Hi Guys,
Yet another problem.
Today when I first started the car it didn't fire up though kept cranking. After about 3 seperate attempts it fired with a cloud of white smoke. Got onto the road and within seconds came beep beep and gearbox fault. Dash gear indicator vanished and car was moving slowly even with high RPM. Stopped and restarted , things seems okay. But after driving for about 5KMs it came back. Stop & start then back to normal. It happened thrice. Came home and Nanocom says 'Solenoid Power fault' (this is without indash gear box fault) . Tried to clear it , can't.

Can someone tell me whats wrong, please?

Only thing that relates is that yesterday the car was tested for annual emmision testing & the car passed it.
While testing they took the engine upto 3000-3500 RPM, few times.
Gearbox oil level is on high mark and oil does look okay. The battery is good with 12.6V with engine off and around 14 V when engine running.

The TCM connector, 19 provides power to all 4 solenoids (MV1, MV2, TC Lock, Pressure Regulator) and it could be either failure in that line or TCM itself does not provide power.
Measured solenoid resistance;
MV1 = 28.3
MV2 = 28.5
MV3 = 33.5
MV4 = 6.7
Your views please?
Thanks

Thanks.
Mine is diesel M51. So no worries about ECU and BECM link.
Main fabrications are engine mounts and M57 to ZF plate (avaialble after market I guess), anything else?

Just went throuigh the whole process, fantastic.

How did you get the ECU , BECM and trans ECU to talk to each other.?

Hi Marty,
For some reason, I cant see the pictures.......

Thanks

As Dave said, they advertised the st. motor as brand new Hella and what I got was refurbished one. To claim the refund I was asked to return the motor. With substantial courier prices from Colombo to UK , it was not financially viable to return the motor.

Second time it was my fault as I took it for granted. thought that OEM means original equipment manufacturer. But it was not so. It was a Britpart VC coupling marked OEM.
But I must agree that they are faster & cheaper compared to others. and ship internationally.
What I do now is to ask the right questions before ordering. For example, EAS PUMP marked Dunlop, when I queried whether they are manufactured in China, and they confirmed. May be Dunlop has a factory in China, but I didn't order. But the pump appear in ebay and with other sellers as Dunlop genuine. at a cheaper price. It could be the same pump that LR sells at a higher price. we won't know.

+1 on Dave3d.

Thanks guys.
When engine off, it's not tight. just the spring load. But when engine running, it's bit tighter.
I'll remove the carpets & lower plastic piece and have a look on this weekend.

No one?

Hi all,

I'm experiencing a bit of a tightness in the accelerator. It's hard to press , kind of a mechanical linkage feeling.
It's felt more with AC ON . Wonder what is it as it's a drive by wire system.

You need a special tool to insert on to the threaded shaft when you are refitting the front section Without that the seal will leak again.
I got that tool & the shaft seal from a US AC guy for my diesel P38's Denso compressor.
There is a good Youtube video on how to replace Denso 10PA series compressor seal.

Hi Sloth,
Just for information.
What is the current draw of the Volvo fan, do you have any idea.
I have a BMW 400W fan & was thinking of fitting it. But the my diesel P38 alternator 's max capacity is 105A and could create problems in a rainy night. Also, what are the fan thermostat open/close temperatures?

Type 2 is 255/55x18 one.
Anyway, got the point , it's not the rim diameter but the whole tyre diameter.

Will the type 2 tyre fit into spare wheel well?
My tyres are 265/70x16 and can't put into spare wheel well.

Once it finds the pump drive and fully seated use some rigi-foam or similar material to keep it tight in place. If you don't fix it properly you are going to damage the pump. Once you align the engine and about to fit the bell housing bolts you can rotate the TC through bottom opening to align the TC bolts with end plate, if required.

Joining the queue with other observers, though bit late.Because I too drive a diesel P38 fitted with 4HP24 box.
Keep rovering................

Got it , thanks.
Appreciate sharing valuable info.

Clive603 wrote:

RR

PM me with your E-Mail and I'll throw a pdf copy of my "complete" tool drawings across.
More than you need but its all there.
I think! Needs someone else to check them anyway.
My drawings are for one actually intended to be used with a pull screw as per the Laser tools "doesn't actually fit a P38" jobbie. Tried my set. It would work but nuts take a deal of turning to generate enough force to shove things in. Realistically a press is far better. Worst thing about press is holding things straight. Not quite got that bit sorted for doing on my own yet.

Or if you don't fancy making I guess I could box my bits up and send them by courier.

Clive

Hi,
I would like to receive your PDF & pm SENT.
Thanks in advance.

Dave, it could be the turbo or related hoses leaking.

Hi,
Nice to see birth of another Range Rover forum.
Hope that more diesel heads will join.
Keep rovering.

Kapila