Sorted. What an overly complex design and engineering SNAFU!!!! From the strut to the cavernous two holes….. certainly didn’t have a Japanese engineer anywhere near “Project Glovebox P38”….

@Gilbertd, Are you saying you've lost all 4 screws as well as the square nuts?
….. that’s exactly what I’m saying.
The ziplock bag I put them in has mysteriously disappeared. I’m sure it will appear the day after I buy or locate a new set….
Unless I figure another way to secure the bottom section of the glove box….

Removed dash, and all associated, in order to replace both blower and blend motors.
Putting it all back together and I’ll be damned but I can’t find the 2 “plates” that are used at the bottom of glovebox to secure it to the vehicle. Can’t find the screws either. Got the upper three but lower set is missing. 2 days later I thought I’d ask here if anyone has a spare set hanging around in a jam jar somewhere that they would sell?
Thanks

My son was hit by a van that ran a red light. Conveniently enough we had just installed front and rear cameras on it the day before. It’s the H&H which I had given him for a 16th birthday present. Insurance has paid up but we can’t find a bumper anywhere within 5 states and any beyond that either wont ship or want a kings ransom.

Anyone in the USA have a front bumper from a 99-01 P38 in good condition that they would be willing to sell?

Considering taking the LINLEY to its first public showing next weekend. All depends on the weather… vehicle has never been in the rain since its restoration…

British by the Sea, Harkness State Park in Waterford, CT.

Chance to see a unicorn.

Got the following codes on my 2001 P38 4.6.
P0154, P1300, P0308, P0306, P0161, P0159 AND P0158.
I’ve read the codes etc but looking for guidance as to what could possibly cause these to come on at same time. All were able to be cleared.
Plugs and leads were changed 14,000 miles ago and she has had no issues since except for the occasional P0440.
Thanks in advance

Is a 2001. Just need the wiring portion but will also buy the full unit

Does anyone have a P38 that they are scrapping? I’m looking for the front left foglamp, including the electrical wire and plug? Ideally I only need the wiring, plug and bulb holder as my lens is perfect.
Send me a message if you have one. Located in CT.
James

As this is the “official” selling section I’ll mention that I will be selling my LINLEY P38 soon….
Would rather it go to an enthusiast so I’ve only advertised it here and on RangeRovers.net.
I’ll probably put it on Bring A Trailer in 2nd quarter….

.

@Gilbertd, it didn’t add up for me either…..
But it was original radiator so 22 years out of the thing is a result.
As an aside, a laser temperature sensor is a tool everyone should have in their locker…

R&R the radiator. Turns out the radiator was fcuked…..
After running vehicle 24 miles the pipe at top of radiator reads 76C and the pipe at bottom 45C.
Alls well until the next series of problems……

Thanks Harv

Whilst your post and comment makes sense, I somehow thought that water exiting the radiator would be hotter than the 35C reading at hose leading from radiator to thermostat considering than the temp of water in rubber hose going into radiator was 89C. That would be a very efficient radiator to cool water 50C in such a short space

HARV, I don’t know enough about radiators or the coloring system to comment on that

Well this is a great post and some fantastic feedback and opinions.
Riddle me this…… After fitting the new thermostat, water pump, temperature sensor, drilling small hole in same said thermostat and changing a number of hoses I now find the vehicle runs about at 88C +/- 2C all day long regardless of traffic or slope. NANOCOM tells me I’m putting 64% load on engine at times but engine temp is 88 +/-2……
Here’s the bit that’s strange. I just drove 45 miles at about 70MPH on highway and after reaching destination I decided to feel the bottom of thermostat and radiator. The top section of thermostat is as hot as you would expect it to be and the bottom half I would label a lukewarm. I attribute this to heat transfer from the thermostats water in upper section transferring its heat to the lower section. The bottom of radiator is the same. I’m not able to feel the middle section.
How is it possible for this situation to exist? Engine and temps showing normal. I’m thinking there is a blockage in radiator but I am able to flush water through it freely (water runs through it with no apparent restrictions).
I’m ordering a new radiator as I cannot think of anything else that would impede the flow of water through the radiator then thermostat….

Correction re engine type Gilbertd…… however, you are correct re the design feature lacking in the non OEM thermostats and owners drilling a hole in non units should be an absolute requirement. Had I done this from the start I could have saved myself about 6 hours labor.

Changed the thermostat on my 2001 P38.
Had an absolute b%$%ard time trying to get an air lock out of it. I did every single technique written about “burping” the P38 but no luck. Vehicle kept creeping up to overheat and the thermostat would not open.
Finally I decided to drill a 3mm hole in the shutoff valve on the thermostat. I made sure that the hole was at highest point in the thermostat where it sat once installed. This allowed any trapped air that was between bottom of radiator feeding into the lower chamber of thermostat to escape. Issue I had prior was that there was air trapped her restricting the thermostat from opening….. that’s my assumption….. It may just be luck.
BUT….Success and now the thermostat opens…

Sensor turned out to be faulty. False readings for everything had me chasing down rabbit holes. I swapped it out for a sensor from my “donor” P38 and all is right in the world.

Sensor that I was sent turned out to be faulty. Replaced with a used one from my donor P38 and all is right in the world…