No luck at LINLEY GROUP...
Surely someone has one....
Or even a Holland and Holland brochure.l
@No10chris
On reflection, I’m probably going to spring and buy the DA4245 set in hindsight. Car is too rare to be gaffing around trying to save 300 bucks on an exhaust....
That would be almost on a par to me taking it to Maaco to get it painted.....
The LINKEY is finally completely refurbished and I have completed 135 miles of road test on it. Only fault was a vacuum leak caused by a bad fuel cap.
Last thing to do are
I got banned (FOR LIFE NO LESS) because I asked him why he kept telling people to refer to RAVE when posters asked questions. I also pointed out that he may be better off saying nothing than posting answers like that.
He told me that he had gotten numerous complaints about my posts saying I was trolling. Considering that toads live under bridges, I would argue that he is closer to a troll than anyone else. I asked him to show me an example of an email complaining about me and he said it was private information.
Knobhead comes to mind.....
Hi OldShep
I don’t know how to add photos on this site....
Here’s a link to the other site giving details of restoration with some photos...
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/49239-linely-sale-michigan.html
Hi dhallworth, I don’t know how to post photos here but I have a link to another forum that I have included photos
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/49239-linely-sale-michigan.html
It says EAS MANUAL on start up..... had to go check. I guess I was so used to seeing it that it become common place.
I will check the plugs into the bottom of the ECU tomorrow.
My fear is by attacking this project that I will make a perfectly running vehicle into a ball of yarn and start chasing down a rabbit hole.
The only reason I want to change to bags is to get the vehicle back to as original as possible...... don’t want this to become a thread pulling from a sweater incident......
Changed the coil pack in the H&H. Had removed the manifold and all sundry to get to the bloody things.
Replaced the lot and went to start vehicle. Nada.....
“Bollox” says I... must be faulty coil pack.
Mate who just showed up and was drinking a cuppa tea asked me “you did check the wires were all put back in properly to the coil pack right?”
“Course I did,” says I “it’s probably shitty coil pack”.
That night after he left I removed the lot only to find both main leads into the packs had not been connected.
Still never told him it was my cock up.....
I’ve only tested for the tightness with the hub and bearing on vehicle. There’s a definite binding at one stage when rotating the hub and it’s definitely a bearing. I can feel it in the rotation.
I can buy the hub and bearing as a unit for $200. I don’t have a press so I think the purchase of an entire unit will be the way to go. Easy enough job....
Great that you guys are organizing such an event.
Can’t see me shipping LINLEY to UK passing the wife’s budget meeting....
I’m in Conneticut. About an hour or so north of JFK.
Welcome anytime, just bring beer.....
Recently bought a 1987 Mercedes 300TD in mint condition. One owner and full maintenance history from day one. Included in the receipts is one that was for “front driver side carpet stained” on the day after vehicle was collected by original owner.
What makes this car unique is that Mercedes only brought the 300TD (w124 model) into the USA for one year In 1987. This car is flawless. Also have a 2004 Landcruiser that the wife drives or is used around the farm.
Sold the Westminster last fall to someone who really wanted it badly......
Then there the unicorn in garage.
I am a bit pedantic about the leather in my vehicles, to the extent that I use an old toothbrush to clean between the stitchings in the seat bottoms. For cleaning I use Leather Honey Leather Cleaner with warm water and a rag. Ill rinse that off with another clean rag and warm water before letting it sit and then adding the Saddle Soap.
My understanding was that the H&H had Connolly hide, but as my wife will attest, I am usually wrong, so don’t take that to the bank.
Might seem a bit over the top for a 20 year old vehicle but it has kept the seats in very good shape.
The saddle soap works fine on the H&H interior but may not have the same effect on a beige seat. H&Hs have the dark brown leather with the appearance of a saddle. This same product may not suit every vehicles leather appearance.
The Landcruiser has dark grey leather and the soap works well on that but then again its a work vehicle....
Piling engine parts in the back seat of the vehicle you are looking to sell is never a good marketing ploy.
I’m imagining my misses face if I told her “just wanna stop in here and look at this ole P38 Westminster that’s for sale”.......
Nice looking vehicle but not at 1250 clams......
It was good to put faces to names.
Thanks again for the efforts made to make this site a proper discussion board....
Anytime suits me for next round.
For the cost to replace the rotors, pads and calipers it’s not worth faffing around trying to repair parts or pins. The inside of the rotor has deeper grooves in it than the Grand Canyon. Destroyed. So I need a new rotor, so have to change both. Pads need doing anyway, so there’s that. Add to the that the calipers are on it since day one and more importantly the fact that I do not want to have to do this job agin in the near future, you can see my motivation to change all three elements of the rear brakes. And there’s also the old saying, PAY NOW OR PAY LATER.
AC DELCO calipers at $82 each
CENTRIC rotors and pads $85 for the set.
$265 incl shipping
Both good quality brands and a lot cheaper that anything on flea bay
After removing and replacing the rear rotors, calipers and pads on the H&H I was rotating the hub and bearing on the right rear side and found that in one particular spot the hub was catching. Certainly there was slight resistance. This same resistance was there prior to changing the discs and and pads. There is no play or rocking from either of the wheels that may indicate bad bearings with the wheel on and raised for testing.
I’m thinking that the right rear bearing is about to, or already has, failed.
Vehicle has 124,000 miles and had previous life on ranch in Colorado. It was a working ranch vehicle. A full documented history does not show the bearings serviced. What’s the lifespan of a bearing?
Question is, can those bearings be removed from hub and greased or is doing so just prolonging the inevitable? A set of hub and bearings runs $200. If repacking rear are the front soon to follow?
Both hubs will be here by Tuesday so I’ll get that all sorted.
Seller sent me LR029522, (ABS contacts) free and suggested that I get 2) FTC2249 bushings. From what I read the ABS sensor fits into LR029522, and FTC2249 keeps them in place.
Are the above 2 parts required for the ABS sensor or can the old ones be reused?
$25 for FTC2249!!
Part FTC2249 was absolutely required for the hub. It’s a type of drop in plug that holds the copper part number LR029522. Without it the copper holder for the ABS would not be secure and neither would the sensor itself. I was able to remove both of mine by putting a socket on them from inside the hub and hammer them out.
In the above photo, the lower hub was the one one right rear that was giving me the issues. Both were in vehicle from new. No idea how it could have gotten so rusty.
FYI, doing the whole job of removing hub and bearings, replacing both rotors, both brake calipers and pads took about 3 hours. Removing the 32mm center nut took a 700lb rated breaker bar, a 6’ hollow steel pipe and my 232lbs hopping on the bar while the car was sat on its 4 wheels. Finally broke free with an almighty crack sound! Don’t understand why these things are on so tight considering that the nut has a type of crimp it uses to lock it in place once tightened. While I was at it I drained the rear differential and refilled it with new oil. I had PB Blasted all the parts a day before.
I’d give it a 6/10 for difficulty. Can be done by amateur...
It is rust and oil. Seems to have been a bit of water in there too. There was no sign of water in the differential when I replaced the fluids in that.
I don’t know enough about these hubs to know if the top hub in photo is exceptionally clean or if they are all supposed to look like that. I have to assume that at some stage it had been replaced prior to my buying it 6 years ago because surely they can’t stay that clean for 20 years?
As an aside, does anyone know why the hub has those two holes opposite to each other? One hole holds the ABS sensor and the other one just has a stainless steel cap inside it.