Best to put the replacement motor in the centre position. This can be done either using a 9V battery on the motor wires, or dismantle & align the marks on the gears inside. The latter is a bit fiddly if you haven't done it before.
Manually align the flap "shaft D" roughly with the motor, and push it part way on. Then rotate the motor a bit, so it fits onto the mounting lugs & insert the screws.
I insured my project P38 last October. All the usually suspects (including other P38 insurer) wanted well over £600 which was double the previous year. Eventually found Grove & Dean and got cover for £219 which is not bad for where I live !!
If the diaphragm pulls in, then you must have also activated the little vacuum relay valve inside. Sounds like the small 4mm tubing is ok as well or the diaphragm would not pull in. Best to go through the trouble-shooting guide, as that verifies the steering buttons, the red relay & the ECU.
My green P38 has been intermittent for a while. I originally thought it was the ecu based on the trouble shooting, BUT, after trying that one & a spare in the other P38, I decided to install the later AMR5700 ECU so I could get diagnostics. Problem still exists with intermittent engage. I now suspect the little vacuum relay doesn't seal properly, so gonna find another on eBay.
My first thought is if the ETC valve is open circuit, maybe fault 3 & 4 are related to that ? Nanocom does have a habit of reporting shorts when it's actually open circuits (blend motors for example), although some of this can also be attributed to the LR ECU's.
There have been threads on various forums about people wanting to put 4 wheel TC on earlier cars, so you never know.
The ECU's look quite different. Here's my google image search.
I got a couple of sensors from RTG on eBay back in Dec 2021. One failed after about 2-3 months, but they replaced it free of charge.
I have seen that one of my P38's. In my case the fan was working fine, so I suspect it was warm air escaping the heater box & getting onto the aspirator thermistor. Another idea I had was maybe the fan motor getting a little warm ??
As I had the heater out a month ago to sort the split matrix & distribution flaps, I re-sealed the heater box properly. Car now nice & warm !!
BTW, "Prog" mode simply moves the hot-cold flaps to full hot position, so the aspirator is ignored in that mode.
Green P38 is definitely high-line. Not sure about Blue one, but the only thing lacking are electric memory seats. Everything else is in it.
Marty,
Was completly snowed under with work & stuff at my Dad's house today. Any chance I can collect the diff from you on Friday about lunchtime ?
Pete
I could also be interested in spare fusebox & BECM Power board for my P38's. They are both GEMS & ok at moment, but you never know !!
There's "Unlock EAS" buttons on all the tabs (except the Heights one). All of them send the same 0x7D00 sequence to clear the faults (although I'm trying it offline at the moment).
If you have the V2 Free version from RSW, then the "Read Faults" button does what it says !! The "UnlockEAS" button is for clearing faults.
Pete
Martyuk wrote:
Pete12345 wrote:
Marty,
Is it still worth me coming up there tomorrow, or will next week work better ? I can probably only do 2-3 hours either way.Pete
Hi Pete,
Probably next week would be better when Richard has been over aswell, so we can get the rear axle out (I have found it and it's up the back of the workshop) behind some other stuff).
I've been up today and put out a load of rat poison, and sprayed disinfectant everywhere else, so going to give that a few days to settle in. I also loaded up a pile of random old scrap metal parts in the back of my RR which I'll take to the scrap metal place tomorrow hopefully.
I think I will try to continue just tidying up and sweeping up all the crap around the floor over Easter, and then next week it should be in a better state (hopefully) to be able to get some things out.
What day(s) work best for you next week?
Cheers,
Marty
Next week is fine. Not sure what day yet, but will let you know over the weekend.
Thanks,
Pete
Marty,
Is it still worth me coming up there tomorrow, or will next week work better ? I can probably only do 2-3 hours either way.
Pete
Marty,
I'm gonna be in Ferndown Mon 25th to Wed 27th. Could divert to your lockup on my way home Thurs if that works ? Weds PM might be a challenge but depends if the carpet fitters have finished thier 2-day job.
Gilbert,
Happy to split if that helps you (assuming the shafts come out easily !! ).
Pete
Martyuk wrote:
Pete12345 wrote:
Marty, I could be interested in a diff. Finally got my project 1998 on the road back in November, but getting some drivetrain whine. I suspect the rear diff, but not sure yet.
I'm likely to be travelling from Langley to Ferndown various times in March & April, so a swing by Marlborough for half a day would be doable.
Pete
Hi Pete,
No worries - if it's the rear one, then it comes free with a rear axle.... haha.I might be able to split it out, but don't have all the tools there that I used to, as I shipped most of my things back already, I think I have basic tools in the back of my RR there and a few in the garage at home still.
I would be happy to do a deal on either just diff or the axle, even though I only need a spare diff. Aren't the diffs the same front & rear on P39 ?
FYI, My old project P38 is finally on the road, but getting drivetrain whine. My plan was to have a refurbed diff ready to swap, & then refurb the one I take out (eventually doing them all in both cars).
Marty, I could be interested in a diff. Finally got my project 1998 on the road back in November, but getting some drivetrain whine. I suspect the rear diff, but not sure yet.
I'm likely to be travelling from Langley to Ferndown various times in March & April, so a swing by Marlborough for half a day would be doable.
Pete
The rear of an 8mm drill is god for seating the o-rings. Also check the airlines for scratches as these can be leak points..
40cm one from Amazon ? Best check the inside wheel measurements first !!
Chrisp38 wrote:
I've seen a post somewhere where someone has found a stainless steel pie dish from ikea (iirc) that was near as dammit identical.
Bit of cutting, bit of drilling and was perfect.
I found that out after I had sand blasted mine and cut out the rot/welded in new sections. The brace is easy to knock up, fitted it all in with ss button head bolts.
Possibly landyzone? For the ikea dish mod?
Nanocom isn't great for the Lambda sensor voltages, simple because it's a bit slow, but you should still see the voltages changing. The other values can be read ok though.
I use a generic bluetooth diagnostic dongle when I need to check the O2 sensors, simply because I can view the flip-flop on my iPhone !!