Sorry, never been to one of these before and have a couple of questions.

How do they work? Is it a bring a tent/caravan and camp type deal or find a local B&B etc?

And, where is the workshop?

Depending on dates and girlfriend approval it sounds pretty good. I have a reasonable tool box I could bring, an engine lift and a MIG welder if needed. I can't think of anything that needs particular attention on mine at the moment, besides a wobble at speed and the car no longer responding to the key fob. 4 months is a long time in P38 terms though, who knows what will have happened between now and then?

Perhaps I can gather the necessary bits for a DSP replacement and an Android powered head unit between now and then :P

I'm up for helping and meeting others though.

Wow, fantastic job on the clean up!

Makes me want to break out the big box o' cleaning products and the machine polisher.

I'll just leave this here: https://rangerovers.pub/topic/257-range-rover-winter-camp :P

Off for a wheel balancing then, see what that shows up.

Might as well get the tracking/steering alignment done at the same time - it's been knocked about a bit in my ownership.

What kind of adjustability is there in the P38 steering/suspension alignment?

Took a trip up to see some friends on the Wirral at the weekend and took the P38. Not long after setting off there was a request from the passenger seat to keep it below 60mph, as her seat was wobbling.

We've had this before with the offroad wheels/tyres fitted and I've always put it down to poor balancing of the tyres and the fact that the steel wheels aren't hub-centric, like the alloys are. With the offroad set fitted I can also feel the wobble in my seat and the steering wheel and it gets worse the faster you go - which hasn't been a problem as our offroad trips are reasonably local and on rural roads so high speeds aren't really encountered. However, it's always 100% gone upon refitting the road set.

This weekend, my girlfriend said that the wobble was really bad in her seat but I could barely feel a thing through the steering wheel or through my own seat - which I found odd. If the car was shaking I'd expect to feel through the whole car and if she hadn't mentioned it I'm not sure I'd have noticed anything at all. It also seemed to come and go, and came in at different speeds throughout the journey. Sometimes 70mph was fine and sometimes she'd report the wobble as low as 50mph.

When fitting the wheels before the trip I made sure that the directional treads were all pointing the right way and I set the tyre pressures according to the handbook (28psi front, 38psi rear). The wheels were torqued to 80lbs ft while still in the air and doing each nut in a star pattern. The only difference on one wheel was a missing locking wheel nut cover. They were re-checked on arrival and everything was as it should be.

The wheels are the OEM 18" wheels (Hurricane style, I think), powdercoated grey and wearing 255/55 R18 tyres of a brand I've never heard of before buying this car.

I don't think the missing wheel nut cover would cause such wobbling and I'm hesitant to suspect the tyres, even though they're an unknown brand, as they've previously been fine and have sat in the garage since they were last used.

Any suggestions?

In other news, I somehow managed to get 28mpg (and climbing) showing on the screen between Uppingham and Leicester before hitting Friday afternoon traffic all the way north :(

Factoring in the traffic and including a period of 20 minutes sat not moving at all, we reached our destination showing 20.0 - which I was pleasantly surprised by.

Seems ok to me.

The L322 is growing on me. A few years ago I really didn't like them but I'm warming to the earlier models, before the facelift.

I think I appreciate them more since the release of the current model - which I really don't like. It doesn't look like a Range Rover to me any more. At least the L322 still looks like a "proper" Range Rover.

I'm sure once this is replaced by some other "monstrosity" it'll grow on me too :D

Perhaps it's a price/reach thing - the closer things move to being in my price range, the better they look to me :P

I'm not sure if I could go diesel though. I working a truck and van dealership and see so many high cost failures with diesel emissions systems, fuel pumps, injectors etc that I've vowed to never get a diesel car. If I did, it would have to be one old enough to do without things like DPF filters and AdBlue etc.

Or, perhaps a "polite reminder" that the correct lifting procedures are in RAVE so please piss off and read that instead of bothering people here with your questions because someone already asked it back in the mists of time locks thread :P

That's how I do mine. Set the EAS to max, set the inhibitor switch and open the tail gate to lock it all in place. Then jack from a chassis rail.

Glad to hear someone else confirm I'm not damaging my car as no one has replied to that other thread yet.

I really couldn't figure out why he thought extending (an inflated) airbag would damage it.

Oooooh...that red one looks nice!

If I didn't already have one I'd be sorely tempted by that one!

Gilbert, have you ever had to remove window tints? My Focus came with them on all windows except the windscreen. Took me hours using a hair dryer and a steam cleaning machine. Had to take the front windows out of the doors and strip the bootlid down to get at the rear one. I gave up and left the rear side windows (3dr car, the windows don't come out)!

My P38 has tinted windows but they thankfully left the front windows alone. I'd like to remove the tints as I think they're too dark and I can't really see much in the rear view mirror but the thought of doing it again doesn't appeal.

I picked up my '51-plate 4.6 Vogue earlier in the year for just over £3K.

Leather and wood everywhere, not a spot of rust showing anywhere, no peeling paint and very little visible wear to the driver's seat. I'm not sure I'd buy any of the ones in this thread over the one I bought.

Ok, so it needed a new front cover gasket but that could happen on a £20K one too. Then the battery died and shut the BECM down - again, something that could happen on a more expensive one too.

Fair enough. Land Rover build quality I guess!

I played with the radio button this morning, on the way to the MOT station.

I have a treble setting, a bass setting then a DSP setting. Setting it to DSP Spatial sounds the best. That it's there and makes a difference suggests I do have the DSP system.

In other news, only two advisories on the MOT. Rear brake pads getting low and brake fluid reservoir getting low. Only really one thing there. Replacing the brake pads will push the fluid back to where it should be.

I'm happy with that!

I guess that explains the slightly less than OEM look of the wires coming out of the sub. It looks like someone has drilled a hole for the cables then tried to seal it black sealant.

That makes sense if they've fitted a different amp inside it.

Used cars are full of mysteries from previous owners!

I wasn't really paying attention what was behind the trim panel when I had it off. I had a quick scan around for a large white plug, couldn't see one and got on with replacing the seat belt and putting it all back together.

I might have another root around behind there when it's back from the MOT station tomorrow.

To be honest, I thought I did have the DSP system.

The button on the radio that cycles through treble and bass etc has an option for DSP and it makes the radio sound such better.

I'll have a play with the button tomorrow in case I'm remembering it wrong.

I've just been in the back of my car changing the seat belt and it required me to take the subwoofer out.

I got a bit confused when taking it out - there's a box on the top of it that has nothing plugged in to it:

There is a smaller multiplug coming out of the join where the top part of the box meets the lower part (you can see where it comes from in the first image, above):

This connects to a loom that runs towards the front of the car somewhere.

The sub works, I can hear it changing the bass as I play with the settings on the radio.

Does this sound right?

Someone has definitely been in here before me (I'm finding this with everything I need to work on so far....) as one of the top mounting nuts is completely missing and the other one wasn't even finger tight. All four screws holding the CD changer cartridge in are missing too.

In the last week or so I watched a video of a guy undoing seized wheel nuts by heating the nut with a lighter and holding a candle above it.

The heat caused the melted wax to land on the nut and the heat in the nut pulled the wax in to the threads - the nuts then undid very easily. I've yet to try it to see if it actually does work but might be worth a try - LINK

I have one of these in my toolbox that I got for removing the badly rusted and stuck bolts on the exhaust manifold heatshield on my Focus: LINK

This worked a treat for me.

Cheers.

Is Microcat available online anywhere? That sounds like a useful thing to have access to!

Do the seat belts differ according to VIN number?

I've got my MOT coming up and the webbing on the N/S/R seat belt is frayed/slightly cut. Has been like that since I bought the car earlier this year.

Didn't notice it until recently.

I've been looking at various places and some list them as being suitable up to a given VIN number and some are just listing a seat belt for the entire production run.

I just had a quick look in RAVE and I'm either looking in the wrong place or there are no details on stripping the diff down and replacing the innards.

I can only find instructions on how to remove and refit the diff assembly.

What a fun day that was...

It spat all its coolant out from an unknown location, luckily just as I was parking up so no risk of it overheating and causing damage.

Sat for hours in a supermarket carpark, had the car towed from Coventry to the workshop in Peterborough, picked up from there by my girlfriend and on the way home a deer ran out in front of her car and demolished the front of that!

The AA sent a guy from the local Land Rover dealer, which was unexpected and nice to get a proper LR trained tech with experience of the model. IIRC, he thought it was the valley gasket.

Turned out to be the timing cover gasket. It had split on the top right corner where the water pump pumps in to the engine block.

It's been fine ever since :D