I’m setting about replacing the coils on the H&H with Arnott airbags. I received the bags a few months ago and when I opened the boxes this am I find that they do not include the pins that are used to attach the bags to the body. The previous owner removed the bags and did not reset the pins.
Does anyone have a set of spare pins for these bags or any knowledge as to where I can get them?
Nanocom code 018... PAX AIRBAG CLEARED OPEN
Fault appeared recently. In trying to clear the problem I’ve hardwired the plug underneath the passenger side seat and still have the above fault. Unable to reset with NANOCOM.
Could this fault be related to a loose connection in the SRS plug above and behind glovebox?
Getting SRS red light on instrument cluster.
Able to reset with Nanocom but it appears to come back after passenger sits in seat.
Is this a coincidence, and if not, is there a “squat switch” in seat that senses pressure from an occupant?
When I have blower control on HI both blowers run full speed.
When I select a lower speed setting, the right motor adjusts accordingly but the left motor stays on high speed.
I have R&R the left blower motor, separated the housing from the motor, cleaned the relay with contact cleaner and cleaned the internal components but the issue still exists.
I have noted that the relay for the left blower tends to get hotter than the one for the right motor but cant think of any reason for this. I did note a hairline crack running from one of the left relays ports to another port and, with that in mind, I swapped the entire fuse panel with another vehicles panel and the high speed only mode still exists with the left fan motor.
Questions;
AC compressor runs fine producing 37F air
Blower speed is on high and I can’t change speed on head unit from high even by rotating dial and getting low speed 1 bar symbol on display
Stopped vehicle and pulled out fan and compressor relays
Found fan relay was black and slightly melted
I put a new relay in and it got hot as a pistol fairly quickly then removed it
Any ideas where I should start troubleshooting?
I’m selling my P38 WESTMINSTER.
I wanted to offer it here on this forum before posting it on eBay over the weekend.
Vehicles paint is original and, as it has been kept in a garage it’s entire life, is in 8/10 condition. The interior is a 9/10 with no sagging headliner, no tears or scratches on the seats and the carpet in excellent shape. The entire AC system has been rebuilt.
The vehicle had been maintained by a Landrover dealership and later by a good quality independent garage. I have a huge file of receipts.
Reason for sale is that I want to repaint my Holland & Holland and focus on that vehicle. The WESTMINSTER deserves a good home.
It’s located in Laurel, Maryland.
I can send photos and details to those who are genuinely interested.
Email me at jmccarthyu3k@yahoo.com
I have had to replace the top window trim that runs the width of the upper windshield on the outside of the P38. As usual, it was easy to remove and as usual the replacement part is a mare to install.
Does anyone have any history with installing this thing?
Had P38 sitting for a few weeks after its paint job while waiting for the time to get her ceramic coated. Battery dead as a door nail. Started after a charge and a jump.
Driving to detail shop at 65MPH I was doing 3100RPM. She seemed to be accelerating through the gears fine but I never felt her drop to the final gear. Pulled over and started again but no change. Didn’t have an issue before I parked her up.
Question to forum, could the high RPMs be a result of a dud battery? Anyone have experience with this issue?
WESTMINSTER P38...
Stereo only plays sound out the right speakers.
Adjusting the Balance or Fade buttons makes no difference.
I’ve pulled plugs out of the back end of Nav unit but no change.
Stereo worked fine when I shut the vehicle off last night.
Any ideas?
LINLEY has finally be completed. Paint job finished and she’s ready for show.
The keen eyes amongst you may notice a few things I added to her that was not LINLEY spec but I believe makes her look neater and more sleek.
Firstly, I used centre caps from the HSE Sport (#LR094547) which are black with Land Rover in a silver logo instead of the silver ones with Green Land Rover logo.
Secondly, I replaced the front and rear Land Rover emblems with the HSE Sport Black emblems to match the paintwork and finally I had the body trim moldings painted to match the smooth gloss black finish of the bumpers instead of the standard black rubber look that was on the originals. I am going to get a ceramic coat put on it In May.
I left the mud flaps off for the time being to see if she looks more “civilized” without them. Haven’t made my mind up on that yet. The amber turn signal on the front body panel is not the correct one, the original was the clear ones, and this was put on in error at the paint shop (how this happened is beyond me because I didn’t bring it in with an orange turn signal) but since this photo was taken the correct lens has been put on it.
But she’s done and that’s almost 2 years work completed on her. Everything works and almost every part has been replaced on it. I’d be brazen enough to say that she is as good as new. The main things I’m proud of on her are that the air suspension works like new, the front heated seats work, the heated windshield works, there is no book symbol on the HEVAC Control, there are no faults in the vehicle, I’ve a brand new set of keys including FOBs and a valet key as I replaced the sticking drivers door handle and ignition key barrel plus the navigation system works and I have a full set of North American navigation CDs along with the Canadian set. The black lambs wool front and rear rugs are also still with the vehicle. An original mint condition LINLEY Press Pack, that was only given out in limited numbers, is also included with the vehicle.
I was also able to get a copy of the original build sheets for this specific vehicles VIN which included a list of all the special order parts.
About to turn my attention to the H&H and put her back on bags and the same with the Westminster....
I’ll post better staged photos of her after the ceramic work as the two I’ve attached here do not really do her justice but I wanted to show her as soon as she was complete.
Stereo in P38 went on the blink the other day. No volume control on head or steering wheel and sound only coming from one rear speaker and now auto adjust.
I unplugged the wiring from navigation unit in boot and stereo works a charm....
I don’t need the navigation system as it’s about as useful these days as using a paper map BUT being a stickler for keeping these vehicles original, I have to ask, will a replacement Navigation unit fix my problem or is it a different issue, all be it related to the navigation unit?
I’ve replaced the drivers door handle on my P38 with a brand new factory one. I got the complete set including ignition barrel, door handle, 2 FOB keys, a glovebox latch and a valet key.
All work fine BUT .......
I cannot get the key to sync the central locking.
Whilst there are numerous “this is how you sync the key” methods on the net, I am actually blue in the my face from trying.
I know it’s the techniques I’ve been using because I recently changed the battery in another P38 and I can’t get the central locking to work off the FOB.
So.... does anyone have a “tried it a hundred times and I guarantee it works” method to get the key to synce central locking remotely?
Does anyone have a P38 Westminster that they are parting out?
I need the sill plates that have the WESTMINSTER name printed on them.
Does anyone know what the maximum wattage Bulb I can use for the Safari 5000 driving lamps is?
Also, any recommendation on bulb type? Useage is for country road driving to and from work at nights...
....your family recognize you from your knees down more so than your face due to the time you spend under your vehicle.
The stereo won’t come out of the dash even when I use the factory radio removal tools
Have no idea what’s causing it to jam inside. I believe the previous owner had the original removed to replace it with another genuine P38 stereo. Won’t even budge
I’ve rebuilt two P38s from ground up and I have no short cut in mind as to how to remove the thing.
Anyone have any ideas that does not involve removing the Heater Matrix and jacking up the left rear end and having the sunroof open on a Friday during the second full moon, as seems to be the case with any P38 task!
Evening,
I have been searching fleabay and local scrappers but unable to locate a set of front mud guards for the P38 part number STC8535.
Anyone have a set that they would like to sell please send me message with price...
Cheers
James
Before he designed theP38 heater core location, with particular attention to the accessibility to said units “O” rings, he worked at Chrysler.
Try and understand his last video presentation before departing for Solihull, UK.....
As Spock would say... “facinating”