That's a lot lighter than I was expecting when looking at the weight capacities on offer!
Cheers :)
Not today but it was on Friday. I finally got my car moved from my old house to my new house and gave it its first wash in almost 4 years. Still looks a little sorry for itself and has a long way to go but the journey has at least begun!
Does anyone know roughly how much a 4.6 Thor weighs?
After being off the road for a few years I'm finally picking up a cheap replacement engine. I'm looking to get an engine stand to work on it and move it around with and want get one that's up to the job.
It's been three weeks or so. The Mrs finally remembered where she put it when faced with the prospect of buying a new key on the off chance it might work lol
Problem solved, found the key 😁
I have in my head he changed it to something simple like 1212. I've got it written down on a piece of paper in the car but that's at the old house. I'll pop by later to check it. I can't remember exactly what the situation was with my BECM and the EKA. I'll drop Marty a PM and see if he remembers or kept any notes.
If the BECM has been changed then a dealer key won't work, right? Can the keys be programmed to the car at all?
I left the car unlocked when I parked it up. I wanted to be able to get in easily and knew the battery would die. I have a Nanocom anyway :)
Edit: I just remembered why I thought the BECM had been changed. When I pulled it out to send it to Marty someone had written something like "EKA: XXXX" on the top. This number was different to the one Land Rover gave me but the unit was completely locked up by that point anyway.
Aragorn wrote:
On mine you dont even need a key to put the gearbox into neutral.... Just pull the shifter into N.
Steering lock will be your main issue. At the most basic, you can probably remove the lock barrel to disengage the lock.
Well that's good news. I assumed there was some computer security that required the key to be present to operate the gearbox.
Gilbertd wrote:
The bit you don't recognise is the lock for the glovebox. That will do the job if you can get the ignition barrel out as normally it needs the key in to remove it although brute force would probably do it. If you wanted to be able to use a fob, you'd need the fob, the BeCM and the instrument cluster if you don't want to screw up your mileage on the odo.
The seller of that lockset is Phil, a member on here (username Holland-and-Holland), try dropping him an email and telling him about your problem as he doesn't come on here regularly these days.
Again, my assumption was that the computer needed to see something from the fob to allow the car to start. More good news if all it needs is the correct key to turn the ignition barrel!
nigelbb wrote:
It will be more expensive but a lot less hassle to buy a replacement key fob from a Land Rover main agent. When I bought one a year or two ago I paid about £225 & was impressed that I could still buy a brand new key for a twenty year old car. My local main agent didn't even ask for ID or the V5C but supplied a new key fob just on the registration number. It arrived in stock a couple of days after I called up & ordered.
I thought I read a few years ago that spare key supply had dried up through the dealerships. I'll look in to it but I think my BECM has been replaced by a previous owner. A while ago I had a lockout issue and the EKA the dealership provided me didn't work. I sent the BECM off to Marty to be unlocked and he said there was a different EKA code programmed in to it. I'm not sure a key from the dealership would work. Quite a lot of money to find out lol.
Thanks everyone :)
Hi all,
I've been away for a while as my car has been parked up for a few years with engine trouble. I've now moved house and have a driveway/garage/space to actually work on it.
However, in the move my one and only key has gone missing :(
I've looked on eBay for a lock set and I can see a listing for a door handle, ignition barrel, a key blade (not an actual key) and some black box thing I'm not familiar with.
I'm guessing this won't let me actually start the car? I think I'll need a set like this regardless so that I can disengage the steering column.
Starting the car would be a nice but for the time being I just need to get it moveable and on to a tow truck. What's the easiest way to achieve this? Disconnect the prop shaft or can the gearbox be put in neutral some way?
Did you have any coolant on the outside of the engine? Mine was losing coolant and the head gasket was leaking it outwards rather than in to a cylinder.
Mine sprung a leak from the top right corner of the timing cover a couple of years before that too.
I've never had much luck using those drive reducers if lots of force is needed. They always snap on me :(
They work great for low force applications though.
My 1/2 breaker bar does flex a good bit bit I've not snapped it (yet?).
StrangeRover wrote:
TL3 TL4 and special editions all used connolly.
What's TL3 and TL4?
Gilbertd wrote:
I'm not even sure about the Vogue, I'll have a proper look at my mates next time I'm round there.
My Vogue seems to be real leather on the front and arm rests. The sides and backs look to be the fake stuff - I can see the fabric backing where one of the seats has been nicked by something :(
The leather on the steering wheel is real (I can tell because it's heavily worn and it's not got fabric backing) and the leather on the centre console and door cards seems to be real too. Not sure about the knee panel under the steering wheel.
No idea if the real leather Connolly and no idea how to tell.
I don't think I've ever used the wrench that comes with any of the car's I've owned. They mostly look quite cheaply made and not all that strong.
I tend to use a breaker bar to undo them. Before I got a breaker bar I used a half inch ratchet and cobbled together an extension using a deep socket over the ratchet and a half inch extension bar lol.
If your nuts have been done up that tight it might be worth checking the studs to see if the thread has been damaged/stretched.
Should be. The nuts should be done up to 80lb ft or 109Nm.
If you needed the full 440Nm I think you'd have bigger problems!
In the last few years we've cycled through a few. There was a 2017 Astra that we moved on from through boredom. It was perfectly functional, no faults but it was just so dreary it had to go.
In its place we had a 2003 Freelander that was utterly disastrous. It cost well over it's purchase price in repairs in the 12 months we had it. Worst car I've ever had the misfortune to travel in let alone own.
We've settled on this pair along with the Range Rover. After the shocker of the Freelander we decided we wanted some warranty for peace of mind with our daily drivers.
Technically my girlfriend's car but I get to drive it lots too. I've probably put just under half of its 4000 miles on it. It's great fun. 1.5 litre engine, around 130bhp bit it's so light it feels like you're flying.
This next one is my daily driver.
70+mpg, plenty quick enough, free road tax and nice and comfy. It's everything you expect of a Honda without suffering the dreary boredom of a Vauxhall Astra. Fancy clever rear seats are amazing with a toddler too. Can fit so much stuff in the back of it!
dhallworth wrote:
That looks really smart! Having had a couple of modern cars, it's the things like bluetooth streaming, DAB, etc. that you miss in the P38.
I got around the bluetooth streaming with a GROM unit but that looks really smart there.
David.
It's weird how you don't regard certain things as "necessary" until you've tried them.
My girlfriend has an MX-5 with Android Auto and Apple Carplay built in. It's by far the best in car entertainment solution I've ever used. Before she got that I was fine without it, made do with Bluetooth streaming to a Chinese Android unit. This knocks the socks off that!
There was a time I was just happy FM radio and CDs.
Sloth wrote:
I'm obviously up for another RR camp when ye olde gov' and pandemic et al allow!
Be good to have a bit more socialising pub style-in-the-workshop-yard - maybe slightly less on the big jobs and some easy things? Obviously we had a slight unforeseen late nighter last time, but it involved a P38... things happen! And it probably won't be the last time it happens.
Would that be the emergency replacement of some heater pipes through the bulkhead?
I think I'd be up for a visit, depending on when. I'm not sure how I feel venturing out in to the general population soon. Not sure if I trust we'll all be safe for a good while.
If I do come I'll be doing so without a Range Rover. I can bring tools and help out where I can - even if it's as Chief Tea Maker :)
Is yours a Thor? I gather that the GEMS engines have a different oil pressure switch thread. I think it's 1/2 UNF.
Gilbertd wrote:
How did you get rid of the Joying logo along the bottom? That would annoy the hell out of me....
Looks like it has a piece of black tape over it.
I bought a full exhaust (cats to tail pipes) from Maltings Off Road on eBay.
It went on really easily. Everything lined up, nothing needed to be adjusted or modified. The parts were branded/packaged as Allmakes. It is mild steel rather than stainless though.
I'd happily buy a other one of those if I needed to replace another exhaust.
I'd happily buy another one from them.
StrangeRover wrote:
i ordered brake fluid from ECP and it arrived to my front door the next day..
Not tried halfords,
I tried click and collect at ECP after seeing several people on various Facebook groups complaining of 2 week+ delivery times. At the time the website was listing 9 day delivery.
Didn't want to wait that long!