20w50 might help or might not.
It depends where the tapping is coming from. Yes it could be the camshaft or tappets worn, but also blocked oilways, worn rockers, etc. If it started 28k miles after the rebuild, it raises some questions about whether they changed the camshaft, etc ? Could also be low oil pressure due to worn oil pump, or weak pressure relief spring ? Do you have paperwork listing what was replaced during the rebuild ?
After I rebuilt my 4.0 it has been a bit noisy at start-up for the 3000miles since the rebuild, but the noise stops after a few mins once the oil gets around the engine.
You could take the upper & lower manifolds off, and then be able to inspect the camshaft, without dismantling any further ? For the tappets, you would need to unbolt the rocker shaft & then take each one out to check it.
Found similar on my bench test when the dummy ambient sensor was not connected. Even after connecting, the HEVAC needed faults clearing & power cycle to get the temp to update. According to RAVE later HEVAC show an initial reading on power up, but don't update until the vehicle reaches 15mph.
Unless someone disassembles the firmware, we will probably never know how the HECAV combines all the inputs to decide where to adjust the flaps !!
Don't think it matters that much. RAVE just says this:
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (X311)
This is a resistive sensor, i.e. the change in
resistance is related to change in air temperature.
The signal from the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
(X311) is used to retard the ignition timing if the air
temperature rises above 55 C.
The old Morgan "GEMS by Poole" doc I have says this:
In the event of failure the Intake Air Temperature will be used at start, and then ramped
to the nominal operating temperature over some time. The failure “may not be evident
to the driver” but there may be a hot restart problem. The fault will illuminate the MIL
light on NAS vehicles.
Definitely have a good look under the sill plate. There's been several folks had issues with those looms over the years.
Luckily mine are ok (or seem to be), but I did find an old Motorola tracking system under the carpet & underlay after a heater core disaster many years back.
First step is probably to check all the other fuses. Then clean the diagnostic port as they often get water down there from the scuttle & cabin filters..
It does also depend on the firmware & Carplay app version in the android unit. Most of the Chinese tablets & Head Units use an app called Zlink, but there are different versions with variable success rate.
You might need to contact the supplier, and see if there's a firmware update for it ? Otherwise, if it doesn't work as advertised, then you're entitled to a refund.
What processor & firmware version is it ? Look in the Android system menus for things like Firmware Name, MCU (drives all the custom hardware in it), Model Number & CPU type. Then search for the same model on XDA Forums. Most likely someone will have the same unit & issues, and maybe the solution !!
Maybe the title should be changed to "What Oil for my Boat" . . . . ???
nigelbb wrote:
I also have an occasional but persistent crackle from the speakers in the passenger door. I'm not sure whether it's the wiring, the FM transmitter, a speaker, the HK DSP amplifier or whatever that is the origin of the crackling. It would be annoying to fit the GROM bluetooth device but still have a crackle from the speakers.
The crackle from door amps either side is most likely corrosion in the front footwell connectors.
Clive603 wrote:
iPhone displays a code number that it expects the tablet to show. Which never happens. Attempting to pair willy nilly leads to both iPhone and tablet reporting being connected but the tablet stays stuck on the connection management screen instead of displaying the use CarPlay message to indicate proper pairing.
Do it the other way round. Set the Tablet into pairing mode, and then find that in the iPhone Bluetooth settings. someone on another Android Stereo forum had the same issue !!
Not sure what current the Nanocom draws in the standby state, but would be worth checking.
I would suspect intermittent power of ground to the BECM is your likely cause ? Remember power needs both 12V & Ground for any current to flow.
aah @181818 I'm guessing you are "18daleroad" on LZ ?
As I said on there, did you look on eBay ?? Also John Craddock have some of them.
I put a 7" Android stereo in the dash on one of my P38's many years back. The OS is getting old & a bit slow now, so thinking of replacing it with a modern Chinese unit. There are many 2DIN units out there which are shallow enough to not need my "remote screen solution".
No need to GROM or FM connection on either. The android uses transformers for the RCA to Harmon Kardon amps, and the Pioneer just works from speaker out to amps directly. No need for attenuators.
Maybe print the Steering Adjustment section from the RAVE Workshop Manual for them ?
(Pages 706-707 in all the RAVE versions I have checked)
You probably need to take the dust shield off ?
The ambient sensor values are in the RAVE description. Any NTC sensor with similar characteristics should work.
RAVE HEVAC Description
Note: I have found that after the HEVAC loses the sensor connection & goes to -40degC, you need to clear faults & power cycle the HEVAC for it ambient to work again.
Jack the front of the car under the axle for access. Unbolt the prop flange from the VCU output flange. Then with rear wheels on ground & gearbox in neutral, use a suitable socket (cannot remember the size) on the VCU flange & long bar to turn the VCU. It should be stiff but will turn slowly.
{edit]. Look in RAVE with the RR Classic. Section 41, page 18 shows the VCU bench test. Similar turning force should work with the VCU in the car !!
Best done with a Nanocom so you can check the modulation. It needs to be around 50% at idle.
Definitely buy the 9/16" tool. Makes the job many times easier than fiddling with sockets. 14mm does not fit properly. I tried two different 9/16" sockets, neither of which were narrow enough, so bought the tool.
Regarding the AC Request & Grant, remember these go via the large connector under the coolant header tank. Could just the a bad connection there, but worth checking the voltage at the engine ECU end as well as at the HEVAC ?
The compressor clutch TSB is a completely separate issue.
Not checked mine in ages. Will have a look in the morning if I remember.
I have used these sensors several times. RTG Automotive P38 ABS Sensor
Had one fail after a few weeks, and the seller replaced it FoC straight away. Been working fine ever since Dec 2021.