My son was hit by a van that ran a red light. Conveniently enough we had just installed front and rear cameras on it the day before. It’s the H&H which I had given him for a 16th birthday present. Insurance has paid up but we can’t find a bumper anywhere within 5 states and any beyond that either wont ship or want a kings ransom.

Anyone in the USA have a front bumper from a 99-01 P38 in good condition that they would be willing to sell?

Considering taking the LINLEY to its first public showing next weekend. All depends on the weather… vehicle has never been in the rain since its restoration…

British by the Sea, Harkness State Park in Waterford, CT.

Chance to see a unicorn.

Got the following codes on my 2001 P38 4.6.
P0154, P1300, P0308, P0306, P0161, P0159 AND P0158.
I’ve read the codes etc but looking for guidance as to what could possibly cause these to come on at same time. All were able to be cleared.
Plugs and leads were changed 14,000 miles ago and she has had no issues since except for the occasional P0440.
Thanks in advance

Is a 2001. Just need the wiring portion but will also buy the full unit

Does anyone have a P38 that they are scrapping? I’m looking for the front left foglamp, including the electrical wire and plug? Ideally I only need the wiring, plug and bulb holder as my lens is perfect.
Send me a message if you have one. Located in CT.
James

As this is the “official” selling section I’ll mention that I will be selling my LINLEY P38 soon….
Would rather it go to an enthusiast so I’ve only advertised it here and on RangeRovers.net.
I’ll probably put it on Bring A Trailer in 2nd quarter….

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@Gilbertd, it didn’t add up for me either…..
But it was original radiator so 22 years out of the thing is a result.
As an aside, a laser temperature sensor is a tool everyone should have in their locker…

R&R the radiator. Turns out the radiator was fcuked…..
After running vehicle 24 miles the pipe at top of radiator reads 76C and the pipe at bottom 45C.
Alls well until the next series of problems……

Thanks Harv

Whilst your post and comment makes sense, I somehow thought that water exiting the radiator would be hotter than the 35C reading at hose leading from radiator to thermostat considering than the temp of water in rubber hose going into radiator was 89C. That would be a very efficient radiator to cool water 50C in such a short space

HARV, I don’t know enough about radiators or the coloring system to comment on that

Well this is a great post and some fantastic feedback and opinions.
Riddle me this…… After fitting the new thermostat, water pump, temperature sensor, drilling small hole in same said thermostat and changing a number of hoses I now find the vehicle runs about at 88C +/- 2C all day long regardless of traffic or slope. NANOCOM tells me I’m putting 64% load on engine at times but engine temp is 88 +/-2……
Here’s the bit that’s strange. I just drove 45 miles at about 70MPH on highway and after reaching destination I decided to feel the bottom of thermostat and radiator. The top section of thermostat is as hot as you would expect it to be and the bottom half I would label a lukewarm. I attribute this to heat transfer from the thermostats water in upper section transferring its heat to the lower section. The bottom of radiator is the same. I’m not able to feel the middle section.
How is it possible for this situation to exist? Engine and temps showing normal. I’m thinking there is a blockage in radiator but I am able to flush water through it freely (water runs through it with no apparent restrictions).
I’m ordering a new radiator as I cannot think of anything else that would impede the flow of water through the radiator then thermostat….

Correction re engine type Gilbertd…… however, you are correct re the design feature lacking in the non OEM thermostats and owners drilling a hole in non units should be an absolute requirement. Had I done this from the start I could have saved myself about 6 hours labor.

Changed the thermostat on my 2001 P38.
Had an absolute b%$%ard time trying to get an air lock out of it. I did every single technique written about “burping” the P38 but no luck. Vehicle kept creeping up to overheat and the thermostat would not open.
Finally I decided to drill a 3mm hole in the shutoff valve on the thermostat. I made sure that the hole was at highest point in the thermostat where it sat once installed. This allowed any trapped air that was between bottom of radiator feeding into the lower chamber of thermostat to escape. Issue I had prior was that there was air trapped her restricting the thermostat from opening….. that’s my assumption….. It may just be luck.
BUT….Success and now the thermostat opens…

Sensor turned out to be faulty. False readings for everything had me chasing down rabbit holes. I swapped it out for a sensor from my “donor” P38 and all is right in the world.

Sensor that I was sent turned out to be faulty. Replaced with a used one from my donor P38 and all is right in the world…

SUCCESS!!!!

I couldn’t for the life of me understand why the temperature was so high so quickly on the NANOCOM yet temp gauge in vehicle wasn’t matching. I bled it correctly and had changed the water pump, viscous fan, heater matrix and the thermostat (all part of my refurbishment of cooling system).

The only thing that it could be was a bad temperature sensor. So I plugged the NANOCOM into the other P38 I had and watched it read correctly up to 90C and stay steady, matching the gauge in the Holland & Holland.

I removed the “new” temperature sensor off the H&H and swapped it with the one that was now obviously reading correctly. BOOM…. Worked. Gauge in H&H reads correctly and the NANOCOM reads correctly.

Who would have thought that the temperature sensor could be faulty? Although, I should have guessed this because when I initially installed it the gauge in car never went above the 1/4 mark (as mentioned in another post here).

I’ve ordered another sensor (MEK10060) for the other RR and I will be interested to see how it works when I install it.

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions……

Lesson learned, not all new parts work….

I have a 2001 BOSCH 4.6.
I am suspecting that the 4 pin temperature sensor located on top of engine that I recently replaced is faulty or calibrated incorrectly. My engine has Secondary Air Injection and the only temperature sensor I can find (Part number MEK100160) is for non Secondary Air Injection vehicles. My current sensor looks the exact same with 4 pins etc.
I can’t find a part number for the sensor associated with the SAI system engines.
Does anyone know if it will make a difference if I use this sensor instead of a sensor that’s for SAI engines?

Well here are this mornings results
I disconnected both hoses to the heater matrix and using gravity (had a 3 gallon jug raised about 3’ attached to a hose then connected to the input line to matrix) I forced water through the matrix. There was some air in system but nothing dramatic. I then topped off the steel hoses feeding/receiving fluid from/to the matrix at engine side.
Results, I now have heat through the vents but only when I rev the engine RPMs. Not so much a result but a step.

Question, am I being led down a rabbit hole by the NANOCOM giving me the 100C warning?
After starting the engine with NANOCOM plugged in the temp reading from this unit gradually goes up evenly to 100C and then gives me the “100C eng temp” warning. (Side note I have installed a new thermostat, new water pump and viscous coupling). When I go below car and touch the thermostat (which reminds me of a heart with all the tubes feeding into it) all the upper pipes are hot but the lower pipe leading from the thermostat to the bottom of radiator is ambient.
There is return coolant flowing from the upper nipple on radiator and system is pressurizing.

I’m assuming that the thermostat “opens” at a set temperature but mine is not. I can’t tell if the temperature of the hoses feeding into the thermostat is high enough to trigger it to open, but there is always the coolant at other side of thermostat counteracting the temp of coolant. My understanding of thermostats is that they wont open if they don’t need to and can stay close on a drive if conditions are not met to open it.

If someone could go plug in their NANOCOM during engine start and let me know if their temp goes above 100C during start (mine takes about 3 minutes to get to 100C) I’d appreciate it. I’d also be interested in knowing at what stage their respective thermostat opens. I’m half thinking that taking it on a drive could run those air pockets out but am reluctant to do so with this NANOCOM warning. The temp gauge in cabin is staying put at 1/4 mark.

I’m at a loss with this as it only happened after replacing the matrix…..