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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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If it breaks in the middle can I send you the bill for a replacement? 😀

What do I win if I can
a) Find all 4 clips and
b) refit all the clips?

Thanks Richard. So basically pull down in the middle to flex it enough to pop out one side?

How likely is it to break using the bowing in the middle method?

To be frank I am a little wary of Nanocom as the friend who talked me into taking on this P38 has one. It's away back to Cyrus for a second time to be repaired as the display has failed a second time.

He only sent it a week or so ago and last time it was over a month before it came back..

I don't think I've tried putting power to the motor while it was connected to the HEVAC unit. Certainly not to both HEVAC units.

If I can connect a Nanocom, will it tell me if the output from the HEVAC is working?

All good advice and much appreciated. Thank you all.

Yes, I need to drop the sunroof to do the sunblind. Not looking forward to it if I'm honest but waiting until my trusted assistant returns this weekend.

I couldn't wake the motor so ordered a s/h replacement from a breaker and wired it up.

Still no response from the motor so i put the meter on it.

When the other motors are turned on by operating the controls, I am seeing around 5v fed to the brown wire on each of them but not on the one that isn't working.

I had a spare HeVAc head unit (display doesn't work) so swapped it over and the situation remains the same so i can only surmise that the BECM isn't sending the command to move the motor.

Unplugging the HeVAC control units doesn't clear the book and "!" from the display so it could be that it needs clearing via Nanocom or similar.

Wish i had access to one - might have saved me a lot of work

Any thoughts?

Thanks GilberD.

I was just a bit concerned that the old and new glue might react badly and cause it to fail to stick.

Not entirely sure if this should go under the oily bits of the forum but couldn't see where else to put it.

I've removed the headlining from my car and taken off the covering material then brushed off the old foam. The surface has remained tacky.

Do I need to neutralise the old glue or can I spray new glue over it.

If I need to remove the old glue, what should I use?

All advice gratefully received.

Gilbertd wrote:

You may be able to wake the motor up with a squirt of contact cleaner through the holes so it gets on the brushes, spin it a few times then hit it with 9V and run it both ways.

Yes, pics do have to be hosted elsewhere (such as imgur) and linked to. There's a sticky at the top of the forum with instructions how to do it.

i'll give it a go tomorrow.

Thank you

GilbertD, thank you for your advice thus far. I've managed to get the offending blend motor out:

I can't see how to upload pics on here unless hosted elsewhere.

I've split the motor housing casing and tried applying 9v directly to the motor but there's no response so I guess the motor id FUBAR.

I did put the meter on the motor contacts and it is indeed being supplied with 5 volts.

The 9 volt battery across the brown and black wires will not drive any of the motors. Does the grey wire need to be energised as well?

I'm at the stage now of throwing things at it.

Looks like I'll have to disconnect battery and remove the instrument panel and see if I can get the duct out.

I'm usually quite patient but this is putting me to the test

Thanks GilbertD.

The 9 volt battery wasn't chucking out 9 volts so I'll have another go today.

I watched a video on removing the dash last night and I think I'll be taking the shortcut of cutting the ducting to get it out if ultimately I need access.

I managed to find time today to remove the HeVAC display and had a go at connecting a 9V Battery between the black and brown wires from each motor as suggested but wasn't able to get any reaction.

i'm a bit bemused because before I tried the above I had sat in the car and operated the direction controls and on each press of a button I could hear the flaps operating, the same for the recirc button.

When the heat was working it appeared to be coming from the passenger side, however, when i operate the temp buttons it is the driver's side flaps I can hear moving but not the passenger side.

I removed the glovebox as I need to repair the restraint anyway but that doesn't appear to give me any access so i removed the knee panel from the driver's side and that doesn't seem to help either (ducting in the way. So, where do I go from here.

My HeVAC dipaly has the book symbol and "!" on it. Is there any way to reset that without Nanocom or similar?

Gilbertd wrote:

You can exercise them without pulling the dash out (in fact you can change them without pulling the whole dash out). Take off the centre console side panels and undo the 4 screws holding the HEVAC in. Tilt it out at the top and it will then come out. Unplug the black connector to the blend motors (on the left, towards the back). If you look at that one you will see 3 sets of wires the same colour. The Black and Brown wires go to the actual motors, Left blend motor on pins 11 and 12, right blend motor on pins 9 and 10 and distribution motor on pins 6 and 16. If you use a 9V battery and connect it to those pairs of pins, you can power the motor from one end of the travel to the other. Connected one way round moves it one way, the other way round moves it the other way. You'll be able to hear them whirring away as they move and doing it a few times may be all you need to wake up the lazy ones.

A Thor will bring on the SRS light if it detects a fault but it will go out once the fault is cleared unlike the earlier GEMS which needs it to be reset with diagnostics even after the fault is cleared. Favourite fault with the Thor is the connector under one of the seats which gets disturbed whenever the seat is moved. Unplug, squirt with contact cleaner and plug back in is all that is normally needed.

Great info. Thank you. If this rain ever stops I'll give that a go.

Thanks GilbertD. I'm pretty sure it's all working except the drivers side blend motor although the passenger side stopped sending out hot air on request when we did our first long trip (beginning of December when we had temps down to -8) it's now decided to work again.
As the car had been essentially abandoned for 3 years I thought if I can get the blend motor moving it might respond to some exercise without having to pull the whole dash apart.

I also wanted to see if there are any codes stored as i have an intermittent SRS light on the dash.

...that could help me by plugging it into my Thor 4.0 P38 that I rescued earlier this year please?

A friend has a Nanocom but it's gone faulty.

I've got it through a MoT and running quite well but would like to put it on a Nanocom to look at, amongst other things, what the issue is with the heater. I'm guessing blend motors but I understand they can be manipulated on the Nanocom to see if they are working before i dive in

Thanks Gilbert. Don';t know how I missed that one on Fleabay.

I've ordered a pump repair kit and block seals and will work my way through the system.

Hi everyone, I just acquired a 2001 4.0 HSE P38 as a non runner.

It had stood for 2 years or so but I have managed to get it to start.

It was parked up as the EAS had stopped working and the owner intended to put it onto springs but had lost interest in it.

I'd like to get the EAS up and running and using the very helpful Beginners guide to EAS have established that the thermal cutout in the pump has failed.

Can anyone advise where I can get hold of one please?

I can buy them from Mouser online at about £4 each but it's £12 P&P on top. If I have to but it from them does anyone else want one as a spare aso w ecan split the shipping costs?