Can't seem to upload images here, so added the relevant section in RAVE to the rr.net thread.
EAS Randomly going to high mode usually seems to be related to intermittent Drive Pack to solenoid connections. I still have a driver pack in garage that does this. Mine also does it every time just south of J10 on the M40 (both ways), but only >> 50mph. Seems to be a particularly bouncy stretch of road. I suspect the oscillations of the car confuse the ECU which cannot keep up, and it goes into high mode with invalid faults !!
I also did the "remove & solder" thing on those footwell connectors several years ago, but still occasionally get the Invalid Fault code. This is more likely bugs in the ECU or values that Nanocom & EAS-Unlock cannot understand. It would be interesting to see if LR Testbook also reports this ?
Just use a spare valve block & driver pack assembly, and make a larger EAS housing ? You can use the existing hole pattern as template for the new housing.
You might need a louder stereo to drown out the pump noise !! BTW, what's that blue thing that looks like a motor ?
Yes, bought the gauges from eBay for about £8 each. I can then pressurise valve block on bench & monitor for slow leaks.
The control box is also useful when working on the car, where I can simply raise & lower front/rear, etc with the engine off. The large red button is for pump, plus there's a relay inside that uses the pressure switch so it does auto-shutoff as well.
Somewhat nicer than my test setup.
Also is the aftermarket stereo wired via the door amplifiers or direct to the speakers ? Incorrect wiring to the amps can also cause whine.
Yes I'm well aware of how the BECM monitors the bulbs using the MosFet outputs. I tried LED reverse bulbs a couple of years ago, but ended up putting them in wife's Freelander !! Just wondered what the actual current is on those with heatsinks, which are clearly there for the resistor rather than the LED.
What is the actual difference on current with the LEB bulbs ? My understanding is the heatsink is to cool the resistor used to fool the BECM that a regular bulb is fitted & working !! Not sure how low the bulb current can be before triggering the bulb failure detection ?
I had my dash out twice a couple of years ago. Followed this guide PaulP38 Dash Removal It was actually much easier than the guides show. First time was about 3-4 hours, but second time only took 2 hours because I replace the difficuly screws & bolts with hex heads instead of pozi.
Once the top section is out, you can undo the screws in the metal frame around the heater box, and then lift it out (with some wriggling). No need to remove steering column at all.
Mine now has Audi heater, so no more o-rings to worry about.
Pete
Hugh,
If you are able to do the strip & rebuild, I found Classic & Modern Engines in Bracknell really good. Depends where you live though !!
I have one of those angled cameras (same as #ac6) and mounted in same position. Gives a good view behind on my Android screen.
BTW, my DAB+ antenna is one of these hanging in the rear window. Works ok 95% of the time, but still thinking of doing an external one.
I used a 7" Joying android in mine. It has detachable screen, so I located the head unit under the passenger seat, and used a 100cm cable from Joying to connect the two together. Line outputs feed the door amps via 5 balancing transformers that sort out any noise & hum, plus give the required signal boost passively.
Most Chinese androids run too hot, so I also added a 12v fan using a 9V feed to keep it cooler. Mounting away from heater also helps !!