So, old p38 4..6 died with head gasket problems again after 400 miles. I refuse to pay out to have them changed again, So it can be some one else's problem, quite likely the scrap yards.
So left with the thorny problem of what car to buy that can take my electric wheelchair? looked at all the newer stuff, and the mobility cars, if you want to pay them 3 grand down every three years, bugger that! so the only car that fits the bill, is the good old ranger. spent a month trying to get a good 322, failed, so bought a vogue4.6 on a 2000 plate and with a thor engine.
The difference between the thor and the gems in initial pick up is quite remarkable.
with the gems, you have to pick your moment, and floor it, with the thor, you have to regulate how much welly you give, in case you end up entering the car in front for a cup of tea!
Not sure what makes a vogue better than the rest though? Sure its got piping round the chairs, and the plastic wood on the console, but is there more to it?
It doesn't even come with a multi cd player, so having to strip the one out of the 'dead un' and install it into the 'live un'. Probably along with the boom box, as the original one in the car is shite to say the least!
Are there any other changes that make a 'vogue' worth the different tab?

Hi all, looking at buying an old l322 {to replace my now dead p38} of some sort. the ones i see rarely have gas fitted to them, and after the amount of money the system on my p38 has saved me, looking to fit out again. Only thing is, my tool kit has meccano stamped on it, so self fitting not an option. does any one know who could fit a gas system to the car, and if possible a roundabout figure of costs?
I am not interested in the type, mainly cos i have no idea what they mean, just as long as it works.
Any answers gratefully received.
Ade.

evening, just managed to log in after fighting the bloody captur picture nightmare!
says i need a plug in on one of the pages. any idea what the plug in is and where i can get it from pretty please ?

Having just come across the 'joys' of owning a p38, i am somewhat confused.
have asked the forum why the demonbeastchild i own, would go for fine for ages then hit the red, enough to make some lovely tea, whilst steam cleaning the engine bay, then drop like a stone, then hit the red again. Had the head gaskets replaced as it was pointing towards that as a problem, and it was. then it went nicely for a while, try three weeks, before going back to its global warming routine. rr.net reckons that a liner has slipped and the engine is junked, or that the computer is alternating the water flow. the last one through me a bit, do rr's have computed water pumps at all? i know just about every other damn thing is, but a water pump?
realised i'd got a different site than this after a few pm's.
ended up on there as i got the url wrong and google happily transported me across the pond and beyond. interesting chaps to be sure, got some good advice from them, which i guarantee i will never ever action. is the aircon acctually linkewd to the cooling system? And i like the EAS, which is why i bought a rr, the suspension is brilliant for my rather crumbling spine. fail to see the need to replace with expensive springs, and have a new eca? fitted, which can be supplied to me at a bargian price along with the springs. i've had LR's for years before buying a J... but just didn't like it too much.
do these cars need complete rebuilding every other weekend, or could i expect some days when it will actually work? have to say the series 123 were never such a problem child, all you needed to do on them was weld the chassis every ten days.
So... over heating, as in big time overheating, would it be an airlock, thermostat or knackered engine, any help gratefully recieved.

have a 1993 4.6, which is nice to drive, expensive but nice. i have an 'Impco' gas system fitted, which always worked well, until a head gasket change, now it won't idle, or run very well. Had new plugs with the new heads, just wondering if that may be the problem, and if changing leads and regapping the plugs might work?
found this from a gas fuel pseudo expert. Sound right or not?

Items such as Distributor caps, HT Leads, Rotor arms etc. can appear to be serviceable but cause problems when on LPG. This is because LPG / Air mixture is much harder to ignite than Petrol / Air. The voltages generated are up to twice as high (expect to see spark voltages of 10-15Kv's on petrol, whereas on LPG they can reach 25 -30Kv's). Higher spark voltages are likely to break down the insulation of any component, causing 'tracking', misfiring etc. which results in backfiring. Thus, faults that are NOT evident when on Petrol can show up on LPG. Although all engines can suffer misfiring caused by old parts, in 6, 8, 10 and 12 cylinder ignition systems the spacing between the 'poles' on the distributor cap can be quite small. It is easier for a spark to 'jump' to the wrong pole as a result. It's crucial this and other components don't cause this problem when running on LPG. As a result, the voltages within HT components can become far higher when running on gas as opposed on petrol, typically 12-15 Kv's on petrol and up to 30 - 35 Kv's on gas. Meaning the insulation of HT components is at least twice as likely to break down running on gas, often resulting in tracking, misfiring etc. The point where we hear the statement 'It doesn't misfire/backfire/ stall on petrol'. In the light of the above, it wouldn't. To help reduce the problems when running on gas, set plug gaps to .030" (.75mm). See what a reduction in plug gaps does on a 'scope. Too wide = High voltage. Reduce gap = Reduced voltage. Reducing the plug gap won't dramatically remedy backfiring, but it will certainly reduce the risk. Another factor often missed is that once HT leads etc, have been exposed to higher than normal voltages their insulations are damaged to the extent that a later reduction in plug gaps cannot stop the leakage. Misfiring and the ensuing backfire will still occur. You'd expect something to be damaged by this! Such damage makes just the place where damp likes to dwell, making things even worse. If that is the case, only replacement of the damaged components will cure the problem if the backfiring is really due to ignition faults in the first instance.