Brush size 5.8mm x 3.8mm.
Guessing length to be (not more than) 22mm.
This brush holder has 10mm of brush exposed when slack.
ERR5834 150A BOSCH 4.6 Thor

Gilbertd wrote:

That means it is a 98 model year car so will have the Wabco C ABS system with 2 wheel traction control, your 2001 will have Wabco D with 4 wheel traction control.

Thanks, I didn't even know of 2wTC RR. Didnt realise my 98 had TC. it doesn't have a TC dash light (or it has been blanked 😀)

Many thanks Clive.
I've never messed with auto gearboxes.
Understanding that I'm only changing part (probably just over half) the oil took a while to sink in.

After an oil and filter change, let's see how much debris there is (and if the current issue resolves).

Seller made a few unsubstantiated claims about changing oil. Will post back here. Especially if I get some really nasty stuff out.

It's a WA VIN

Mirror function restored, thanks.
Good job I had the nano handy, whilst the memory buttons work, the buttons to move the seat do not. Both stored positions were for people who would have needed a ladder to get in. Accidentally touching one button nearly cured my knee problems permanently.

Thanks. Accumulator and abs sensors were the only parts i was going to keep (from the braking system). If the pump can be removed without totally loosing brakes, I will keep that and the relay.

Slowly stripping out switch panels, stereo, door locks, heater fans, window mechanism, seat switches, seat ecu, roof bars, sunroof, towbar&electrics, mirrors, wiper motor, Swapping wheels for tatty bald ones. Already had lights and the recent lpg parts. Will keep bottom tailgate but can't justify garage space for doors, seats etc.

The engine seems OK, one bad coil, I might have one last go at offing the remainder to someone after the 4.6 with running gear - but not very hopeful.

It's still possible I could move it to a friends then keep drive shafts, hubs, steering and calipers (for overhaul) - but there needs to be some delicate negotiation, probably not realistic.

I will check vin, but I think its 1998 registered in 99.

Many thanks. Will do and update.

Hi.
My 120k 2001 4.6 gearbox sometimes is slow to engage first gear when the car is taken from park to drive. It can be 4 or 5 seconds.

I have never had this problem from park to reverse (but the problem could be there, it doesn't happen every time).

The fault occurs both when the car is just started AND when it has been idling for a few minutes.

Once the problem has occurred, it won't happen again the same day.

When it engages drive (after the faulty pause), it makes a single knock noise. Usually, it engages silently.

When working, it works well (very smooth).

The only other issue is very rare. It displays "gearbox overheat" but only in really cold weather and only within 3 minutes of starting the car for the first time (useally, before I pull away).

I'm guessing the best diagnostic route would be to change the oil and filter first? Nothing useful for me to do with the Nanocom?

Many thanks again all.

Asking for help instead of helping us? What a topsy-turvy place this forum has become.

Obviously you're onto the issue and I'd be well out of my depth.

I'm replying because I'm preparing my 4.6 1998(99) for being driven on to the back of a scrappers tow truck.

The abs system was working. I plan on removing the wheel sensors (as spares for my 2001). I want to be able to drive the thing onto the scrappers truck (the car is down a narrow lane).

I'm guessing things like ABS ecu can be cut off without disabling brakes. If you might have a use for this, for connectors etc - just let me know.

I'm keeping all the obvious stuff that may be useful for my 2001 - but if there is anything else I can give you (without disabling the car), get in touch.

I've already removed the accumulator and blanked off the port with a VX sump plug (aluminum and very cheap).

The brakes still have pressure - but in case anyone from another forum is here "I won't be driving this thing on the road, I have labelled the speedo defective brakes, do not move"

Good luck.

I've not (yet) had a rangerover with this issue. I did have a passat with this problem, a narrow vacuum cleaner end was all it needed to revive that.

My favorite non-greasy spray can cleaner is "brake and clutch" cleaner. But, since trichloroethane fell foul of regs - I can only find alcohol/butane mix. Could be problematic spraying this stuff into an enclosed space (especially with abundant sources of ignition). Nov 5th could come early.

Would only expect a solvent to be necessary if there is tar/nicotine build up. Hopefully compressed air (dry) ŵill do the job if the vac cleaner fails.

Thanks Gilbertd. Agreed, we want the orings to move with expansion/contraction. A solid (expoy like) seal will fail sooner than nothing.

If you've had plenty of success with LR seals, I will use those.

I'm not going to try, but it would be interesting to see softer silicone orings inplace of the nitrile ones. I suspect silicone orings were rarely selected in those days. I think of nitrile orings as hard - great to grease and use to waterproof rotating switch shafts etc.
Cars etc from late 90s on, I think silicone orings and gaskets (thermostat covers etc) are common (softer, better temperature range, more forgiving providing there is very little movement)

Ordering LR today, wish me and my battered knuckles luck 😀

Thanks madas.
I can see a few genuine orings around £12 a pair.
If these are 10 or 20 years old, wouldn't it be better to use recently made ones (providing I use good quality)?

What's the reason for rejecting silicone? Is it because of diy abominations that you've had to unpick, or is there an engineering problem (other than getting silicone in the cooling system)?

I've pulled silicone blobs from oil ways on small engines I've bought, it is saddening. And nothing is as ugly as big pile of silicone sticking out both sides of the gasket 😀.

My first thought was a little wellseal (the sticky brown trichloroethane solvent stuff). This might be a bit too sticky, almost like trying to seal it with epoxy 😀. A small amount of good quality silicone (not hylomar or bath sealent) will allow the orings to move as the assembly expands and contracts.

I'm all for fitting original gaskets with out sealent, it is what the manufacturer designed. But I'm from a jap motorcycle background. Gaskets are extremely expensive, casting gasket faces are a little rough (makes for a good seal) and it's usually very difficult to remove your expensive cover gasket in one peice (even when just fitted) unless you first coat in a thin layer of sealant (like wellseal).

Many thanks

Hi.
Hoping to change heater matrix orings on RHD.
YouTube makes it look possible.

Reading about others attempts....
One user suggesting using larger rings. Standard 22x2.5mm? Using 22x3mm instead?

One user is adding much sealant around standard rings.

Lots of cheap nitrile rings listed, but VXs ive bodged use silicone not nitrile rings (on cooling hoses). Are the LR parts nitrile or silicone?

Should I just stick to the standard rings? Am I likely to get 5+ years from standard parts?

If I do add sealant, can I use my favorite wellseal or should this be silicone? (Don't want silicone in the heater water/matrix).

Thanks again

The brush holder is a little wider at end. Bit tight in rubber seal but probably ok.

Slip ring looks good.

Regulator currently on amazon and autodoc. <£10
HC-Cargo 134761 Alternator Regulator
Voltage: 14V
Article number: 134761
EAN: 2248198963202

I have not fitted and tested this yet, but looks ok could be from a lower powered alternator? May need to use brushes from this on the original bosch part. Cross references suggest this is not suitable. Some (cargo brand) of this part number do not have a visible resistor.

My local alternator repair shop, no longer repairs alternators. Still auto electrical but now just buys in complete units. It was about 30 years ago I last bought from them.

He did find me a slip ring and a regulator - so here we go for a rebuild....

Slip ring looks great. Regulator, I'm not so sure. I might look at extracting the brushes from the new reg and installing them in my old reg. May be fit the new reg and keep the old one safe for now.

http://sparksautoelectrical.co.uk/

Martyuk wrote:

I did manage to find the slip rings and brushes somewhere on eBay awhile ago (I think they came from Ireland?) as they were the same as a different Bosch model.

I don't know if I still have all the information from when I did mine years ago, but I'll have a look and see if I made any notes.

Many thanks Marty. I did see some slip rings with dimensions that could be close enough. No regulator blocks at reasonable prices. Could just replace brushes but there is some corrosion to the spot welded connections - hopefully I could solder the joints.

Gilbertd wrote:

Just edited your post so the pictures show. No matter what hosting you use, as long as the file ends in .jpg, it will work.

In your case, the top picture is https://i.postimg.cc/25dMvmDM/20240401-200138.jpg, while the bottom one is https://i.postimg.cc/JzFZqB1B/20240401-195939.jpg

When typing your reply, put the cursor where you want the picture, click on the box with a picture in it (5th one along), paste the URL for the image into the pop up box that appears and click OK. That then puts the picture into the post. If you click on Preview, you can see what it will look like.

Thanks Gilbertd.
When using post image site, I must copy the "direct link". There are about six options, it's the direct link that I've used here.

Hi,
I replaced my thor alternator ERR5834 (150amp) after brushes failed. The replacement was a cheap second hand unit.

Hoping to rebuild the alternator. Bearings found easily. Slip ring and regulator block (or just brushes) only seem to be available with expensive overseas shipping and the risk of duties (when it arrives in uk).

If I want to attach photos here, what hosting site is recommended?

I will try a local alternator shop tomorrow, but last time I spoke to them - they only wanted to supply and fit their recon/exchange. The pricing was way too high for a 'diy bodger' but would be a bargain for a genuine dealer fan boy.

Slip ring has a number 1238
Regulator block 1 197 311 549

Will update after speaking to local rewind shop, but its looking like I need to buy a refurb unit.