The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
54 posts

I use a vacuum pump on the bleed hose from radiator to the header tank whilst filling, and them keep the vacuum going as the engine warms up. Seems to always get all the air out with no problems.

Some peeps suggest parking it uphill, or jacking the front up, so the air tends to move towards the rad.

+1 on using a screwdriver to close the door latch, while door is open. As long as the BECM thinks the door is shut, then it will let you "lock" the car for sleep tests.

It's also the best way to test latches, because you cannot get locked out, and can still remove the latch to change motors and/or microswitches.

I took the dash out and did the Audi core method on mine. Sorted the heater box flap shafts at same time.

Surely the easier method is to make sure the correct engine type is selected in the BECM. The BECM converts the analog reading from temp sender & fuel sensor to a value from 0-255, which then drives the gauges. It's more likely the A-D conversion changes than the gauge settings ?

But then there are many different instrument pack part numbers

I also use cruise on my GEMS 4.6 for most motorway journeys. At 70 the trip generally gives 20-21 as long as I reset it to clear the local trips first.

Thanks. Ordered one with contacts. Will update when fitted & see if the issues gets resolved.

I suspect my HEVAC connector socket contacts have the usual "gone loose with age" problem. Mine mainly affects the passenger vents so not often an issue for my6 side of the car !!

I also get the book symbol, which usually clears after cleaning the 16-pin connector. Still trying to figure out how to pull the socket contacts from the housing to tighten them. Ideally I would prefer to replace the connector, but cannot find one, except on 2nd hand motors.

Info is all in RAVE

**Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge**
The engine coolant temperature gauge sensor has
the capability to sense from –40  C to +130  C. Petrol
and Diesel resistance valves are different.
Both Petrol and Diesel sensors are interfaced to the
Instrument Cluster (Z142) via the BeCM (Z238). The
resistance value then being represented by an A/D
data transfer generating the required angular
deflection on this gauge. 

**Fuel Gauge**
When the fuel tank level is low (“E”), the resistance
value of the gauge sensor is 270W for petrol and
diesel engines. As the fuel level increases, the
resistance of the sensor decreases. When the fuel
tank is full, the resistance value of the sensor for
petrol engines is 19W and for diesel engines 25.8W .
When the fuel gauge sensors resistance value
increases to 175W (9 liters/2.25 US gallons, the low
fuel warning light will illuminate to warn of the fuel
status. Both Petrol and Diesel sensors are interfaced
to the Instrument Cluster (Z142) via the BeCM
(Z238). The resistance values then being
represented by an A/D data transfer generating the
required angular deflection on the gauge.

Bolt wrote:

Is this an NAS spec, or UK, or???
If you are here, where we have the wheel on the correct side (as opposed to the right side) then I would suspect

I am sure Gilbert, when he wakes up, will have some insight as well as a dig at LHD vehicles and their owners!

It all started with the Romans. Gotta keep that sword handy in the right hand !!

If you do manage to make good NRV's, there could be lots of people interested in buying them.

I got a quote from Dunlop Systems back in 2021 for them, but decided not to invest £500 plus VAT !!

Quote: "The part number you require is E 3 1133 00 36 @ £10.30 each. There would be an MOQ of 50 pieces on this"


Also remember that NRV-2 is always open when there's tank pressure, so generally has the least wear on the tip & o-ring. Examine them all and put the best one in NRV-1 position.

Grab this document. It has nice diagrams of how the valve block works.

Also the diaphragm valve does not have a separate disc. It should be bonded to the rubber, so if yours doesn't rep0lace the diaphragm. Diaphragm valve picture

Definitely different V8 ECU's for each market. Presumably this is because they are programmed for zero, two or four O2 sensors ?

V8 ECU Part Number List

There's only two possible paths for tank air when the system is switched off:

  1. NRV-1 should be holding tank pressure before it gets to the diaphragm valve.
  2. The other route is via NRV-2 --> Inlet Valve --> Block gallery --> Exhaust Valve --> NRV-3 --> diaphragm.

Scenario 2 is very unlikely, so I would suspect NRV-1.

When I did my 4.0 project rebuild, I did a simple mod to the exhaust manifolds. enter link description here

Now it's possible to undo the downpipe studs, and remove the heads complete with the manifolds !! Then heatshields, etc can be done on the bench.

While it's apart check & replace core plugs. They could well be corroded & potential leak point.

Do you have something like a Hantek multi-channel USB scope available ? If so hook up the 4 sensors & see how the signals look at speed.

When I'm refurbishing the pumps, I generally run the motor after taking the piston & con-rod off the motor spindle. That way you can hear & feel if there's bearing wear as well.

or make a sturdy frame of similar dimensions to the airbag mounts in the car.

It could also be the little pump, hoses or vacuum valve inside the box with the actuator. ECU generally just need re-soldering & possibly capacitor replacement.

Mine has intermittent operation of the vacuum valve, so fails to engage.

I'm sure someone will disagree or correct me, but on the point of heat of LED vs Regular bulbs, surely adding resistors to fool the BECM, means the same wattage is still being used & dissipated ?

I fitted these on mine back in Dec 2021 when doing the ball joints. Been fine so far & £15 each..

eBay ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Fits Land Rover Range (1994-2002)