Thanks Gilbertd. Agreed, we want the orings to move with expansion/contraction. A solid (expoy like) seal will fail sooner than nothing.
If you've had plenty of success with LR seals, I will use those.
I'm not going to try, but it would be interesting to see softer silicone orings inplace of the nitrile ones. I suspect silicone orings were rarely selected in those days. I think of nitrile orings as hard - great to grease and use to waterproof rotating switch shafts etc.
Cars etc from late 90s on, I think silicone orings and gaskets (thermostat covers etc) are common (softer, better temperature range, more forgiving providing there is very little movement)
Ordering LR today, wish me and my battered knuckles luck 😀
Thanks madas.
I can see a few genuine orings around £12 a pair.
If these are 10 or 20 years old, wouldn't it be better to use recently made ones (providing I use good quality)?
What's the reason for rejecting silicone? Is it because of diy abominations that you've had to unpick, or is there an engineering problem (other than getting silicone in the cooling system)?
I've pulled silicone blobs from oil ways on small engines I've bought, it is saddening. And nothing is as ugly as big pile of silicone sticking out both sides of the gasket 😀.
My first thought was a little wellseal (the sticky brown trichloroethane solvent stuff). This might be a bit too sticky, almost like trying to seal it with epoxy 😀. A small amount of good quality silicone (not hylomar or bath sealent) will allow the orings to move as the assembly expands and contracts.
I'm all for fitting original gaskets with out sealent, it is what the manufacturer designed. But I'm from a jap motorcycle background. Gaskets are extremely expensive, casting gasket faces are a little rough (makes for a good seal) and it's usually very difficult to remove your expensive cover gasket in one peice (even when just fitted) unless you first coat in a thin layer of sealant (like wellseal).
Many thanks
Hi.
Hoping to change heater matrix orings on RHD.
YouTube makes it look possible.
Reading about others attempts....
One user suggesting using larger rings. Standard 22x2.5mm? Using 22x3mm instead?
One user is adding much sealant around standard rings.
Lots of cheap nitrile rings listed, but VXs ive bodged use silicone not nitrile rings (on cooling hoses). Are the LR parts nitrile or silicone?
Should I just stick to the standard rings? Am I likely to get 5+ years from standard parts?
If I do add sealant, can I use my favorite wellseal or should this be silicone? (Don't want silicone in the heater water/matrix).
Thanks again
The brush holder is a little wider at end. Bit tight in rubber seal but probably ok.
Slip ring looks good.
Regulator currently on amazon and autodoc. <£10
HC-Cargo 134761 Alternator Regulator
Voltage: 14V
Article number: 134761
EAN: 2248198963202
I have not fitted and tested this yet, but looks ok could be from a lower powered alternator? May need to use brushes from this on the original bosch part. Cross references suggest this is not suitable. Some (cargo brand) of this part number do not have a visible resistor.
My local alternator repair shop, no longer repairs alternators. Still auto electrical but now just buys in complete units. It was about 30 years ago I last bought from them.
He did find me a slip ring and a regulator - so here we go for a rebuild....
Slip ring looks great. Regulator, I'm not so sure. I might look at extracting the brushes from the new reg and installing them in my old reg. May be fit the new reg and keep the old one safe for now.
Martyuk wrote:
I did manage to find the slip rings and brushes somewhere on eBay awhile ago (I think they came from Ireland?) as they were the same as a different Bosch model.
I don't know if I still have all the information from when I did mine years ago, but I'll have a look and see if I made any notes.
Many thanks Marty. I did see some slip rings with dimensions that could be close enough. No regulator blocks at reasonable prices. Could just replace brushes but there is some corrosion to the spot welded connections - hopefully I could solder the joints.
Gilbertd wrote:
Just edited your post so the pictures show. No matter what hosting you use, as long as the file ends in .jpg, it will work.
In your case, the top picture is https://i.postimg.cc/25dMvmDM/20240401-200138.jpg, while the bottom one is https://i.postimg.cc/JzFZqB1B/20240401-195939.jpg
When typing your reply, put the cursor where you want the picture, click on the box with a picture in it (5th one along), paste the URL for the image into the pop up box that appears and click OK. That then puts the picture into the post. If you click on Preview, you can see what it will look like.
Thanks Gilbertd.
When using post image site, I must copy the "direct link". There are about six options, it's the direct link that I've used here.
Hi,
I replaced my thor alternator ERR5834 (150amp) after brushes failed. The replacement was a cheap second hand unit.
Hoping to rebuild the alternator. Bearings found easily. Slip ring and regulator block (or just brushes) only seem to be available with expensive overseas shipping and the risk of duties (when it arrives in uk).
If I want to attach photos here, what hosting site is recommended?
I will try a local alternator shop tomorrow, but last time I spoke to them - they only wanted to supply and fit their recon/exchange. The pricing was way too high for a 'diy bodger' but would be a bargain for a genuine dealer fan boy.
Slip ring has a number 1238
Regulator block 1 197 311 549
Will update after speaking to local rewind shop, but its looking like I need to buy a refurb unit.
I have a broken cable from a thor, am going to see if I can get one made.
Maybe you're right Harv, it looks like metal could be used instead of plastic for the firewall tube, perhaps wrap in amalgamating tape if the original rubber is not available
Thanks Gilbertd.
OK, I must have failed to notice this happening when battery previously removed. I've been slow to notice this, but now I have - its really irritating. Currently the switches on the drivers seat are intermittent. I was hoping to swap these with the gems one (externally look the same).
I cant adjust seat with buttons, but nanocom can.
Will try this later, thanks again
Mine has just started going up when put into reverse, then down again in drive. Happened after an alternator change (battery disconnected).
It worked perfectly until I 'fixed' the car (familiar?).
It's passenger side, drivers side has a broken clip (link for replacement in Gilbert's post - thanks).
I plan to repaint the mirrors from my gems to approximately suit my thor. Then fix the original thor mirrors as spares. Other than possible wiring issues, should this be OK?
Doesn't seem worth paying for a pro paint job (very average example), nearly warm enough for rattle cans. Anyone know of a cheap shiny black that won't look too out of place on a black thor? If not, time for some matt black (back to the 80s 😀) or maybe satin black (dragging myself into the 90s).
Hi Gilbertd, any idea why NAS use a lower frequency? It was always odd that UKs 433 overlaps with the amateur radio stuff. Bristol had a 433 repeater (GB3BS) at a hospital until about 15 years ago.
The hospitals caretaker was able to temporarily disable the repeater when a car could not be unlocked.
No doubt this is due to poor performance of the cars receiver. I always suspected illegal Asian video relay stuff (watch cable in a different room) on 433. But if I remember correctly - local lowlife were using wireless doorbell buttons to block drivers from locking the cars.
Bolt wrote:
......, it would probably be easier and less expensive to have Les in Wales make you a new Key 2. Of course, if you are in the UK, the Stealership will be happy to extract a pound of flesh in exchange for a new fob!
Here in NAS land, we do not have that option......
I do have 2 keys from a previous p38. This will be a spares car until my neighbours start to moan. Maybe I could disable eka etc on the spares car? Going to depend a lot on the cost of the Welsh key.
Wow guys, that's a lot of indepth info.
Nanocom return from holiday on Monday. Hopefully I will have codes for it by the end of next week.
In case I loose the remaining key, I had a 'surfers' key cut from a photo. Works well (needs eka).
Once I am able to connect nanocom to enter eka easily, I will look at getting a new remote key. Mabe from Wales, maybe main dealer. I'm not hung up on genuine, so will probably go for Wales...
The key I had cut from a photo was provided by Jim from Cheshire auto keys 07971793704 jim.mann@virgin.net. Not cheap at £15 but it fits really well and he gave me the key number.
This was cut on a silka HU109FP blank.
My BECM has someone's mobile number marker penned onto it, so won't be surprised if is/was unlocked/virginised in the past. The EKA still matches jlr data but I will look at VIN....
Many thanks.
I will desync the key once I have 2 working keys.
I plan to order one genuine key and one surf key.
The nanocom I have comes from a (rotted out) d2 td5
( I think) that means I need;
P38 thor bosch software (engine)
P38 systems software (all models, everything except engine)
Green obd cable.
I'm then expecting the nanocom to do all p38 excluding engines for diesel and gems.
Will it be able to disable the lost key2?
Sadly, key was lost very near to the cars usual resting place. An aftermarket steering lock is currently protecting against casual/opportunist thieves 😀
Many thanks Gilbrertd.
Time to order a new key from the main dealer.
I did NOT know about the wipers, will do that.
The nanocom I have is for the wrong model but I can't reregister/update it until they return from. Christmas break (8th Jan).
Hi
I've managed to lose key2 from my p38 4.6 thor.
I have a key2 from a p38 4.6 gems, can a nanocom change codes to allow me to use the key2 from my other car?
The working key1 that I have (thor) often reads "engine disabled" until I press a key button. Has new batteries- any other issue I should look at?
Hi Gilbert, sorry I haven't answered on the other forum, I've managed to lock myself out again. Not ignoring you. I will get a internet pc up and running soon, seems that Android doesn't quite cut it over there
K