A recharged accumulator is on its way.
Reading RAVE, I can see the guide for bleeding brakes.

Reading another forum (a long time ago) I think it talked about new acc being prefilled with brakefluid??

The one sent away for recharging was dry. There was a tiny amount of fluid in the hole that i unthreaded the acc from.

Am I missing something in RAVE?
Should the acc be full of air below the diaphragm? (Nitrogen above the diaphragm when fitted).
RAVE warns about catching fluid in a rag when removing acc.

Compressing the air under the diaphragm sounds OK but what stops brake fluid bouncing up displacing air into the pump? (not that I offroad it).

The scrap car I removed the acc from braked OK with the dry acc. That car managed two brake pedal pushes before the noisey pump ran. Current car, brake pump runs as soon as you touch pedal (this pump is very quiet, hard to hear in car).

Many thanks

Hi.
My 120k 2001 4.6 gearbox sometimes is slow to engage first gear when the car is taken from park to drive. It can be 4 or 5 seconds.

I have never had this problem from park to reverse (but the problem could be there, it doesn't happen every time).

The fault occurs both when the car is just started AND when it has been idling for a few minutes.

Once the problem has occurred, it won't happen again the same day.

When it engages drive (after the faulty pause), it makes a single knock noise. Usually, it engages silently.

When working, it works well (very smooth).

The only other issue is very rare. It displays "gearbox overheat" but only in really cold weather and only within 3 minutes of starting the car for the first time (useally, before I pull away).

I'm guessing the best diagnostic route would be to change the oil and filter first? Nothing useful for me to do with the Nanocom?

Many thanks again all.

Hi.
Hoping to change heater matrix orings on RHD.
YouTube makes it look possible.

Reading about others attempts....
One user suggesting using larger rings. Standard 22x2.5mm? Using 22x3mm instead?

One user is adding much sealant around standard rings.

Lots of cheap nitrile rings listed, but VXs ive bodged use silicone not nitrile rings (on cooling hoses). Are the LR parts nitrile or silicone?

Should I just stick to the standard rings? Am I likely to get 5+ years from standard parts?

If I do add sealant, can I use my favorite wellseal or should this be silicone? (Don't want silicone in the heater water/matrix).

Thanks again

Hi

I've managed to lose key2 from my p38 4.6 thor.

I have a key2 from a p38 4.6 gems, can a nanocom change codes to allow me to use the key2 from my other car?

The working key1 that I have (thor) often reads "engine disabled" until I press a key button. Has new batteries- any other issue I should look at?

Hi Gilbert, sorry I haven't answered on the other forum, I've managed to lock myself out again. Not ignoring you. I will get a internet pc up and running soon, seems that Android doesn't quite cut it over there

K

Hi,

After calling around the usual suppliers, I cant locate a thor v8 throttle cable.

I can see the price at £120 though.....

I'm UK RHD. Does anyone know if the LHD is longer but compatible?

A helpful breaker has removed three for me, but they all have damage to the plastic end and the outer cover. Due to the damage in outer cover, the bowden cable is corroded/damaged so the cable snags when starting from slack (Jerky departure).

The broken plastic end may also be part of the snagging problem.

I'm used to having cables made/repaired, but the plastic spacer (pedal end) is not a common part the cable makers keep.

The cable spacer (pedal end) could be 3d printed.

Obviously I'm not the first person to need a throttle cable, or to be intimidated by a £120 price tag (I could buy a pair of gear cables for a Chinese car for less than that).

Before I start some over-complicated measuring/designing/printing - how far has anyone else got?

Many thanks

Hi, I'm still looking to buy a p38 thor.

Viewed one today, owned by a very friendly/helpful guy in Wales.

Two problems that are new to me.

Problem 1.
Car is not obviously overheating and temp gauge looks normal. Diagnostics shows silly high temperatures (150 cel?). Has new temperature sensor, same 'error' as old sensor.

I'm worried this could be rot in a ecu connector or loom.

The car has a problematic crank sensor. Runs for a few minutes, then obd shows dead crank sensor.
This is being replaced.

Problem 2.
Dash displayed "gearbox fault", vehicle then feels sluggish (as if in too high a gear). Seller feels this is related to crank sensor - but engine was running well (maybe just a single misfire 10 seconds before the gearbox error).

Many years ago, I was developing OBD systems and I cant think of a link (other than rotten loom) between these errors (gearbox, cranksensor, temp sender).

The seller feels all three issues are linked and should resolve when the crank sensor is changed.

I don't share the sellers view.

Am I being overly sceptical?

I don't expect to find a p38 without faults, but I am looking at expensive ones - hoping for something that is running well at the point of purchase.

All info greatfuly received.

Keith

Hi all, I've had the 'pleasure' of owning my first rr ('99 4.6 GEMS) for four years now. It has enough problems for me to move it on (probably scrap it).

LPG lead me to range rovers, and I would like another P38 4.6

One of the leading guys from LPG forum recommended this site and one particular member. (I have PMed that member but he is currently away).

As the search for a replacement continues, is it OK for me to post links to the current adverts and ask loose questions on this forum?

Thanks for a great site.

Keith