Turning off passive imombilisation also disables what is called 'friendly syncing' on the later cars. That is what will automatically sync an un-synced key when put into the ignition barrel.

Thread seems to have sidetracked slightly from OP here, but I can test keys for both transmitting anything at all, and what actual data (including the fob codes etc) is being spat out. I can even go so far as to programme this into a BECM and test the key will sync with it if required.

The nanocom will only display your EKA if it is unlocked - that is, the programming is unlocked. Not the vehicle locking/unlocking. From the factory, your BECM will be locked. Unlocking it is not possible with a Nanocom and in 99% of end-user cases, is not required.

This won't prevent you from enabling/disabling any other settings - however the vehicle must be in an unlocked state that is not requiring the EKA to be input (that is, if the vehicle starts and runs, you're probably good to go changing settings).

The buzzing is the brake pump - the P38 uses a positive pressure booster system rather than a vacuum assisted system on other vehicles. Partly because of the traction control I guess, and in part I guess it made manufacturing more straightforward between diesel and V8 varients, as the diesel would have needed a vacuum pump running on the engine just for the brakes.

When the car is left, the pressure bleeds out over time, so when you next start up, the pump has to run to build it back up to the point the pressure switch turns the pump off. Then periodically (after a good number of brake applications) the pump will run again briefly to top off the pressure. The pump is quite loud, but without comparing with another or recording it etc, its a bit hard to say if yours sounds normal.

How many brake applications you should get before the pump runs is hit and miss - 4-5 decent applications is probably realistic for a good/new accumulator. If the pump runs every time you press the pedal, your accumulator is no longer holding pressure and needs replacing. Usually accompanied by the three lights lighting up briefly.

Three lights is ABS, TC and the hand brake light

I didn't think the plastic parts followed over into the later Wabco D modulators?

It is a big car to stop compared to an Astra, and most normal cars really. I've just had to replace my E39 with an E60 M Sport and the first few times I used the brakes I nearly hit the windscreen...

That said, Marty has some experience with rebuilding the later modulator, but that was more to do with inconsistent response than a generally vague/softness I think.

Oh dear lourde, you used a rude word?!

I'm sure Richard will understand the reference.

I think the throttle body heater is only really useful in seriously cold climates while the engine is still cold. The coolant will warm it up quicker, but once the massive block of metal is up to temp below it, I can't see it adding anything.

Either way mine is gone all together.

The firewall foam is another point, as you've found, they can leak. The foam gets damp when the pipes sweat, and traps the moisture.

The other pipes I would think to be fair should be fine. A high pressure nitrogen test with soapy water in a spray bottle should find leaks though once you've replaced that pipe.

Good to hear it is going to someone that will continue to look after it :)

Would it not be worth your dad holding on to the nanocom though? I mean - at some point, he's going to need it. Unless he has one already I suppose!

IIRC the adaptives on the Bosch/Thor are actually lost if the battery is disconnected - whereas on the GEMS it definitely needs resetting with diagnostics.

I haven't tested this theory to confirm though myself as I've not had the need.

The filters have a couple of tricks hiding up their sleeves - and yes, will work with first or second gen receivers just fine.

Keys are next on the list. We have prototype replacement keys working already. Just looking to sort manufacturing next.

Marty will chime in re. his door latches I'm sure, but in terms of the RF receiver - yes, we have fixed it:

http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=84&product_id=97

Of course, you'd still need to sort the issue of the battery cover being loose. In my keys I use one 2025 and one 2032 cell (instead of two 2025 as it would have been originally) - which equates to being a bit thicker, spacing out the battery cover with no o-ring. So yes, my key is a bit susceptible to water ingress, but the batteries never come loose. And, I can remove the cover when needed, which the o-ring usually makes near impossible without destroying it.

The other thing in the vicinity above the oil filter is the feed to the heater matrix from the lower inlet manifold - on a GEMS its a pressed in stub, on the Thor its a metal pipe arrangement pushed in with an o-ring and secured with a single bolt. Those can leak, and could end up coming down the front cover.

:( it does manage to get all over the place... my radiator started leaking from the top tank on the passenger side, but the evidence appeared exactly where you pictured it. Took me a while to find that. Took the radiator out and found the sides of it weren't even straight - it had somehow got a bow in it.

Sucks about the HG though - though that said, while its a bit of a path to get around to the exhausts, are you sure it isn't the lower inlet manifold not sealing properly, or one of the heater hoses etc?

While I'm repairing my nudge bar, I could do with a measurement of the depth available for spot lights - ie the distance between the front edge and the radiator grille with the bar fitted to the vehicle. I know the LR Safari 5000 lights fit - but I want to fit something else, but they're a bit deeper.

If anyone can oblige that would be much appreciated :)

Pic for attention:

Much like the mud guards... these things are horrendous for rusting under the foam/rubber and quickly becoming beyond repair.

I have the usual 'who the f**king hell thought this was a good idea' thought all too often, on most things I work on.

Nothing modern seems to be built for ease of repair. Even the simplest jobs can become a mare. About the only thing I've played with that I haven't had this moan on is my Lister CS engine... it is lovely to take apart and work with.

Relevant:

Sounds good - you definitely don't want to skimp on the clear coat, as this is what you actually wear down over time if you polish the car. Certainly if you ever have it machine polished, some material is removed when a proper DA or rotary machine is used, and an abrasive compound.

They're the useless ones though that say its in stock, then ship something else. They seem to have normal vacuum hose etc in stock, but 2 out of 3 times I've ordered, they haven't had it. Or an air filter I ordered too... basic thing, listed as in stock - nope.

eBay make it an arse to find out what options you ordered something with if it was a multiple choice listing.... but one of my returns to ASH I've found mentions 8mm - I'm relatively sure its 8mm you need for the radiator expansion and throttle body heater (I've certainly used the same size pipe on both).

8mm sadly - its for the bleed hose from the radiator, and throttle body heater.

The nice thing about the single ply silicone hose is that it remains flexible and pretty much won't ever go bad. It's pretty much perfect for the job... it just seems to be unobtainium.

From ASH per chance?

The last time I bought it from them on eBay they sent me 3 ply as an 'upgrade' - but its useless... as oddly enough its 3 times as thick on the side wall and doesn't bend anywhere nearly as nice.

I'd like to get my hands on some more single ply for the red P38.

They are utterly shite. Really piss me off.

Must be somewhere else we can get it from.