My local garages certainly believe masking a fault is as good as fixing it. Whilst I know it isn't, I don't want to think about how long one abs sensor had a cable tie keeping the cable in a position where the loom/connections were happy.

I've had a pin on my collections for a while, feels like years but might be wrong.

Not sure how this protects the seller? Yes - you have the code (pin or 2d barcode) but what stops the buyer claiming they left without the item or (worse) that the item is 'fake'?

One pin collection, the guy wanted the pin upfront so he could leave the item at the back of his farm and not have to meet me (understandable if you've met me). We did sort it out but it was uncomfortable - fortunately, the deal was good

In the last 26 years, I've only lost 5 or 6 times. Probably been 10 times that in bad attempts.

More annoying than anything, especially where I've been really helpful to the buyer.

I'm ready to take the risk this time, just have to promise myself that I won't get upset if things go bad.

Fingers crossed, advert going up tonight.

A rare case of "UK roads benefitted my car"

Yeah, didn't say size either so I had to ask.
I found 19" and 17" that looked like this.

Back to old 'bay. I wonder what new ways of shafting the seller have been invented since my last visit? Here's hoping I don't find out

Thanks Gilbertd.
I'll try to get about 25% of that price (after fees) as these have paint chips with minor scuffs in places.
Those eBay ones look like a good deal with new tyres.

These are left over from my 2002 P38.

8Jx18

Are these right for a late P38 (with the non ribbed leather seats)?

Only asking as I can't find these on the usual auction sites.

Many thanks

Keith

Remember that air cannot enter and leave the
system at the same time.

Yep, I have to hold my breath to fart as well

Perhaps (once parked) replace the height sensors with resistors temporarily? See if the parked behaviour changes?Poor carbon tracks on the pots or just elderly wiring/connections could easily cause this behaviour (and the chances of the sensors/wiring being faultless must be fairly low).

Gilbertd wrote:

That sounds a lot. Tax on a pre-2001 P38 is only £30 a month and .... loading anything later than 2010.

If you are going for limited mileage, then a Classic policy might be an option.

Many thanks for the advice Gilbert (and your great support here and on the lpg forum over the past 15 years).

The obscene insurance quote was from a classic insurer. The car is 2002.

It's not just the cost that requires me to move my p38s on. My house, garage and now garden are full of projects I'm clearly not going to get around to. To regain a little of my sanity - I need to have a big, uncomplicated clear out. I would love to keep parts to sell separately - but this must be limited to easy parts. I will start a thread showing scrap yard offers etc and ask some advice on the wheels from the '02 and those unusual nappa seats.

I still have the Polo breadvan and once the p38s are gone, the Polo can be returned to the road.

Today I've decided the p38 (and a spares car) need to go. Insurance is now so ridiculous I can't justify keeping them. Tax & insurance >£2k even with very limited miles. I can get traders insurance but I don't have a big car collection, just the old p38s.

Sad times, I've only had them about 5 years/18months.

Will be back to pick brains about types of wheels and seats before I finally send these great old machines on their way.

nigelbb wrote:

....found the correct fuse I confirmed that it had blown & replaced it. The seat can now be adjusted again...

If the seat fuse is blowing WITHOUT you pressing buttons, you might want to look at the inflatable lumber support. (I beleive) this is the only seat function that has a switched negative (it has a live unswitched wire in the seat back). You can access this wire without removing the seat but I didn't find this out in time.

Recharged accumulator fitted.
Three amigos have run for the hills.
I can now creep along without abs faults.
Pedal no longer creeks.
Brake motor only runs every three presses (not every time I touch the pedal).

The pedal was pumped over 50 times to depressurise before I removed the old accumulator. When I did this on the donor car, the acc came off dry (diaphragm was intact on that one).

When removing the acc from the running car, the kitchen roll was overcome when the old acc dumped ~50ml of fluid. This fluid was NOT under pressure. The diaphragm was totally split and the acc was carrying a lot of brake fluid.

Clive/Gilbert- thanks for the bleeding advice. I haven't done the full bleed yet, but looking at the colour of the fluid - this is well overdue.

Hi Clive, thanks for the great explanation.

There is no shortage of tools at my place 😉. Favorite phrase 'all the gear and no idea". Pipe spanners, hex sockets etc. I've had many years of snapping screws, stripping threads and chiselling delicate castings when filth is covering that last bolt.

I'm sure to make many more mistakes, if I ever feel I can't learn, that's when I'll stop.

I had a contract at a print shop and they kindly printed the manual for me. I do have garage laptops (running rave and other 'pro' software as VMs).

Before starting the full bleed, I will 'crack' all the nipples and retighten. I understand a full bleed is an excellent idea, especially given mileage and unknown history. There is a little job to be done for a ball joint boot (hoping the boots I have will fit) and a lightly corroded hose that wants checking.

This is one of those cars where I thought I knew enough to identify the usual problems. I was wrong. Lots to do, careful prioritising required.

One thing for sure, without guidance from real people who have actually done the jobs (like Gilbertd and yourself), I wouldn't even attempt this sort of thing. RAVE is great, but I need to use it in conjunction with access to a forum like this with patient people.

Thanks again, hopefully the acc will arrive this weekend and the car will remain driveable.

Diaphram taking up whole space makes sense (now you've explained it).

The old one seemed to have a void that could hold air, but the recharging guy is happy.....

Get all the pressure out of the system (ignition off, loads of pedal presses...

New oring, RAVE bleed step1 and see if the 3 amigos run for the hills. Hopefully the motor doesn't run every time the pedal is touched and ABS faults are not reported when crawling with foot on brake. Of course, this could just be the first of the worms from a freshly opened can...

Thanks again

A recharged accumulator is on its way.
Reading RAVE, I can see the guide for bleeding brakes.

Reading another forum (a long time ago) I think it talked about new acc being prefilled with brakefluid??

The one sent away for recharging was dry. There was a tiny amount of fluid in the hole that i unthreaded the acc from.

Am I missing something in RAVE?
Should the acc be full of air below the diaphragm? (Nitrogen above the diaphragm when fitted).
RAVE warns about catching fluid in a rag when removing acc.

Compressing the air under the diaphragm sounds OK but what stops brake fluid bouncing up displacing air into the pump? (not that I offroad it).

The scrap car I removed the acc from braked OK with the dry acc. That car managed two brake pedal pushes before the noisey pump ran. Current car, brake pump runs as soon as you touch pedal (this pump is very quiet, hard to hear in car).

Many thanks

Edit to remove bearing numbers. I still have one left over, so not sure what I fitted (but it was a standard bearing).

Now fitted and charging nicely, with a used spare in the boot (give it a couple of weeks before I trust it)

leolito wrote:

I have a related question for a friend, how do you actually extract the cable from the firewall? There is some grommet but it seem very stuck...

I tried to buy a used one. The breakers phoned me asking how to extract it. That failed.

Another breakers had one. I paid £50. They sent it with the plastic Bush snapped and a kinked inner. This would have helped someone who had a snapped cable.
But was no better than my current one (returned for refund).

I have used classic cable makers for another old (not classic) car. They preferred me to source a similar cable for modification.

It's going to be a while before I get round to looking at this - probably just going to keep pushing oil down the old cable and put up with it snagging

Brush size 5.8mm x 3.8mm.
Guessing length to be (not more than) 22mm.
This brush holder has 10mm of brush exposed when slack.
ERR5834 150A BOSCH 4.6 Thor

Gilbertd wrote:

That means it is a 98 model year car so will have the Wabco C ABS system with 2 wheel traction control, your 2001 will have Wabco D with 4 wheel traction control.

Thanks, I didn't even know of 2wTC RR. Didnt realise my 98 had TC. it doesn't have a TC dash light (or it has been blanked 😀)