I'm not obsessed with customising either of mine. The only mods are replacement stereo (1 wasn't working, and the other was missing). Maintenance has been varied from one complete engine rebuild to sorting the EAS properly on both plus wheel bearings, steering joins, prop spiders,etc.

Would have thought most MOT places are closed on Boxing Day ??

Thorst wrote:

JimAHH wrote:

Need another bank holiday next week really..

One every week would be nice.

th.

Not when you're self-employed & paid by the day !! I'm down 2 days money this month & 2 last month.

I have done one without cutting anything. With glovebox out, undo any screws holding the ducting that obscures the motor. Then there's just enough room to move the duct & access the two motor screws.

No idea. Unfortunately it could be yet another fine car that ended up in the scrppers.

I did see a dark blue P38 on the M3 near Winchester in Feb 2024 with reg "P38HSE" that is still MOT'd. I was doing 70 on the cruise when it whizzed past me.

I use only two valves & tees. That way you can pump both rears up together, and then same for the L&R fronts. Easier to get it level.

Is thta an alloy sump on a GEMS engine, or bits of the block blown out ?? If you have the space & tools, it's not that hard to either get the engine out, or just drop the sump & inspect before deciding.

There's usually plenty of decent engines out there from scrappers. You probably only need the bottom half.

Don't throw them away. I could certainly do with the motor & bearings sections. I have one with fractured magnets that need sorting (it fell off the bench).

I'm 1/2 mile from J5 on the M4 if you're passing this way.

There's no light to show it engaged. Only the light on the CC on-off switch.

Usually it's a vacuum leak somewhere, i.e.

1. Either end of the pipe between brake pedal & the tee.
2. Inside the pump housing. There's smaller 4mm pipes between the motor & the vacuum relay.
3. The vacuum relay itself not sealing.
4. Leaking or badly adjusted brake switch

Best option is to go through the test procedure in RAVE. Also on the later ECU, you can check it using Nanocom.

Not sure if others noticed, but there were issues with several DAB multiplexes over the last two weeks across many areas in the UK. It was mainly the National channels. Arquiva had screwed up the service name data so the signals were not ETSI compliant. Tuners were missing about 40-60 channels depending on where people were located. Wierdly it only impacted USB DAB receivers. My Pioneer DEH-S720 worked ok.

Myself & several others on the DAB-Z thread on xda-developers emailed Arquiva, and eventually they fixed it yesterday morning.

Can't tell from the outside !! I would run them using a 12V battery first & see what they are like. Then open up & inspect.

where did you find the 20dB DAB amp ?? I've been searching for a 12V one.

I suspect the key points here are changing the injectors & oil pickup cleaing and o-ring probably helped a lot.

Cylinder-4 does seems a bit low on compression ? Are the spark plugs all same colour around the tips ?

I tried various screen antennas with little success. Even outside the heated area, I suspect the glass tint is not helping.

Now both my P38's have magnetic roof antennas which work really well. Eightwood DAB Antenna

w4ftr wrote:

romanrob wrote:

W4, where are you based? Chiswick? Put the nano on it before you spend more money on it. if you're SW London I can help

Thanks romanrob - I'm actually in Northamptonshire, the username is my reg plate rather than postcode. Mine is a Thor, so assuming a GEMS Nanocom wouldn't be much use, or is it simply that it works for everything else apart from the engine module?

As a bit of a plot twist, the seller of the green dot receiver has received it back, plugged it into his, and it worked instantly.

Really odd.

Nanocom license only affect engine ECU type. All other ECU's work with any Nanocom, so you can sort the BECM settings..

But does the RW wire show a real short to ground, or just the combined parallel resistance of the bulbs in the clock, fascia, switches, instrument pack and radio ? . . . . . i.e. zero ohms or a bit more ?

Rave shows the splices S209 & S210 in the diagrams but un-helpfully not where they are located

Which version did you print ?? Even the "One File PDF" for P38 is >> 5000 pages !!

Search for the "RAVE All Models" version. Unzip the file, and open "rave-lr.pdf" instead of the exe file.

Works on my Win & Mac-OSX laptops. I guess it will work on Linux as well.

In case it helps someone in future . . . . (not me cos I will not buy a diseasel.)

Set new ECU to robust mode:
This function only works on brand new EDC ECUs which
are delivered from the factory in a non-configured mode (factory mode), before they
can be used on a vehicle they have to be configured to either require a mobilization
code before they will work (robust), or to work regardless of any other factor (nonrobust).
This function sets a brand new EDC ECU to robust mode. It should be noted that
this function is only able to be performed once due to a restriction within the design of
the EDC ECU itself. It is therefore important that the correct choice is made.

· Set new ECU to non-robust mode:
This function only works on brand new EDC ECUs
which are delivered from the factory in a non-configured mode (factory mode), before
they can be used on a vehicle they have to be configured to either require a
mobilization code before they will work (robust), or to work regardless of any other
factor (non-robust). This function sets a brand new EDC ECU to robust mode. It should
be noted that this function is only able to be performed once due to a restriction within
the design of the EDC ECU itself. It is therefore important that the correct choice is
made.

Harv wrote:

Unless the axle housing is bent, .

Can't see how it can bend !! Isn't it a casting ?

I have also had guys with no idea how to setup a steering box system, or why he couldn't adjust one end of the track rod !! Luckily I found another place nearby with an older & wiser alignment guy.