off and hop out to check oil level. Stick measure ZERO, ZILCH, NADA, NOTHING, EMPTY, FUCK ALL! Christ I think as I drop to my knees expecting to see and a Exxon Valdez slick. Underneath is dry as a bone, oil sump plug surrounds are dry, rocker cover joints dry…. I clean dip stick and put it in again. Nothing. I ask my son to google nearest petrol station…. It’s 1.5 miles. Do I risk it? We are 95 miles from home…. Do I drive 1.5 miles on what could be a dry oil sump…..
I flag down the first car passing the parking area. Explain the situation to him and he says he has to see this….. ( don’t know if he thought I was trying to hustle him or if he wanted to see what a dry oil dip stick looked like). After seeing it he goes to his car and hands me a quart of oil….. I thank him and start putting it in engine…. He comes back and gives me a second… no payment just a thanks is all he would accept.
My son and I have now time to go to petrol station where I buy 4 quarts of oil. Without thinking, I add the 4 quarts and drive back to the tournament. After his last game I go back and decide to check oil level….. BOLLOX….I’d overfilled it by about 2 inches on dip stick!! How could I be so daft? Knowing that the capacity of oil sump is 7 quarts +/- and having assumed that the oil dip stick went to the bottom of the oil sump I went and added 6 quarts to the engine…. Now I figured I just have 9 quarts in the sump. I needed to drain it…… I drove to Auto parts store and bought an oil bucket for collecting oil during an oil change and went to hot engine and removed the oil filter then drained it, installed the filter, cranked engine and repeated 10 times until I got about 2 quarts of oil from engine and dip stick show a few mm over MAX……
Lesson learned….. the oil dip stick does not measure oil level from the bottom of oil sump…..
Suppose I also have to figure out where 4 quarts of oil went since I serviced the engine 4356 miles ago….
Investigated tappity sound and I have cracked exhaust manifold on right side…. Further along I have both rear exhausts rusted and the center box pipes are no better. So bad are leaks that very little exhaust is emitting from either rear exhaust.
Question, whilst this has been answered in previous posts, as I’d like to get an updated reply, can anyone recommend a good brand and source for the mid and rear exhaust system for a 2000 P38 as well as a manifold for right side?
While I’m at it, should I just replace the entire exhaust system and one side of manifold while I’m at it?
Gilbertd, it was difficult to replicate the sound on demand. Was never constant and sometimes when accelerating it would not be there and other times it would come back. Never really lasted longer than 5 minutes then would be gone as quickly as it came. Had her in cruise control at 70MPH, opened pax side window as I passed a truck and you could hear the tappity sound reverberate then about 10 mins later passing another truck did the same and nothing. Ambient temperature was about 50F.
Was driving from Boston to Conneticut and all of a sudden started to hear a tappity sound from front right. Pulled into lay by and sound was coming from right side of engine but not consistently. Increased in intensity but not sound when engine was revved. Continued drive and there were times when sound was not there at all and then it would come back with no set speed or acceleration determining when the tapping sound came. Definitely coming from the rocker area of engine.
She has 115,000 miles on it and is due exhaust manifold gaskets and a complete exhaust…..
Comments suggestions or otherwise so as to help identify the culprit….
She’s a 2000 P38 4.6 …….
There’s thread creep and then there’s this..... ^^^^^^
Jesus wept