Richard, now only I saw this thread.
Though I'm not an expert on diesels by any means, must say that I too had a similar issue.
Looking at the data , you would see that the 'fuel quantity current' value is everywhere. Higher the no lower the quantity injected and 0 means flooding/
It should be around 5 when idling , hot engine.
Mine cured after adjusting it. You got to use 'hammer mod' to adjust the FQC.
Also, the timing modulation is too high as Chrisp38 noted, probably not starting when hot (unless hot start fix is fitted).
Does anyone know from where to buy the o-ring kit only ?
Update.
Battery +ve terminal cleaned and the charging jumped to 14.2-14.3v.
For me its very good as my old alternator dropped to 12-12.5v when AC ON. Now it drops only to 14.1V.
Rimmer's one fitted & running. Seems okay but max charging voltage is 13.8 V. Same as the one I had.
Hi,
I'm in search for an alternator, as a spare unit incase my existing decides to go south.
Rimmers of UK offers one at 138 GBP and said to be manufactured by Rotating Machines, UK.
Would like to know your views on this part.
Thanks
tiv68 wrote:
Hi everyone,
Eventually got round to having time to play and changed out crankshaft sensor while I was doing off side ball joints and track rod.
Now all good doesn’t miss a beat thanks for the advice .
I Doubt it. Crank sensor is located near the starter motor.
If the crank sensor fails. it will scream at about 3000 RPM, until you shut off the engine.
The diesel will start & run without the intank pump. In that case it will crank extra few times before starting and also will be sluggish beyond 80KPH.
Check the connection to 'stop solenoid' for damage and also the solenoid it self. If you have a spare one, change it and see.
Also, check with Nanocom , the ' fuel temperature' and 'fuel quantity current' value when idling (hot engine).
Lot of good info here. Thanks.
What purpose does it serve?
This may fit though its for M21;
Replaced the TCM with a used part from bay-e and works perfect.
Incidently, the thud from D & R too , gone.:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Thanks for the feed back.
I already have a 450W fan, from a BMW 520D car.
If it can cool down the car why not the RR diesel with less power.
I know that the original diesel alternator cannot handle the power needs with AC fully blasting. Hence the need to have a 150A alternator.
Once I get it, will definitely give it a try.
Hi,
I know this is a bit old thread.
Anyway, I too am looking for this conversion for my diesel and first hurdle is the 105A alternator. I'm trying to get a 150A one just like the V8 and failed with BMW alternator as they are PWM controlled. So must try with RR V8 alternator.
Tell me more about the performance, like say have you tested it with outside temps above 35 / 40 C?
With full AC and blower fans on max setting and idling in traffic etc.
1 is input and 19 output, goes to 4 soleniods.
Well checked power in pins 1 & 19 of TCM.
With IGN ON, 1 has 13.8v and 19 nothing.
Time to replace the TCM , and see.
Correct Richard. Every time I start it, after few seconds it goes to limp mode.
Nanocom gave 'solenoid power fault' and measured resistance of 4 solenoids are in line with standard figures.
Ruled out the battery too.
I'm thinking that it could be TCM fault code 1 where TCM internal relay malfunction.
A new battery (3 weeks old) from a friends car fitted. No change.
Initially no fault after few seconds idling, the gearbox fault re-appaers and dash gear indiactor vanishes.
Thanks Dave, got it.
Checked the earth points and no visible issues.
Must get a good battery from a friend and see .
Must check the earth points.
Anyone has a ATSG manual on 4HP22/24 ?
I'm doubtful of MV4 resitance, compared to others.
Hmm..... can't find anything wrong with the battery or charging.
Battery shows above 12.5v when engine off and stays around 14 V when it's running.