Maybe the title should be changed to "What Oil for my Boat" . . . . ???
nigelbb wrote:
I also have an occasional but persistent crackle from the speakers in the passenger door. I'm not sure whether it's the wiring, the FM transmitter, a speaker, the HK DSP amplifier or whatever that is the origin of the crackling. It would be annoying to fit the GROM bluetooth device but still have a crackle from the speakers.
The crackle from door amps either side is most likely corrosion in the front footwell connectors.
Clive603 wrote:
iPhone displays a code number that it expects the tablet to show. Which never happens. Attempting to pair willy nilly leads to both iPhone and tablet reporting being connected but the tablet stays stuck on the connection management screen instead of displaying the use CarPlay message to indicate proper pairing.
Do it the other way round. Set the Tablet into pairing mode, and then find that in the iPhone Bluetooth settings. someone on another Android Stereo forum had the same issue !!
Not sure what current the Nanocom draws in the standby state, but would be worth checking.
I would suspect intermittent power of ground to the BECM is your likely cause ? Remember power needs both 12V & Ground for any current to flow.
aah @181818 I'm guessing you are "18daleroad" on LZ ?
As I said on there, did you look on eBay ?? Also John Craddock have some of them.
I put a 7" Android stereo in the dash on one of my P38's many years back. The OS is getting old & a bit slow now, so thinking of replacing it with a modern Chinese unit. There are many 2DIN units out there which are shallow enough to not need my "remote screen solution".
No need to GROM or FM connection on either. The android uses transformers for the RCA to Harmon Kardon amps, and the Pioneer just works from speaker out to amps directly. No need for attenuators.
Maybe print the Steering Adjustment section from the RAVE Workshop Manual for them ?
(Pages 706-707 in all the RAVE versions I have checked)
You probably need to take the dust shield off ?
The ambient sensor values are in the RAVE description. Any NTC sensor with similar characteristics should work.
RAVE HEVAC Description
Note: I have found that after the HEVAC loses the sensor connection & goes to -40degC, you need to clear faults & power cycle the HEVAC for it ambient to work again.
Jack the front of the car under the axle for access. Unbolt the prop flange from the VCU output flange. Then with rear wheels on ground & gearbox in neutral, use a suitable socket (cannot remember the size) on the VCU flange & long bar to turn the VCU. It should be stiff but will turn slowly.
{edit]. Look in RAVE with the RR Classic. Section 41, page 18 shows the VCU bench test. Similar turning force should work with the VCU in the car !!
Best done with a Nanocom so you can check the modulation. It needs to be around 50% at idle.
Definitely buy the 9/16" tool. Makes the job many times easier than fiddling with sockets. 14mm does not fit properly. I tried two different 9/16" sockets, neither of which were narrow enough, so bought the tool.
Regarding the AC Request & Grant, remember these go via the large connector under the coolant header tank. Could just the a bad connection there, but worth checking the voltage at the engine ECU end as well as at the HEVAC ?
The compressor clutch TSB is a completely separate issue.
Not checked mine in ages. Will have a look in the morning if I remember.
I have used these sensors several times. RTG Automotive P38 ABS Sensor
Had one fail after a few weeks, and the seller replaced it FoC straight away. Been working fine ever since Dec 2021.
There are a few numpties on there that deserve their threads being tagged with FFrankie
Likewise, I haven't done a thing to either of my P38's. Green one is waiting for a wash & me to have a go with T-Cut on the hedge scratch down one side. The blue one is waiting on a battery via my son's mate using GSF staff discount !!
Welcome. Totally agree with the analog clock stuff above. Arrival time is always "roughly XX mins" anyway !!
I'm wondering what to ask it next ?
Makes me wonder if the Maximus threads were an early prototype version of Frankie ?
Wriggle all the cables to the fusebox. I had a problem about a year ago with the main battery feed to the fusebox. Everything would cut momentarily & come back a second or so later. The main feed was bad, plus found a few dry joints on the PCB connections to the relays.