Jack the front of the car under the axle for access. Unbolt the prop flange from the VCU output flange. Then with rear wheels on ground & gearbox in neutral, use a suitable socket (cannot remember the size) on the VCU flange & long bar to turn the VCU. It should be stiff but will turn slowly.
{edit]. Look in RAVE with the RR Classic. Section 41, page 18 shows the VCU bench test. Similar turning force should work with the VCU in the car !!
Best done with a Nanocom so you can check the modulation. It needs to be around 50% at idle.
Definitely buy the 9/16" tool. Makes the job many times easier than fiddling with sockets. 14mm does not fit properly. I tried two different 9/16" sockets, neither of which were narrow enough, so bought the tool.
Regarding the AC Request & Grant, remember these go via the large connector under the coolant header tank. Could just the a bad connection there, but worth checking the voltage at the engine ECU end as well as at the HEVAC ?
The compressor clutch TSB is a completely separate issue.
Not checked mine in ages. Will have a look in the morning if I remember.
I have used these sensors several times. RTG Automotive P38 ABS Sensor
Had one fail after a few weeks, and the seller replaced it FoC straight away. Been working fine ever since Dec 2021.
There are a few numpties on there that deserve their threads being tagged with FFrankie
Likewise, I haven't done a thing to either of my P38's. Green one is waiting for a wash & me to have a go with T-Cut on the hedge scratch down one side. The blue one is waiting on a battery via my son's mate using GSF staff discount !!
Welcome. Totally agree with the analog clock stuff above. Arrival time is always "roughly XX mins" anyway !!
I'm wondering what to ask it next ?
Makes me wonder if the Maximus threads were an early prototype version of Frankie ?
Wriggle all the cables to the fusebox. I had a problem about a year ago with the main battery feed to the fusebox. Everything would cut momentarily & come back a second or so later. The main feed was bad, plus found a few dry joints on the PCB connections to the relays.
Later version of RAVE does mention it:
Gearbox Oil Cooler – Diesel
The gearbox cooling process relies mainly on ram air
entering through an aperture in the LH side of the bumper
moulding and is dispersed over the oil cooler. The cooled
oil is fed back to the automatic gearbox via the return pipe,
which is located parallel to the feed pipe on the LH side on
the automatic gearbox.
A small electric fan is fitted to the front of the oil cooler to
cool the gearbox oil during long periods of elevated
gearbox oil temperatures i.e. during extended idle in drive
or low speed towing. A gearbox oil temperature switch is
fitted adjacent to the warning light switch on the oil cooler.
This switch monitors the gearbox oil temperature. When
the gearbox oil temperature reaches 95C ± 3C the
switch provides the ground for the oil cooler relay located in
the engine compartment fusebox.
The relay receives a power supply on pin 86 from shorting
link 8 (J792) in the engine compartment fusebox. The
ground for the relay pin 85 is provided through the gearbox
oil temperature switch. The relay therefore will not energise
unless the gearbox oil temperature switch reaches its
defined limit of 95C ± 3C.
A separate power supply is connected to the relay pin 30
from fuse F28 (30A). When the gearbox oil temperature
switch energises the relay, power is routed via relay pin 87
to the electric fan located on the front of the oil cooler.
As gearbox oil temperature decreases the oil temperature
switch deactivates the relay by breaking the relay coil
ground circuit. As the ground circuit for the relay is
interrupted, the power supply is disconnected.
The ground for both the gearbox oil temperature switch
and the electric fan is via a ground point (E0557).
That seller needs to check his car models. Although the title pictures show a P38, his description calls it a dicsovery !!
Has anyone contacted with a sensible offer ?? i.e. Definitely only £500 as it is.
Apart from the Immo, it needs headlining sorting, seats & carpets cleaning, rusty body (& prob lots else).
I got them for my V8 4.0 from BM Cats.
If you're restoring the missing centre box, check the lengths as shown on the BM website. They do vary from different manufacturers. I had to return one pair to All Parts, because the CAT's were about 50mm too short.
Last year, I had to chat with the insurance customer advisor as the renewal was about £850. Mentioned the keyless theft, and they said yes that's the problem, so explained that P38's don't have that feature. He called the underwriter & then called back with much better price around £450. Not great but thats cos of where I live !!
Si,
Are your F-Out boards still available ?
Pete
Would have thought most MOT places are closed on Boxing Day ??
I have done one without cutting anything. With glovebox out, undo any screws holding the ducting that obscures the motor. Then there's just enough room to move the duct & access the two motor screws.