Nope, nothing on the page does anything at all.
It shows me a page with buttons as I expect the software page should appear but the buttons are not interactive.
There is nothing on a P38 that can't be mended in one way or another but you do need some instruction and there's a lot of it about. You may have heard of RAVE which was the Land Rover workshop manual but it hasn't been updated since 2005. But, as the P38 ceased production in 2002, who cares.
RAVE can be downloaded from http://rangerovers.pub/static/rave.zip but it might take a while as it's a pretty big file. To run it, simply double click the rave-lr.pdf file and you're in.
There's also an online version that can be found at http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/p38/range_rover_workshop_manual_volume_1/
The full parts manual can be found at http://new.lrcat.com/
and if you can't figure out exactly what the problem is, there's quite a few decent guides to the common faults that can be found at http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.html although it is a little out of date now with some of the advice as it hasn't been updated since the original site was taken over by a Canadian company who allow it to be run by the main reason this forum has been created.
There's also a few archived articles of use that SpiggyTopes (Peter) has uploaded to Google drive that can be found here https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4azhgT5UI-QWW9TQlhUWE9FWUE&usp=sharing
Thanks very much for these links especially to Spiggy Topes, I have now got those docs in my G drive!
I have, as suggested, downloaded RAVE but navigating is difficult as when I "simply double click the rave-lr.pdf file and you're in", I'm not in. It doesn't launch and although I can navigate the files manually, it's not easy. Any suggestions on how it I can resolve this will be gratefully received
Well, as I couldn't locate the knocks, I decided to leave it a while and let it get worse.
Now clunks on change of direction. In fact now the clunk on acceleration and braking has gone but I can feel the clunks on direction change through the floor.
I did indeed break down near you and you were away at the time I believe.
I'm convinced its suspension related. I may run it up to We-R-P38s in Pontypool and see if they can diagnose it.
Got underneath today and couldn't see anything obvious except one of the CV joint boots was leaking - The jubilee clip had rotted through and it had just started to let a bit of grease out so remedied that but couldn't see anything that would cause the clonking.
Hey GilbertD, Thanks for response. I checked all the UJ's when I had the incident near Peterborough and had to change the rear propshaft.
Th clunk happens when I apply throttle and when I brake. Also on sharp cornering. Basically when the body weight shifts. I'm suspecting radius arm bushes or similar.
Today I found an easy fix on my "rescued from the dead" P38 by getting the cruise control working by changing the vacuum hose. Was delighted at an actual easy fix.
I'd noticed a small clunk on extreme lock a few times but today the car is clunking on both acceleration and braking. I can feel it through the floor of the car.
Ideas on the most likely culprit(s) before I gird my loins to go squirming underneath (it doesn't get any easier as you get older does it?)
Funnily enough I fixed mine today by changing the hose and was surprised it works (car was laid up for 3 years prior to me acquiring it 9 months ago.
Now the cruise control works, the bloody thing is clonking under braking and acceleration - will search and start a separate thread on that.
If it breaks in the middle can I send you the bill for a replacement? 😀
What do I win if I can
a) Find all 4 clips and
b) refit all the clips?
Thanks Richard. So basically pull down in the middle to flex it enough to pop out one side?
How likely is it to break using the bowing in the middle method?
To be frank I am a little wary of Nanocom as the friend who talked me into taking on this P38 has one. It's away back to Cyrus for a second time to be repaired as the display has failed a second time.
He only sent it a week or so ago and last time it was over a month before it came back..
I don't think I've tried putting power to the motor while it was connected to the HEVAC unit. Certainly not to both HEVAC units.
If I can connect a Nanocom, will it tell me if the output from the HEVAC is working?
All good advice and much appreciated. Thank you all.
Yes, I need to drop the sunroof to do the sunblind. Not looking forward to it if I'm honest but waiting until my trusted assistant returns this weekend.
I couldn't wake the motor so ordered a s/h replacement from a breaker and wired it up.
Still no response from the motor so i put the meter on it.
When the other motors are turned on by operating the controls, I am seeing around 5v fed to the brown wire on each of them but not on the one that isn't working.
I had a spare HeVAc head unit (display doesn't work) so swapped it over and the situation remains the same so i can only surmise that the BECM isn't sending the command to move the motor.
Unplugging the HeVAC control units doesn't clear the book and "!" from the display so it could be that it needs clearing via Nanocom or similar.
Wish i had access to one - might have saved me a lot of work
I was just a bit concerned that the old and new glue might react badly and cause it to fail to stick.
Not entirely sure if this should go under the oily bits of the forum but couldn't see where else to put it.
I've removed the headlining from my car and taken off the covering material then brushed off the old foam. The surface has remained tacky.
Do I need to neutralise the old glue or can I spray new glue over it.
If I need to remove the old glue, what should I use?
All advice gratefully received.
You may be able to wake the motor up with a squirt of contact cleaner through the holes so it gets on the brushes, spin it a few times then hit it with 9V and run it both ways.
Yes, pics do have to be hosted elsewhere (such as imgur) and linked to. There's a sticky at the top of the forum with instructions how to do it.
i'll give it a go tomorrow.
GilbertD, thank you for your advice thus far. I've managed to get the offending blend motor out:
I can't see how to upload pics on here unless hosted elsewhere.
I've split the motor housing casing and tried applying 9v directly to the motor but there's no response so I guess the motor id FUBAR.
I did put the meter on the motor contacts and it is indeed being supplied with 5 volts.
The 9 volt battery across the brown and black wires will not drive any of the motors. Does the grey wire need to be energised as well?
I'm at the stage now of throwing things at it.
Looks like I'll have to disconnect battery and remove the instrument panel and see if I can get the duct out.
I'm usually quite patient but this is putting me to the test