Pure water glass. Yours is doing exactly what mine was.
I must have a crack behind the liner of #6. Only really admitted something was wrong when it started missing at start up in the mornings, and the plug was rusting. That took a long time to manifest itself though, but I had the odd cool down leak for ages beforehand.
There is an ignition switched positive on the bottom board - as that is how I repaired the backlight failure on mine :) That was before I talked to Marty and found he knew what the fault probably was. I haven't done anything about it though as it works as is- it just means the display doesn't dim if I were to dim the rest of the dash lighting.
Personally, I don't get the appeal of manual P38s... why would you want to drive a 2.5t vehicle around with comfy seats and interior etc, and then have to change gears yourself like some kind of peasant?
But seriously - why would you want to drive a manual in a bit vehicle like these?
I had forgotten about that and yes it is a bit odd true...
I think the seats and door mirrors should only move if you unlock by pressing and holding the unlock button - and if RAVE is to be believed, that only works if the vehicle was superlocked before. I wonder though if it might try to move the mirrors a tiny bit to just move the potentiometers and get a reading from them at startup. Just a theory mind...I can't say I've paid that much attention to the mirrors, not that you'd hear them move with my lack of exhaust :)
It will be something in the door/mirror - as the mirrors are told to move over a serial data connection. So if the window is working, door amplifier etc - but the fuse blows when the mirror is moved, then its either the mirror motor has a short in it, or the wiring between it and the outstation. Or a fault within the outstation itself that is on the mirror driving circuitry.
I'd unplug the mirror (pop the tweeter off and you'll see the plug), replace the fuse and try and move the mirror - obviously it won't move, but if it doesn't blow the fuse, the fault is likely within the mirror itself.
I'd just change the oil and see as Morat says. If you're bored later, get the donor rebuilt and have it as a spare perhaps.
Depends on year - if its GEMS, its 1250, Bosch/Thor takes 1380 :)
Get a print out if you can if its done with a machine, which should prove how much has gone in. Unless they've been crafty and snuck a weight on the bottle scales during filling... I wouldn't put it past some.
Blowers running full speed isn't going to be a fusebox problem, although the pins in RL7 socket burning up is another common issue but unrelated. The tracks on the PCB are in my opinion underrated for the current of the blower at high speed.
As Marty said, it's more likely the speed controller on the blowers.
I'm not fussed whether its mild steel or this alumin... thing. If I have enough inclination I'll paint the whole thing with VHT paint anyway - certainly at least the back boxes again to hide them a bit.
I'll see if I can find one listed as allmakes4x4 this evening :)
So after a year or so of having half of my crap stainless exhaust system on my P38, I finally want to sort it - and that means going back to a 'standard' rear section, with a straight through pipe in the middle. The latter is already sorted. What I need is the rear section...
It seems a lot of aftermarket stuff is hit and miss, and what I want to avoid is something that doesn't fit or sit level again... with that in mind, has anyone tried one of these?
Sync in what way?
I'm sure Marty has come across problems before with ECUs and looms when interchanging between manual and autos, and in one scenario the engine will only rev to a certain speed.
I bought a complete set for £134 delivered from LR Direct recently. Part numbers:
STC8535 1
CAT101160
CAT101170
I can't remember if they were for single or twin exhaust... I couldn't actually see a difference so just bought them - and mine has/should have a twin exhaust. They fit fine.
No point buying used as previously stated - quality rubber encapsulated steel that lasts just long enough past the warranty period...
This is the tool I have for spring clamps - makes it far easier fitting/removing in all sorts of odd places:
Properly sized spring clamps are, in my opinion, far better than jubilee or mikalor clamps when there isn't an underlying excess pressure problem...
Admittedly, the only cars I've had with the pink/orange OAT have been P38s, which do like a good leak now and then :) Perhaps better quality or original pipes have or used to have the ends vulcanised, so the cords/threads aren't exposed?
On mine, even some of my silicone pipes have evidence of the weeping. It is very odd.
I know what you mean about the tailgate straps though... I put on a new Bearmach set a few years ago, and the 'rubber' tubes on these snapped on both sides within months.
You need to wait until key code lockout clears before trying with the Nanocom. It should clear in 30 minutes of being left alone.
The weeping at the threads seems to be a trait of OAT coolant, and I'd say is normal, and nothing to worry about. In my quest to solve the leaking problem I changed a number of hoses, all did that but none had splits etc on removal. I have no idea how it manages it...
I hate to be the harbinger of potentially bad news - but mine did exactly that... no leaks while running and hot... but when it cooled down, it would pick a hose joint and leak from it. Tighten it up, and it'd move on to another quickly enough. Mikalor clamps, silicone hoses - nothing would put an end to it.
Fast forward a year or so of this... and I start getting a miss on #6 at startup. Pull the plug and its rusty. No coolant galleries around #6, which can only really mean one thing. Must have been such a small amount of coolant getting in though as it never steamed excessively, nor did it burn its way through lots of coolant. It did need topping up - but then it was leaking as it cooled down so to be expected.
I've waterglassed the block - which for now - has held up. No more missing at startup, no leaking after it cools down, no loss of coolant. I hope it holds until I can work out what to do with this RR or its engine when funds allow.
Wholly anecdotal - but the 'cooling down and leaking' thing is a bit coincidental. I'd never come across that happening either before, and it wasn't until #6 started acting up that I really could pin down the problem. It didn't seem like I had excessive pressure, because while running, it never leaked.
Like my half kilo tub of red rubber grease... Something need grease? Got it covered ha.
My bottle is PAG46 - so long ago when I bought it but its been fine :)
See if you can get some UV dye put in when you have it gassed if it doesn't have signs of having some already - will make finding leaks in the future easier.
PAG oil is what should be used - a small bottle can be had on eBay and will last ages. Or some kind of mineral oil.