Check the large pipe to the compressor is cold when the clutch is pulled in and spinning - even with a hot engine bay it should feel very cold, but not covered in ice. If its warm or just a bit cool, or actually icing up, you've lost refrigerant. Equally if the clutch isn't pulling in and spinning, it isn't working at all.

If the pipe is cold, but the air from the vents is warm, the blend motors might be stuck mixing hot air from the heater core in permanently.

I do find the price of LPG down here constantly going up... rarely if ever does it come down. I currently have the choice of two places at 70ppl, and one at 67ppl.

I suppose with the way petrol keeps going up, it should always be cheaper... but its still annoying. If it does start to creep up without petrol going up, in a few years I'm not sure I'd be able to warrant daily driving mine.

I'm pretty sure we nearly bought that blue one, but ended up with the red one they were selling at the same time (which, it turns out has a top hatted engine, bonus).

I like the look of the bull bars - I have a full one but it needs some repair, and getting around to it is taking longer than I'd like...

Really sad news :( Not sure what to say that hasn't already been said - RIP OB.

Errrrr is it?

Wasn't anything on the line on our red one - I know this as we replaced the line with decent quality fuel hose after some monkey snapped the plastic line and bodged it back together.

Some refrigerants are flammable, and the kit used to work on them needs to be up to the job. R134a, which I'm guessing the vehicle in question uses, is not, and is what most places will be set up for. I wouldn't be connecting any of my kit up to a system that has an unknown quantity of LPG floating around in it.

Well, it has been possibly about 2,000 miles now, and we pulled the offending plug out again on the weekend. It has a bit of the orange tinge going on sadly. No corrosion to speak of on the end of the plug threads or surround, but then it has only been in a month.

The miss at startup is starting to return by the feel of things, along with what worryingly sounds like a bit of a knock. Both the miss and knock also occur on restarting when warm if it has been left a short time. The sound goes away though, leaving only a dull repeating sound which I haven't been able to track down yet. I would think if it were bottom end, it a) wouldn't go away and b) will quite quickly get very loud before and engine-expiring event occurs and it all goes quiet. It has always been a clattery engine, but it seems to be getting worse now.

Either way. I may sling some of the water glass in and then replace the plug a few weeks later and see what happens. If that doesn't stem the plug-tinging and startup miss, I think the worst might have to be assumed, and it will be new engine time.

Machine Mart is probably the only one I've said yes to continue getting emails from, as the VAT free days are sometimes handy. That said... I still don't want a bloody log burner or stove.

Working in a B2B and B2C industry (in IT, thankfully, and even more thankfully not a bit of IT responsible for GDPR fun), it has been interesting seeing from the inside what is required of us to comply. That said, we take this kind of thing seriously, as we do with other compliancy requirements... because we've seen people and companies we work alongside get flushed down the toilet for thinking its a waste of time, and then getting caught out.

If its sitting at idle okay - about 750rpm, is your accelerator pedal a bit stiff? The way the cable is run from factory has a couple of tight bends in it that aren't ideal, and can make the aged cable bind, so it doesn't fully close reliably when you lift off. Unclip it and let it go where it wants and see if that makes a difference.

I can do you all a wicked deal on tinfoil, only three days to go on this epic deal, just PM me ;)

I wouldn't be that concerned. Explaining the P38 oddities isn't exactly new - I've had to tell my tester about the ABS light not going off until driven.

As for the brake testing, if your testing station doesn't have a 4 wheel rolling road for permanent 4WD vehicles, then they have always had to test using a decelorometer - a device that sits in the car and measures the braking force while the car is driven on road and braked to a stop. If any tester or garage isn't either insured to or would 'rather not' road test a vehicle, then I'd be going elsewhere.

Don't bother with a cheap TPS - they don't work either :) Well, the one I put on my Thor certainly didn't.

Interesting all round - so far things seem to be behaving. The plug I put in was actually some really cheapy - it was the right length and had the right thread, and was what I had to hand.

I'm pretty sure when I bought these they were the boxed individually type, though they were from eBay. The set as a whole are probably due for replacement, so I might get another set (from somewhere they should be genuine) and change them on the weekend. I'm hoping for the best outcome of a dodgy plug.

The oil looks fine, if not also in need of a change. I have a sniff testing kit for the coolant but annoyingly the fluid has turned so its no good.

The surround/bottom of threads is indeed rusty and pitted, that's what is weirdest to me.

Using it every day doing about 32 miles each day at the moment assuming I'm only going to work.

When I checked the compression last year, it was with the engine hot (that was fun), and I think it was over 200, whereas the rest were 170-180ish.

Balls accidentally deleted my other reply.

I've seen one place reference an orange colour as possibly being coolant in the cylinder.

But as you say... that only leaves a liner problem. If it is a liner problem, its impressively minor and one way, as I have no other symptoms. I guess time will tell on that theory. I plan to check the plug in a week or so if the problem doesn't return or escalate before then. If it does... I think I will have to SORN it and transfer my insurance to my BMW. This house malarky is expensive enough...

For a while now I've had a miss on startup that clears within 10-20 seconds, which new leads hasn't sorted, so I figured/hoped a new set of plugs would sort that when I got around to it, or at worst one of my britpart coil packs was failing. This might still be an entirely unrelated problem, however..

Over the last couple of days I've had a missfire that rapidly got worse, to the point cyl 6 died entirely on my way home from work. Same on LPG and petrol. Plug lead connected fine at both ends, and it was only cyl 6 that was dead and not also a cylinder on the other bank, suggesting investigating the plug end first was the way to go. Pulled the plug... and it looked like this:

These plugs were new in 18 months ago, maybe slightly longer... so while they could do with changing, this looks concerning. I pulled another out and it looked like your typical wear - nothing unusual. #6 though looks like it has been rusting away...

I'm not losing coolant (for once), no steam other than when its humid out and the box has the usual condensation in it. Even if it were coolant, it wouldn't rust, and it should look clean rather than stained I would have thought. So lets say it was straight water in the cooling system, the plug would have to be sat in it to do that.

To further confuse things, when I did a compression test last year, this cylinder had higher compression than the rest - considerably higher if I recall. I didn't have my tester with me last night, just one that was older than me, which read about 150-180 psi but the non-return valve was leaking so didn't see a proper figure. I was mostly interested to see if I'd lost compression entirely at the time on that cylinder.

So I'm not sure what to make of this... conveniently had a spare plug from a Honda engined generator that fit, and its now running on all 8 again as if nothing had happened. Too early to tell on the startup miss, there seems to be little consistency as to when it does that, apart from cold startup.

The clips aren't necessary really - mine had been forced the wrong way I guess when the LPG filler was done. I guess it stops the bumper making a swift departure if the bolts fall out...

From what I've read this sounds like a nasty setup... presumably has a special fitting at either end, so you couldn't just find some compatible pipe ends that go onto the evaporator and make up custom pipes to replace the lot.

There is just those two bolts holding the bumper on, then it drops slightly and slides out of a mounting bracket at either side behind each wheel. There is a clip that needs folding up/down on each of those too.

It might just be the metal frame of the bumper that has rusted away - on our red one the entire thing was disintegrating. Thump the bumper and it would rain and hail rust on the ground. Thankfully the chassis-side mountings were fine.

If it sounds like a siren rather than a horn, then its probably a battery backed sounder. Sounds feasible it could be trying to charge batteries that are crapping out.