Strange. Will compare with mine later. At moment diagnostic socket is soaking in white vinegar to clean the corrosion. Was working a week or two ago, but now cannot connect to any ECU. 🙃 Been a bit damp in the air lately, & too much working from home.

RAVE says you can disable or enable the automatic interior light operation. Owners Handbook in the "interior" section.

I always get the "invalid fault code" with both Nanocom & EAS-Unlock, even when the system is working perfectly.

My guess is there are codes in the ECU that were never figured out by Blackbox or RSW Solutions. Apparently Blackbox used an old T4 system to understand the ECU's, but you never know what else LR put in there. Would the ECU code to be disassembled & lots of decoding to figure it out, but probably not worth it.

Mirafiori-Max wrote:

My conclusion from going through all the data:

• Some of the time the system works as is intended, user inputs become the correct valve actions which lead to correct heights. (log EAS1)
• Some of the time (usually resulting in an EAS error) the user inputs become the correct valve actions but do not lead to the heights changing as expected. The only explanation that comes to my mind is that the valve actions of the ECU do not actually take place as intended, therefore the target height is not achieved. That would lead me to believe that the driver pack (or cable connections between ECU and valves) does not drive the valves properly. Since the ECU has no feedback if the valve is actually opening/closing or not.
• Another thing is that the on/off of the compressor is not in sync with the opening/closing of the pressure switch. Does that have to be?

At least its working some of the time, so all components are actually functional.

Definitely check the pin & socket contacts inside the connector under the valve block. As I said take one pin out of the housing, and try it into each socket contact. Bet you a pint or two that some are loose !!

Generally if the pressure switch show tank low, then the pump will cycle on & off each time the ECU does even small height adjustments. Only if the tank is full & pressure switch closed will the ECU do height adjustments without pump coming on . . . and then only for small adjustments.

I definitely noticed that Nanocom often shows strange combinations, such as pump running after pressure switch closes, but I do suspect it's simply the delay in reading the data. Consequently the pump is already running, but Nano doesn't yet know that the pressure switch has changed state.

Would be useful to know what your stored targets actually are ?? Was the change from Motorway to Standard, or Std to High mode.
Also the speed & valve status during the drive would help.

It certainly appears that the ECU commanded a height change about third of the way in & target heights went up accordingly, but the actual sensor values stayed in the same range for a while. Then after a few mins the heights actually increased. Would be interesting to see the valve status & confirm this.

Also was the pump trying to fill the tank, hence not enough air ?

Regarding to Driver to Solenoid connector, you need to take one pin out, and test the tightness of each socket contact. Even if they are clean, the sockets do lose their grip on the pins & become intermittent.

I agree swapping sensors over might give more info, but they seem to be working within normal variation to me.

Lastly, remember Nanocom can only read the data relatively slowly, so can miss data if the ECU is doing stuff in-between the readings. Nanocom grabs all data every cycle, rather than just what is needed for the trace. Lots of useless data is read.

As you have Nanocom, do a recording to SD card while driving a few miles. This might show a sensor dead spot.

It definitely looks like the car has gone "Extended Mode" which is a failsafe if the ECU thinks the chassis is grounded. Simply if the ECU sees no change in height when trying to adjust, it assumes it's grounded and extends fully !!

The other thing that causes the same issue is bad connections between the driver pack & solenoid valves. This triggers the same extended mode to happen. The connector is underneath the valve block, so that has to come out to check it.

Additionally, accessing the HEVAC diagnostics is always temperamental. Nanocom docs also mention that it can be more difficult if BECM is unlocked. I have found this one works best with engine running.

eBay items have a royal Mail "collect from home" option provided you buy the postage via ebay. Save a trip to PO.

Also you can also end the item early if it sells elsewhere.

Take the Idle Valve out and thoroughly clean it inside & clean the connector..

Some versions of BECM will not lock the car with bonnet open . . others do seem to ? Both my P38 now have the bonnet switch disconnected, which means I can test the locking, sleeping, etc with it open !!

When I did the ball joints on mine, after having to drill out the old sensors (even though they were working), I converted the sensor holes in the hubs to slots. That way I can remove the hub next time without disturbing the sensors.

Here's the original post from the Nanocom forums by MartyUK. Not sure if it only applies to WaboD or C as well. There's been no indication whether BBS fixed it or not.

_Had a look at a couple of P38's with ABS problems, which have both turned out to be the wheel speed sensor. The Nanocom will come up with the fault code of what sensor is faulty, so that's easy enough to troubleshoot/replace...

However, if you go into the Nanocom Inputs window in the WABCO D ABS (I can't comment on the 'C' as I've only looked at Thor vehicles lately!) I've seen that with the dodgy sensor, 3 sensors have shown a proper voltage reading and one (the faulty one) has shown 0.00V.

However the issue is that the one showing the fault isn't the same as the one the fault is logged against. So I did a run around of the vehicle plugging/unplugging each sensor in turn and found that the Nanocom labels are slightly incorrect:

When Front/Right was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Front/Right sensor
When Front/Left was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Rear/Right sensor
When Rear/Right was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Rear/Left sensor
When Rear/Left was unplugged, it showed 0.00V on Front/Left sensor

Is it possible to get this looked into (I guess it just needs the labels changed, or the values moved to line up with the correct labels) for a future software update?

Just to confirm, any fault codes stored in the ABS ECU which relate to a specific sensor are correct - it is only in the inputs where it shows the sensor voltages that they don't line up. I am not sure if this carries over to the wheel speed readings aswell, as the ABS ECU won't give live data above 5mph, so haven't had a chance to test that yet._

STC3064 seems to be out of stock from most suppliers. STC3063 (left door) seems to be more available

Microswitches probably bad.

If he did the test on two-wheel rollers, it will do strange things.

I would suggest Arp Studs rather than bolts. Much less potential for damaging the threads in the block. AZ510A is the correct set.

According to wikipedia, it's 144-170kg depending on version.

I have the Draper 450kg stand, and it easily holds my 4.6

Did you check the pressure relief valve ?

As far as the replacement engine, I would definitely spin it over on engine stand with spark plugs removed & and check compressions as well as oil pressure. It will also be easy to see any oil leaks & fix them before installing.

If you're really creative you could rig up some pipework & do a coolant pressure test as well ?

I have always understood the Nanocom EDC, GEMS or Thor license only affect the Engine diagnostics.

Maybe it was different on earlier SW versions with some modules locked out for different licenses ? Mine is running latest release version, and with GEMS only license, shows all the menu options for Wabco C & D.

The emulator is useful but is not representative of the current BBs release !!

Maybe a generic OBD diagnostic reader will give faster updates from GEMS ? Most generic diag will talk to GEMS ok, just not the other ECU's.

I like my Nanocom, but definitely agree it's a bit slow to pull data.