The brush holder is a little wider at end. Bit tight in rubber seal but probably ok.
Slip ring looks good.
Regulator currently on amazon and autodoc. <£10
HC-Cargo 134761 Alternator Regulator
Voltage: 14V
Article number: 134761
EAN: 2248198963202
I have not fitted and tested this yet, but looks ok could be from a lower powered alternator? May need to use brushes from this on the original bosch part. Cross references suggest this is not suitable. Some (cargo brand) of this part number do not have a visible resistor.
My local alternator repair shop, no longer repairs alternators. Still auto electrical but now just buys in complete units. It was about 30 years ago I last bought from them.
He did find me a slip ring and a regulator - so here we go for a rebuild....
Slip ring looks great. Regulator, I'm not so sure. I might look at extracting the brushes from the new reg and installing them in my old reg. May be fit the new reg and keep the old one safe for now.
Martyuk wrote:
I did manage to find the slip rings and brushes somewhere on eBay awhile ago (I think they came from Ireland?) as they were the same as a different Bosch model.
I don't know if I still have all the information from when I did mine years ago, but I'll have a look and see if I made any notes.
Many thanks Marty. I did see some slip rings with dimensions that could be close enough. No regulator blocks at reasonable prices. Could just replace brushes but there is some corrosion to the spot welded connections - hopefully I could solder the joints.
Gilbertd wrote:
Just edited your post so the pictures show. No matter what hosting you use, as long as the file ends in .jpg, it will work.
In your case, the top picture is https://i.postimg.cc/25dMvmDM/20240401-200138.jpg, while the bottom one is https://i.postimg.cc/JzFZqB1B/20240401-195939.jpg
When typing your reply, put the cursor where you want the picture, click on the box with a picture in it (5th one along), paste the URL for the image into the pop up box that appears and click OK. That then puts the picture into the post. If you click on Preview, you can see what it will look like.
Thanks Gilbertd.
When using post image site, I must copy the "direct link". There are about six options, it's the direct link that I've used here.
Hi,
I replaced my thor alternator ERR5834 (150amp) after brushes failed. The replacement was a cheap second hand unit.
Hoping to rebuild the alternator. Bearings found easily. Slip ring and regulator block (or just brushes) only seem to be available with expensive overseas shipping and the risk of duties (when it arrives in uk).
If I want to attach photos here, what hosting site is recommended?
I will try a local alternator shop tomorrow, but last time I spoke to them - they only wanted to supply and fit their recon/exchange. The pricing was way too high for a 'diy bodger' but would be a bargain for a genuine dealer fan boy.
Slip ring has a number 1238
Regulator block 1 197 311 549
Will update after speaking to local rewind shop, but its looking like I need to buy a refurb unit.
I have a broken cable from a thor, am going to see if I can get one made.
Maybe you're right Harv, it looks like metal could be used instead of plastic for the firewall tube, perhaps wrap in amalgamating tape if the original rubber is not available
Thanks Gilbertd.
OK, I must have failed to notice this happening when battery previously removed. I've been slow to notice this, but now I have - its really irritating. Currently the switches on the drivers seat are intermittent. I was hoping to swap these with the gems one (externally look the same).
I cant adjust seat with buttons, but nanocom can.
Will try this later, thanks again
Mine has just started going up when put into reverse, then down again in drive. Happened after an alternator change (battery disconnected).
It worked perfectly until I 'fixed' the car (familiar?).
It's passenger side, drivers side has a broken clip (link for replacement in Gilbert's post - thanks).
I plan to repaint the mirrors from my gems to approximately suit my thor. Then fix the original thor mirrors as spares. Other than possible wiring issues, should this be OK?
Doesn't seem worth paying for a pro paint job (very average example), nearly warm enough for rattle cans. Anyone know of a cheap shiny black that won't look too out of place on a black thor? If not, time for some matt black (back to the 80s 😀) or maybe satin black (dragging myself into the 90s).
Hi Gilbertd, any idea why NAS use a lower frequency? It was always odd that UKs 433 overlaps with the amateur radio stuff. Bristol had a 433 repeater (GB3BS) at a hospital until about 15 years ago.
The hospitals caretaker was able to temporarily disable the repeater when a car could not be unlocked.
No doubt this is due to poor performance of the cars receiver. I always suspected illegal Asian video relay stuff (watch cable in a different room) on 433. But if I remember correctly - local lowlife were using wireless doorbell buttons to block drivers from locking the cars.
Bolt wrote:
......, it would probably be easier and less expensive to have Les in Wales make you a new Key 2. Of course, if you are in the UK, the Stealership will be happy to extract a pound of flesh in exchange for a new fob!
Here in NAS land, we do not have that option......
I do have 2 keys from a previous p38. This will be a spares car until my neighbours start to moan. Maybe I could disable eka etc on the spares car? Going to depend a lot on the cost of the Welsh key.
Wow guys, that's a lot of indepth info.
Nanocom return from holiday on Monday. Hopefully I will have codes for it by the end of next week.
In case I loose the remaining key, I had a 'surfers' key cut from a photo. Works well (needs eka).
Once I am able to connect nanocom to enter eka easily, I will look at getting a new remote key. Mabe from Wales, maybe main dealer. I'm not hung up on genuine, so will probably go for Wales...
The key I had cut from a photo was provided by Jim from Cheshire auto keys 07971793704 jim.mann@virgin.net. Not cheap at £15 but it fits really well and he gave me the key number.
This was cut on a silka HU109FP blank.
My BECM has someone's mobile number marker penned onto it, so won't be surprised if is/was unlocked/virginised in the past. The EKA still matches jlr data but I will look at VIN....
Many thanks.
I will desync the key once I have 2 working keys.
I plan to order one genuine key and one surf key.
The nanocom I have comes from a (rotted out) d2 td5
( I think) that means I need;
P38 thor bosch software (engine)
P38 systems software (all models, everything except engine)
Green obd cable.
I'm then expecting the nanocom to do all p38 excluding engines for diesel and gems.
Will it be able to disable the lost key2?
Sadly, key was lost very near to the cars usual resting place. An aftermarket steering lock is currently protecting against casual/opportunist thieves 😀
Many thanks Gilbrertd.
Time to order a new key from the main dealer.
I did NOT know about the wipers, will do that.
The nanocom I have is for the wrong model but I can't reregister/update it until they return from. Christmas break (8th Jan).
Hi
I've managed to lose key2 from my p38 4.6 thor.
I have a key2 from a p38 4.6 gems, can a nanocom change codes to allow me to use the key2 from my other car?
The working key1 that I have (thor) often reads "engine disabled" until I press a key button. Has new batteries- any other issue I should look at?
Hi Gilbert, sorry I haven't answered on the other forum, I've managed to lock myself out again. Not ignoring you. I will get a internet pc up and running soon, seems that Android doesn't quite cut it over there
K
Hi,
After calling around the usual suppliers, I cant locate a thor v8 throttle cable.
I can see the price at £120 though.....
I'm UK RHD. Does anyone know if the LHD is longer but compatible?
A helpful breaker has removed three for me, but they all have damage to the plastic end and the outer cover. Due to the damage in outer cover, the bowden cable is corroded/damaged so the cable snags when starting from slack (Jerky departure).
The broken plastic end may also be part of the snagging problem.
I'm used to having cables made/repaired, but the plastic spacer (pedal end) is not a common part the cable makers keep.
The cable spacer (pedal end) could be 3d printed.
Obviously I'm not the first person to need a throttle cable, or to be intimidated by a £120 price tag (I could buy a pair of gear cables for a Chinese car for less than that).
Before I start some over-complicated measuring/designing/printing - how far has anyone else got?
Many thanks
Many thanks Aragorn. I didn't buy that car in the end.
Came close, but couldn't quite justify the price (in my head). Made an offer but seller felt he was better off keeping the car and selling in a year or two.
Of course, the seller may be right and he may have genuinely been offering me "an absolute bargain"
Hi pierre3. I've been lucky and never lost more than a little, excluding a hose failure that I mistook for a water pump leak:)
Hi Gilbertd, maybe my leaks were caused by cooling the hot matrix with the cabin fans? I think my old polo has a valve in the matrix feed - cant think of others I have seen in person.