I would start by unplugging HEVAC & ABS with the K still connected to BECM & GEMS. Then see if comms works & BECM sleeps correctly. You only have 4 devices using the K-Line so try all the combos.

Once you have made a simple OBD loom, you can also connect to each ECU separately to test each one. That will require two K-line wires for the BECM, HEVAC & ABS.

The connection to GEMS also goes via C106 underneath the coolant header tank.

Those connectors often have corrosion on the copper wires where they go inside the contact crimps. No amount of cleaning will fix it & you cannot see the corrosion without de-pinning the contacts from the housing.

Unless you plan to take the body off one day, the best answer is to cut, solder & heat shrink each wire (making sure the colours match each side).

Always point out the label on the slam panel, plus take a copy of the Lubricants & Fluids Capacities page from the Workshop manual.

Beware Halfords. My daughter went there last year, and they just used top-up cans. Most branches do not have proper machines anymore, and staff are untrained.

I contacted Halfrauds head office & complained & pointed out the law about filling a leaking system. Got a full refund.

Were the replacement coil packs new or used ? Either way check the primary & secondary resistance on them.

Another cause of random behaviour I have seen is caused by intermittent connections between the driver pack & the solenoids. The socket contacts inside the 12-way connector get expanded with age & hot-cold cycles, so the valve become intermittent. The ECU either reports valve stuck errors, or over-adjusts when the contacts are ok.

That said I tend to agree it's more likely height sensor issues, where the ECU thinks the car is not lowering, and keeps trying until it reaches the bump stops.

To avoid the long drives on the bumps when it happens, get a set of schrader valves & tyre pump for emergency get you home use.

If you have used Windows for a while since the serial cable worked, chances are Microsh!t over-wrote the driver.

Connect cable & uninstall whatever is in there. Then install the driver that came with the cable (ideally FTDI because windows 10 does not like the other versions. Then check the com port settings, and try again.

you can check the primary & secondary coil resistance, but that will not tell if they are breaking down inside. Primary is 0.8 ohm, secondary is 13k ohm.

I have a 4-way cig lighter socket mounted behind the HEVAC. It's wired to the main cigarette lighter power. The various power plug-ins are wired from there to my phone holder, dash-cam & other bits.

Original lighter socket remains (and has the lighter in it) - most recent use was topping up one tyre away from home because I forgot to do it before the journey.

There's a used set here RANGE ROVER P38 1994-02 Full Set Of 5x Door Seals

Ideally the left-right targets for each height setting should be within 2 bits of each other. Otherwise the front tends to dance when you stop at traffic lights !! Front-Rear doesn't need to match, but they should be sensible for each height so the car is level when empty of people & luggage with doors closed.

The self-levelling adjusts based on sensor readings, not the actual height, so it does depend on what's programmed. Are the left-right values in the ECU Targets the same ?

The wake-up triggers are in the EAS System Info ducument.

DOOR OPEN “WAKE-UP”The system “wakes up” as soon as any door is opened. After all doors are closed, system
leveling could take place if any height sensors actual value differs from its target value by
more than ± 2 bits. The target value is determined by the lowest sensor input. If all the doors
are then closed, the delay relay will time out in twenty seconds. Height changes are inhibited
when any door (or tailgate on NRR) is open, up to a speed of 35 mph.

ENGINE RUNNING “WAKE-UP”
When the ignition key is turned to position II, the ECU wakes up again and another leveling
could be required. On New Range Rover all warning lights are illuminated to indicate power
without ECU activity, on Classic the lights illuminate at engine start. The system becomes
active when the engine is started and the ECU receives an rpm signal greater than 500 rpm.
The ECU will close the compressor relay and attempt to pressurize the reservoir. This
attempt will take place if the pressure switch is open, the thermal switch is closed and the
system is not trying to exhaust any air. Remember that air cannot enter and leave the
system at the same time.

In addition to the above, I have one with a dodgy pressure switch. The pump would run after a light tap on the switch. Next time it happens, with the engine running tap the relay & pressure switch with a screwdriver handle & see if it runs ?

The switches are unobtainable, so I took a chance on a complete pump & switch assembly from eBay & swapped the switch over. Been working fine ever since.

Tape will improve it, but only for a while !! Guess how I know ?

There are some on eBay, but £29 plus postage for 11 clips ?

One problem with external image hosting is when reading older posts where the contributors have deleted old pics to save storage costs. Another issue is image hosting sites that block certain countries due to local laws. The threads often become useless.

Best solution is hosting on the forum site & requesting member to contribute to costs.

Could be an intermittent pressure switch, failing relay or bad contacts in fusebox. The connectios from the pressure switch to BECM & ABS ECU are signals to them so they know the position of the switch. There's also some splices in the loom that can affect the pressure switch ground.

By the sound of it, diagnostics will not help as much as a good multi-meter & checking the wiring, etc.

RAVE Says:

ABS Hydraulic Pump (M102)
The hydraulic boost for the system is provided by the
ABS Hydraulic Pump (M102), which is controlled by
the ABS Pump Relay (K102) and the ABS Pressure
Switch Unit (Z104).
The Pressure Switch unit incorporates three
electro– mechanical switches. The first operates the
pump, two more illuminate the low pressure
condition and signal that ABS and ETC functions
should be curtailed. The Hydraulic Pump includes a
hydraulic accumulator and non–return valve, as well
as a pressure relief valve to protect the system.
When low pressure occurs in the brake system, a
switch in the pressure switch unit closes to ground
the coil of the pump relay. The pump relay now
energizes and applies battery voltage from the fuse
to the hydraulic pump through the closed relay
contacts. The hydraulic pump runs to increase
pressure in the hydraulic accumulator. When
sufficient pressure is developed in the system, the
pressure switch opens to de–energize the pump
relay and to turn off the hydraulic pump.

KCR wrote:

Bolt wrote:

Possibly the two ugliest words in the P38 lexicon:
Ball Joints.
Finally got psyched up enough to tackle these on Bolt.
Middling decent hand tools loaned by the local O'Reilly's auto parts shop.
Actually, the job was not as bad as I thought it would be.
4 hours for the first set an a bit over 2 for the second ones.
I would like to know what the proper press cup looks like for the bottom one?
Had to use a cut off wheel on the grinder to cut off the flange on the bottom of the lower to allow it to be
pressed out.
The first set only lasted 215k miles! (How many sets have you been through Gilbert?)
Glad I do all my own work as I imagine the current crop of ham fisted shop apes could really screw up the job!
With any kind of luck I will not have to do them

Sheet of the genuine LR Tool I luckily got, as well as the alignment tool for the

There's a few sites that list the tool & have pictures. Remover/Installer Knuckle Ball Joints LRT54008
Price does seem to vary a lot. I used a combo of bits from two generic 4x4 joint tool kits.

KCR wrote:

Bolt wrote:

Possibly the two ugliest words in the P38 lexicon:
Ball Joints.
Finally got psyched up enough to tackle these on Bolt.
Middling decent hand tools loaned by the local O'Reilly's auto parts shop.
Actually, the job was not as bad as I thought it would be.
4 hours for the first set an a bit over 2 for the second ones.
I would like to know what the proper press cup looks like for the bottom one?
Had to use a cut off wheel on the grinder to cut off the flange on the bottom of the lower to allow it to be
pressed out.
The first set only lasted 215k miles! (How many sets have you been through Gilbert?)
Glad I do all my own work as I imagine the current crop of ham fisted shop apes could really screw up the job!
With any kind of luck I will not have to do them

Sheet of the genuine LR Tool I luckily got, as well as the alignment tool for the

There's a few sites that list the tool & have pictures. Remover/Installer Knuckle Ball Joints LRT54008

Gilbertd wrote:

You don't need 3 switches, only 2. In fact, you don't need 2 switches, just 1 switch and 1 pushbutton. The keyswitch simply grounds one wire (the Blue/Red) whenever the key is turned in the lock, irrespective of which way it is turned. The CDL switch (on the Green/Red wire) is grounded when the door is unlocked and open when the door is locked. This is the reason the other doors will lock if the driver's door latch is unplugged, the ground is removed from the CDL switch wire.

You can either connect at the door outstation or at the door latch connector.

So you need to connect to the Green/Red wire, the Blue/Red wire and the Black wire (the ground). Connect your switch between the Green/Red wire and ground and your pushbutton between the Blue/Red wire and ground. The BeCM detects which way the key has been turned by looking at whether the CDL switch wire has a ground on it or not.

So to enter the EKA, you need your switch to be open, signifying locked, and press the pushbutton 4 times to simulate the 4 turns to lock. Then to enter your first digit, you move the switch to the unlocked position (switch closed so the wire is grounded) and press the pushbutton the correct number of times. For the second digit, which would be turns to lock, you move your switch to the locked position (switch open) and press the pushbutton the correct number of times and so on.

When entering the EKA the door must be closed, which is detected on the Purple/White wire (the door ajar switch), but I am fairly sure a ground is only on that when the door is open so that can be left alone.

Yes if this work-around is done at the latch & the Purple/White is open circuit, the BECM will assume the door is closed !! So you can work on it with the door open :-)