Thanks GilbertD.

The 9 volt battery wasn't chucking out 9 volts so I'll have another go today.

I watched a video on removing the dash last night and I think I'll be taking the shortcut of cutting the ducting to get it out if ultimately I need access.

I managed to find time today to remove the HeVAC display and had a go at connecting a 9V Battery between the black and brown wires from each motor as suggested but wasn't able to get any reaction.

i'm a bit bemused because before I tried the above I had sat in the car and operated the direction controls and on each press of a button I could hear the flaps operating, the same for the recirc button.

When the heat was working it appeared to be coming from the passenger side, however, when i operate the temp buttons it is the driver's side flaps I can hear moving but not the passenger side.

I removed the glovebox as I need to repair the restraint anyway but that doesn't appear to give me any access so i removed the knee panel from the driver's side and that doesn't seem to help either (ducting in the way. So, where do I go from here.

My HeVAC dipaly has the book symbol and "!" on it. Is there any way to reset that without Nanocom or similar?

Gilbertd wrote:

You can exercise them without pulling the dash out (in fact you can change them without pulling the whole dash out). Take off the centre console side panels and undo the 4 screws holding the HEVAC in. Tilt it out at the top and it will then come out. Unplug the black connector to the blend motors (on the left, towards the back). If you look at that one you will see 3 sets of wires the same colour. The Black and Brown wires go to the actual motors, Left blend motor on pins 11 and 12, right blend motor on pins 9 and 10 and distribution motor on pins 6 and 16. If you use a 9V battery and connect it to those pairs of pins, you can power the motor from one end of the travel to the other. Connected one way round moves it one way, the other way round moves it the other way. You'll be able to hear them whirring away as they move and doing it a few times may be all you need to wake up the lazy ones.

A Thor will bring on the SRS light if it detects a fault but it will go out once the fault is cleared unlike the earlier GEMS which needs it to be reset with diagnostics even after the fault is cleared. Favourite fault with the Thor is the connector under one of the seats which gets disturbed whenever the seat is moved. Unplug, squirt with contact cleaner and plug back in is all that is normally needed.

Great info. Thank you. If this rain ever stops I'll give that a go.

Thanks GilbertD. I'm pretty sure it's all working except the drivers side blend motor although the passenger side stopped sending out hot air on request when we did our first long trip (beginning of December when we had temps down to -8) it's now decided to work again.
As the car had been essentially abandoned for 3 years I thought if I can get the blend motor moving it might respond to some exercise without having to pull the whole dash apart.

I also wanted to see if there are any codes stored as i have an intermittent SRS light on the dash.

...that could help me by plugging it into my Thor 4.0 P38 that I rescued earlier this year please?

A friend has a Nanocom but it's gone faulty.

I've got it through a MoT and running quite well but would like to put it on a Nanocom to look at, amongst other things, what the issue is with the heater. I'm guessing blend motors but I understand they can be manipulated on the Nanocom to see if they are working before i dive in

Thanks Gilbert. Don';t know how I missed that one on Fleabay.

I've ordered a pump repair kit and block seals and will work my way through the system.

Hi everyone, I just acquired a 2001 4.0 HSE P38 as a non runner.

It had stood for 2 years or so but I have managed to get it to start.

It was parked up as the EAS had stopped working and the owner intended to put it onto springs but had lost interest in it.

I'd like to get the EAS up and running and using the very helpful Beginners guide to EAS have established that the thermal cutout in the pump has failed.

Can anyone advise where I can get hold of one please?

I can buy them from Mouser online at about £4 each but it's £12 P&P on top. If I have to but it from them does anyone else want one as a spare aso w ecan split the shipping costs?