Ive now fabricated new battery cables (both positive and negative). I’ve run ground from battery directly to alternator mount/engine, also directly to right side suspension turret and from that turret directly to the alternator mount/engine. Positives are run as designed.
Thanks for all the input.
I’ve always found it frustrating when someone posts a problem they need help with on a forum and then never follow up when the issue gets resolved.
I changed out the original starter (which after resolving the issue I probably didn’t need to BUT with 150k miles on it probably wasn’t a waste of money).
After installing it I had same click, click, click and no starter engagement.
Checked relays. Power to relays. Continuity across relay plug. Power to plug 30. Cleaned all the connectors on battery cable to alternator and starter. Confirmed continuous power from battery to starter. Confirmed power from Engine Start relay to the exciter on side of starter. Everything checked fine but starter would not engage. Did everything Gilbertd suggested.…… Still nothing.
Sat down and had a think about it all over a cup of tea and was almost convinced that I had been sold a dodgy starter BUT thought the odds of the old and new starter being unable to start the car, along with the slow decline of the original starter pretty rare. I was, however, about to take the wheel off, remove the wheel liner and take the starter out to bench test it when I thought “It has to be electrical. Maybe the starter isn’t getting grounded”.
Went out and connected a jump cable from battery to the case of the starter and tried to start. BINGO… car started. Disconnected jumper cable from battery and nothing. So, I ran a ground cable from one of the nuts holding the case to the starter and ran it to the Negative of battery. Problem solved. Has started 15 times in a row.
Can’t for the life of me understand how I got to this situation with the starter and how it could have lost ground but that’s how the issue was resolved….. for now….
Comments welcome.
New starter didn’t fix the problem!!!
Same issues as originally posted.
Any suggestions?
Appreciated…..
Whilst diagnosing another issue with our 2001 P38 I noticed that the water hose than runs up and over the top of the alternator belt and into top of radiator had an unusual bugle to it. It was adding about 15% to the diameter of the rest of hose. I turned engine off and slowly opened the expansion tank cap and the affected area of hose decreased to its normal size. Engine cluster temp gauge rads 12 o’clock position and an infrared temp reader shows constant temp along hose from engine to top of radiator. This section of hose appears to be full of air, however, the small hose from top of radiator shows a constant flow of water when engine is hot.
I’m assuming that this is not a normal condition but am reluctant to change a hose just for the sake of changing a hose. I followed the manual for bleeding the air when I installed this hose two years ago.
Thoughts?
Thanks for replies. It’s a gentle “click, click, click”. Starter ordered from Rockauto and should be sorted soon…
Starting (pardon the pun) to get intermittent start faults with 2001 P38. After driving a few times and a quick stop of say 5 minutes, when I turn key to start I get a “click, click, click” sound and no turnover. This will happen about another 4 or 5 times during start attempts and then the vehicle will start. Has happened 3 times over past 10 start attempts.
I’m leaning on replacing the starter. Vehicle has 151,000 miles and the original starter. Ground and positive cables all look good and power is getting to starter. Difficult to replicate the issue when underneath ……
Anyone have this problem in past?
Thanks in advance
Sorted. What an overly complex design and engineering SNAFU!!!! From the strut to the cavernous two holes….. certainly didn’t have a Japanese engineer anywhere near “Project Glovebox P38”….
@Gilbertd, Are you saying you've lost all 4 screws as well as the square nuts?
….. that’s exactly what I’m saying.
The ziplock bag I put them in has mysteriously disappeared. I’m sure it will appear the day after I buy or locate a new set….
Unless I figure another way to secure the bottom section of the glove box….
Removed dash, and all associated, in order to replace both blower and blend motors.
Putting it all back together and I’ll be damned but I can’t find the 2 “plates” that are used at the bottom of glovebox to secure it to the vehicle. Can’t find the screws either. Got the upper three but lower set is missing. 2 days later I thought I’d ask here if anyone has a spare set hanging around in a jam jar somewhere that they would sell?
Thanks
My son was hit by a van that ran a red light. Conveniently enough we had just installed front and rear cameras on it the day before. It’s the H&H which I had given him for a 16th birthday present. Insurance has paid up but we can’t find a bumper anywhere within 5 states and any beyond that either wont ship or want a kings ransom.
Anyone in the USA have a front bumper from a 99-01 P38 in good condition that they would be willing to sell?
Considering taking the LINLEY to its first public showing next weekend. All depends on the weather… vehicle has never been in the rain since its restoration…
British by the Sea, Harkness State Park in Waterford, CT.
Chance to see a unicorn.
Got the following codes on my 2001 P38 4.6.
P0154, P1300, P0308, P0306, P0161, P0159 AND P0158.
I’ve read the codes etc but looking for guidance as to what could possibly cause these to come on at same time. All were able to be cleared.
Plugs and leads were changed 14,000 miles ago and she has had no issues since except for the occasional P0440.
Thanks in advance
Is a 2001. Just need the wiring portion but will also buy the full unit
Does anyone have a P38 that they are scrapping? I’m looking for the front left foglamp, including the electrical wire and plug? Ideally I only need the wiring, plug and bulb holder as my lens is perfect.
Send me a message if you have one. Located in CT.
James
As this is the “official” selling section I’ll mention that I will be selling my LINLEY P38 soon….
Would rather it go to an enthusiast so I’ve only advertised it here and on RangeRovers.net.
I’ll probably put it on Bring A Trailer in 2nd quarter….
@Gilbertd, it didn’t add up for me either…..
But it was original radiator so 22 years out of the thing is a result.
As an aside, a laser temperature sensor is a tool everyone should have in their locker…
R&R the radiator. Turns out the radiator was fcuked…..
After running vehicle 24 miles the pipe at top of radiator reads 76C and the pipe at bottom 45C.
Alls well until the next series of problems……