Later version of RAVE does mention it:

Gearbox Oil Cooler – Diesel
The gearbox cooling process relies mainly on ram air
entering through an aperture in the LH side of the bumper
moulding and is dispersed over the oil cooler. The cooled
oil is fed back to the automatic gearbox via the return pipe,
which is located parallel to the feed pipe on the LH side on
the automatic gearbox.
A small electric fan is fitted to the front of the oil cooler to
cool the gearbox oil during long periods of elevated
gearbox oil temperatures i.e. during extended idle in drive
or low speed towing. A gearbox oil temperature switch is
fitted adjacent to the warning light switch on the oil cooler.
This switch monitors the gearbox oil temperature. When
the gearbox oil temperature reaches 95C ± 3C the
switch provides the ground for the oil cooler relay located in
the engine compartment fusebox.
The relay receives a power supply on pin 86 from shorting
link 8 (J792) in the engine compartment fusebox. The
ground for the relay pin 85 is provided through the gearbox
oil temperature switch. The relay therefore will not energise
unless the gearbox oil temperature switch reaches its
defined limit of 95C ± 3C.
A separate power supply is connected to the relay pin 30
from fuse F28 (30A). When the gearbox oil temperature
switch energises the relay, power is routed via relay pin 87
to the electric fan located on the front of the oil cooler.
As gearbox oil temperature decreases the oil temperature
switch deactivates the relay by breaking the relay coil
ground circuit. As the ground circuit for the relay is
interrupted, the power supply is disconnected.
The ground for both the gearbox oil temperature switch
and the electric fan is via a ground point (E0557).

That seller needs to check his car models. Although the title pictures show a P38, his description calls it a dicsovery !!

Has anyone contacted with a sensible offer ?? i.e. Definitely only £500 as it is.

Apart from the Immo, it needs headlining sorting, seats & carpets cleaning, rusty body (& prob lots else).

I got them for my V8 4.0 from BM Cats.

If you're restoring the missing centre box, check the lengths as shown on the BM website. They do vary from different manufacturers. I had to return one pair to All Parts, because the CAT's were about 50mm too short.

Last year, I had to chat with the insurance customer advisor as the renewal was about £850. Mentioned the keyless theft, and they said yes that's the problem, so explained that P38's don't have that feature. He called the underwriter & then called back with much better price around £450. Not great but thats cos of where I live !!

Si,
Are your F-Out boards still available ?

Pete

I'm not obsessed with customising either of mine. The only mods are replacement stereo (1 wasn't working, and the other was missing). Maintenance has been varied from one complete engine rebuild to sorting the EAS properly on both plus wheel bearings, steering joins, prop spiders,etc.

Would have thought most MOT places are closed on Boxing Day ??

Thorst wrote:

JimAHH wrote:

Need another bank holiday next week really..

One every week would be nice.

th.

Not when you're self-employed & paid by the day !! I'm down 2 days money this month & 2 last month.

I have done one without cutting anything. With glovebox out, undo any screws holding the ducting that obscures the motor. Then there's just enough room to move the duct & access the two motor screws.

No idea. Unfortunately it could be yet another fine car that ended up in the scrppers.

I did see a dark blue P38 on the M3 near Winchester in Feb 2024 with reg "P38HSE" that is still MOT'd. I was doing 70 on the cruise when it whizzed past me.

I use only two valves & tees. That way you can pump both rears up together, and then same for the L&R fronts. Easier to get it level.

Is thta an alloy sump on a GEMS engine, or bits of the block blown out ?? If you have the space & tools, it's not that hard to either get the engine out, or just drop the sump & inspect before deciding.

There's usually plenty of decent engines out there from scrappers. You probably only need the bottom half.

Don't throw them away. I could certainly do with the motor & bearings sections. I have one with fractured magnets that need sorting (it fell off the bench).

I'm 1/2 mile from J5 on the M4 if you're passing this way.

There's no light to show it engaged. Only the light on the CC on-off switch.

Usually it's a vacuum leak somewhere, i.e.

1. Either end of the pipe between brake pedal & the tee.
2. Inside the pump housing. There's smaller 4mm pipes between the motor & the vacuum relay.
3. The vacuum relay itself not sealing.
4. Leaking or badly adjusted brake switch

Best option is to go through the test procedure in RAVE. Also on the later ECU, you can check it using Nanocom.

Not sure if others noticed, but there were issues with several DAB multiplexes over the last two weeks across many areas in the UK. It was mainly the National channels. Arquiva had screwed up the service name data so the signals were not ETSI compliant. Tuners were missing about 40-60 channels depending on where people were located. Wierdly it only impacted USB DAB receivers. My Pioneer DEH-S720 worked ok.

Myself & several others on the DAB-Z thread on xda-developers emailed Arquiva, and eventually they fixed it yesterday morning.

Can't tell from the outside !! I would run them using a 12V battery first & see what they are like. Then open up & inspect.

where did you find the 20dB DAB amp ?? I've been searching for a 12V one.

I suspect the key points here are changing the injectors & oil pickup cleaing and o-ring probably helped a lot.

Cylinder-4 does seems a bit low on compression ? Are the spark plugs all same colour around the tips ?

I tried various screen antennas with little success. Even outside the heated area, I suspect the glass tint is not helping.

Now both my P38's have magnetic roof antennas which work really well. Eightwood DAB Antenna

w4ftr wrote:

romanrob wrote:

W4, where are you based? Chiswick? Put the nano on it before you spend more money on it. if you're SW London I can help

Thanks romanrob - I'm actually in Northamptonshire, the username is my reg plate rather than postcode. Mine is a Thor, so assuming a GEMS Nanocom wouldn't be much use, or is it simply that it works for everything else apart from the engine module?

As a bit of a plot twist, the seller of the green dot receiver has received it back, plugged it into his, and it worked instantly.

Really odd.

Nanocom license only affect engine ECU type. All other ECU's work with any Nanocom, so you can sort the BECM settings..