I was having AC leak issues on one of mine a few year back. As the system was completely empty, no dye in it & needed a new dryer, I used compressed air to do the test. Filled it to about 8bar, and then used soapy water. Found the leak pretty quick on the condenser. Swapped that & the dryer, and whe nre-gassing asked them to do the vacuum for extra time to be sure !! Yes Gilbert, I know it's wrong !!
Worked fine for 2-3 years, and then got another leak. got it checked & regassed, but was low again after about 4-6 weeks. No signs of leaks or dye anywhere this time, but noticed the compressor getting noisy behind the clutch. Took clutch off & hey-ho there was the leak. Not enough for the dye to get all over the compressor, but enough to lose the gas.
My other P38 still has vacuum on it after 2-3 months so will be re-gassing that soon.
In case anyone doesn't know, the way Nanocom & EAS Unlock both connect to the ECU for diagnostics, is by toggling the timer relay (via pin-1 on the diag connector). This causes the EAS ECU to reset (hence the beeps), and Nanocom or EASunlock sends the diagnostic sequence. Sending the sequence without power cycling the ECU does not connect - hence why 4-pin relay blocks diag connections.
In the "EAS - System Information Document" it lists the possible fault messages according to LR.
SUMMARY OF AVAILABLE FAULT MESSAGES
FRONT LEFT SENSOR OUT OF RANGE
FRONT RIGHT SENSOR OUT OF RANGE
REAR LEFT SENSOR OUT OF RANGE
REAR RIGHT SENSOR OUT OF RANGE
ENGINE SPEED VEHICLE SPEED
PRESSURE SWITCH STUCK ON
PRESSURE SWITCH STUCK OFF
COMPRESSOR FAILURE
CORRUPT SENSOR DATA (never seen this on my Nanocom)
CANNOT LOWER FRONT RIGHT
CANNOT LOWER FRONT LEFT
CANNOT LOWER REAR LEFT
CANNOT LOWER REAR RIGHT
FRONT RIGHT VALVE STUCK OPEN
FRONT LEFT VALVE STUCK OPEN
REAR RIGHT VALVE STUCK OPEN
REAR LEFT VALVE STUCK OPEN
EXHAUST VALVE STUCK OPEN
INLET VALVE STUCK OPEN
FRONT RIGHT VALVE STUCK CLOSED
FRONT LEFT VALVE STUCK CLOSED
REAR RIGHT VALVE STUCK CLOSED
REAR LEFT VALVE STUCK CLOSED
EXHAUST VALVE STUCK CLOSED
INLET VALVE STUCK CLOSED
ECU SELF DIAGNOSTIC LIMITATIONS
The ECU may seem to misdiagnose a problem. This is due to the limited number of inputs
on which to base decisions. Because of the similarity of symptoms, multiple faults may be
registered where only one is actually present. The following is a summary of alternative
interpretations of a registered fault message:
• Height sensor above or below has no alternatives.
• Engine speed has no alternatives.
• Road speed has no alternatives.
• Front valve stuck open has no alternatives.
• Rear valve stuck open has no alternatives.
• Inlet valve stuck open has no alternatives.
• Pressure switch on may be confused with inlet valve stuck closed or rear valve stuck
closed.
• Pressure switch stuck off may be confused with compressor failure.
• Compressor failure may be confused with inlet valve stuck closed, exhaust valve
stuck open.
• Front valve stuck closed may be confused with inlet valve stuck closed or exhaust
valve stuck closed
Rear valve stuck closed may be confused with inlet valve stuck closed or exhaust
valve stuck closed.
• Exhaust valve stuck closed may be confused with front valve stuck closed or rear
valve stuck closed.
Probably a glitch in the data stream, rather than the ECU reporting it.
They will not contact you. You should have a login on their main page, which will give access to SW updates, and your license codes.
Latest version is 1.37 and has a windows installer. Simply run that & then plug in the Nanocom. It will guide you through the process, but do read the instructions just in case !!
When you press the switch to drop or raise the car, so you see the flashing target LED ? If not then suspect the footwell connectors.
If the LEDS do flash, then the driver pack to solenoid connection (underneath valve block) is probably bad, or the driver pack capacitors are failing.
Depends when you bought it. I'v had 4 or 5 new versions on mine.
Has the car always done this since you bought it ? If so, I would check the wire colours in the connectors in case somebody has been messing with them.
When checking with 12V on C152, apart from clicking how are you checking the correct valve opens ? Easiest way is to unscrew the solenoid tops, but leave them in place. Then when applying 12V, lift the solenoid off & check it was that one operating.
With the Inlet & Exhaust open at same time it will dump tank air out the exhaust, unless the diaphragm is on. As soon as the pump kicks in, it should close the diaphragm preventing air escaping even with both In & Ex open.
One other thing that causes random extended height while driving, is intermittent connections on the driver pack connector. Changing driver packs doesn't help, because the issue is loose socket contacts. The fix is to carefully remove each socket contact (one at a time), and gently squeeze them to get a better connection on the pins.
The reason for extended height, is because the dumb ECU fails to see height changes when opening valves, and initially assumes the chassis is grounded. Mine does this, but as long as I spot the flashing height switch in time & press down it's ok. If I miss the flashing, it will go over extended, and go into soft-fault mode. Ignition off-on will resolve it . . . .BUT . . . if I cannot stop & do that, it will eventually go fully faulted & require Nanocom reset.
I also bought some on eBay seller RTG Automotive. One failed after about 6 months, and the seller replace immediately for free. Such good service I bought another pair for the other P38.
ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Fits Land Rover Range (1994-2002)
Concern:
Cooling System Leaks
Defect:
There is a possibility of premature failure of the cooling system hoses and throttle body heater gasket. Expelled coolant allowed to remain on hot engine components can result in the evaporation of the water content and leave an artificially high concentration level of anti - freeze which is in extreme circumstances both corrosive and inflammable.
Remedy:
Recall affected vehicles to replace cooling system hoses / throttle body heater gasket with quality assured parts.
Both my 1998 P38's shop as having an outstanding recall, but the gov mot site doesn't show any recall number ?
On another Gov page that searches recalls by car model & year it shows cooling system issue ?.
Best to put the replacement motor in the centre position. This can be done either using a 9V battery on the motor wires, or dismantle & align the marks on the gears inside. The latter is a bit fiddly if you haven't done it before.
Manually align the flap "shaft D" roughly with the motor, and push it part way on. Then rotate the motor a bit, so it fits onto the mounting lugs & insert the screws.
I insured my project P38 last October. All the usually suspects (including other P38 insurer) wanted well over £600 which was double the previous year. Eventually found Grove & Dean and got cover for £219 which is not bad for where I live !!
If the diaphragm pulls in, then you must have also activated the little vacuum relay valve inside. Sounds like the small 4mm tubing is ok as well or the diaphragm would not pull in. Best to go through the trouble-shooting guide, as that verifies the steering buttons, the red relay & the ECU.
My green P38 has been intermittent for a while. I originally thought it was the ecu based on the trouble shooting, BUT, after trying that one & a spare in the other P38, I decided to install the later AMR5700 ECU so I could get diagnostics. Problem still exists with intermittent engage. I now suspect the little vacuum relay doesn't seal properly, so gonna find another on eBay.
My first thought is if the ETC valve is open circuit, maybe fault 3 & 4 are related to that ? Nanocom does have a habit of reporting shorts when it's actually open circuits (blend motors for example), although some of this can also be attributed to the LR ECU's.
There have been threads on various forums about people wanting to put 4 wheel TC on earlier cars, so you never know.
The ECU's look quite different. Here's my google image search.
I got a couple of sensors from RTG on eBay back in Dec 2021. One failed after about 2-3 months, but they replaced it free of charge.
I have seen that one of my P38's. In my case the fan was working fine, so I suspect it was warm air escaping the heater box & getting onto the aspirator thermistor. Another idea I had was maybe the fan motor getting a little warm ??
As I had the heater out a month ago to sort the split matrix & distribution flaps, I re-sealed the heater box properly. Car now nice & warm !!
BTW, "Prog" mode simply moves the hot-cold flaps to full hot position, so the aspirator is ignored in that mode.
Green P38 is definitely high-line. Not sure about Blue one, but the only thing lacking are electric memory seats. Everything else is in it.
Marty,
Was completly snowed under with work & stuff at my Dad's house today. Any chance I can collect the diff from you on Friday about lunchtime ?
Pete
I could also be interested in spare fusebox & BECM Power board for my P38's. They are both GEMS & ok at moment, but you never know !!