Yeh I’ve got a close eye on eBay for a decently priced set, just they seem to carry a premium for the rear lights. The front ones seem to be cheap for aftermarket clears so I’ll add them to my order when I get all the clips and brackets I’ve broken! Need some new rear bumper brackets anyway as they were the only things that have rusted
Which I’m honestly astonished at! Somthing to be said landrover were good at corrosion prevention it seems....... well the day they made my one!
Going to order the U-Pol Raptor bed liner as well as a bloke at work let me have a look at the finish he got on his Wrangler bumpers and it’s pretty good/close to ‘standard’ plastic feel just with a hint of sandpaper! He said it makes a fantastic under body sealant as well so I’m temped to get the large kit and coat the underbody as well
Also anyone got any ideas to painting the black trim around the windows? Caught the rear quarter lights one with the sander so just need some touch up really
Dont suppose anyone has a part number for rear bumper bolts?
Out she comes, had to back her up to get the doors back on. Just the drivers door exterior to do now and that’s the front, drivers side and rear done, then turn it around and the other side and roof......
Really don’t know how to tackle the roof and get a good finish! I’m thinking I might prep and prime it then pay a body shop to do the roof for me!
Test panel.... came up really nice. Got a few what I can only describe as dimples in the paint. But for a first go with a spray gun not too bad. That’s wetsanded and compounded. Don’t want to use polish as the only one I have is meguiers ultimate polish and it says it’s got wax in and I know your not supposed to wax new paint for 90 days
I’m thinking of spraying the bumpers with U-Pol Raptor bed liner. Really hard wearing and a guy at work has done his bumpers in it and it’s not too far from the factory ‘bobbly’ plastic finish.
My bumpers have 20 years of war wounds on so a thick coating would be good to cover all the scrapes
Yeh I’ll be doing the whole roof, going to do that last as I know it’s going to be a pain in the arse! So I’m getting all my learning and practice in with panels that are low down, doing it section by section then might do one final coat over the entire car just to ensure that each section blends in, I’ve tried to do each section up to a trim peice so any colour mismatch from my amature technique or slightly off paint mixing won’t be so obvious!
Yeh I will defiantly be sanding it back and polishing, I’ve been using one of the rear bumper peices as a test peice as these are easy to recover and respray if I burn through which I have been. The paint is just taking longer to cure than I excpected just need to be more careful on my edges and maybe go for a 70% perfect flat apose to trying to get it 100% flat before polishing. It does come up good though when I don’t screw up the wet sanding!
I just get over exited and want to get sanding to bring out the gloss, just have to be patient and wait for the paint to harden up a bit for a week or so. I’m
Using 1500 grit then 2000grit then I’ve even got 3200, 4000, 6000 and even 14000 micromesh in 50m rolls! But that’s a bit over the top lol! Might use the 3200 and 6000 on the edges just to remove bibs and dust without damaging the paint at all.
So the following post is purely a picture update. Laid the paint on pretty thick, and came out pretty good I would say for my first time spraying single stage have got some overspray on the main car now though.
But I’m happy with treated corrosion and orange peel from hell for 90 days as I’m going to wait for it to fully cure before I wet sand and polish, don’t want to burn through like I was doing on my test panel after waiting just the normal 48 hours.
So I thought the colour was going to be a couple of shades darker, but I think once the trim is back on and it’s all polished up it will look really good! It kind of changes on the light, as stupid as it sounds it’s really dark grey in the shadows and almost primer grey light in the sun....
So here we go, enjoy..... once it’s all done I might even clear coat just the exterior panels if the gloss isn’t up to standard.
That’s good cheers Gilbertd
Luckily enough my drug dealer spec window tint has held the window togeather so no open car.
Worryingly I’ve found that the underlay in the drivers side footwell is soaked, but I think that’s from when the sunroof dropped open slightly during winter so I’ll just keep an eye on it
I thought about that, but I am going for a more modern colour but not too modern that it looks out of place.
Was going to lay the one stage base on the wings and the small panels this weekend but this bloody stormy weather is not the best for painting! So I figured I’m going to get the bonnet off and prep that this weekend then I suppose I can do the entire front end panels in one swoop next weekend if the nice weather comes back.
I’ll be spraying in the home made spray booth but even so I just need the humidity to drop a bit at the moment.
Removed the rear trim yesterday and broke the passenger side rear window (the one in the boot area) turns out the previous owner had already had a window broken and the fitter glued the trim in while he was fitting a new one as I found my sub woofers with shards of glass in prior to tgis and thought nothing of it.
Typical! Might just use my glass cover from my insurance once all is finished to get it fixed as they seem to be V expensive!
Anyone know if when I remove the bonnet does the bonnet open warning keep the BECM awake?
Primed one wing, the rear bumper panels and the front grille strip today.
Stripped the rubber and sanded down the other wing, applied body filler and the alachrom, just waiting a day now for everything to cure before sanding
And the dog was sent inside when I was spraying!
Yeh they do, it just means I’d have to buy a rivnut kit and so on and so forth. Just I’ve got tons of epoxy is all lol.
Busy today! Stripped the rear end down and had to clean the carport as 20 years of dust, poo and rust was piling up. I honestly recon I’ve shifted about 5kg of trapped dirt so far!
Rear bumper nuts both sheared off..... still got the bumper off to reveal this....... not bad seems this is all the rust I’ve found on the car so far (other than a few untreated stone chips)
Anyone know if you can buy/order just the bumper attachment plate bit? Seems it might be easier to replace than drill out as all 8 bolts move. If not it’s no worry I’ll just take them to work and drill them out at work.
All 4 mud flaps disintegrated on me during removal so they will all need replacing but I figured parts like this into the budjet anyway.
Also started prepping the cars panels that can be removed easily. God it’s taking for ever to get the bloody glue off from the rubber arches!
There was so much corrosion on the wing under the paint. Why on earth did landrover use steel brackets and clips on aluminium parts!! Just fighting with bi-metallic corrosion.
Anyway with it all removed then removed the paint around the patches to approximately 2cm I applied aluminium chromate to the bare metal to treat it, then applied filler/knifing putty, to fill in the holes and divots where the corrosion once was! Just leaving it to harden over night as the weather is closing in here!
Last job was I cleaned the first wheel arch up, de-greased it and then coated it in a layer of underbody seal, as there was no corrosion under here it seems a waste to paint here what can’t be seen when the liner is in anyway! So I’ve done one coat and I’ll stick another on tommorow, then start on the other side.
Just a test here to see what’s better. To stipple or to brush. Not that it matters as I can’t see it anyway!
I’m sure Hamerite splits people as to its quality and longevity, but as I said there was no corrosion under here at all, and this stuff is cheap, on the shelf and easy to apply. I see it as a supplement to the paint that has already lasted 20 years.
No10chris, which ones? The rubber arch covers or the ones on the end of the foot steps? The arch covers will be as I like the contrast they give, not trying to make it too far from standard either. Basically everything that I took off will go back on. Plus any bits that are missing that I can source.
Aka it’s missing the plastic splash guard behind the wing/wheel arch liner on the drivers side.
The foot steps will not be going back on as they are in a right state! Completely rotten, just leaving them on at the moment as there useful to get to the roof.
Thinking about these steel rivnuts that are causing all the bi-metallic corrosion with the alluminium panels. Seems they are only supporting the headlight guards. I was thinking of removing the rivnuts and then sorting the panels out, and when it comes to re fitting them, just epoxy glue them on.
Realistically the covers are then bolted to the brackets so I would still be able to remove the covers if needed.
Just figured it would be the safest way to keep the corrosion from coming back
Started the strip this afternoon.
So no clips broken by me.......so far! The mudguards has to be ripped off in the then then the screws drilled out! 20 years of being belted directly with mud and water was not good!
But the main thing is there is no rust from the rear doors forward. I’m going to get rid of the door steps I think as they are rusted through and I wouldn’t like to stand on them again now I’ve had a good look at them! Going to have to angle grind the rear bolts off though as nothing is shifting them and the rust has eaten them in to nothing!
I’m not a fan of foot steps anyway so I might just take the brackets off as well then I can treat the whole chassis with POR-15 when I’ve finished the re-spray.
Problem is now, after about 2 months of pure sunshine it’s started raining this evening! Typical! So I think I’ll just continue stripping this weekend and flat back the front wings, lower part of the front grille and the small bits below the headlights.
If I can eat the rear mudflaps off I will remove the little painted panels on the rear bumper to flat them off too
Cheers for the advice on the roof rails, they came straight off.... even had 20 years of dust and bugs under them!
Anyone know how to remove the black roof rail trims? Had a little play, looks like clips but I don’t want to force it if is bolted through the roof.
Plus extra holes in the roof seems exactly the kind of think Landrover would do........
Headlining out job? No worry’s if it is as my headlining is very baggy anyway so it will motivate me to get that sorted over summer as well!
I used the plastic trick when we did my mates MX-5 but we didn’t use 2K paint on his as it was just a track day car